S60 Clutch Replacement How-To?
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    1. #1
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      S60 Clutch Replacement Questions

      Greetings fellow Volvo nuts!

      I came upon Swedespeed while looking for information on a problem with my S60 (was previously a poster at turbobricks and swedishbricks).

      I know this is my first post, but was hoping I could prevail upon the knowledgeable here for some help!

      I recently purchased a 2001 S60 T-5 with about 140k on it. 5k in, my slave cylinder is ... completely shot. I've searched around here, seen the pictures of the seal that goes, etc.

      My questions:

      1. Do I have to replace the clutch? There's a clutch kit available for $400-ish. I'm assuming this falls into the "since you're in there and there's nearly 150k on the car YEAH do it now" category.

      2. Has anyone done this that could provide some guidance? I've seen a few threads on here discussing it, and it seems that some members have done it. I'm not afraid of tackling it (my friends and I have done some pretty substantial repairs on our Volvos and BMW's over the past few years) if it doesn't actually require special tools (looks like I could fab MOST of what I need with a bandsaw and some wood) or whatnot.

      3. Is what comes in the clutch kit enough? Looks like it includes the slave cylinder, which precludes needing to replace that. The Master cylinder seems ok, and is pretty cheap if I need to replace it later.

      I'm hoping to tackle this during the upcoming week. Any insight is much appreciated.


      Modified by Gurm at 12:29 PM 9-7-2009


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    3. #2
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      I have this very problem with mine right now too(see thread a couple down from this one). might be something useful in the thread..https://forums.swedespeed.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=125023

      It might require a special tool to preset/preload the self adjusting pressure plate. I have a feeling the Rs might be the only ones with these, however, because the prices for the SPEC replacement on an 01+ m56 and a m66 clutch/pressure plate has a $200 difference. The volvo tool is in the neighborhood of $400 i want to say. THIS is still up in the air; very uncertain.

      Right now i am trying to figure out how/what i would use for a single mass conversion (less weight, cheaper parts, more direct clutch feel)

      Yes, if the clutch gets brake fluid on it you will need a new clutch due to contamination. The brake fluid will most likely create hot spots on the flywheel as well, so it will need to be replaced or resurfaced.

      While you are in there it would probably be a good idea to replace the rear main seal as well.

      How often are you having to refill the master cylinder?

      The clutch kit at most probably only comes with the throwout bearing(not sure if it is a separate piece on internal slave setups or not), clutch disk and pressure plate. Most likely only the disk and PP.

      Let us know how it goes and i would greatly appreciate as many pics as you would take because i have to do this during my thanksgiving break from school.

      Be happy you got 150k out of yours.. mine only has 70k miles...

      2003 S60 T5M - bilstein sport/eibach, sways, exhaust, mini h1 projectors, and other minor touches

    4. #3
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      Re: (Impulse922)

      Quote, originally posted by Impulse922 »
      I have this very problem with mine right now too(see thread a couple down from this one). might be something useful in the thread..https://forums.swedespeed.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=125023

      I'll check out that thread and get back to here.

      Quote »
      It might require a special tool to preset/preload the self adjusting pressure plate. I have a feeling the Rs might be the only ones with these, however, because the prices for the SPEC replacement on an 01+ m56 and a m66 clutch/pressure plate has a $200 difference. The volvo tool is in the neighborhood of $400 i want to say. THIS is still up in the air; very uncertain.

      Yeah, the Rhino and Sachs kits for the T-5 (specifically say '01 T-5) are around $400, so I'm thinking you've got yourself a "special" plate. (I use the term loosely, this is Volvo after all!)

      Quote »
      Right now i am trying to figure out how/what i would use for a single mass conversion (less weight, cheaper parts, more direct clutch feel)

      That would be awesome, but right now my wife is leaning on me to "just get the car running, I'm tired of driving you to work"!

      Quote »
      Yes, if the clutch gets brake fluid on it you will need a new clutch due to contamination. The brake fluid will most likely create hot spots on the flywheel as well, so it will need to be replaced or resurfaced.

      Ahh yes. Somehow that had slipped my mind but of course you're right! And the odds of getting the leaking part off without contamination are slim. Plus if it's the original clutch... then it's got 145k on it and it's time anyway.

      Quote »
      While you are in there it would probably be a good idea to replace the rear main seal as well.

