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S60/V70 R BREMBO Brake SWAP :: HOW TO

78K views 174 replies 36 participants last post by  John C 
#1 · (Edited)




What you need:
1. Set of R:eek: Calipers, they sell on ebay between 300-600$.
2. Brake pads, (x4) make your choice, OEM, Aftermarket, Subaru STI pads work (Front only). Rockauto.com
3. Rotors (x4) Rock Auto
4. Mounting bolts M12x30mm Hardware store, use only Grade 10.9 Bolts.
5. Brass sleeve 1mm thick and 14mm diameter. This goes in the hub where the M14 bolt went for the stock caliper. New one uses M12 bolt so you need something to fill in that 1mm gap.

OEM XC90.
FR: 336mm Rotors
M14X35mm mounting bolts.
RR: 305mm Rotors
M10x30mm bolts.

S60/V70 R Brakes
FR: 330mm Rotors
M12x55mm You will need 30mm since the steering stops will not be needed.
RR: 330mm Rotors
M10X30 Reuse the stock XC90 bolts.

You will need some sort of wheel spacers as the stock wheels sit way too close to the calipers and the Brembos are quite a bit larger.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-5X108-...ash=item33b6d01edd:g:AAYAAOSwt7pXLacI&vxp=mtr
 
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#81 ·
The spacers came the other day but the factory lug bolts won't work with the wheels sitting flush on the spacers so I had to find smaller factory style lug bolts with shorter heads so the wheel will sit flush with the spacer.

I found Gorilla M14x1.5 spline lug bolts work perfectly. They sit 1.5mm out of the spacer with works perfect with the indents between the lug holes on the backside of the wheel. Now they don't have the bore lip but that is only to make lining up the wheel correctly more easy. Because it doesn't have the lips you have to hand tighten all the lug bolts in a star pattern before you crank them down. This ensures the wheel is center on the hub with the bolts.

Anyhow here is a couple pics with them on.




Also, my wife made a comment about the color and almost anything goes with silver and she really likes the gold so I might be heading down that route.
 
#82 ·
So these are the s60R Powerstop rotors and pads from Rockauto.com and boy I'm telling you they will stop our trucks on a dime! ...... BUT .... this combo is louder than #(*&#. How do I get these to quiet down? I put the grease on the metal backsides of the pads where they touch the pistons and the edge guides where the touch the calipers. I broke them in like normal... 5 good hard brakes from 40mph down to 10mph then 35 down to 10 then drive not using them to let them cool down.

I'm baffled as to why they sound like the stoppers are touching the rotors. They are not, just if anyone's questioning it. They sound like my Project Mu pads and rotors I had on my old GTR, but even those were not this loud. I'll try some brake cleaner on the rotors just in case but other than that I'm out of ideas on how to quiet them down.
 
#83 · (Edited)
Slotted rotors are surely known for not being smooth and loud especially under heavy breaking.

I experianced the same issue when i went to VW Golf R32 brakes with slotted rotors all around on my TDI.

So i expected the same performance out of the slotted rotors on the XC90. They are smooth when used lightly but once you hammer on them especially at highway speeds you feel a grinding type of noise on the brake pedal. Mine even squeal in the morning. You can always try the non slotted rotors and see if that helps!

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#84 ·
They are quieting down some, but I'm still going to pull them apart and cake on some red brake quiet where the calipers touch the pads. I also noticed the right front rotor is not even. If you check out the pic you can see looking down on the rotor you can see the right side is thicker than the left side of the slot. I'm thinking this is causing my slight wobble at around 80mph. I'm about to hit 80k miles and 12yrs old so I went ahead and ordered the IPD front end links, front ball joints, and new upper pillow mounts. This will at least remove the more commonly failed parts from potential causes. Next step is to contact RockAuto for a replacement rotor then I'll have the wheels balanced again and 4 wheel alignment done. Oh yeah, almost forgot I can't even start this work until I get the 14mm/12mm sleeves I ordered from China. I just want to be absolutely safe since when my son graduates from high school this year I'm contemplating giving him this truck for a graduation gift.
 
#85 ·
I just purchased my R Brembo brakes for $465 and now I will gather up the rest of the parts needed. I plan on putting them on the red XC90 and I may paint them red or leave them grey with the R logo.
 
