Grooved/drilled brake discs - worth it?
Username
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 35 of 52
    1. #1
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186

      Grooved/drilled brake discs - worth it?

      Hi all
      Need your advice on my planned purchase. I have 320mm front discs in pretty good condition (evenly worn, probably OEM but cant be sure), and I am getting close to the point where I need to replace pads. I can get set of decent ceramic pads like Brembo or ATE and just keep using on my discs, or I can spend some more cash and get a set of grooved/drilled new discs from reputable manufacturer (I am restricted to UK/Irish market as with such heavy items it make no sense to buy them on your side of the pond).
      I already have braided hoses and ATE2000 brake fluid. Really happy with brakes now but still think there is space for improvement.
      Is set of such discs worth extra 200-250eur over existing and working but standard rotors?
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. #2
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Slotted, but not drilled, seem to be best if not blanks.
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    4. #3
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Apple Valley MN
      Posts
      3,761
      If you are asking "will I get improved performance or feel" the answer is no. You might feel the difference after several laps on track day but certainly not on the street.
      PS. Do not reuse your worn rotors. Start with a fresh set. It will take much longer than you think to bed new pads, especially the performance ones you have in mind on a set of used rotors.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    5. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    6. #4
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      If you are asking "will I get improved performance or feel" the answer is no. You might feel the difference after several laps on track day but certainly not on the street.
      PS. Do not reuse your worn rotors. Start with a fresh set. It will take much longer than you think to bed new pads, especially the performance ones you have in mind on a set of used rotors.
      To be honest I would love to have full fresh set - just trying to justify in my head spending extra cash for something that is not really that bad. Rotors are really evenly worn, still plenty of 'life' in them left and there is technically no NEED to change them.
      So grooves/holes only prevents fading and improve ventilation, doesnt really improve braking? Would they help preventing disc warping? (I have feeling that my current ones have a bit of warp from heat, as I have pretty agressive style of driving...)
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    7. #5
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colorado
      Posts
      804
      Nah not worth it IMO. I had drilled/slotted on all 4 corners and went back to plain when I did the 320mm front upgrade. Slotted rotors looked cool but they were noisier.

      I'd spend the extra money on pads personally. I went with Porterfield R4-S- a little pricey but excellent bite, low dust, and they claim good durability.
      2007 S40 T5 AWD

    8. #6
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Quote Originally Posted by T5CO View Post
      Nah not worth it IMO. I had drilled/slotted on all 4 corners and went back to plain when I did the 320mm front upgrade. Slotted rotors looked cool but they were noisier.

      I'd spend the extra money on pads personally. I went with Porterfield R4-S- a little pricey but excellent bite, low dust, and they claim good durability.
      Thanks, interesting opinion.
      Those brake pads are not available in EU, never came across the brand either. I think I am limited to ATE/EBC/Brembo/Black Diamond brands. Still good choice anyway.
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    9. #7
      Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Location
      Northern CA
      Posts
      2,263
      Agreed, the drilled and slotted rotors are good for preventing fad in race day situations otherwise just noisy, as in, clickclickclickclick-constantly. Also be careful about too performance oriented pads, they don't stop well until warm aka a long time


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    10. #8
      Junior Member thefisch33's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Aurora, CO
      Posts
      942
      R1Concepts for your rotors. Im a repeat customer. Excellent warranty and price.


      '10 s40 m66 awd
      '12 c30
      2010 s40 T5 AWD M66 D/S Rotors, EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Pads-custom Cat-back, muffler delete

    11. #9
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      thefisch33 - another brand not available in UK/IRE, thanks for the tip but import taxes+cost of shipment doesnt make sense in this case.

      Thanks all for your feedback - it seem to me that I can spend this 250eur better (like half payment for Stage1 :P) than replacing rotors just for cosmetic reasons.
      Will definetely get good pads (street-good, I am aware of those racing ones that works great but only after heated up track use, thanks for the warning though!) and see how it goes.
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    12. #10
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      thefisch33 - another brand not available in UK/IRE, thanks for the tip but import taxes+cost of shipment doesnt make sense in this case.

      Thanks all for your feedback - it seem to me that I can spend this 250eur better (like half payment for Stage1 :P) than replacing rotors just for cosmetic reasons.
      Will definetely get good pads (street-good, I am aware of those racing ones that works great but only after heated up track use, thanks for the warning though!) and see how it goes.
      Best is to get OEM or blank Centric rotors. All these third party drillers and slotters use generic blanks for the most part and then mark up the price heavily for the added work. In the end they don't add anything special for daily driving.