      Thanks! I'll add that to the list. It looks to be a $5 part for OEM and $25 for aftermarket overkill, so... not a big deal in comparison to the potential labor costs on this.

      Quote »
      How often are you having to refill the master cylinder?

      Haha. That was LAST week. This week it just squirts fluid on the ground and doesn't actually move the clutch. We had to drive without the clutch to get it to my pal's garage! (Stop lights were NOT our friends...)

      Quote »
      The clutch kit at most probably only comes with the throwout bearing(not sure if it is a separate piece on internal slave setups or not), clutch disk and pressure plate. Most likely only the disk and PP.

      Yeah I'm going with the one that is specifically for the T-5, looks like it has throwout bearing, clutch disk, pressure plate, and slave cylinder.

      Quote »
      Let us know how it goes and i would greatly appreciate as many pics as you would take because i have to do this during my thanksgiving break from school.

      If it makes it that far! Mine went from "have to pull up on the clutch once in a while and keep the brake fluid topped up" to "won't disengage the clutch at all" literally overnight.

      Quote »
      Be happy you got 150k out of yours.. mine only has 70k miles...

      That's what I'm finding out. I got a great deal on the car ($2000 under book) so I can't complain too much, but still not happy about maybe having to take this to the local Euro repair place if this job goes beyond us.

      Right now my wife is being all "you fell in love with the way the car drives and feels and forgot to do your research before you brought it home". *sigh*


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    6. #4
      Member StarmanDXE's Avatar
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      Call up Darrell Waltrip Volvo and they can get you set up with all of the parts you need. Great prices, too! I think my new clutch/pressure plate from them was like $250~$300. (It's been a while...)

      Also, when you're replacing the slave cylinder, I guess there's a check valve connected directly to the slave cylinder which is between that and the master cylinder. People have suggested replacing this as it might have something to do with the failures.

      As far as the clutch goes, most people getting it done with their slave cylinder find it has lots of life left. Regardless, still a good idea to do it. But, you might not need to resurface the flywheel. (Although, probably still a good idea to do...)

      Good luck if you tackle it yourself! Pretty hefty job.

      Current: 2014 S60 T5 White
      Previous: 2010 S40 2.4i Silver | 2002 S60 T5M Gray | 1993 850 GLT Red

    7. #5
      Member Bender's Avatar
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      clutch MUST be replaced if it got fluid on it.
      Gone and Missed: 2002 S60 T5 Manual, 1993 240 Classic
      Gone and Not Missed: 2001 S60 2.4t Auto

      www.datforumdoe.com

    8. #6
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      Re: (StarmanDXE)

      Quote, originally posted by StarmanDXE »

      As far as the clutch goes, most people getting it done with their slave cylinder find it has lots of life left. Regardless, still a good idea to do it. But, you might not need to resurface the flywheel. (Although, probably still a good idea to do...)

      Good luck if you tackle it yourself! Pretty hefty job.

      brake fluid doesn't make hot spots like engine oil?


      did you DIY?

      2003 S60 T5M - bilstein sport/eibach, sways, exhaust, mini h1 projectors, and other minor touches

    9. #7
      Member StarmanDXE's Avatar
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      Re: (Impulse922)

      Quote, originally posted by Impulse922 »
      brake fluid doesn't make hot spots like engine oil?

      Seems it does. But, was trying to say, "replace the clutch, but maybe you don't need to resurface the flywheel." Did I misunderstand? Are the hot-spots on the clutch or the flywheel?


      Quote, originally posted by Impulse922 »
      did you DIY?

      Nope...
      Current: 2014 S60 T5 White
      Previous: 2010 S40 2.4i Silver | 2002 S60 T5M Gray | 1993 850 GLT Red

    10. #8
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      Only 135K miles.?? Just broken in. My S-60 5 spd is at 165k, still does great... (Thanks, IPD). Have to replace the engine, wife was driving it, the water pump lunched itself, lost the timing belt and "Piston Meets Valve". Found a good engine and am in the process of replacing it. Hope to get more miles out of it than I did my EuroSpec 740 Turbo (345K) or my race 123GT (450K miles). I will also be replacing my clutch as soon as I get time and help to get the old engine out. Hmmmmm....white block rebuild with some extra power....hmmm....

