How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing
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    1. #1
      Member volvoNB's Avatar
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      How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing

      This how to is for replacing just the oil filter housing only. If you have an aftermarket airbox or just a cone filter, then you are in luck. It is fairly straight forward.

      If you need to remove the stock air box, you can follow K&N instructions found here: http://www.kandn.com/instructions/69-9000_inst.pdf
      Some people were able to replace the housing by just moving the stock airbox to the side. Removing it completely and putting it back is fairly difficult.

      Difficultly rating: 3 (for just oil filter housing)
      (1 is air filter changing and 10 is engine rebuild)

      Approximate Duration: 1 hour

      Parts Needed:
      * Oil filter housing (Part number: 30788494) about $140 at the dealer
      * 1" diameter hose clamp

      Tools Needed:
      * Flat head screwdriver
      * short 3/8" drive socket extension
      * long 3/8" drive socket extension
      * 3/8" swivel socket extension
      * 3/8" drive
      * 3/8" 10mm socket
      * 10mm ratchet

      For the following steps, use the image below. The number on the pictures is the order in which the parts should be removed.

      Items in green are stuff bolted to the housing.
      Items in red are the bolts that secure the housing.
      Items in blue are other parts that attaches to the housing.

      For removing the bolts, I used the 10mm ratchet to loosen the bolt. Then I used the 10mm socket and swivel to remove it completely. See image at the end of this post. Everything can be removed from the top of the car. If you have problems or difficulties, the lower bolts can easily be accessed from under the car.

      NOTE: I would recommend you tap the holes on the new oil filter housing where the dip stick housing and wire attachment bolts are secured before installing. It seems that these holes need to be retapped. It is much harder to get it straight when the housing is on the car.

      Reference image:

      Steps:
      1. Remove the bolt that secures the oil dip stick holder attached to the housing. Number 1 in green.
      2. Remove the dip stick holder by giving it tug. Be sure to not lose the green seal that attaches to the oil pan. If you feel uneasy, you can just move the dip stick holder to one side.
      3. Cover the hole where the dip stick holder removed with some paper so nothing can accidently fall in.
      4. Remove the bolts that secure the wire harness attached to the housing. Number 2 and 3 in green.
      5. Remove the bolts that secure the oil filter housing to the engine. Number 4-7 in red.
      Note: If you have difficultly getting to these bolt, they can also be easily accessed from under the car. See image below.
      6. Remove the harness plug on the housing. Number 8 in blue.
      7. Remove the upper hose clamp using a flat head screw driver to pry it loosen it. Number 9 in blue.
      8. Detach the upper hose.
      9. Remove the oil filter housing and while wiggling hose number 10 off.
      10.Clean off the dirt around the openings.
      11.Reverse steps to reinstall. Note: The image below shows how to use a regular hose clamp for the upper hose.

      Alternate access to oil filter housing bolts from under the car. The part labeled 227 is the new housing:

      Removing bolts:

      Please let me know if I missed anything.

      2005 S40 T5 BSR Stage 3

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    3. #2
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (volvoNB)

      hi,

      for what purpose u nned to replace the oil filter housing?

      thanks


    4. #3
      Member volvoNB's Avatar
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (andrewlim)

      If your engine starts making a pulsating squealing sound, then it means the PCV is clogged. This is located in the oil filter housing and can not be replaced seperately. If you run in this state for too long, you might see oil spewing all over your engine bay.

      A good test is to pull the dipstick and the sound goes away. This means the PCV is clogged.


      Dealer charge about $500 for parts and labor if you are not under warranty.

      Past Threads about the squealing problem:
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=82252
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=83564
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=80861

      Thread with pictures of what can happen:
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/z...age=1

      2005 S40 T5 BSR Stage 3

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    6. #4
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (volvoNB)

      volvoNB,

      thanks for explaining !


    7. #5
      Member -ForceFed-'s Avatar
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (volvoNB)

      Glad you made a write up, i was gonna take pictures of the next one i did and beat me to it. Better picture quality too haha. Sticky thread material
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    8. #6
      Junior Member Bonecutter's Avatar
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (ForceFed Motorsports)

      Wow, that is one of the nicest DIY write ups I have seen, thanks!