      Edit: Oh, and pads. Good pads!
      Last edited by GRat9717; 04-21-2017 at 07:18 AM.
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    13. #11
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Quote Originally Posted by GRat9717 View Post
      Best is to get OEM or blank Centric rotors. All these third party drillers and slotters use generic blanks for the most part and then mark up the price heavily for the added work. In the end they don't add anything special for daily driving.
      OK I hear you. Most respectable manufacturers of aftermarket rotors in Europe (like Black Diamond) have all possible combinations as options (blank, grooved, drilled, g+d) but the default 'blank' is a really good quality and OEM worth or better replacement.
      I would love to know actually if my current ones are OEM ones or some aftermarket cr*p (and I tell you i DO know what cheap rotor is as I managed to warp few on my old S40 within month!!!!). Anybody know if there is a way to check them without removing? Do OEM ones have any markings or distinctive features?
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    14. #12
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      OK I hear you. Most respectable manufacturers of aftermarket rotors in Europe (like Black Diamond) have all possible combinations as options (blank, grooved, drilled, g+d) but the default 'blank' is a really good quality and OEM worth or better replacement.
      I would love to know actually if my current ones are OEM ones or some aftermarket cr*p (and I tell you i DO know what cheap rotor is as I managed to warp few on my old S40 within month!!!!). Anybody know if there is a way to check them without removing? Do OEM ones have any markings or distinctive features?
      I learned that it actually takes a lot to get a rotor to warp and most of the time it's just runout. There have been so many cases where rotors/pads are replaced due to vibrations in the steering wheel and the issue comes back shortly after. Runout runout runout! Clean hubs are hugely underrated/ignored.

      OEM rotors will be black around the bell area but will have a silver face (like the rest of the rotor) on the mating surface between the wheel and rotor.
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    15. #13
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Quote Originally Posted by GRat9717 View Post
      I learned that it actually takes a lot to get a rotor to warp and most of the time it's just runout. There have been so many cases where rotors/pads are replaced due to vibrations in the steering wheel and the issue comes back shortly after. Runout runout runout! Clean hubs are hugely underrated/ignored.

      OEM rotors will be black around the bell area but will have a silver face (like the rest of the rotor) on the mating surface between the wheel and rotor.
      Runout? please elaborate, havent come across this term before (also non-english native so maybe I am losing something ).
      The ones I warped before were definitely faulty - got them tested and fully reimbursed by shop. In fairness they were really cheap and obviously not good enough for my way of driving...

      I dont see any black parts on my current rotors - maybe I am not looking right? Does this picture give any clues out?

      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    16. #14
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Apple Valley MN
      Posts
      3,761
      Hard to be positive but those do look OEM. Worn more than you think, replace them. You'll thank yourself later.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    17. #15
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      Runout? please elaborate, havent come across this term before (also non-english native so maybe I am losing something ).
      The ones I warped before were definitely faulty - got them tested and fully reimbursed by shop. In fairness they were really cheap and obviously not good enough for my way of driving...

      I dont see any black parts on my current rotors - maybe I am not looking right? Does this picture give any clues out?

      Can't be too sure, but there's always chance it's not OEM.

      So runout is a condition where there is an uneven mating surface between the hub and rotor. This is due to rust and other factors. Very minuscule variances in the surface can cause vibration to occur in the steering wheel and is usually mistaken for warped rotors. Before I learned about the concept I probably threw away many good rotors. Here is a video of a guy checking for runout at the hub - https://youtu.be/P0ayZUDqixE?t=2m16s Over time if not fixed those problems transfer to the rotor and then they either need to be replaced or machined (turned).
      Last edited by GRat9717; 04-21-2017 at 10:43 AM.
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    18. #16
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Interesting, thanks. I have read its always necessary to clean hub surface before putting new rotors in, probable explanantion why.
      Anyone recognising the discs on the picture and confident with information - please chip in, would really be happy to know what they are.

      /OT/(saying this as in this country lots of people doesnt really pay much attention to parts like tyres or brakes, and very often it ends up with "put whatever you have on stock". While I can live with sub-standard 'blueprint' brand air filter, was never happy with unknown chinese tyres or "half price" brake components of brands I have never heard before....)/OT off/ :]
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    19. #17
      Where's all this clicky noise coming from? I have them on both my wife's subaru outback and my s40 and I have no clicky noise or anything else for that matter. The only difference between them and the stock setup is that under like 90% braking load (just under the ABS turn on point) I get a rumble and you can tell the slots/drills are doing their job, but otherwise they're completely quiet.

