Starting problem on 2006 s40 t5
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    1. #1

      Starting problem on 2006 s40 t5

      I'm having an intermittent problem during start up. Car has about 120k miles. The issue cannot be reproduced at will, it just occasionally happens. There are no common variables that I have been able to identify. Normally, the car starts very quickly.

      Basically, when it doesn't work right, I turn the key/ignition and the starter engages but it abruptly cuts out/stops while the key is still turned. Everything is completely quiet except for electronics. If I immediately turn the ignition again, it will typically turn over longer than usual before eventually starting (maybe 2-3 seconds). Sometimes it is also a rough start with a clunk first coming from the engine bay before ignition. Sometimes it also revs up to 3-4k when it initially fires. Actually, in the video linked below the "cutout" happens 2x - or rather the second time I turn the key, the starter does not turn over at all. This is the one and only time that this has happened. Usually, it just takes a little longer to start than usual on the second attempt.

      I took it to a Volvo dealership this winter. The dealer was unable to recreate the issue and there weren't any error codes they said. The dealer thought I needed to replace the flex plate. I know that it is not a battery issue. But, I'm not convinced it's the flexplate. I don't really trust the dealer but its the only local place to take the car. This dealer Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

      I've had difficulty getting video because it happens irregularly. This is the best I have so far. I'm sorry for the poor quality and audio (car stereo interference). Hopefully I will get a better example soon.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuZTbCPw6WA

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    3. #2
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      My car did that intermittently for 6 months before the starter went (minus the clunk). I would go weeks, almost a month at a time without the issue, then randomly it would do that. Someone chimed in on my post before about batteries doing funny things to these cars though also. The rev might be from excess fuel after multiple start attempts.

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    4. #3
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      Here's a recent discussion on intermittent non-starts:

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ace-Flex-Plate

      I've had that issue for 5-6 months now. Though my symptoms are a bit different- when the non-start occurs, the car doesn't even crank- it immediately dies with a whining sound. After it starts it does so normally- within 1-3 cranks and settles at the appropriate RPM, and doesn't seem overly rough.

      Have you considered fuel pressure as a possible cause? Maybe the FPS...
      Last edited by T5CO; 05-18-2017 at 07:25 PM.
      2007 S40 T5 AWD

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    6. #4
      Member Oceans60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by T5CO View Post
      Here's a recent discussion on intermittent non-starts:

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ace-Flex-Plate

      I've had that issue for 5-6 months now. Though my symptoms are a bit different- when the non-start occurs, the car doesn't even crank- it immediately dies with a whining sound. After it starts it does so normally- within 1-3 cranks and settles at the appropriate RPM, and doesn't seem overly rough.

      Have you considered fuel pressure as a possible cause? Maybe the FPS...
      Fuel pressure would have zero effect of what the OP stated happens. He stated the engine stops cranking after briefly cranking. Sounds like a starter to me. The longer crank after the brief crank could be the plugs got coated in fuel before they could fire and they tend to "flood".
      Because this doesn't happen all the time, it does make it difficult to diagnose. Likely not setting any faults. What I do is use a test light and monitor the starter signal at the starter solenoid. If the test light stays lit up but starter isn't cranking, you have a bad starter/solenoid. If the light goes out while cranking the same time it stops cranking, you have a possible ignition switch issue, possible CEM issue. I would try to wire up either a test light or some kind of noid light to the starter solenoid circuit and hope it acts up.
      2006 S60 T5 Mystic Silver/Off Black Sport, Factory Body Kit, 18" BBS's, Hilton Stage 2.5, 11 Blade, IPD Intercooler, Green Injectors, OBX 3" DP, Elevate 3" Exhaust, IPD Sways, H&R Springs, R Gauges, Burnouts @45mph
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    7. #5
      My personal take:

      Pop your battery out at a real battery store and get it load tested. That's where they put like a 600A pull on it for a few seconds and watch the voltage and recovery of the battery, it's a big square box and that's all it does, it doesn't print out a receipt, it doesn't say it's good or bad, it's got a 2 gauges and a dial and a switch and that's it. My wife's battery tested good for the last YEAR of her complaining about slow crank starts especially when cold before I took it to Interstate Batteries and had a real load test done done it where it quickly showed it's age and shortcomings and need to be replaced.

      Eliminate that as an issue, then clean all the contacts of the battery cable where they attach to the starter. Mine were pretty grimey/coated in corrosion when I got it at 117k. You'll get a firmer start.

