BTW, this is the note I sent to Lucky:
Got in on the massive skid plate group buy in January - great deal by the way, can't buy a plate that size for $200 shipped. Couple of points:
1) Only two front bolts were supplied and shown in the instructions, but there are three holes in the plate and the car. The supplied bolts are also way too long, and would have punched through the intercooler piping if installed as indicated. Should supply three bolts for the front. Nuts on the top? So much harder than it needs to be. Since the cutouts are already square, I used three 1/4" * 3/4" carriage bolts installed threads-down, which is perfect. Carriage bolts remove the requirement for the nut/washer on the top, prevent any potential interference in the radiator/intercooler, and allow sane removal/install of all three bolts.
2) This is apparently only an issue on my car (several dozen others have not had this problem) but the washers supplied for the back bolts gave insufficient clearance for the lower engine/transmission mount, and under hard acceleration in lower gears the mount would make contact with the plate and produce a lovely Honda-Civic-with-hole-in-exhaust sound. Might be worth supplying a few more washers for the back bolts in the future, in case others run into this problem. I used 1/4" aluminum flat stock to space it out.
3) The IPD logo is a nice touch, but a bit large for a part that will only be seen by mechanics. It also presents a major structural weakness in the most critical part of the skidplate. I can understand if you've already got a batch cut out, but I'd really recommend laser-etch any new ones you guys make. I painted a plate riveted to the back of mine, but as you can see that's just going to fill with mud and be a PITA to clean out. A laser etch could just be sprayed off. If the idea was to match the ventilation of the stock splash pan that is unnecessary, the stock one was sealed all around to the bodywork and radiator support and would have been forced off the bottom by air pressure at high speed if not for the vents. The IPD one isn't being forced anywhere by anything, and the sides are wide open anyway.
4) Stiffening. The plate is very pretty, but almost useless as provided. For any expectation of direct-contact protection, it really needs significant strengthening. I used aluminum angle and a few rivets, for production a decent bead-roller would do the same thing. Without rails/beads, the first time the car skids over something it will fold halfway between the bottom fold and the subframe, and go directly into the oil pan.
5) The stock pan was covered in styrofoam and other deadening, and I found the "tinking" noise small rocks made bouncing off the bottom of a giant aluminum cymbal to be annoying. Some butyl rubber sound deadener (rated to 150 degrees c) took care of that.
Other than that, the fit was perfect, clearance is good (at least in the front), all holes line up, and the oil drain slot is actually useful. Pictures of modifications attached.