C70 Waterfall Console Removal, 2006+
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    1. #1
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      C70 Waterfall Console Removal, 2006+

      Hello All!

      I had a broken shifter blind, and wanted to replace it. I found a number of instructional videos and websites on how to remove the waterfall console on a S40 and C30, so as to access things like the shifter blind, however I could not locate a single consolidated point of information that helped me with the C70.

      To any C70 owner who has read a write-up on how to remove a Waterfall Console, you have likely encountered difficulty accessing the two lower T25 screws at the base of the console.

      The reason that the C70 is different, is that unlike the S40 and C30, the C70 has a rear cup holder assembly that extends into the rear seat. This makes it extremely difficult to get to those two lower T25 screws at the base of the console. I will explain how to get to these screws on the C70.

      I took the liberty of taking a few pictures while doing this job and I'm going to post them here, along with two other links to processes and procedures that helped me out. This job took me about 2.5 hours to complete. but I had to figure out how to remove some things myself so it took me longer than it will hopefully take anyone else who follows this procedure.

      Before I start, here's a list of the tools I used:
      T25 Torx screw driver
      T20 Torx screw driver
      Nylon fiber pry tools - these are essential for trim removal
      Magnetic parts dish - There's a lot of screws in this job and you don't want to lose them! I got mine from Harbor Freight for like 4 bucks.
      10mm socket - for removing the battery
      8mm socket
      Rubber gloves - I wear gloves on the interior so that my fingernails don't scratch anything when I'm prying trim


      Step 1:
      The first step is to move one of the two front seats all the way forward. The reason being is that you'll want one seat to work comfortably from when taking apart the trim in the armrest console, etc. and you will need a lot of access to the rear seat. So having one seat all the way forward helps you get to the rear seats with ease.

      Step 2:
      Disconnect the Battery. I always do this when messing around with electronics. And in my case, since I was replacing the shifter blind, there's a circuit board there that you need to take off too. The reason this is Step 2 is because it's a pain to have to re-connect the battery just to move the seats around when you need to access the rear seat. Trust me, Step 1 was an afterthought, I had to go through the pain of reconnecting the battery to move one of the seats forward.

      Step 3:
      With the Seats in their appropriate positions and the Battery disconnected, the next thing that I did was remove the Trim piece around the armrest console. This is crucial for the C70 because you need to remove the Roof Switch clips. The Cigarette lighter can also be removed at this time.
      I followed the procedure in this video to carefully pry the trim out. I did not need to unscrew the trim from the plastic underside, because I was not replacing the trim itself. Here is a video on how to do this:
      https://youtu.be/PwJU5cZPZYQ

      Step 4:
      After removing the trim and the Roof Switches (and cigarette lighter), I proceeded to follow the steps in this article by Pelican Parts:

      http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...le_Removal.htm

      This article was extremely helpful, BUT it is only applicable to S40/C30 models. And there are a couple of items that, having gone through the procedure myself, should be noted:

      note: in Figure 6, when prying the access panel loose for the handbrake, you will need to pry it off completely, not just the back of the panel as is shown in the picture.
      note: also in Figure 6, DO NOT use a metal screw driver, this will severely damage the part. I used a nylon fiber pry tool, and even with that caused some damage to it.
      note: again in figure 6, the clips that hold this access panel in are EXTREMELY soft and fragile. They will likely break even with extreme care, so it might be a good idea to order a replacement part ahead of time for this piece. The Volvo part number is 39850614, and you should provide the dealer with your VIN as well. It cost me about $11 USD, so I ordered two of them just in case I need to do this again.
      note: in Figure 12, it's much less damaging to use a nylon pry tool to pull the locking tab up above the locking plate, instead of shoving it down below like in the picture.

      So, Follow the Pelican Parts Article, and STOP After Figure 12.

      Step 5:
      Again, STOP after Figure 12, and then pick up here:
      I removed the armrest top for some extra working space, and to ensure I didn't damage it in any way. In hindsight, I don't think this step is necessary, but here are pictures anyways. I started by prying the Aux input panel out.








      Step 6:
      Then I unplugged the aux port from it's connector. It's just a standard clip.








      Step 7:
      Pry out around the edges of the rear cup holder to lift it out (the blind is part of the rear cup holder assembly and does not come out separately).

      Inside the rear cup holder housing, there are 3 - 8mm bolts that need to be removed.






      Step 8:

      This is the hardest step. You need to remove the rear cup holder housing. It connects to the armrest console with 6 clips. The two clips at the top, are angled upwards. So when you're removing this, you really have to keep in mind that you will need to raise the armrest console up, and pull the rear cup holder housing downward and back away from the armrest console, to get it out. You can also use one of your pry tools to help you release the clips.

      It was a BEAR to get out. It will come out, but it will not be easy. This is where moving that other front seat far forward will come in handy, so you can more easily reach the rear cup holder housing.

      Please just be very very careful doing this, so that you don't snap any clips, or damage anything up near the waterfall console.

      note: I suppose you could remove the rear seats to make this a little bit easier, if you wanted to go that route
      Edit - 5/21/2017: note: Got some feedback that removing the rear seat could very well be an easier alternative to removing the cup holder housing. If going this route, just remember that you will still need to perform Step 7 to remove the three 8mm bolts in the rear cup holder housing. After removing the rear seat, resume with Step 9








      Step 9:
      After removing the rear cup holder housing, go back to the Pelican Parts article and RESUME with Figure 13.
      http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...le_Removal.htm




      If all you want to do is remove the console, stop here
      To re-assemble everything just go in reverse order. And again, Step 8 will be just as difficult to get back in. Just pay attention to how the clips are angled.


