HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (Bulb Out Warning), flickering, and poor starting - Page 2
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    1. #36
      Junior Member mikamars's Avatar
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      Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (theshadow27)

      What's a COTS box?

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    3. #37
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (mikamars)

      Quote, originally posted by mikamars Ľ
      What's a COTS box?

      Sorry, government acronym for Commercial Off The Shelf. As in, a store bought solution.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    4. #38
      Junior Member heico2.4i's Avatar
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      Thanks for the patience and the help Jacob...

      Volvo S40 2.4i / Premium Audio / Triple 10" MTX Sub enclosure / Eibach Pro Kit w/ Koni Yellows / IPD Rear Anti-Sway Bar / Akebono brake pads / K&N Drop in Filter.

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    6. #39
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      Built and installed BOWE, still having problems, 2007 C30

      Hello!

      I need a bit of help with solving my aftermarket HID issue. After my HID kit burnt out the wiper motor immediately after installing it I found this thread and built the BOWE, I have also rerouted the ground wire for the right bulb, just to be sure.

      After installing the BOWE both bulbs went on and off without issues for one day. After that, the right light wonít start up anymore, no matter what I do. The wiper motor has not blown again fortunately, but the right bulb just wonít start and the Bulb out Warning is always present.

      I have rechecked the BOWE, since my soldering skills are not the best, but as far as I can tell it works Ė itís letting current through the right way around and when I replace the left and right wires on the BOWE, itís still the right bulb that doesnít work.

      Is there anything I can do or should I just forget about the HIDís?

      In case thatís relevant I have a 35W HID kit from a local dealer, the balasts have Canbus Pro written on them and according to the dealer the kit is supposed to work in any Canbus car without the need for additional BOW eliminators. Well, my blown wiper motor has another story to tell.

    7. #40
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Sorry for responding to this so late, the forum migration seems to have wiped my subscribed threads.

      After installing the BOWE both bulbs went on and off without issues for one day. After that, the right light wonít start up anymore, no matter what I do. The wiper motor has not blown again fortunately, but the right bulb just wonít start and the Bulb out Warning is always present.

      It sounds to me like the ballast has died. As I explained in the original thread, running the ballast without the BOWE can potentially damage the ballast itself (as well as the car). I would try a new ballast or a new HID kit (for example the $30 DDM kit). And of course check the fuses.

      In case thatís relevant I have a 35W HID kit from a local dealer, the balasts have Canbus Pro written on them and according to the dealer the kit is supposed to work in any Canbus car without the need for additional BOW eliminators. Well, my blown wiper motor has another story to tell.
      As for this, every car built since the 90's has a CAN bus for the OBD-II port. This is a marketing gimmick, there would be no advantage to hooking the ballast into the network unless you flashed the CEM to think it had the OEM Xenons, and even in that case it's hooked up over LIN and not CAN. The "canbus" brand has nothing to do with the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus - so your dealer was telling you BS.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    8. #41
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      Thank you very much for the reply. I'll try with the HID kit you recommended, (this one, in 35 W, with no additional harness, right?). It looks like they do ship to europe, and the ground shipping isn't that expensive.

      The problem description in my original mail isn't completely accurate, because I didn't want to overcomplicate things. In all detail, it went like this:

      - I had a HID kit (don't know the brand) installed for a year with no problems. After about a yeat the right bulb strated going on and of randomly and the BOW light was comnig on. At first it happened only once every month or so, but in the end it flickered almost constantly.

      - The dealer I had bought the kit from offered to exchange the ballast for this new Canbus pro, that was supposed to eliminate the issue.

      - immedialty after installing the new ballast my wiper motor burned out. I took the hid kit out of the car and repaired the wiper motor

      - after repairing my wiper motor and building your BOWE eliminator (great writeup btw. thumbs up) I put the HID kit in again and everything worked flawelessly for one day. The next day I couldn't bring the right bulb tu turn on no mater what I did.

      - I took the HID kit and the BOWE out of the car, inspected eveything, measured the current and resistance on the BOWE, and since everything looked to bo ok I put the HID kit and the BOWE eliminator back in. Now, magically, the right bulb turns on and of fine again, with no problems.

      - After one day the right bulb again stops working, and there is no way to turn it on. So I took everything back out and went to ask for advice here.