#87 ·
Get either S60R or V70R. Same rotor. 330mm front. The XC90 are 336mm front, so the R calipers won't fit.

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#89 · (Edited)
No no no. R rotors are 330

Edit: To clarify, 2006 or 2007 R rotors are 330mm, I don't know about other years (and it doesn't matter for what you're doing).

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#90 ·
K so again.... Grab S60R/V70R rotors. I am debating on getting slotted since stopping is a little better... We will see on pricing. The calipers had good pads in them I believe. So I dont really need pads. The brakes on the XC90 squeel BAD always but the rotor is good and the pads are good....
 
#93 · (Edited)
One of the guys here was saying his slotted squeal a bit. Just the smooth ones I'm running are doing just fine, no squeal at all. I'll find the link to the ones I bought, they're priced really well. And I would recommend replacing the pads, that's a good way to wear the new rotors unevenly if they didn't wear right on the last ones. Pads are cheap and easy to replace on the R setup too.

Here ya go. There is an option for front and rear with pads, $360
https://www.carid.com/2006-volvo-s60-brakes/ebc-stage-1-premium-street-brake-kit-4258600.html

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#91 ·
YES XC90 is 336mm FR and 308mm RR .
S60 R is 330mm FR and 330mm RR.
 
#94 ·
For anyone looking to pick up a cheaper set and doesn't mind the orange color, these are OBO on the Volvo parts Facebook page. I'm guessing $250 total would take them.


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#95 ·
That's tempting. The need for spacers on the Vulcanis has sort of changed my mind about the Brembo swap, though.
 
#99 ·
The S60R can run the Vulcanis without a spacer (according to people here), so I don't really get why the XC can't. Only explanation is that the caliper mounting point to wheel hub mounting point spacing is different (with the same rotor). This has me worried, as the fixed caliper design is intolerant to offsets.

I am in the same boat with using the Vulcanis (my current wheel)...

Can you verify this Rpower?
 
#97 ·
There was an R that had bright orange calipers that sold a short while back. Wonder if these are off of that.
 
#102 ·
Why oh why won't these fit a P3?? :-(

Seems like someone could make a bit of $$ engineering a bracket to bolt up P2R calipers to P3 hubs...
 
#103 · (Edited)
If you want to PayPal me the $ for the cheapest xc90 and xc60 used hub/spindle combo off eBay (I can identify the parts), I can design and fab (at least quote out) the hardware.

A superior combo is buying the V60 polestar brakes for your XC60. Might be a similar swap as the P2R-->P2XC... It ain't gonna be cheap though.
 
#105 ·
Anyone know if the brembos will fit under my s60s 17 inch Sentinel wheels? I have a set lined up and want to pull the trigger ASAP.

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I would say yes, but you'll need spacers unless the spokes curve out a lot. I just Googled the rim, and it looks like they don't. But there is a template on here that you can print off and cut out to figure out if they will fit. It looks like V50's 18" rims fit them with just a little room to spare, so 17" will be close.

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#108 ·
Okay. I just finished up my Brembo swap. For those wondering (it has been said) The Calipers WILL NOT fit behind Vulcanis wheels. You are about 5mm shy in the front and about 1-2mm shy in the rear. Lucky for me IPD is 15 minutes away and I will grab some 25mm spacers tomorrow. I went with

Blue Brembo calipers
Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors
SS Lines
Stoptech pads
Motul fluid


I wish I got to take it for a spin, but I didn't read that they didn't clear.... Now I will hustle and get some spacers on the car.
 
#109 ·
Okay. I just finished up my Brembo swap. For those wondering (it has been said) The Calipers WILL NOT fit behind Vulcanis wheels. You are about 5mm shy in the front and about 1-2mm shy in the rear. Lucky for me IPD is 15 minutes away and I will grab some 25mm spacers tomorrow. I went with

Blue Brembo calipers
Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors
SS Lines
Stoptech pads
Motul fluid

I wish I got to take it for a spin, but I didn't read that they didn't clear.... Now I will hustle and get some spacers on the car.
Cant wait to see some pictures. Looks like a lot of $$$ went into it with some great parts.
What did you end up doing with the rear heat shields?
 
