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What did you do to your car today?

3M views 13K replies 766 participants last post by  hq_ 
#1 ·
So we have this thread over @ Volvospeed and it's pretty cool.

What did you do today?

Installed brackets in my trunk to keep my tool kit from moving around, and bungie cords on the side cubbie to keep my cleaning stuff in place.

 
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#12,510 · (Edited)

Welded up a new flex pipe (vibrant performance). And put in a new section where the cat was. Used v-bands as ill likely swap in the car and different tune if needed. Made a 200 cell vibrant racing cat section to swap in when needed.

Wrong forum . Apologies

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#12,513 ·
Hit it with some penetrating oil and let it sit for half hour and then hit it again right before you go to wrenching.

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#12,515 ·
The 22 mm short, claw type one. Can't get any leverage to turn out sensor, too many things like coolant lines in way somewhat. Thinking of removing battery and box and using long extensions to bring ratchet out for more room and leverage. Anyone done this successfully and does cleaning help it?
 
#12,517 ·
Lube it then tap it......then get a hold of it and give it a tug


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#12,518 ·
#12,519 ·
Sourced a new bumper from junkyard for $30. Not a single scratch. Finished the buff. Still need to put back the rest but here you are. Doesn't even have license plate holes drilled. Awesome


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#12,521 ·
dang those are pretty cool - get some silicone lugnut covers on there to keep the dirt/water out and that'd be pretty dope.
 
#12,527 ·
Got the elevate turbo intake pipe and intake installed (yes I know stock air box is best option etc etc hot air intake intake in engine bay bad etc). Way more turbo noise and intake noise which was my only goal really. Anyway, When I initially deleted my exhaust resonator it modified the resonant frequency of the car just enough that the bass response of the premium audio system changed and I lost a little bit of sub bass and rounding out warmth. Fast forward today, the intake system changed the resonant frequency of the car again, but it put it back to almost exactly the same as it was stock, so I’m very happy. All the sub bass has returned.
 
#12,529 ·
Lol- Im going to give that a shot in reverse FWD to AWD...cross your fingers.....

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#12,531 · (Edited)
Finished overhauling the rear suspension on my Mazda Focus T5...Replaced the shocks two years ago but I should have done a lot more. Bump stops were toast, bushings were starting to rot. Replaced the straight arms, camber arms, and bump stops two weeks ago, tore apart the lower control arms last weekend, then found out I needed new springs...
https://imgur.com/xfYUa8O.jpg

After $140 for a set of OEM springs and some rubber spring seats, now pretty much everything is shiny and new, including all the nuts and bolts. I've heard the horror stories, but none of my bolts were so badly seized that a punch and a mallet couldn't handle it. Even so, I was liberal with the anti-seize when I reassembled.
https://imgur.com/b0yG4vT.jpg

Big thanks to avenger09123 for taking the first plunge on those Dorman lower control arms. With just a drill and a file, you can remove the extra piece of metal and paint over it for under 1/4 of the genuine part cost. About $440 to refresh the entire rear-end, minus shocks. Wonder when I'll decide I'm spending too much on my car :rolleyes:
 
#12,532 ·
I gotta give it to dorman - their part was $65 or so, and only offset toe about 0.05 degrees.
 
#12,533 ·
Paid $40 each for mine. I marked where my toe in/camber bolts were placed before I removed the old ones. Sorta-kinda lined up the bolts when I put everything back together. Even with new springs and new arms, camber alignment didn't move and my toe was only off by 0.1 - 0.2 deg on each side.

Hopefully the Dorman rubber lasts as long as the OEM parts, definitely don't want to replace those arms again any time soon...
 
#12,535 ·
A few months ago on here I remember some discussion about how bad the Chinese E-Focus mounts are. And of course I'd been running a Chinese E-Focus mount based on other advice also from this forum.

Over the years I had a 12mph clunk the first time out of park which took way too long to diagnose as ABS test + thrashed motor mounts. When both mounts are bad it's very loud and vibrates the pedals. Last winter I'd started to notice a minor clunk and pedal vibration when I would back out of a parking space and go left. But the sound and vibration got worse and started happening when I'd go right as well I remembered the convo about the cheapo mounts (Motorking I think it is), that my problem is related to shifting into reverse, and saw the Hutchinson is only $42 dollars and figured why not. Clunk gone on my tests. We'll see how it reacts on my errands tomorrow. It only takes a few minutes to change out the torque mount, frankly I think putting the splash guard back on is the worst part of any under the car job.

I didn't think the old mount looked bad. A little creasing in the rubbed but not cracked.
 
#12,537 · (Edited)
In today’s episode of Cluster Craziness, I found an actual blue R design cluster (thanks V50toS40) and got a good deal on it. My clock had previously vanished when I first upgraded clusters to the facelift from the pre facelift cluster. I install this new cluster, which is supposedly the same software and design as the cluster I removed, and,

My clock magically came back.

Set to the correct time.

But I can’t change it.

Hopefully VIDA will allow me to change it. I am confident it will since there’s a setting to do that.
 
#12,540 ·
Took a portrait with my family.


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