      Anyway, I'll order the new ballast from DDM and try to put this one into my 850, to see if it's really dead or no. As far as I understand it my trusty old 850 doesn't have PWM on the headlights.

    9. #42
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      The DDMs that I use are slim 55w - it looks like the price has gone up since I last checked. I maintain a list of working HID installations in Excel format (p1hid.xls) and a number of people have had success with the raptors with and without a BOWE. I like 55w kits because they draw more current and are more likely to fool the monitoring system than 35w ballasts, and I always recommend using some sort of capacitive filter system regardless of if the kit works without it or not.

      It is possible that the new ballasts were messed up in the short time that they were installed. Slightly more ominous would be a problem with the FET (transistor) inside of the CEM that does the actual modulation. However the ballast is the most likely suspect. Or, if the actual HID capsule (bulb) has not been changed, you should try swapping the inoperable one with the good one to see if that is the issue - a misbehaving ballast (like one that repeatedly reignites the bulb) can dramatically shorten the life of the bulb.

      BTW for the 850, there is no PWM but it has a bulb out warning which is triggered when the bulb circuit draws less than 4 amps or so. I've gotten 55 watt kits to work without issue, but 35 watt kits (the standard ones) needed resistors (2x 3.8 ohm 50w in series to make 7.6 ohm 50w per side, in parallel with the ballast) to make the light go away. There are also ways to drill out the current shunt, etc, but I had the resistors lying around.
      Last edited by theshadow27; 01-04-2011 at 09:27 AM. Reason: Post was cut off...
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    10. #43
      Junior Member ah_long's Avatar
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      how is this BOW eliminator different than anything else that I could purchase from either fleabay or a local tuning store? does this help with the wiper issue?

      how wide spread is the wiper issue really, I just purchased a 35W HID kit along with a BOW eliminator, going to get it installed by a shop tomorrow...

    11. #44
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      I would pull a RTFT but I'm in a good mood.

      Question 1
      Quote Originally Posted by ah_long View Post
      how is this BOW eliminator different than anything else that I could purchase from either fleabay or a local tuning store?
      From: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?125561

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27
      The circuit is not appropriate for our car.

      With a 4700uF capacitor and a diode there would be 6.5A of AC current ripple running through the cap at all times. If you look at the datasheet the 25v 4700uF cap isn't even ripple current rated! The 80v version is rated to 3A, so the 25v is probably around 2.5a, so when the car is at 13.5v it's getting 250% of it's rated ripple current. Looking at the tan delta coefs it'd be running at close to 150c without the engine bay temps affecting it at all. Being coated in epoxy doesn't help heat get out.

      The 22000uF caps you got are rated to 5.3A ripple continuous. The higher value capacitance reduces ripple so there is only 3A of actual ripple current. It's running at 60% of it's rated value, so heat dissipation is minimal.

      Besides the caps, there's a couple of other problems with their circuit.

      First, it grounds through the headlight wires, which I've measured the resistance of (including connectors) to be around 0.3 ohms. This doesn't sound like much, but it constitutes a 1.2 volt drop at operating currents. Effectively, their cap is working with 11V which makes everything worse (capacitors store charge exponentially), where as ours are working with 13 since the wires to the CEM are huge.

      Second, there's no diode in the DDM box. It's pretty hard to explain why this is necessary, but try to think of a capacitor as a tank of water with a fill and a drain at the bottom. The drain goes to the HID, and the fill goes to the CEM. The CEM feels the need to maintain the level of water in the tank by hooking a garden hose up to the fill. The level goes up, and after a certain point the CEM removes the hose. Well water still goes out the drain, but it also goes out the fill because there's no hose connected. The diode is a one way valve that stops water from back washing out the fill when the CEM disconnects the hose. (jdsr917 - I tried, I really did)

      Third the inductor is a great idea, but is way too small for our PWM frequency of 82hz. As I went over in the original posts, you'd need a huge inductor (several pounds) to dampen such a low frequency significantly. 1uH is nowhere close, it'd take more like 300mH...



      Question 2

      Quote Originally Posted by ah_long View Post
      does this help with the wiper issue?.
      From: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?129216

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27
      (the wiper motor issue) is caused by a ground connection shared between the headlights and the wiper motor. My guess is that if you have a capacitor between the positive and negative leads of the headlight wire without a diode, when the CEM goes to open circuit (PWM low) the cap can put the potential of the ground connection below 0v because the JFET has a flyback diode connected to V+. My diode blocks current flow backwards through the CEM, and we've been running this for a couple months with no issues.