      Yes please sticky this mods. Why isn't this thread subdivided anyway? There's more than enough content for different topics.


    9. #7
      Member lamarguy's Avatar
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (volvoNB)

      Thanks for the good write-up.
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    10. #8
      Senior Member nme95k's Avatar
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      Re: How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing (andrewlim)

      i had this problem since august. if you dont hear a sound that sounds like a ''bad belt'' you dont have it yet.
      this post is on the dot...well done....

    11. #9
      Member genjy's Avatar
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      Thanks for the info.

    12. #10
      Member s40boy's Avatar
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      Re: (genjy)

      Great write up! I just had mine replaced at the dealership under Extended Warrenty 205 (which covers - almost all - oil traps gone bad up to 120,000 miles or 10 years).

      Our oil traps are notorious for going bad, so make sure you change this out if you hear the woo woo woo sound coming from your engine bay. It almost sounds like a belt gone bad!

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    13. #11
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      Great post, followed the instructions and got mine replace in 1h 45 mins. Now Engine light is ON any ideas why?

    14. #12
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      awesome write up!
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    15. #13
      Junior Member thebracko's Avatar
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      This repair is covered (at least in North America) for ~10 years, & ~160k km by Volvo. (only if it has failed, not as a preventative measure). If you have the old style plastic PCV hose (with accordion flex sections) that goes from the oil trap to the top of the head, it also should be replaced with the new style rubber hose.

    16. #14
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Thumbs up

      Did You unhook the Negative - like doing a Steering Wheel at ( Power Supply ) and give it a few min. to power down ?
      I'd just Clear - Code - after reading It .

      Don't Think - You would have to Instruct ECU as to - New Part Number ? Hhmmm

      Did You have pictures of the : O - Ring type Gasket , Cleaning Procedure or any Details ?
      If You have a Photo of doing the - Top Hose Clamp - I'd get that into the Mix for a Complete Write Up .
      Good Photo's

      5th Photo is a Little Steep the Universal Joint - Socket - Maybe on the other side of the Hose , as I break those Things like that .
      Last edited by EngTech; 12-13-2011 at 10:55 AM.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Higogo View Post
      Great post, followed the instructions and got mine replace in 1h 45 mins. Now Engine light is ON any ideas why?
      The cars still leaks oil after replacing the oil filter housing. I looks like the leak is on the front right side area, maybe is the gasket I have to look again. Any advice?

    18. #16
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      Replaced yesterday as per the manual above. I am not a car mechanic and it took about 3 hours for my friend and me to do it in his home garage. I can now realise how the design of Volvo is broken and overengenered

      We changed the engine oil as part of this process. We drained the oil first, of course and than replaced the part. Note, the oil filter comes with the housing. (I bought separetelly and now have a spare).

      The main issues with the job were the following:

      1. The airbox was difficulf to take out, too many attachments and wires coming to it. at the end, we disattached most of the cables coming to the airbox and moved it to the right a few inches. This was enough to just reach the housing top screw (the bottom ones are easily accessible from the bottom of the car) and take the oil housing out, but it was not easy as very little room was there.

      2. The smaller plastic hose coming to the housing (air hose?) fell apart - it was so fragile and a very poor quality. We hade to extend the most of it using a flexible fuel line - the best thing we had handy around.

      Before the replacement I made about 450km with the problem and the engine light on on the dashboard - but to get gid of the whistling sound and let some air into the engine, I pulled the dipstick out completelly, and put a metal wire dishwasher brush on the top. Did not loose any oil at at while driving.

      Bottom line - I found that Volvo a disappoiting car. A combination of poorly engineered parts that break (I have had 3 fault in 10 months of owing thr car - bushings, steering wheel lock module and this one, all these are infamously popular Volvo V50 faults), a 'helpful' Volvo stealership who change enourmous amount of money and are the only Volvo online account holder in this country in case you need fostware update, and the things seem to be more difficult to replace copared to say, BMW. Even for me, IT person having little expertise in any mechanical and auto related subjects.

