How To: Replace Oil Filter Housing - Page 2
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    1. #36
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      Perfect description. Fixed within 2 hours.
      Pushed the airbox aside after detaching all the cables and tubes. By using the tools described it went real fast.
      Thanks

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    3. #37

    4. #38
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      @s40boy,

      I came across this forum+thread while attempting to help my non-car-savvy friend make sense of what a backyard mechanic was telling him about needing to replace his "oil filter housing". I submitted his car's VIN to a local Volvo dealer and it qualifies for the "EXTENDED WARRANTY 205 – PCV OIL TRAP AND VENTILATION".

      In that bulletin it states: "Coverage under this extended warranty is limited to the symptoms described in the customer letter for the PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose only."

      He did, in fact, experience the squealing noise that disappeared when the dipstick was removed, but I would like very much to read the "customer letter". Do you know where I could find/read it?

      Thanks!

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    6. #39
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      I have a 2005 S40 2.4i 5 speed with 235000 miles. Have the same issue with whistling. remove dip stick and goes away. Called dealer and they said it is not covered and would be $700 dollars to replace. I can tell the oil filter assembly has been replaced before. It has the new hoses, not the accordion type. I bought the car used a month ago. I just ordered the new oil filter assembly from fcpeuro. I plan to replace this weekend. Will let you know how it goes and take pictures.

    7. #40
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      Replaced the oil filter housing

      Took about 2.5 hours. All info in this thread helped a lot. No more whistling and check engine light gone. I disassembled the old housing and it had a lot of oil sludge. Not surprised that it was causing crankcase ventilation issue. There are a few small passages that could easily get blocked. The air side of the housing (round top) actually has a spring and diaphragm. Just bought this car, so not sure how religious they were with oil changes. Gonna use synthetic oil and ensure regular changes.
      Some notes from replacement:
      While doing the stuff to remove air box, I loosened the oil filter cap to allow the oil to drain back in sump. The difficult part was disconnecting the ECM cable bundle that is mounted under air box. There is a torx screw I removed and the bundle/connector has a piece that slides into a slot in the air box. removed torx screw and slid bundle forward to release from the slot in air box. Did not have to remove air box. was able to slide air box to side to access filter housing. After loosening oil filter housing bolts, some oil did drain out. I had a catch container ready.

    8. #41
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      Lightbulb

      I'm about to do this job next week, ordered the part today. I'll give a little update once done.
      FYI, for my engine(B5244S5) i need the improved oil filter housing(#31338685, €220,- at Volvo) and elbow hose(#8653344, €17,50). Doing it myself will save about 2,5 hrs of labour at the Volvo garage, which tends to be around €75,- per hour
      Volvo V50 2.4 aut. ('05)

    9. #42
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      Did the replacement yesterday and it all worked out fine, thanks to all the advice in this thread.
      The airbox was a pain in the ****, but I managed to get the oil filter housing out by moving the box about 5 cm to the drivers side.
      Still, room to work was very limited, and a couple of bolts really took a bit of puzzling to get to.
      I used the same tools as the topic starter, but I also had a couple of 8MM bolts securing wiring.
      I had to remove the thick wire running to the alternator(?) to get the filter house out, it was right in the way.
      It was my first serious job on a car and took me about 3,5 hours (but I preferred accuracy over speed)


      a couple of pictures of my engine:

      -

      -

      -

      -

      -
      Volvo V50 2.4 aut. ('05)

    10. #43
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      Ok, so I'm stumped. I just got done this job, went flawlessly. at 77K miles but now over the 10-year limit. Replaced trap and hose. No major issues. Went for a test drive and slowed at a light and the engine died. Started right up after. So, I get free top-offs at the place I get oil changed at so I went there and had them top the oil and such. Off to the auto shop to check codes. I'm now getting P2420 code. Say WHAT?! Nothing on the web, that I could reliably find, about this code. Any thoughts?

    11. #44
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      After some digging it seems to be unrelated to the PCV replacement. PCV error code was hiding this one. Looks like I need an ECM software update... missed another extended warranty item... not my week for this car.

    12. #45
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      It seems I've the same problem... but before I get it changed I was wondering if the winning problem caused by a clogged PCV can also be caused by a "missed" changed oil filter (the filter inside the PCV oil housing): if the filter was not changed on last oil change...
      thanks to all.

    13. #46
      Junior Member kerc's Avatar
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      Okay guys, so I'm an okay mechanic; I have replaced clutches, pads & rotors, radiators, and of course I'm familiar with the basics. For some reason this fix has me a bit freaked out. I should be able to handle this considering my previous experiences, right?