      Question 3
      Quote Originally Posted by ah_long View Post
      how wide spread is the wiper issue really, I just purchased a 35W HID kit along with a BOW eliminator, going to get it installed by a shop tomorrow...
      If you search for "WMM" on this board you'll get quite a few threads, and there are similar threads in international forums (including Noway, Russia, and Sweden...). I compiled a list of HID users and their results here.

      That said, do whatever you want - it sounds like your mind is made up. But as I've said before:

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27
      Yes it's possible for an aftermarket HID kit to work without a warning. Certainly there are some kits that work out of the box.
      No it's not possible for an aftermarket HID kit to function normally.

      Here's the analogy: Take a bunch of cars (BMW, Volvo, Honda, Ford, etc..) and fill up the tank with 9 gallons of fuel and 1 gallon of water. Is it possible for for some of them to run without a warning? Sure. Will some refuse to start? Absolutely. Is it good for any of them? No.

      Just because it works doesn't mean it's good for the ballast or the electrical system. One, or both, will fail much sooner than otherwise because neither is running under design spec conditions.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    12. #45
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      19 FEB 2011 - Added troubleshooting section to first post
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    13. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      19 FEB 2011 - Added troubleshooting section to first post
      Would you be willing to build a BOW device to sell? I don't trust myself with this DIY.

    14. #47
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      Quote Originally Posted by bourmb View Post
      Would you be willing to build a BOW device to sell? I don't trust myself with this DIY.

      +1

    15. #48
      Hi guys,
      First time poster, short time lurker. Just bought a 09 C30 T5 and ordered my 55W raptors today. I'm fine with soldering and electrical stuff, but I can't seem to find the proper wires in the CEM connector. I found one wire that is green and white, but I cannot find the green and purple one. Anyone have pictures or updated information on the harness for the US spec C30 T5? Is the green and white wire still the one I want to use? Also, where did you route the wires, as the CEM in weather protected in the engine compartment in the C30. All information is appreciated.

    16. #49
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by benyen soljax View Post
      Hi guys,
      First time poster, short time lurker. Just bought a 09 C30 T5 and ordered my 55W raptors today. I'm fine with soldering and electrical stuff, but I can't seem to find the proper wires in the CEM connector. I found one wire that is green and white, but I cannot find the green and purple one. Anyone have pictures or updated information on the harness for the US spec C30 T5? Is the green and white wire still the one I want to use? Also, where did you route the wires, as the CEM in weather protected in the engine compartment in the C30. All information is appreciated.
      I've uploaded the wiring diagram for the C30 (also 09 S40, C70, V50) here: http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/39129202.pdf

      The CEM is in the passenger footwell, the ECM (engine control module) is the one in the engine bay. It is easy to find, the interior fusebox is part of the CEM.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    17. #50
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      I want to install HID but I don't want to disable DRL and don't want to build a KBOW as i'm not good with that kind of work.

      So my solution is to use a relay harness... This WILL give me the bulb(s) out message. Also I don't have fog lights to connect too.

      A load resistor is the only way I guess.
      Would something like this produkt work?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H8-H1...item5646281731

      By replacing the connectors to be plug & play with the cars halogen lamp connectors...

      Will it work?
      The resistor will get really warm as I understand, but will it work by mounting it into the chassis?

      How many Watts or Ohms is needed to clear out the bulb out message from the low beams?

      //Kensy
      Last edited by timebandit; 10-13-2011 at 01:13 PM.

    18. #51
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by timebandit View Post
      I want to install HID but I don't want to disable DRL and don't want to build a KBOW as i'm not good with that kind of work.

      So my solution is to use a relay harness... This WILL give me the bulb(s) out message. Also I don't have fog lights to connect too. A load resistor is the only way I guess.

      How many Watts or Ohms is needed to clear out the bulb out message from the low beams?
      Hi Kensy,

      I understand your concerns, and you are correct, a load resistor will work. Thank you for taking the time to review my research

      I would say the ideal resistor would be 4 ohms, 100w, to provide a 100% safety margin. The resistor in your link is 6 ohms, rated to 50W. At 13.0V (the regulated output voltage) that resistor should draw 28 watts (2.1A), which is slightly more than half of the designed headlight current. Some people have reported success with 30W HIDs, so it might be sufficient, but worse case put two in parallel (6 || 6 = 3 ohms) which will surely work.