      Then I'd pop out the flywheel viewport and check your flywheel for worn teeth. Obviously no engine stops in exactly the same place every time, making the issue completely random, but you might have some worn teeth in there which is why it gets weird and random and there is no pattern. You might need to remove the plugs to make turning the motor over easier.

      That would leave only the starter at that point and the starter test that Oceans60R mentioned. We had some guy on here not too long ago who had it down to a 4 or 5*F span of when his car would start vs when it would not with his starter issue. Replaced the starter and more issues. If you think about it, that is like down to a 0.0001" or less tolerance issue, making these starters quite sensitive.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
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    8. #6
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Oceans60R View Post
      Fuel pressure would have zero effect of what the OP stated happens. He stated the engine stops cranking after briefly cranking. Sounds like a starter to me. The longer crank after the brief crank could be the plugs got coated in fuel before they could fire and they tend to "flood".
      Because this doesn't happen all the time, it does make it difficult to diagnose. Likely not setting any faults. What I do is use a test light and monitor the starter signal at the starter solenoid. If the test light stays lit up but starter isn't cranking, you have a bad starter/solenoid. If the light goes out while cranking the same time it stops cranking, you have a possible ignition switch issue, possible CEM issue. I would try to wire up either a test light or some kind of noid light to the starter solenoid circuit and hope it acts up.
      This ^^^
      It's highly likely you have a starter or ignition switch issue. If you want to throw parts at it do so in that order.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    9. #7
      Thanks for the responses everyone. I replaced the FPS last year and the battery a month ago. I just ordered a new starter which I'm hoping will fix the problem. I'll update in a few weeks once it's been installed.

    10. #8
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      I had the exact same problem for over a year. Tried all kinds of crap and was really getting discouraged. Starter would crank hard and I refused to believe it was the battery. Had plenty of amp's but the voltage was a little low. 12.2v with no load. Went over to the local Volvo dealer and bought a quality battery. Didn't cost much more than the everstart walmart I was using. Car has been starting great every time. Been over a year now. Greg

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by Gregd View Post
      I had the exact same problem for over a year. Tried all kinds of crap and was really getting discouraged. Starter would crank hard and I refused to believe it was the battery. Had plenty of amp's but the voltage was a little low. 12.2v with no load. Went over to the local Volvo dealer and bought a quality battery. Didn't cost much more than the everstart walmart I was using. Car has been starting great every time. Been over a year now. Greg
      how much was the battery and what were the specs on it?

    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Then I'd pop out the flywheel viewport and check your flywheel for worn teeth. Obviously no engine stops in exactly the same place every time, making the issue completely random, but you might have some worn teeth in there which is why it gets weird and random and there is no pattern. You might need to remove the plugs to make turning the motor over easier.

      That would leave only the starter at that point and the starter test that Oceans60R mentioned. We had some guy on here not too long ago who had it down to a 4 or 5*F span of when his car would start vs when it would not with his starter issue. Replaced the starter and more issues. If you think about it, that is like down to a 0.0001" or less tolerance issue, making these starters quite sensitive.
      Interesting, I haven't heard of this 'viewport' before. Is it accessible from the top of the car? or does the starter need to be removed?

      And for the "4-5°" you're saying that other guy thought it was temperature related? So the flex plate teeth are worn slightly but only enough to affect the start when the metal expands or contracts in hot/cold weather? Personally I haven't noticed a connection with the ambient temp. Some days it will start right up and others it will take 2-3+ attempts. One day coming back from lunch I counted 5 attempts before it finally cranked.

      2007 S40 T5 AWD

    13. #11
      Quote Originally Posted by T5CO View Post
      Interesting, I haven't heard of this 'viewport' before. Is it accessible from the top of the car? or does the starter need to be removed?

      And for the "4-5°" you're saying that other guy thought it was temperature related? So the flex plate teeth are worn slightly but only enough to affect the start when the metal expands or contracts in hot/cold weather? Personally I haven't noticed a connection with the ambient temp. Some days it will start right up and others it will take 2-3+ attempts. One day coming back from lunch I counted 5 attempts before it finally cranked.
      Ok so my mistake, there is no viewport other than the starter hole. I could have sworn there was a removable cover, but I wouldn't put my life on it and VolvoPartsLisle.com didn't have anything on it either.

      That being said, yeah the guy had a starter issue, something inside the starter wasn't making contact to spin like it should. However he knew that based on the temperature outside whether the starter would work correctly or not. The days got warmer in th emorning and he reduced a 20*F window to a 10*F window and then down again when it warmed up again, it was wild.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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