    14. #47
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      Quote Originally Posted by kerc View Post
      Okay guys, so I'm an okay mechanic; I have replaced clutches, pads & rotors, radiators, and of course I'm familiar with the basics. For some reason this fix has me a bit freaked out. I should be able to handle this considering my previous experiences, right?
      YES

      It seems I've the same problem... but before I get it changed I was wondering if the winning problem caused by a clogged PCV can also be caused by a "missed" changed oil filter (the filter inside the PCV oil housing): if the filter was not changed on last oil change...
      thanks to all.
      Very Doubtful.
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    15. #48
      Junior Member kerc's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      YES
      Awesomesauce. This will be my next weekend project!

    16. #49
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      Quote Originally Posted by kerc View Post
      Awesomesauce. This will be my next weekend project!
      In case you haven't seen it... How To
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    17. #50
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      Very Doubtful.[/QUOTE]

      Thanks

    18. #51
      Junior Member tilley's Avatar
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      Just did this DIY. A couple of notes:
      -As mentioned somewhere above, the two bolts holding the wiring harness bracket have 8mm heads, so an 8mm socket should be part of the tool set.
      -I used an M6-1.0 thread tap for the 3 holes (for the two 8mm head bolts and the one 10mm head bolt for the dipstick tube attachment point - all same threads). The bolts look like self-tapping type, but alot easier to re-install if you pre-thread the holes.
      -Also had the thick cable going to the alternator attached to that hole on the left side of the housing. Was held in with a plastic push-pin which broke when I forced it out. A tie-wrap around the cable and through the hole could be a substitute for the push-pin, if you think you need it.
      -The green o-ring for the dipstick tube stayed in the hole after pulling out the dipstick tube. Tried using a thin screwdriver to slide it out....didn't work, thought I was going to lose the o-ring into the oil pan since it went even deeper into the hole. I managed to turn it sideways in the hole and used a long thin 3 pronged pickup tool to grab it and pull it out. That was the most frightening part of the whole job!

      Thanks for the write-up.
      2005 S40 T5 AWD M6

    19. #52
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      Ya, big point of discussion here - the bolt bosses are not threaded. Repeat, NOT THREADED. You have to either self-tap using the bolts supplied or cut the threads with a tap/die kit. When I installed my new housing, I didn't know that the bosses weren't threaded. So, I installed it and couldn't figure out why the dipstick bolts wouldn't thread in until I finally gave up and pulled the new housing off. I then discovered the above and used a tap/die set to cut new threads, and installed again. So if you know beforehand, you'll be in much better shape.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    20. #53
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      I'm having excessive oil consumption issues. Could this help? My car is a 2011 s40 T5 Does the recall apply?

    21. #54
      Quote Originally Posted by Elvis_Presley View Post
      I'm having excessive oil consumption issues. Could this help? My car is a 2011 s40 T5 Does the recall apply?
      You will need to call your local dealership with the VIN to determine if you qualify, but considering it's not 2021 and your car may not be over the 120,000mi limit, you might be good to go here.

      Excessive oil consumption is a byproduct of a few things and none are easily determinable. However, clogging of the PCV can cause a excess of pressure to build up in the crankcase and prevent the suction effect, allowing oil to remain in the combustion chamber and being burned off. It is an option, and considering the others aren't realistic, as longas you've changed the oil regularly, I doubt it's anything internally.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
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    22. #55
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      Thanks VolvoNB! Great write up as many have said. I've just had the dealer tell me I need to replace this part on my 2011 V50 and even though I bought the extended warranty, they're saying it's not covered. As you say, It's about a $500, (actually looking like $550) repair.
      My car's only got 73,000 miles on it. Dealer said the oil leaking is very slight at this point but if the oil filter housing fails I'll be in for a very expensive repair. I may try the DIY from your great write up. Wondering if you 2005 and my 2011 are same motor/generation for this repair.
      '62 122S 4dr #73 Mist Green originally-SOLD
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    23. #56
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      The hose from the valve cover to the PCV is leaking on my car (the old style with the ribbed section). I'm going to replace it but would like to replace the filter housing at the same time. No squealing yet, but I have a bad feeling about it and the crankcase vacuum at idle seems a bit high to me.