      But considering the rockauto catalogue has the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors individually for the same price as quality flat face standard rotors, it was a mute point, free performance gain in emergency situations was worth it. Not sure if Amazon ships to your neck of the woods, but I got a complete set of PowerStop Z23 all 4 new rotors/pads from Amazon Warehouse for $160, so check around and you might find a deal.

      Holy crap there's a complete package (4 rotors + pads for 320mm fronts) for $92 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=all

      Mine said used - very good as well but it was all brand new and was just repackaged (pads were still in original shrink wrap placed in a new box and rotors were in their own new boxes as well). Hell with shipping to the rainy island you can't get much cheaper than that man...
      Last edited by avenger09123; 04-21-2017 at 11:27 AM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    20. #18
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Where's all this clicky noise coming from? I have them on both my wife's subaru outback and my s40 and I have no clicky noise or anything else for that matter. The only difference between them and the stock setup is that under like 90% braking load (just under the ABS turn on point) I get a rumble and you can tell the slots/drills are doing their job, but otherwise they're completely quiet.

      But considering the rockauto catalogue has the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors individually for the same price as quality flat face standard rotors, it was a mute point, free performance gain in emergency situations was worth it. Not sure if Amazon ships to your neck of the woods, but I got a complete set of PowerStop Z23 all 4 new rotors/pads from Amazon Warehouse for $160, so check around and you might find a deal.

      Holy crap there's a complete package (4 rotors + pads for 320mm fronts) for $92 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=all

      Mine said used - very good as well but it was all brand new and was just repackaged (pads were still in original shrink wrap placed in a new box and rotors were in their own new boxes as well). Hell with shipping to the rainy island you can't get much cheaper than that man...
      That's cheap!!
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    21. #19
      Don't go too cheap, good discs can be relative affordable as well.

      I was in about the same situation for our 2.4i. Ate ceramic and slotted/drilled rotors are not advised, from what i've read. (and from my best of understanding Ate also has a warning on their website) I ended up buying a set of brembo coated rotors (non brake-surface is coated in an attempt to fight rust, just like the original volvo discs) and a set of TRW cotec/dtec pads.

    22. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by serum View Post
      Don't go too cheap, good discs can be relative affordable as well.

      I was in about the same situation for our 2.4i. Ate ceramic and slotted/drilled rotors are not advised, from what i've read. (and from my best of understanding Ate also has a warning on their website) I ended up buying a set of brembo coated rotors (non brake-surface is coated in an attempt to fight rust, just like the original volvo discs) and a set of TRW cotec/dtec pads.
      I think there may be a misunderstanding here since the link I provided was for the PowerStop Z23 One Click kit for $92 not generic off brand cheap discs and pads, which is normally a $300 kit when at full price. Like serum said though, do NOT go substandard quality because of price. My car's PO did and I can tell you that in just 2 months of 90MPH-75MPH or 65MPH hard brakings commuting to work in Denver and back my front rotors warped. On the bright side I could wash my clothes for free by putting some laundry soap and some water and bracing the bucket inbetween the front seat and the glovebox and hitting brakes hard on the highway.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    23. #21
      That's a bargain for sure! If you are in the US and in the market for new brakes... Weird they state 'used'

    24. #22
      Junior Member JomamaAK's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Anchorage AK
      Posts
      49
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Where's all this clicky noise coming from? I have them on both my wife's subaru outback and my s40 and I have no clicky noise or anything else for that matter. The only difference between them and the stock setup is that under like 90% braking load (just under the ABS turn on point) I get a rumble and you can tell the slots/drills are doing their job, but otherwise they're completely quiet.

      But considering the rockauto catalogue has the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors individually for the same price as quality flat face standard rotors, it was a mute point, free performance gain in emergency situations was worth it. Not sure if Amazon ships to your neck of the woods, but I got a complete set of PowerStop Z23 all 4 new rotors/pads from Amazon Warehouse for $160, so check around and you might find a deal.

      Holy crap there's a complete package (4 rotors + pads for 320mm fronts) for $92 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=all

      Mine said used - very good as well but it was all brand new and was just repackaged (pads were still in original shrink wrap placed in a new box and rotors were in their own new boxes as well). Hell with shipping to the rainy island you can't get much cheaper than that man...
      Great price. I went to power stop website, and was double checking the vehicle compatibility, interestingly their website shows that all T5 Turbo models are 320mm.. I'm under the impression this is not correct? I'm pretty sure mine are the 300mm based on the other thread here on Swedespeed that showed a comparison between the 300 and 320mm... Just fyi, I really wanted to pick that up..

