Can't remove camshaft rotor bolt. Help?
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    1. #1
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Can't remove camshaft rotor bolt. Help?

      I can't get this bolt off from the left side of the engine for the front camshaft.

      It is starting to strip the bolt now! Why won't it just come out? Am I missing something...

      I need to take it off to put in the camshaft locking tool.




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      2005 S40 2.4i

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    3. #2
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      I've never had to do this nor have I ever used a camshaft locking tool, however isn't all you need to do is connect it to the cam pulleys? Why would you need to remove this bolt?

      2005 S40 T5 FWD
      2004 Kawasaki Z1000

    4. #3
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by benrpd View Post
      I've never had to do this nor have I ever used a camshaft locking tool, however isn't all you need to do is connect it to the cam pulleys? Why would you need to remove this bolt?

      To replace the camshaft seals you have to remove the camshaft sprockets. So the gears have to come off and to keep their position you need the tool.

      If you're doing the Timing Belt, then that tool works as a safety precaution to not have them move.


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      2005 S40 2.4i

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    6. #4
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Very common issue. A Hand Impact is your friend. Order a replacement bolt now. Volvo Part: 987959
      Last edited by pczeilon; 07-10-2017 at 08:17 AM.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    7. #5
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Be sure you are using a high quality T30 bit, as well. I did not need an impact, but it did take a careful, square arc with a 1/4" ratchet.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
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    8. #6
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      It ended up just mushrooming. I had to put it all back together and postpone the camshaft replacement.

      What are the options to get it out now? I barely tried to turn it and it just broke apart. I couldn't believe how fragile the bolt was!


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      2005 S40 2.4i

    9. #7
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Sorry to resurrect this, but I'm planning on attempting this again. However, I cannot find the stripped T30 torx bolt on any part diagram.

      Does anyone have a PN or spec on the bolt? I'd like to have one on hand.

      Thanks!
      2005 S40 2.4i

    10. #8
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Does anyone have a PN or spec on the bolt? I'd like to have one on hand.

      Thanks!
      Six point socket screw
      Volvo Part: 987959
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    11. #9
      And don't use a crappy torx bit!
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    12. #10
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Thanks PCZ! And oh, don't worry. That crappy torx bit is long gone now.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    13. #11
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      So weird thing happened to me the other day regarding this bolt - it backed itself out and popped the cam pickup (?) off and the cam plug out. At the time I didn't know this. What I got was a cam position sensor CEL - didn't think anything of it because I was in the middle of installing new windows at my house - and then I started to get billows of smoke rolling out from under the car. THAT made me open up the hood and I noticed the above + an oil slick following me. When I checked the oil level, I lost about 4-5 quarts in about 10 minutes of driving. I found the cam pickup, bolt, and the cam plug nestled next to my MAF and air intake pipe. When I looked inside the cam journal, there seemed to be a little chunk of the cam (?) still left in the journal and some gouges in the bolt head. So what I think happened was the bolt wasn't tightened properly when the PO's mechanic reinstalled the head, it came loose, the cam pickup backed itself out to a point where the teeth didn't engage the end of the cam that well, took a chunk out, and finally popped the cam plug allowing oil to spew out of the backside of the cam journal. Enter danger zone.

      I reinstalled, and made sure it was tight (this time) but I started to get a feeling that it could come loose again. So last week I pulled the plug and tried to remove the bolt to put a little loctite on the threads. I couldn't get the bolt out without destorying the bolt's threads - which means it's tight, and I left it alone.
      Last edited by mercdude; 07-10-2017 at 11:19 AM.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    14. #12
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      I have broken several T-30 bits (Snap On, Matco, Cornwell, etc...) on these and stripped out a few heads as well. I have a note in my drill bit index for the perfect size to drill off the head and then the threaded shaft comes right out of the camshaft.
      2007 S40 T5

    15. #13
      Quote Originally Posted by qaz996 View Post
      I have broken several T-30 bits (Snap On, Matco, Cornwell, etc...) on these and stripped out a few heads as well. I have a note in my drill bit index for the perfect size to drill off the head and then the threaded shaft comes right out of the camshaft.
      The T55s on the front end are even tougher!
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    16. #14
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      The T55's on the front are torqued a lot more, but they also don't strip out like the T30's on the rear.
      2007 S40 T5

    17. #15
      Junior Member kampman's Avatar
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      I stripped that same fastener while replacing the timing belt in my V50 recently - a previous owner/mechanic made some marks that I was wrong to trust and I ended up having to use the cam lock tool to get everything lined up again. I got it out by drilling a hole in it and tapping a Torx bit into the hole with a hammer, then loosening it with a ratchet. It worked, but I was biting my nails the whole time.

      I assume they switched to the Torx screw for clearance/packaging reasons as opposed to the conventional bolt that older whiteblock engines use in that location, but I wish they hadn't - as we've found it seems like it's much easier to strip.
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    18. #16
      The key to not stripping it out is to clean the bolt head. Lots of gunk builds up inside. Gotta make sure it gets in all the way otherwise you'll have some hell to work through.
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    19. #17
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Can't remove camshaft rotor bolt. Help?

      Quote Originally Posted by qaz996 View Post
      I have broken several T-30 bits (Snap On, Matco, Cornwell, etc...) on these and stripped out a few heads as well. I have a note in my drill bit index for the perfect size to drill off the head and then the threaded shaft comes right out of the camshaft.
      That's good of you! What size bit do you use?

      And I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one to have issue with these bolts.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    20. #18
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      If you're still looking for an answer, my suggestion is to measure the OD of the replacement screw's threads, and select a bit that's about the same size. When you drill the stripped socket of the one that's in the car, you'll end up with a headless stud.

      For extra credit, use a left-hand drill bit. You may find it simply walks out, once the head start to fail and the stretch pressure within the screw relaxes.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
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    21. #19
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Does anyone have a torque for the bolts in question? Can't find them in VIDA
      2005 S40 2.4i

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Does anyone have a torque for the bolts in question? Can't find them in VIDA
      Product specifications -> Specifications, Mechanical -> 2 -> 20 -> 200 -> Tightening Torque

      Don't see that bolt specifically but in general M7 is 17nm. I would hi-temp loctite it and call it good at 20.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    23. #21
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Product specifications -> Specifications, Mechanical -> 2 -> 20 -> 200 -> Tightening Torque

      Don't see that bolt specifically but in general M7 is 17nm. I would hi-temp loctite it and call it good at 20.
      Thanks!
      2005 S40 2.4i

    24. #22
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      the key to get this out is to hit the bolt head first with a heavy hammer,go easy with it,then use a good quality torx head socket and hit it with a hammer so itdigs deep into the bolt head....if it strips out then just drill the head out,it not a hard bolt to drill out,hope this help

    25. #23
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Ha I totally forgot about this from when I did the head swap...

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      It's the little things that took the most time.... One of the cam position sensor reluctor torx tapered bolts stripped completely (need it out to install the locking tool) - had to weld on a nut to extract. To see if it would start, I machined a replacement which worked fine, but between extraction and fab wasted another 2 hours.
      But I had the cams out of the head, so it was kind of cheating.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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