      Just trying to figure out exactly what I need. I had the work done under the extended warranty for my 2007, but it's too late for my 'new' 2006. From the warranty replacement invoice, they used the following parts:

      31338685 (oil filter housing)
      8670008 (hose)
      2 x 976561 (hose clamp)
      3 x 983750 (cable tie)
      2 x 983883 (cable tie)
      30637865 (sealing ring)

      Can anyone confirm if that's everything I'd need?
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
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    24. #57
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      Follow your numbers through HERE.

      Some of your numbers don't match up exactly. I'm almost certain the seals to the block come with a new housing. FCP shows that they do in it's picture. You could buy the "kit" but it looks like piecemeal is cheaper. Housing, hose, clamp, wire tie & done.
      Last edited by pczeilon; 05-04-2018 at 05:47 PM.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    25. #58
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Thank you!
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    26. #59
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      I replaced my oil filter housing / PCV today. The old one was absolutely caked in sludge on the outside, however all of the inner workings, including the passageways in the engine block were very clean with almost no buildup at all. The hose going from the head to the housing was broken. 160,000 km, 100,000 miles.

      After installation the crankcase vacuum at idle increased substantially from what I already thought was a fairly strong vacuum. No kinks in any hoses. I've read a few reports of this happening to people but haven't seen a definitive report as to whether it's normal or not. I've also read that a very slight vacuum is a sign of health. When I sealed the oil fill port with my palm and then removed it quickly, the engine would stumble a bit, lose revs, and then quickly return to a steady idle. Doesn't seem ideal to me...

      Flushed the engine with LiquiMoly Engine Flush just before removing the old housing, and switched to Castrol Edge 0w40 (the new German Castrol) from 5w30 and the engine feels very happy.
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
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    27. #60
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      My housing was also covered in oil from outside. I've checked the membrane- it was in one piece, no cracks. It was the seal between metal housing and plastic top cap that caused the leak. Cleaned, sealed the connection with liquid seal. No leaks since then.

    28. #61
      Junior Member Schumi554's Avatar
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      Finally replaced the oil filter housing at 122K+ on the odometer. It cost me an estimated 540 with parts and labor. This part has the dreaded built in oil trap, but the whole thing had to be swapped out. Prior to last weekend, it was diagnosed to cause my air leak between MAF and throttle body. It was the main culprit of my rough idle, reduced engine performance, and stalling. After two years of trying to think it was the hose between the turbocharger and the intercooler hardpipe, the mechanic was fortunate to pinpoint this problematic part.

      Had it taken to the DMV and it passed inspection, no CEL. In NJ, a CEL will result in a REJECTED inspection sticker.

      On a side note related to this, the mechanic wanted $1100+ for the throttle body while it was at the shop. I was like, I'll have it checked out at the dealer. Thank goodness I was lucky not to do the throttle body yet.

    29. #62
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      Bringing this one up again. So, this car has been a total champ EXCEPT for this issue. Had the CEL erratically come on then go off over the past couple of years. Got emissions done when it was off. Finally bit the bullet at took it to my local shop and just said to fix the CEL no matter what the cost. They pulled codes and said the PCV usually causes this issue. Being only 5 years into this OCV and only about 50K miles on it I thought, sure so I had this done by my local shop AGAIN. Then two weeks later CEL comes on again with the same codes.

      Is anyone aware of an underlying issue that would cause this to fail within two weeks of a PCV replacement? The odd thing is that I have NEVER heard the odd squeal everyone talks about when this item fails.

    30. #63
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      Quote Originally Posted by Willsonman View Post
      Bringing this one up again. So, this car has been a total champ EXCEPT for this issue. Had the CEL erratically come on then go off over the past couple of years. Got emissions done when it was off. Finally bit the bullet at took it to my local shop and just said to fix the CEL no matter what the cost. They pulled codes and said the PCV usually causes this issue. Being only 5 years into this OCV and only about 50K miles on it I thought, sure so I had this done by my local shop AGAIN. Then two weeks later CEL comes on again with the same codes.

      Is anyone aware of an underlying issue that would cause this to fail within two weeks of a PCV replacement? The odd thing is that I have NEVER heard the odd squeal everyone talks about when this item fails.
      What are the codes? Is your Indy a Volvo specialist who uses VIDA or are the codes generic? Might be something as simple as a bad PTC resistor, which you can just unplug and drive without it. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...istor-location Mine went bad on my ‘13 C70 last fall and threw all sorts of codes. See pic of codes in first post here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-of-ECM-Codes=.