      You are also correct in the heat produced by the resistor, will be 28 (or 56) watts, which will get it very hot - probably 70-80c (160-180F) if not warmer. Bolting the resistor to the chassis (with self-tapping screws, or rivets, etc... metal fasteners only!) is the best approach, however if one is sufficient to prevent the BOW then you can probably leave it in side of the headlight housing without causing issues (remember, a halogen bulb is just a resistor where some of the heat escapes as light). If bolting to the chassis is an option though, I would recommend it.

      You should not have to modify the connectors if you use the one in your link and bolt to the chassis, because HID retrofit kits have a grommet with a passthrough for that type of connector ("superseal") on the outside already, with the H11 connector on the inside. So you can use that passthrough to connect the resistor. Then just connect the HID power supply to the relay harness.

      Hope this helps,

      Jacob
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    19. #52
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      Thanks for a good and usable reply. Then I really should try get some 100W, 3ohm resistor instead. Better to be safe than sorry. Much more work needed if 50W, 6ohm doesn't work.
      Do you think 75W, 3ohm is enough?

      Also happy that this really will work.
      I will check for a suitable place to put these resistors and find a good way to mount it with screws onto metal.

      Found a webpage that has 100W, 3ohm at aprox $10 each + shipping. Will go for those I guess.
      I'm not sure how exactly to install these? Can I really do this:

      1. + from lamp connector to resistor +.
      2. + from lamp connector to relay harness (remote, that activates the relay).
      3. Then connect the HID relay harness as normal.
      4. - from lamp connector to resistor - (ground)
      5. - from lamp connector to relay - (ground).

      Is this correct?


      //Kensy
      Last edited by timebandit; 10-14-2011 at 09:43 AM.

    20. #53
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by timebandit View Post
      Then I really should try get some 100W, 3ohm resistor instead. Better to be safe than sorry. Found a webpage that has 100W, 3ohm at aprox $10 each + shipping. Will go for those I guess.

      A 100W 3 ohm resistor is perfect, that will work no matter what. I recommend the 100W over the 75W, to be safe (especially if you do not know the brand of resistor). Don't use wire smaller than 16 AWG in the hookup. A 3 ohm resistor should be mounted outside of the housing - the HID bulb produces a lot of heat and the housing is not designed to dissipate both heat sources.

      Quote Originally Posted by timebandit View Post
      I'm not sure how exactly to install these? Can I really do this:

      1. + from lamp connector to resistor +.
      2. + from lamp connector to relay harness (remote, that activates the relay).
      3. Then connect the HID relay harness as normal.
      4. - from lamp connector to resistor - (ground)
      5. - from lamp connector to relay - (ground).

      Is this correct?
      Yes, the connections are correct - the relay should be in parallel with (one of) the resistors. The resistor and relay are not polarized (the "+" and "-" do not matter, it can be reversed) so do not worry too much about that - however the relay might have a common ground so stick with the color codes (red/yellow = +, black/brown = -). For the relay harness, I recommend using the ground studs on the strut where there should be plenty of extra bolts, this is where all of the heavy electronics in the vehicle ground. Don't try to re-use the headlight ground wires (except for the resistors, which is OK - the resistor should be hooked up just like it was a bulb). The positive terminal of the relay harness can be hooked to one of the the fusible link bolts on either the main fuse box or starter side of the positive battery terminal.

      Hope this helps,

      Jacob

      P.S. Aside from the extra work of running the relay harness, the only disadvantages to this method are theoretical: 100W of wasted power = 0.134 HP... not really an issue. The alternator will not miss the 8 amps either, as it puts out about 120 if you have the base model. So I really don't have a good argument against it. If you manage to do it for less than, say, $40 and can take some pictures, I'd post them on my website and update the writeup to mention it as an alternative to the KBOWE. I agree it is much simpler than trying to order and solder together capacitors and diodes.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    21. #54
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      Thanks for a good answer!

