I've been reading this forum since before I ordered the car, and have read all of the comments about 4C, and it negative influence on the R's handling. I've always been relatively happy with the car, my ownership experience has been a good one. I haven't felt the need to mechanically modify the car, which is the most powerful and capable car I've ever owned. Somehow, the R isn't as emotionally involving as any of my previous cars (a series of Saab 900s and our current 9-5), but that's just my personal perspective or bias.

The only minor disappointments with the car have been the big turning radius (which I totally knew about and accepted before ever ordering mine), and the occasional skittish-ness of the suspension. Those two combine to make the car drive "big", i.e. it seems to drive like a car that's bigger than the V70R is. I had read about other people being happy with the handling after disabling 4C, but never bothered to try it out.

Today I was cleaning out the luggage compartment, and removed the fuse access panel. From there I saw the 4C accelerometer mounted, and decided to unplug it and go for a drive. Verdict: a more settled ride. Not quite as buttoned down, but definitely more settled. I'd have been perfectly happy if the suspension felt this way from day 1.

When I got home I hooked the sensor back up, closed the fuse panel, and finished my vacuuming of the luggage area. It's great to know how it feels. And to know I can do that any time I want. But like most of you, I'll keep the system plugged in. It was a great little experiment, thanks for all the people who have posted over the past ~3 years about how to do try that out.

The next "mod" will come in a month when my daughter turns 1, when I can turn her car seat around to forward-facing and get some front-seat legroom back. I can't wait.

"KR in this case stands for 'King of the Road'." - Car and Driver

YES!!! I gotta second that.

Becuase of kr900's post, I figured what the heck, I'll run try it out myself right now.

Went on my usual test drive route, and the difference is simply amazing. The car does what I want it to now (not what it wants to). You can shift the weight around properly, put the load on the tires you want the load on, etc.

Keep in mind I've got the eibachs and ipd's track-spec sway bars.

Initial turn in isn't quite as crisp as it is in Advanced.

I think it's probably a toss up as to whether or not the vehicle is as fast with 4C disconnected as it is in Advanced on a smooth road. I think it might end up being the same because, despite the softer damping rates with the 4C disconnected, you can drive the car the way you're supposed to, which probably compensates for the lessened damping.

Now, compare track times in Advanced on a bumpy track versus 4C disconnected, and I guarantee it'll be faster with 4C disconnected. I'm VERY impressed with how well the vehicle stays the course over bumps (instead of going every possible direction other than where you want it). And, as JRL's harped about for years, the rear end hop is completely eliminated.

I doubt disconnecting 4C would be as impressive on a vehicle with stock springs/sways.

Perhaps not AS impressive, but impressive to me nonetheless after 2 years with 4C always on...

"KR in this case stands for 'King of the Road'." - Car and Driver

I would think advanced ON A PERFECTLY SMOOTH ROAD will be a bit quicker but ONE BUMP and all bets are off

Wheels stayed planted, but the rest of the car was like an old Buick, swaying all over the place...

Wasn't a brain fade, it was a bad accelerometer and a bad shock sensor that led to this showing up on my first lap...

Driving on the ring with 4C throwing fits is less fun than driving with loads of body roll...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/z...05254

Worst part is, today, I went into get my new bushings loosened and re-tightened because rear end was very squirrely above 100mph ... when we hooked it up to VIDA to turn off auto light switching, we did a SUM calibration and VIDA discovered I have a bad right rear 4C sensor... no time to get it fixed before Sunday though (farewell Ring trip), so I'll be trying the ring again with 4C disabled, but on TME springs and with a 22mm roll bar. Should be interesting, will let you all know.

Quote, originally posted by JRL »

Told you so, as I've been saying for years but you had to wait for SOMEONE ELSE to also tell you, I'm disappointed

Don't be disappointed. I had just been lazy. The real catalyst for change was that I just recently moved, and the new ride into work is on a MUCH bumpier stretch of road . . . so bumpy that the 4C had been giving so much trouble that I've actually been thinking about selling my R because I can't stand feeling like a baby sitter (always trying to keep the car in line). And the kr900 posted, and I was like "Oh yeah, I should try that!"

Don't bother with the fuse. Pull the lead off the accelerometer in the trunk. You will retain your automatic lights that way. Otherwise, they point straight down.

Coming soon: PhMIC

To me this was an envious assignment for the engineering team. To have a blank sheet of paper, within the constraints of the P2 platform, and have the focus of only a performance oriented car, not having to please the soccer moms etc. it makes it more of a disappointment. Volvo even conceded to "sticky" tires, at least for Volvo. I would like to think that the best and brightest of Volvo, Monroe, Ohlins, Motorola, et al could have done better and blown away the competition with an honest, high performance, active suspension system, that would more than make up for any under run in horsepower, especially combined with the R brakes.

I applaud those that have made it be what it should be, and kept it an active system as well. Surely we are past the days of Eibachs and Koni's, as much as lever action shocks.

My dealer experience is so modification adverse that I am not changing anything to give them the most remote of excuses, lest I would probably be complaining less, and more action oriented, as many here have done. I do also use my V70R for touring and load and ground clearance is a consideration.

"He who fits the most toys on his roof rack, wins!"

Quote, originally posted by JRL »

I don't know on an 05-06. It's 23 in the side dashboard on an 04 but 05-06's have a different electrical system. Open all your fuse covers and LOOK (It will say somewhere)

Well, see, although I did this last year, I couldn't remember which one it was, and when I looked in the side fuse cover, I didn't see one that said 4C or active chassis...

I went ahead an pulled 23 like you suggested, but that only disabled my trip computer and steering stalk, 4C buttons still worked.

Might it be 27 - CCD?

Quote, originally posted by "R" Kelly »

I did another lap in the afternoon, this time with fuse 27 pulled, No 4C.

Sometimes I forget how anal and infomative I am...

Pull down the panel on the driver's side. Towards the bottom near the back part of the wheel well you'll see a black box that's bolted onto the frame. Pull the plug on that little black box.

Once you know where it is, you can do this in about 30 seconds . . . easier than pulling a fuse.

I just did this .....WOW!....what a difference.
Recently I tagged a curb, avoiding a large truck that wandered into my lane while making a left turn, and now I need an alignment.
The rear hop and side stepping is even more pronounced now so I'm bringing it in for service, obviously.
Anyway, I figured I would try this out...like I said, big difference...but what else do we lose when this is disconnected. I have Eibachs but stock bars and lately I've been driving in comfort mode anyway so no big thing about losing the sport /advanced mode. What about the traction control, anti dive etc...?

Pete

Curious but how?