      And, yes, replace the clutch and the rear seal at that time. It will save you much cursing later....(don't ask me how I know.... :-) )

      Derswede
      Last edited by Derswede; 07-29-2015 at 08:55 PM.

    11. #9
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      Replace all 3 transmission seals for sure, and possibly get your halfshafts rebuilt if you want to be in and out and not go back in for 100k miles.

      This is pretty much the only special tool you need: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html If you use this you won't even have to drain coolant if you don't want to. You'll be unbolting the steering rack and just using some string or wire to hang it while you drop the subframe out from under the car.

      You'll need a triple square bit for the flywheel bolts, available at any auto parts store or online: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-60750-Po.../dp/B0002NYC0Y

      An angle torque gauge if you don't have one will be useful, all the torque specs are in angles now.

      Otherwise it's straight forward like any other car. The transmissions are only around 80-90lb so not too hard to wrangle up in place.


      And if you're going to mod this car at all, now is the time to install a quaife LSD (or any other brand you want). The good news is it only takes about 30 minutes to crack the tranny and drop it in. The bad news is it costs over $1000 just for the part.

      Since the subframe will be out it's a good time to look at an upgraded sway bar and/or replacing the subframe bushings. Lots of guys replace with solid plastic for tighter handling at the expense of slightly more road noise.
      Last edited by LloydDobler; 07-30-2015 at 10:53 AM.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70R M66 - Sonic Blue/Nordkap, 2.4 T5 motor, Snabb intake & intercooler, IPD oval exhaust, stock turbo and tune (for now).
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

    12. #10
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      Does anyone know if the flywheel to crank bolts are one time use? Meaning do you have to use new bolts when replacing the flywheel.

    13. #11
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      They are torque to yield so Volvo says you should replace them every time. Total cost when I did it was $17. Compared to the damage that a flywheel can do when it lets go at 6000 RPM it's a cheap safety measure.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70R M66 - Sonic Blue/Nordkap, 2.4 T5 motor, Snabb intake & intercooler, IPD oval exhaust, stock turbo and tune (for now).
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

    14. #12
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      I replaced my clutch. It wasn't too bad. The new Volvo pressure plate will come pre-loaded, and will set itself as soon as you press the cutch. Definitely do the rear main seal and replace the flywheel bolts as others have stated.

      Also when you bleed the clutch make sure the brake reservoir is filled to the correct level, or the clutch won't bleed and you'll be there all day
      2002 S60 T5M
      235K miles
      Black Sapphire Metallic

    15. #13
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      Thanks for the info on the bolts. Just wanted to make sure before I got into the clutch job.

    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by LloydDobler View Post
      Replace all 3 transmission seals for sure, and possibly get your halfshafts rebuilt if you want to be in and out and not go back in for 100k miles.

      This is pretty much the only special tool you need: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html If you use this you won't even have to drain coolant if you don't want to. You'll be unbolting the steering rack and just using some string or wire to hang it while you drop the subframe out from under the car.

      You'll need a triple square bit for the flywheel bolts, available at any auto parts store or online: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-60750-Po.../dp/B0002NYC0Y

      An angle torque gauge if you don't have one will be useful, all the torque specs are in angles now.

      Otherwise it's straight forward like any other car. The transmissions are only around 80-90lb so not too hard to wrangle up in place.


      And if you're going to mod this car at all, now is the time to install a quaife LSD (or any other brand you want). The good news is it only takes about 30 minutes to crack the tranny and drop it in. The bad news is it costs over $1000 just for the part.

      Since the subframe will be out it's a good time to look at an upgraded sway bar and/or replacing the subframe bushings. Lots of guys replace with solid plastic for tighter handling at the expense of slightly more road noise.
      Lots of tutorials on changing an AWD transmission here, but almost nothing on FWD. Does the turbo have to come off, or does the exhaust have to be disconnected? Does the engine/transmission have to be angled, e.g. transmission end lowered, to clear the body?

    17. #15
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      If you are pulling the transmission you do not need to remove turbo. You will need remove the exhaust hangers in the front and cross members. Remove cv axles, support engine from top, disconnect steering shaft and motor mounts, remove subframe bolts on transmission side, loose subframe bolts on engine side. Disconnect various components in engine bay, lower engine trans, and wrestle trans out. This is the high level trans removal. Glück

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