#110 ·
I just cut the rear dust shield. The lip I cut off. No biggie. Lots of cars when you do a BBK swap you either cut or remove that dust shield. It is still there enough to stop derbies from entering the rotor. As far as the money that went in, it really was not to bad. I dropped 475 shipped on the rotors, pads, fluid and lines. I didnt really want the lines, but they came in the kit. I also DID NOT want slotted and drilled rotors, but thats all they made for the car. I just wanted slotted but I would have been in the rotors 600-700 dollars alone. The Brembos I just waited and waited to find the right deal. I snagged a set off a local pick and pull for 200 dollars then rebuilt them. So all in all I am in the brakes 800 with the rebuild kit and the paint for the calipers.

NOW THE WHEELS.....

I am having a HELL of a time finding wheels that fit and clear. The 67mm hub bore is killing me. I found a set of DUB wheels (dont like them was going to swap the name badge with a Volvo one) But the spokes hit and rubbed. Also, there was no space for the 10mm placement bolt. So I used my sponsership for my G35 with Niche to track down a set of wheels made for Brembos or BBK's. The spokes are concave and very very rounded so they clear the brakes. But when I got them in 20x9 +40 I checked the hub which was a 63mm..... I though that it as just the lip of the hub that was preventing the wheel from seating right, so I ground 1 lip of the hub off. But it still was far to close and would not clear. I didnt want to go ANY further because I would have made the hub metal smaller and thats not a risk I will take. So I called them up and they are going to make a custom set with a 68 hub so I can slip on hubsentric rings.

Most people are not willing to drop the money on wheels and tires, but with my sponsor its 100 a wheel and the tires are 600... so 1k. I was going to need new tires this year anyways. So in the end it was all money I was going to have to spend. I will post pics soon.
 
#111 ·





Here are some pics. Car is still on jack stands since I dont have wheels or spacers to get it to fit. I didnt see that the Vulcanis wheels wouldnt clear until it was to late. When I took off 1 caliper it collapsed so I am thinking its completely seized. Not positive but I think so. It was also constantly squeeling when we were braking so that may be the issue. Regardless I Am not putting it back on.
 
#112 ·
These are on the Facebook for sale page, $400 + shipping and they're brand new. Says he will get pictures when he gets home, but at least he gave me a price. I'm not affiliated.


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#113 ·
YO Dudes: I am selling a complete R brake setup. Low mileage calipers, new Stoptech slotted rotors, new Akebono pads, and new brake hardware.

Listed in the classifieds. Looking to sell as a whole package. If an XC90 peep purchases the kit I will provide custom adapter bushings for the front calipers (don't just rely on the clamping force).

Sadly, I have no time for this project...
 
#117 ·
I don't know why you guys are worrying so much about the hub bore. Just buy some 1" spacers with no bore lip and that frees you up to use any bore size out there. All you have to do is spin on all the lug nuts by hand to center the wheel before you crank them down.

I've done this to mine and if you check back through the thread and my pics it all works out just fine. In fact I was able to (using the spacers) convert from lug bolts to lug nuts making tire changing and fitting SO much easier and faster!
 
#118 ·
I don't know why you guys are worrying so much about the hub bore. Just buy some 1" spacers with no bore lip and that frees you up to use any bore size out there. All you have to do is spin on all the lug nuts by hand to center the wheel before you crank them down.

I've done this to mine and if you check back through the thread and my pics it all works out just fine. In fact I was able to (using the spacers) convert from lug bolts to lug nuts making tire changing and fitting SO much easier and faster!
No that works as a solution but not 100% for me.
The issue that I dont want to ignore is the spacer itself and the new loading that you put on it.

Most spacers we find are cheap made in china units and we have no idea what kind of Alloy was used to make them. Most seem to be made out of very soft aluminum.
Also the bolts or studs used are at question for me since they usually lack any sort of strength rating...
And finally the issue with the load bearing hub center that is present on the hub itself.

This helps support the weight of the vehicle and keeps the boats form experiancing shear loading because they do a great job when loaded in tension but no so much in shear.

Now if you find spacers with proper centering that helps but I just dont trust 5000lbs of mass, 1250lbs supported by 5 bolts and no load bearing like the one built on the OEM designed hub.
 
#122 ·
Look at a local hardware store and you will heave to measure the sleeve. I think it's 1mm thick 14mm OD and 12mm ID. And the bolt was M12 x 1.5 but dig in the thread for the exact one.

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#123 ·
The bolts should come with the brakes. Otherwise order them from a Volvo parts site

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