    19. #17
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Correction on My statement about Breaking Universal : It is a Steep Angle thou - Universal Joint - ( There isn't much Tq. applied to those Bolts ) that said :
      Those Lower Ones Sure are easier to reach from Below . I Would Not Drive the Car Hard or to Long with Issue - as It could cause a Seal to Fail .
      Dip Stick must be Pulled to Avoid - having Seal Failure Issues - while getting Volvo Repaired .

      ( I believe this is a Sticky on Subject ) .
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    20. #18
      Junior Member Gizmo42's Avatar
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      Short extension and get down in there straight on works very well, thats what I did. Getting the wiring disconnected and factory air box moved over far enough is by far the worst part of the job. One thing to add, run the screws into the dip stick tube and wiring harness mounting holes before installing the new filter housing. They are not threaded and it is much easier to do while the new housing is still outside of the vehicle. Mine didnt have any wiring harness holders bolted to it (recall had been done previously) so I didnt have to bother with them.
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    21. #19
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      I performed this procedure this weekend, and this thread was a big help.

      I wanted to point out that in my case, the lower seal(s) between the filter housing and the block had failed. My car has about 95k on it now, and it's been seeping oil for at least six months. I'd initially suspected the filter seal itself, and when that didn't change anything I re-torqued the bolts on the filter housing with equally poor results. I noticed, too, that it appeared the car in the photos was experiencing seepage, so I wonder how common this is. Mine was leaking enough to mark the garage floor, and things were pretty nasty up under the housing.

      Once I removed the old housing, I stuffed bits of shop towel in the oil passages, and used a bit of emery paper and a rag soaked in Berryman's to clean the sealing surfaces. Got everything reassembled and promptly took the car on a ~300mi highway trip (it always leaked worse at highway speeds). I'm happy to report no more leaks!

      As an aside, the local Volvo dealer initially quoted me $200 for the assembly, but when I told them I'd order it cheaper online, they lowered the price to $165. Took me about 3 hours all told, including cleaning etc. Also, I found a 1/4" drive 10mm with extension to be pretty handy for the bolts underneath, with the car up on ramps.

    22. #20
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Are we sure there is no way to clean the inside of the collection box so we dont have to buy and expensive POS but instead some hoses and clamps?

    23. #21
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Might even be able to Fix it , Other have taken one apart and Welded in New Pcs. inside for a Permanent Type Fix - this was done
      to also get a Blow By Canister set up - Sure You could get a Used one and Dissect It . ( Anyone have a Bad one We can have You take it apart ? )
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
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    24. #22
      Junior Member Gizmo42's Avatar
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      Mine wasnt very dirty, certainly not plugged but it was blowing lots of oil out of the seals which were all intact. Diaphragm was also good. No idea why mine was doing that.
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    25. #23
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Well my concern came from oil leaking around the oil fill cap(I know if could be a seal as the cap is easily unscrewed) but me and a buddy took the cap offand covered it in a thick plastic. At idle the film showed vacuum but when rev'd it puffed out which to me seems like a serious pressure change. I just want to know this car inside and out so if I need to do this I know what's involved. Maybe the "catch box" is just find but the hoses on top are clogged up like a fat man's arteries... Might behoove me to invest in one of these:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0SoAjX2xwM

    26. #24
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Here a Canadian - DIY - or at least He's drinking Canadian Beer : Latest Info on Lost Bolts - LOL

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2IRq7NYsrc
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    27. #25
      Junior Member Blackbomber's Avatar
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      People love to blow removing the air box out of proportion. I think the people who had difficulty were trying to sneak it out the side. Just remove the two motor mount bolts, slide the engine back an inch, and it's out. No big deal, and one of the easier parts of the job.

    28. #26
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      So by that video's standard if I want to forge my internals I should just start filling it it tons of iron shavings! Forged internals here I come!

      Blackbomber- I always played as you in Super Bomberman! Airbox removal is Easy-bake Oven.

