Turbo Control Valve a/k/a Boost Control Solenoid, Fuel Pressure Sensor and Plug Replacement
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    1. #1

      Turbo Control Valve a/k/a Boost Control Solenoid, Fuel Pressure Sensor and Plug Replacement

      Turbo Control Valve:

      I was not having any issues with the car but it now has 142,000 miles on it and I was planning to change the plugs. Another member here suggested that I might want to change the TCV and FPS as they have been known to fail. As to the TCV, I did some reading on line and found this thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ve-Replacement I decided to make this thread so there would be some pictures and more specific information should someone plan on doing this. I chose to work from under the car instead of removing the passenger front wheel and liner. I think this is the better way to do it. I thought this job would be more difficult than it was.

      Place car on ramps. Remove the lower engine cover as if you were about to change oil.

      The turbo control valve is about 6 inches behind the oil cooler portion of the oil pan and about 6 inches up - just above the passenger side driveshaft to axle coupling. Initially I placed a small battery powered led on top of where the lower passenger side control arm bolts on, later swapping it for a corded work light. Light is your friend... I'm touching the TCV with a screwdriver in this pic:

      Push the TCV off of the tab to which it is secured. You can snake your left arm to the area to manipulate the TCV. The ac lines impede a more direct route from directly below but you can get your hand though somewhat if you don't mind a little pain and you can get pliers and screwdrivers through there as well. You can get the TCV off either with your hand, a long pair of needle nose pliers, or a long screwdriver. You just push it off the tab. Then, push the metal locking wire/tab on the electrical connector down while you slide the electrical connector off of the TCV.

      Do the vacuum lines individually. That is, remove one from the old TCV and attach to the corresponding nipple on the new TCV before moving on to the next line. This prevents you from mixing up the lines and nipples - and no one wants to mix up their nipples...

      I bought a set of 11 inch needle nose pliers from Harbor freight for around eight or nine dollars. It came with two pairs of pliers. One was in the standard configuration for needle nose players. The other, had a 90° bend at the tip. Both are extremely helpful in this job. I also used a standard set of pliers.

      To remove and reinstall the vacuum lines, choose the best set of pliers for the particular hose location and squeeze the spring-loaded hose clamps. After squeezing, slide the clamp up the line. Now twist and turn The vacuum lines until you feel the bond between the rubber line and the TCV nipple break free. Depending upon the environmental/road conditions that your vehicle has been subjected to, you may be able to remove one or more of the lines by hand. I was able to remove one line by hand by holding the line with one hand and twisting the TCV with the other. As to the other lines, I had to either employ the help of a screwdriver twisting and rocking at the base of the vacuum line where it connects to the TCV or one of the pairs of needle nose pliers – if using the pliers be very careful not to tear the vacuum line. I also used a trim and push pin remover, which is like a screwdriver with a flattened split prong on the end similar to the claw on a hammer you pull nails with. I was able to walk the hose off the stubborn nipple with this tool.

      The two hoses on the two nipples which were at 90° to one another on the TCV were the easiest for me to remove. The line on the metallic colored nipple adjacent to the electrical connection on the TCV was much more difficult - there was less slack in the hose to work with and the exposed metallic surface of that nipple apparently had a slightly more pronounced effect on the rubber of the vacuum line molding to it.

      This pic shows the TCV freed from the electrical connector and one of the hose clamps slid down the line.

      After switching all of the hoses, snap the electrical connector on and slide the new TCV onto the tab. Here's the new TCV installed:

      I bought the TCV from IPD. IPD calls it a boost control solenoid (BCS) instead of a turbo control valve. Their list price is $57.25. Currently it is on sale for $54.39. Unfortunately, I do not believe it was on sale when I ordered it. If you're reading this, IPD, please feel free to send me 3 bucks.

      I spent an hour and 10 minutes swapping this part. That time did include me contemporaneously dictating the draft of this post into my phone and taking pictures. It did not include me removing or reinstalling the lower engine cover, which only takes a few of minutes. So, a first timer should be able to do this in 45 minutes to an hour and a half. If I had to do it again, I could probably do it in 30 minutes or less.