      I will buy these 100W, 3ohm resistors at the end of the month. 0.134 HP and 8A, I don't mind too loose. I won't even notice it My previous car was a Volvo V70 GLT 1998 and this V50 upgrade is a big boost so ...
      I will try to take a lot of pictures and try to make a write up on the installation. I might get back here for some further assistance if it doesn't go as I want =)

      Thanks.


      @theshadow27: The link I first posted that had connectors to pass throu, isn't that wrong? These resistors need to be installed in parallell and not in a serie?
      If it's possible to that kind of connector, then it's the best to get some connectors and make the resistor plug & play
      Last edited by timebandit; 10-18-2011 at 09:51 AM.

    22. #55
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      Hi again.

      The resistors have been ordered and waiting for delivery =)
      I now have all the parts besides the resistors.
      I have a question about how to connect, have another connection idea. Does this work?


      Can I connect the resistor to the H11 orginal connector (both earth and plus) and then make a split/joint on the plus cable to be forwarded to the relay. Then ground the relay to chassis and so on? This will be easier so I don't have to modify the relay connectors
      Ie. use a 2 way crimp terminal/"faston" at the original H11 connector and connect resistor and relay at the + and then resistor - to negative on the H11 connector?

    23. #56
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Yes, that is how I thought you would originally do it. Maybe this will help:


      Sorry for the bad photoshop!
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    24. #57
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      Thanks.

      Good picture. I will try to get some plug & play connector so I don't have to use a crimp or anything. If I use crimp, I'm thinking of using it on the inside even if it's more work, it's much safer and easier to do.
      I'm thinking of using some kind of these to make it easier. My Xenon bulbs does not have H11 connectors for plug & play.



      I hope the resistors will arrive during this week. Will try take pictures and document everything.

      The resistor should be installed in parallell but will it work to install it in a serie too? On the left side the orginal cables won't be used at all as the relay powers everything on the other side. So can I just plug in the resistor on that side? + to + and - to - on the orginal connector? My guess is yes but calculating electrical things are not my big strenght


      Edit:

      I now have all the parts needed for this operation! Yay. I did just took a look where to place these resistors but it's not easy to put them anywhere. Is there someone who has some pointers?
      Last edited by timebandit; 11-02-2011 at 05:37 AM.

    25. #58
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      I've read this past as well as other information regarding this issue at length and I'm looking for some slight clarification. I would prefer not to cut into the CEM wiring on my C30 and so I'm going the route of using a battery harness. The clarification I'm looking for is whether or not the BOW3 error cancellers I've ordered from DDM will be sufficient to eliminate the Bulb out warning without an additional resistor load, given that it appears the relay is powered by only one of the headlight connections and the other will therefore be connected to the BOW3 with no output from there (obviously I would also install a BOW3 in-line with the wiring harness and relay). For information I've ordered a set of 55w HIDs as well as a set of BOW3 error cancellers and a battery wiring harness; I'm not planning to touch the fogs or the associated wiring. Also I'm hoping I will not need to build an additional resistor load for the light harness. Guidance is appreciated.

    26. #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by PM_Traveler View Post
      The clarification I'm looking for is whether or not the BOW3 error cancellers I've ordered from DDM will be sufficient to eliminate the Bulb out warning without an additional resistor load, given that it appears the relay is powered by only one of the headlight connections and the other will therefore be connected to the BOW3 with no output from there (obviously I would also install a BOW3 in-line with the wiring harness and relay). For information I've ordered a set of 55w HIDs as well as a set of BOW3 error cancellers and a battery wiring harness; I'm not planning to touch the fogs or the associated wiring. Also I'm hoping I will not need to build an additional resistor load for the light harness. Guidance is appreciated.
      No, the BOW3 does not draw any current itself, it is just a bypass capacitor and series inductor. The BOW is triggered when not enough current is drawn. So a relay harness will always BOW without resistors.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
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    27. #60
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      Hello I write from Italy and I have a MY12 v50 with DRL. I would like to mount a slim 35W xenon kit and I want to also KBOWE, but not inside the cabin but in the engine compartment. My doubts about the connection of kbowe and ballast. the positive kbowe I have to put between the + coming from the lighthouse and the ballast and the negative ground. The negative from the lighthouse I connect it directly to the ballast? is better to have 35W or 55W kit to have no errors at cdb? If I mount a 35W should I put an additional resistance to Bowe?
      Many thanks to everyone who participated in this fantastic topic



      By veloce288 at 2012-03-31
      Last edited by veloce288; 03-31-2012 at 06:46 AM.