      If anyone does have an old one they replaced I would gladly pay for shipping to dissect the **** out of it!

      Found this thread from 2007 which shows a ton of photos: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...uld-I-do/page2

      *From this I can assume a single bad O-ring in any of these spots could cause leaks. I really don't see any reason why we couldn't clean and reuse these, just change out the rings and clear/inspect hoses, change if need be.
      Last edited by bgrove; 08-10-2013 at 08:04 AM.

    29. #27
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Yea, I had to Laugh , and Say ( Whatttttttttt ! ) as He says it all with a straight face - like a another day at - DIY Shop - Dropped some Bolts in the Motor . LOL

      MODS : should take the 2 Link and go through and take out all the Good Pictures and Info then make 1 Great Write Up from the 2 Links .

      Good Catch - On the this Link , and more Persons need to listen to their Automobiles , seems We have had a couple that were Way - Out of Warranty , and Done for Free !
      Also, We have had a few that had their Own Mechanic Fix it , and then sent Volvo the Bill, which they got Paid in Full !

      Furthermore - Everyone should clean out there Motor once in awhile , I simply run some
      Marvel Mystery Oil 3-6 Oz. - in the Oil , just before Changing - say 50-120 miles depending on How many Miles I have on the Oil or Condition of Oil .


      In Fact One Guy - it actually Cured the Issue . Read : ( Keep It -just- Clean It ) .

      My T5 sounds so Good .
      Last edited by EngTech; 08-10-2013 at 10:17 AM.
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    30. #28
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Yea I need to pick up some of that Magic, I am due for a change in a few weeks and would love to get things moving in the right direction. I'm interested to see what the back of the trap looks like(o-rings), hoses etc. Think I might make a weekend out of it, after running the Magic, drain the car, remove the whole trap assembly (assuming I can find an o-ring kit to replace) clean the back area if need be, and inspect/clean/ the hoses. Now about vacuum and positive pressure with the oil cap off (my method was very primitive), shouldn't it maintain vacuum at idle and rev? I don't have the dreaded noise but better to catch things early.

    31. #29
      Member m4gician's Avatar
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      There needs to be a tutorial on removing the air box which is really the key to this whole how-to. Without removing the air box this is a very tedious and tough repair depending on if everything is willing to move, not crack or break.

      You may actually have to lift the engine and remove the mount temporarily to get everything out and apart it's that involved. While not hard, there are a lot of steps. Once the airbox is out, I agree with volvoNB this is a very straight forward repair. However, if someone can, they should be a video or take more pictures on removing just the airbox to perform this repair.
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    32. #30
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by m4gician View Post
      There needs to be a tutorial on removing the air box which is really the key to this whole how-to. Without removing the air box this is a very tedious and tough repair depending on if everything is willing to move, not crack or break.

      You may actually have to lift the engine and remove the mount temporarily to get everything out and apart it's that involved. While not hard, there are a lot of steps. Once the airbox is out, I agree with volvoNB this is a very straight forward repair. However, if someone can, they should be a video or take more pictures on removing just the airbox to perform this repair.

      here's a nice video

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      Does the oil need to be drained?

      Hi There,
      Great guide. Just one small detail missing.

      Do you need to drain the oil? I'm guessing if the engine is cold, the oil is sitting down in the sump?

      So the only spillage will be what's in the filter? (as it normally is even when you drain the oil).

      I've just spent $150.00 on new oil 1000 km ago, I don't really want to do this again.

      What are your thoughts?

      Thanks for oyur help.

    34. #32
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      I guess it's not technically necessary. Make sure you get the oil warm & then screw open the filter cap. Most of the oil should then drain into the sump.
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      Quote Originally Posted by sslewis698 View Post
      I've just spent $150.00 on new oil 1000 km ago, I don't really want to do this again.
      I'd like to know what kind of oil costs $25 a liter?

    36. #34
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      ^Snake oil.
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    37. #35
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      Quote Originally Posted by atikovi View Post
      I'd like to know what kind of oil costs $25 a liter?
      I think he means that he paid $150 to get his oil changed at a shop/dealer?
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