      I would imagine that all P1 cars with T5 engines share a similar or identical procedure is that outlined above.

      Here are the tools I used for this job:


      Fuel Pressure Sensor

      As to the fuel pressure sensor, there's a great write up on it here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-the-T5-engine

      The procedure for the 06+ T5 C70 is identical to that of the S40/V50 (and presumably a C30) in the link. I'll just add a couple of notes and pictures to supplement the link. One is the fuse box opened with a fuse puller on fuse 74 (double check that your #74 is the fuel pump fuse; also note that while the numbering imprinted on the actual fuse box where the fuses plug in and on the image in the owners manual match, those numbers do not correspond with the way they are numbered in the description list in the owners manual; e.g., 74 on the fuse box and owners manual image corresponds with 44 in the owners manual typed description list; obviously this could differ with different production dates).

      This is the fuel pressure release valve with blue cap still on:

      This is the left top engine cover removed with the old FPS still installed. There's a flashlight pointed at it to highlight it.

      This is a T25 torx bit taped in a 1/4" wrench since I didn't have any torx keys (using a ratchet or driver handle is too wide to get in there):

      Comparisons of the new/old FPS:

      The new FPS installed:

      I bought the FPS from IPD. It's regular price is $34.95. Of course now it's on sale for $33.20...

      I also ran across this YouTube video after the fact: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zZkBeSE9kwE


      Spark plugs:

      As to the spark plug change, I read this link: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...hange-Write-Up and this one: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...k-plugs-41321/

      I got the plugs at voluparts.com and their web store: http://store.voluparts.com Their website is a little dated so if you can't navigate it, they're good to call. They had the best price I found on the oem plugs - $44.00. They sell the identical bosh platinum plug as original without the word "Volvo" on it. In the pic below you can see the 5 new plugs (with antisieze applied) arrayed so you can see the writing on all sides next to two of the Volvo plugs showing the writing on both sides - each says "r6".

      The only notes I would add is that the engine cover bolts were T30. One link says T27. One says T30.

      Also, and I think this is mentioned in one of the links, gap should be .027-.028. The plugs came set at .030. Be very careful in adjusting gap. If you end up needing to widen the gap, you can damage the platinum electrode if you just force the gauge through in the way you might with a copper plug.

      Also, I found plug torque specs ranging from 20-22ft lbs. I split the difference although I was probably closer to 22 when done.

      Here's a comparison pic of the old and new plug in the electrode area. I got this car at roughly 80,000 miles. It now has 142,000. This is the first time I've changed the plugs. So, these plugs have somewhere between 60-142,000 miles on them.

      Last edited by rodneygt; 05-19-2017 at 03:13 PM.

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    3. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Los Angeles
      nice write up!

      have you noticed improvements in smoothness of acceleration or performance?

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak/18x8 Black Midirs
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    4. #3
      That is impressive, I am so glad that have two 850's, I can change my TCVs standing up without removing any other parts, it takes me about 2 minutes.

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    6. #4
      Quote Originally Posted by jschinito View Post
      nice write up!

      have you noticed improvements in smoothness of acceleration or performance?

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      I've never had any engine-type issues with it. It may be a bit smoother, though I didn't really notice any issues from before, not that I really drove it then. I may be driving it a good bit more now as we're getting this daughter a newer car to finish college etc in and I may keep this one as a middle age toy or sell it. . .

      The old plugs did not look good and their gap had gotten way wide - you can even see the difference in the pic above. I drove it to the office today and it runs great. It pours on its power evenly and consistently.

      If you look at the second pic of the FPS you can see the plastic section that goes into the fuel rail has taken on a chalky look. I'm glad I replaced these other parts and thank you for suggesting it.

    7. #5
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Nashville, TN
      Thanks for the write up Rodney! I'm bookmarking this thread. Definitely going to reference it soon when I do the TCV and the FPS.

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