    28. #61
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Sorry for the delay, I must have missed the notification email. It is probably too late, but for the record:

      Quote Originally Posted by veloce288 View Post
      Hello I write from Italy and I have a MY12 v50 with DRL. I would like to mount a slim 35W xenon kit and I want to also KBOWE, but not inside the cabin but in the engine compartment. My doubts about the connection of kbowe and ballast. the positive kbowe I have to put between the + coming from the lighthouse and the ballast and the negative ground. The negative from the lighthouse I connect it directly to the ballast?
      The negative from the factory harness, ballast, and chassis should be connected together at a single point. Use 12AWG or 14AWG wire for the chassis ground, and connect this to the HID (-) terminal. Also, connect the brown wire (or black, if using the HID grommet passthrough) to the same wire. This connection is not important (no current should flow), but it is good practice to ground it anyway.

      Quote Originally Posted by veloce288 View Post
      Is better to have 35W or 55W kit to have no errors at cdb? If I mount a 35W should I put an additional resistance to Bowe?
      Some people have used 35W with no issues, it depends on the efficiency of the kit (better efficiency = more likely to cause problems). With HID, 35W refers to the power through the bulb, and not the power drawn from 12V. If 100% efficient, the 35W kit would draw 2.7A from 13V, but at a (more realistic) 80% efficiency the kit will draw 3.2A, 3.5A at 70%, and so on. The stock headlight draws 4.2A, but the threshold for BOW is lower than that - probably around 3-3.5A - and also varies from CEM to CEM (depending on the shunt resistor component tolerance). So with the right combination of kit and car, 35W will have no problem.

      55W seems to always work without resistors, since it will draw at least 4.2A but more like 4.5 or 4.8, well above the threshold.

      If you already have a 35W kit, but get a BOW with a KBOWE, there is no need to add a full size (3-5 ohm) ballast resistor, a 10 or 12 ohm resistor should do the trick. Just make sure it is rated at least 20W!! The best place to add the resistor is BEFORE the KBOWE, across the bulb lines, but as close to the diode as possible. This minimizes load on the capacitor filter, and provides a smoother voltage for the ballast.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
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    29. #62
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      Hi.

      Been long time for me since last time. Still have NOT installed xenon due to no time and other priorities
      But now I have started soldering cables etc on the resistors. A plug & play connector had been added to.

      The ballast I think I have found a place for...
      My biggest problem is where to place these 100W resistors, there are not alot room in the V50 to work with.
      Also, does the heat from the resistor damange the paint work of the car? Everything in the engine room is painted (chassis parts).

    30. #63
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      Quote Originally Posted by timebandit View Post
      My biggest problem is where to place these 100W resistors, there are not alot room in the V50 to work with.
      Also, does the heat from the resistor damange the paint work of the car? Everything in the engine room is painted (chassis parts).
      The paint in the engine bay (and elsewhere) is very heat resistant. The turbo is inches from the firewall and runs at, what, 600c? 50W into a 100W rated metal resistor bolted to the chassis will likely not exceed 60c. If you are worried want to be very clever, you can remove the grill and install them to the left and right (by the horns) which will ensure air to keep them cool.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    31. #64
      Junior Member fluff110's Avatar
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      Hi everybody,

      Has anybody tried the KBOWE with a P2 / P2.5 V70/S60?

      I'm trying to fit OEM HIDs and and stuck with the dreaded "bulb out" error on the DIM. There seems to be a PWM signal on the dipped headlight feed but it was very low voltage and a frequency of 2KHz so maybe it was bleed through from the PWM used to drive the headlight level motors? (they use a 2KHz PWM signal).

      Thanks,

      Paul
      2003 V70R AWD Manual Titanium Grey / Nordkap. Facelift rear lights.
      2005 V70 D5 E4 S Manual Burgundy - workhorse and project car.

      Previously: 2001 V70 (140) Torslanda

    32. #65
      Member ss60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by fluff110 View Post
      Hi everybody,

      Has anybody tried the KBOWE with a P2 / P2.5 V70/S60?