      For Shifter Blind Replacement

      Step 10:
      I followed the steps in the below video for the actual removal of the shifter blind. This guy does a great job with the whole end-to-end process, but again, for the C70, it's only applicable after the Waterfall console is removed.
      https://youtu.be/EUko-n-0lZM?t=4m18s


      After this, just reassemble everything in the reverse order.

      Also, I went ahead and included a parts diagram, just in case anyone finds it useful, just call up Volvo and ask what part number "X" is.




      I really hope this information is helpful to someone out there looking to do any sort of replacement on the Waterfall console!
      Last edited by Carondelet; 05-21-2017 at 09:02 AM.

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    3. #2
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      Good write up. I did this job about 3 weeks ago, and I would suggest removing the rear seat bottom cushion first, should make the job much easier. Also, I did not do as much disassembly as you did. The most difficult part to remove was the trim around the parking brake.

    4. #3
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      Thank you to both of you! My shifter blind just went this week and I ordered the part for $16. But after carefully reviewing everything, I think I'm staying with the ugly hole, unless I decide to have the dealership do this. (Manual mode not working doesn't bother me as I would never use it) If they break something, they'll have to fix it. But I'm printing this out regardless, giving it to my son, in case he decides to be nice to his mother and do it with care!

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    6. #4
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      nice write up, thanks... trying to muster up the courage to do this myself to wire power/USB into the center console & behind the waterfall to eliminate all those wires all over the place

    7. #5
      Good instructions. Changing the shifter blind was the first thing I did to my daughter's car 3 years ago. It looked much better not broken and allowed it to be shifted manually. I used this thread for reference from the s40 forum: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...05#post2309305 it didn't take long at all.

    8. #6
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      I saw that from the S40 forum. It's just that taking everything apart doesn't make me too confident that something won't break, and my son is afraid I may flip on him if he scratches up my interior. However, I need to get a grip and maybe let him do it. I'm not a fan of things not working right either.

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by Joe7Bros View Post
      Good write up. I did this job about 3 weeks ago, and I would suggest removing the rear seat bottom cushion first, should make the job much easier. Also, I did not do as much disassembly as you did. The most difficult part to remove was the trim around the parking brake.
      Absolutely! I mentioned in Step 8 as a 'note' that it'd also be feasible to take the rear seat out. I didn't do that, but if I have to do this again, I'll try the rear seat removal method. Since this is a really good point and could also save some people some time, I'll make this note in Step 8 more noticeable. Thank you for this.

      The armrest disassembly wasn't necessary, but I didn't wanna accidentally break it off when working. However certain steps, like removing the Roof Switch Clips, was definitely necessary. I also think that removing the aux input cable will be necessary too, just to ensure that you don't damage any of the electronics. You might not have to, but I'm one of those "better safe than sorry" guys.

      And regarding the trim around the parking brake: Yea, this was a BEAST to remove, but mostly because I was removing it as carefully as I possibly could, going slow and trying not to rush it. For all my efforts though, one of the clips holding it in still sheered. So that's why I included the part number and the $$ - so people doing this don't need to waste time being careful with a part that's going to break anyways hahaha

      Thank you for your input as well!
      Last edited by Carondelet; 05-21-2017 at 08:50 AM.

    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by irbrenda View Post
      I saw that from the S40 forum. It's just that taking everything apart doesn't make me too confident that something won't break, and my son is afraid I may flip on him if he scratches up my interior. However, I need to get a grip and maybe let him do it. I'm not a fan of things not working right either.
      Don't be daunted by the effort! The job is more time consuming than it is difficult. A lot of the trim pieces are pretty durable, and if you're careful, you won't break anything. Invest in an 11pc set of Nylon Fiber trim removal tools, I got mine on Amazon for I think $14. And just pry slowly and carefully, you or your son can definitely do it!

      In Step 8 I noted that it would also be feasible to remove the rear seat instead of removing the rear cup holder housing. That will probably be much easier, however you'll still have to undo those three 8mm bolts in the cup holder housing. Actually, I'll edit it that in my original post to make it more noticeable.

      The only place where you're at high risk for breaking something is at Step 4, where I reference the Pelican Parts website's Figure 6. Removing that trim piece around the handbrake was a pain. It will probably break, and even if it doesn't it will be marred. Because of that, I included the Volvo part number in the write up, so you can call the dealer ahead of time and get a replacement (just give them your VIN so you can get the right color match). It's only $11 so there's really not much to lose!

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by rodneygt View Post
      Good instructions. Changing the shifter blind was the first thing I did to my daughter's car 3 years ago. It looked much better not broken and allowed it to be shifted manually. I used this thread for reference from the s40 forum: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...05#post2309305 it didn't take long at all.
      Thanks Rodney! Yeah I saw that thread in the S40 forums as well. The only reason I decided to make a post here in the C70 forums is that we have that pesky rear-cup holder that prevents us from sliding the armrest console back to expose the two T25 screws on the lower part of the Waterfall console. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete, but I was being very cautious with everything. I think if I were to do it again, it'd take me an hour to an hour and a half.
      Also, to show some appreciation for that thread, I went back and posted the part number for that handbrake trim piece that's bound to break for anyone looking to do this on an S40.

    12. #10
      Added as a sticky in the S40/V50 section, since that's sort of the central hub for P1 DIYs.

    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Added as a sticky in the S40/V50 section, since that's sort of the central hub for P1 DIYs.
      Thank you so much!!

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