    25. #23
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Quote Originally Posted by JomamaAK View Post
      Great price. I went to power stop website, and was double checking the vehicle compatibility, interestingly their website shows that all T5 Turbo models are 320mm.. I'm under the impression this is not correct? I'm pretty sure mine are the 300mm based on the other thread here on Swedespeed that showed a comparison between the 300 and 320mm... Just fyi, I really wanted to pick that up..
      P1s have 3 different sizes in the front: 278, 300, and 320.
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    26. #24
      Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Location
      Northern CA
      Posts
      2,263
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Where's all this clicky noise coming from? I have them on both my wife's subaru outback and my s40 and I have no clicky noise or anything else for that matter. The only difference between them and the stock setup is that under like 90% braking load (just under the ABS turn on point) I get a rumble and you can tell the slots/drills are doing their job, but otherwise they're completely quiet.

      But considering the rockauto catalogue has the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors individually for the same price as quality flat face standard rotors, it was a mute point, free performance gain in emergency situations was worth it. Not sure if Amazon ships to your neck of the woods, but I got a complete set of PowerStop Z23 all 4 new rotors/pads from Amazon Warehouse for $160, so check around and you might find a deal.

      Holy crap there's a complete package (4 rotors + pads for 320mm fronts) for $92 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=all

      Mine said used - very good as well but it was all brand new and was just repackaged (pads were still in original shrink wrap placed in a new box and rotors were in their own new boxes as well). Hell with shipping to the rainy island you can't get much cheaper than that man...
      I also have the z23s and you can hear slight but constant clicking when driving next to a building with the windows down while at speed -it's just the pad slightly rubbing on the holes, This is my 2nd set of power stops, both sets made the noise. Btw, the z17 pads are far superior in everyday driving than the z23s which kinda suck until warm


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    27. #25
      Quote Originally Posted by GRat9717 View Post
      P1s have 3 different sizes in the front: 278, 300, and 320.
      OOOOR:
      300mm brake kit is about $295 from Powerstop.
      300mm brake kit piecemeal assembled from RockAuto - $250-$270 depending on parts and quality.

      320mm Z23 kit on amazon - $92.00
      320mm front calipers+brackets from RockAuto- $60x2
      Total Cost - $212+Shipping from RockAuto.

      Not gonna tell ya how to spend your money, but wouldn't you like to get more and spend less...
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    28. #26
      Junior Member JomamaAK's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Anchorage AK
      Posts
      49
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      OOOOR:
      300mm brake kit is about $295 from Powerstop.
      300mm brake kit piecemeal assembled from RockAuto - $250-$270 depending on parts and quality.

      320mm Z23 kit on amazon - $92.00
      320mm front calipers+brackets from RockAuto- $60x2
      Total Cost - $212+Shipping from RockAuto.

      Not gonna tell ya how to spend your money, but wouldn't you like to get more and spend less...
      Good info! Quick follow up ?, does wheel size (16" vs. 17") affect the ability to fit the 320mm front?

    29. #27
      I have OEM Clava 16's on mine with 320's so no issue on there.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    30. #28
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colorado
      Posts
      804
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      OOOOR:
      300mm brake kit is about $295 from Powerstop.
      300mm brake kit piecemeal assembled from RockAuto - $250-$270 depending on parts and quality.

      320mm Z23 kit on amazon - $92.00
      320mm front calipers+brackets from RockAuto- $60x2
      Total Cost - $212+Shipping from RockAuto.

      Not gonna tell ya how to spend your money, but wouldn't you like to get more and spend less...
      I think 320 calipers are more like $90-100 a piece. There's a $40-50 core but I wasn't able to return it since I had 300 brakes. Doesn't really make sense so I asked RockAuto and they said "the system can't process it"
      2007 S40 T5 AWD

    31. #29
      Quote Originally Posted by T5CO View Post
      I think 320 calipers are more like $90-100 a piece. There's a $40-50 core but I wasn't able to return it since I had 300 brakes. Doesn't really make sense so I asked RockAuto and they said "the system can't process it"

      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    32. #30
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Missed the whole 90$ discussion, not available under that link anymore but that was good price, wow. Dont know the brand at all (never heard of it here) but even for a new set of 4, 300$ is very cheap. No sense for me (150$ for shipment) but in general I see prices in US are much more sensible than here....

      on a sidenote - "Origin - China" in description. Hmm....
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    33. #31
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,069
      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      Missed the whole 90$ discussion, not available under that link anymore but that was good price, wow. Dont know the brand at all (never heard of it here) but even for a new set of 4, 300$ is very cheap. No sense for me (150$ for shipment) but in general I see prices in US are much more sensible than here....