      I'm trying to fit OEM HIDs and and stuck with the dreaded "bulb out" error on the DIM. There seems to be a PWM signal on the dipped headlight feed but it was very low voltage and a frequency of 2KHz so maybe it was bleed through from the PWM used to drive the headlight level motors? (they use a 2KHz PWM signal).

      Thanks,

      Paul
      Which car are you trying this on; your 03 or the 05 (different wiring) ?. I've put a 35W kit on an 04 and it worked without an error, using with off the shelf parts.
      This is what I used >> http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=238
      Thread here >> https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...install-thread
      Last edited by ss60; 06-18-2012 at 07:05 AM.
      iPD tune / Bilstein HD /25mm sways / Heico dual exhaust / OE sport body kit / HID Projectors / VST strut brace / EU power folding mirror kit / iMIV / Volvotech CFE / etc.

    33. #66
      Junior Member fluff110's Avatar
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      It's the 05 so different wiring.

      Thanks for the link to your thread ss60 - I'll have a read through that after work, looks very interesting.
      2003 V70R AWD Manual Titanium Grey / Nordkap. Facelift rear lights.
      2005 V70 D5 E4 S Manual Burgundy - workhorse and project car.

      Previously: 2001 V70 (140) Torslanda

    34. #67
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LotsaBoost View Post
      Okay so after looking through countless of these topics and conversations, I think I have thought of a way to cost effectively install my HIDs without any worries about electrical issues, failures, or BOWs. I'm not the best at constructing circuits, and the closest dealer to me is 250 miles. This plus the $120 doesn't make it worth it. Now I could be completely wrong and overlooking something very easily so feel free to chime in and shoot me down if you see something.

      Supplies:
      DDM 55w Slim Ballast HID kit
      Battery Harness Kit
      about 10ft of 18g wire
      6 wire taps and 4 female connectors

      First, disconnect the battery.
      Disconnect the light connectors for low beams and fog lights.
      Now tap into each low beam connector, pre plug, and run the wires down to the fogs.
      Connect the newly ran wires from your low beams directly to the bulbs in the fog lights (I would use 55w fog light bulbs)
      Now install the HID kit and Battery Harness like you would a normal set up. (grounded to the chasis)
      The only thing left is to hook up the trigger for the battery harness relay, Tap into one of the fog light connectors, and run this directly to the trigger.

      Now If all was to go as planned, my fogs would be on all the time (which doesn't bother me), running as the DRLs, I could turn them off with the parking light position if really needed. And no BOW would be displayed.
      The HIDs would turn on and off with the fog light button, which is just as convenient as turning a switch.
      There is no extra load placed on any stock wiring.
      No need for a DRL disable, BOW harnesses, or KWOBE construction.
      Everything could very easily be returned to stock.

      Again this is just a thought I am yet to try it, but if no one can see any flaws in my thinking I will be giving it a shot.
      This is correct - and should work as you describe, no BOWE, no danger to the WMM. IIRC at least one member is running this setup.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    35. #68
      Junior Member LotsaBoost's Avatar
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      Great! Thanks for the quick reply. I could post a little better write up if anyone was interested when I tackle this. I will report back when I have my results, and with any snags I run into along the way.

    36. #69
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      Just wanted to give a little update. Everything went smoothly. I used DDM tuning 55w 6000k HIDs paired with Nokya Hyper Yellow 35w fog lights. Went as planned and it is a very simple operation for turning my lights on and off. I find my self driving with the switch in the parking light spot most of the day time, but at night, a simple push of the fog button lights up the night. I saw a statistic somewhere for everyone running HIDs on s40s, so if you see this you could add me to running 55 w DDMs with a Battery harness and foglight drl hook up.

    37. #70
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      Quote Originally Posted by LotsaBoost View Post
      Just wanted to give a little update. Everything went smoothly. I used DDM tuning 55w 6000k HIDs paired with Nokya Hyper Yellow 35w fog lights. Went as planned and it is a very simple operation for turning my lights on and off. I find my self driving with the switch in the parking light spot most of the day time, but at night, a simple push of the fog button lights up the night. I saw a statistic somewhere for everyone running HIDs on s40s, so if you see this you could add me to running 55 w DDMs with a Battery harness and foglight drl hook up.
      No problem, just a few questions:
      1) Year?
      2) S40 or V50?
      3) Verify no BOW light?
      4) When locking on high beams kill the headlights, how fast do they restart?

      Thanks for checking in.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

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