      BD


      '06 S40 M66 T5 FWD, '08 C70 M66 T5 Premier Plus, '11 XC90 V8 AWD, '13 C70 T5 Platinum P* ('94 854T, '05 S60 2.5T FWD, & '04 XC90 2.5T AWD R.I.P.)
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    31. #64
      So I tried replacing the diaphragm today - I have a newer oil filter housing (about 50,000mi old, installed in 2016), so the method is not the same as the noted ones here. Also - I have the rubber tube going up the top. It was covered in a tiny amount of sludge next to the diaphragm, same as the plastic tube under the diaphragm, but nothing excessive.

      That being said I got the cap off, and the diaphragm is the same as the aftermarket replacement, so there's not much of a quality difference there. I noticed that my howl was completely gone on my hot restart, however, there still is a TON of suction in the oil filler cap and oil dipstick - much more than normal.

      Is there an internal component of this unit that is NOT the diaphragm that can fail and cause excessive vacuum on these things? Or am I overthinking it and PCV Failure is excessive positive pressure, and negative pressure is a good thing?
      Last edited by avenger09123; 06-19-2019 at 11:46 PM.
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    32. #65
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      So I tried replacing the diaphragm today - I have a newer oil filter housing (about 50,000mi old, installed in 2016), so the method is not the same as the noted ones here. Also - I have the rubber tube going up the top. It was covered in a tiny amount of sludge next to the diaphragm, same as the plastic tube under the diaphragm, but nothing excessive.

      That being said I got the cap off, and the diaphragm is the same as the aftermarket replacement, so there's not much of a quality difference there. I noticed that my howl was completely gone on my hot restart, however, there still is a TON of suction in the oil filler cap and oil dipstick - much more than normal.

      Is there an internal component of this unit that is NOT the diaphragm that can fail and cause excessive vacuum on these things? Or am I overthinking it and PCV Failure is excessive positive pressure, and negative pressure is a good thing?
      how did you replace just the diaphragm? did you have to remove the air box?
      2006 Volvo S40 2.4i | 93,000 miles

    33. #66
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      Quote Originally Posted by sorcerer View Post
      how did you replace just the diaphragm? did you have to remove the air box?
      Not necessarily. Here’s a video (guy has a D5 engine but the process is the same): https://youtu.be/1O4r1ftgJaQ

      BD


      2006 S40 T5 M66 FWD, 2008 C70 Premium Plus M66, 2011 XC90 V8, 2013 C70 Platinum P* (1994 854T FWD, 2005 S60 2.5T FWD, & 2004 XC90 2.5T AWD RIP)

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    34. #67
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      Has anybody tried just doing this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O4r...FE7DccijgqRioE

    35. #68
      Junior Member Jirv0id's Avatar
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      I have a diaphragm ready to swap when mine does again. Just carefully pry off the top of the PCV and replace the rubber then close it back up.
      2007 V50 T5 AWD M66 ~ Custom machined weighted shiftknob powdercoated wrinkle polstarblue, Custom pod filter intake, Muffler delete, 18" Pegasus IPD Reps, EBC redstuff pads, EBC blank rotors.

    36. #69
      Just remember it's like a soda bottle - it's a cap that snaps on and meets a lip - while the cap on the soda bottle doesnt go all the way down to the lip on it (more like a collar maybe?) the PCV housing, the cap sits flush with the lip, that's where you need to separate it, not under the edge of the bottom lip. I snapped a piece of mine off when I did it, making it real clear to do next time, but still - smarter and less force would have been nice.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
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    37. #70
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      I'm curious if the oil filter housing should be changed as a preventative measure if the vehicle already has the new style housing and hose? My 2006 had 109k miles when I bought it and now it's approaching 230k miles but doesn't currently show any symptoms of a PCV failure. I'm planning on installing a new upper inlet plenum which will necessitate removal of the airbox and I'm looking at what else I should do while I have it out. Should I replace the whole oil filter housing or perhaps just remove, clean and inspect it, and if I do the later will I need a bunch of gaskets and o-rings to reinstall the housing? I should mention I'm experiencing a decline in mpg over the last 6-7 months that persists despite replacement of plugs, TCV, MAP, MAF, O2 sensors, and coils. I saw in a post by Jirv0id in another thread that mileage went down significantly right before his PCV failed. On a separate note, I already have a new thermostat housing and coolant temperature sensor ready to be installed since as far as I know they have never been changed.

      As with many items on these cars I'm sure Volvo OEM is best but does anyone have experience with any aftermarket housings? I see a bunch of brands listed on Amazon and eBay.
      2010 XC70 T6 148k; 2006 S40 T5 AWD M66 205k; 2004 XC70 275k; 1998 V70 288k (sold); 1970 Dodge Super Bee 383 Magnum 122k

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