      on a sidenote - "Origin - China" in description. Hmm....
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    34. #32
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Hahaha, good one :}

      Just to summarise up the topic. Thanks all again for all info - good knowledge and lots of opinions.
      I have decided to order (and already ordered) set of ATE Ceramic pads (70 eur all in - very good price in here) so thats done. I will either fit them on current rotors, or I will fork out extra 120euro (again - good price in EU) for set of non grooved/non drilled Brembo discs (09A72811). Not sure what High Carbon/UV coat means, but 'Brembo' speaks to me enough.

      on a very side-note to this discussion - is there a tutorial anywhere for self-changing 320mm discs? I was thinking of undertaking it myself (and if I get discs - also maybe paint the calipers) but not sure how awkward it is. Did this on my old S40 and on friend's Toyota, but have weird feeling on T5 everything is more difficulf :/
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    35. #33
      Origin China and Origin UK are the two biggest foundaries that produce brake discs. As far as I am aware of, no foundaries in the USA produce brake discs anymore (Brembo, PowerStop, EBC, etc), they all just buy the blanks and modify them stateside

      For removing:

      Jack up car and remove tire/wheel with 19mm socket
      Then:
      You can pop the plastic caps off the rubber on the backside of the caliper and use a 7mm allen key to remove the slide pins and pop the caliper off. You might want to use a socket version as they're torqued on there pretty good. Be sure to put the caliper somewhere it doesn't stress the brake line (i.e. not hanging free)
      Then:
      Use a (15mm?) socket and remove the two bolts holding the bracket attached to the rear knuckle.
      Then:
      Rotor should pull right off. If they don't get a hammer (the bigger the better) and swing from the bottom/top/sides towards the backside of the disc to hit it outward, then rotate the disc and hit it again, and so on. It took about 25 minutes per disc on my wife's subaru to do get the disc off. The volvo they just pulled off no issue.

      Don't forget to open the brake reservoir cap before compressing the piston back in.
      When you reinstall, use all a little threadlocker, a new brake hardware kit or clean/regrease the old one, and remember the brackets are what like 70ftlbs and the slider pins are like 20ftlbs
      Last edited by avenger09123; 04-24-2017 at 03:23 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    36. #34
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Rainy Island (aka Ireland)
      Posts
      186
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Origin China and Origin UK are the two biggest foundaries that produce brake discs. As far as I am aware of, no foundaries in the USA produce brake discs anymore (Brembo, PowerStop, EBC, etc), they all just buy the blanks and modify them stateside

      For removing:

      Jack up car and remove tire/wheel with 19mm socket
      Then:
      You can pop the plastic caps off the rubber on the backside of the caliper and use a 7mm allen key to remove the slide pins and pop the caliper off. You might want to use a socket version as they're torqued on there pretty good. Be sure to put the caliper somewhere it doesn't stress the brake line (i.e. not hanging free)
      Then:
      Use a (15mm?) socket and remove the two bolts holding the bracket attached to the rear knuckle.
      Then:
      Rotor should pull right off. If they don't get a hammer (the bigger the better) and swing from the bottom/top/sides towards the backside of the disc to hit it outward, then rotate the disc and hit it again, and so on. It took about 25 minutes per disc on my wife's subaru to do get the disc off. The volvo they just pulled off no issue.

      Don't forget to open the brake reservoir cap before compressing the piston back in.
      When you reinstall, use all a little threadlocker, a new brake hardware kit or clean/regrease the old one, and remember the brackets are what like 70ftlbs and the slider pins are like 20ftlbs
      Thanks for that.
      Sounds simple when I read it, thats probably good indication I will fail miserably during the actual job I may just take wheel off first and have a good lookaround in caliper area to understand it better. Was looking for tutorial with pics but didnt find any :/ [EDIT: found this, but it looks like 300mm discs and different calipers.]
      I know about re-greasing the parts, did that on my old car, but what about replacing the pins/bolts? On some cars its advised to get brand new ones when doing caliper job. Not the case in here?
      Last edited by LizardOfBodom; 04-25-2017 at 04:48 AM.
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod

    37. #35
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colorado
      Posts
      804
      No you reuse both pins and bolts.

      There's a guide for the 320mm brakes but I think most of the pics are broken. Anyways, it's fundamentally the same as 300mm. Bolts and pins are in the same location- only difference is how the pads attach (more of a spring fit) and the outer retaining clip.
      2007 S40 T5 AWD

    38. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast