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    1. #36
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: (carreragt7)

      So the vibration was from the lower engine/transmission mount rubbing against the plate under hard acceleration. Ended up spacing out the back with 1/4" plate (riveted of course) in place of the upper washers, and spacing out the front with a nut on each bolt.

      Fixed the logo for AJ. Used a bit too much silicone behind the pate and it leached a little. Looks better than before though

      Although I didn't go too crazy, since by the time I got home it was already nasty

      Also, in case you were wondering what the rows on the bottom are, there's three rows of angle running down the length, so now it's an actual skid plate instead of a decoration. There's beads of silicone running down the length, and one rivet per inch. It's significantly more sturdy than before, no flex whatsoever.

      Plus a few layers of 40mil butyl mass loader

      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

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    3. #37
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      The Russians won't know what hit them...

    4. #38
      Member carreragt7's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      Looking good shadow!
      SATIN PEARL WHITE S40 T5 AWD with some sweet custom bodywork by concrete medians...

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    6. #39
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      BTW, this is the note I sent to Lucky:

      Got in on the massive skid plate group buy in January - great deal by the way, can't buy a plate that size for $200 shipped. Couple of points:

      1) Only two front bolts were supplied and shown in the instructions, but there are three holes in the plate and the car. The supplied bolts are also way too long, and would have punched through the intercooler piping if installed as indicated. Should supply three bolts for the front. Nuts on the top? So much harder than it needs to be. Since the cutouts are already square, I used three 1/4" * 3/4" carriage bolts installed threads-down, which is perfect. Carriage bolts remove the requirement for the nut/washer on the top, prevent any potential interference in the radiator/intercooler, and allow sane removal/install of all three bolts.

      2) This is apparently only an issue on my car (several dozen others have not had this problem) but the washers supplied for the back bolts gave insufficient clearance for the lower engine/transmission mount, and under hard acceleration in lower gears the mount would make contact with the plate and produce a lovely Honda-Civic-with-hole-in-exhaust sound. Might be worth supplying a few more washers for the back bolts in the future, in case others run into this problem. I used 1/4" aluminum flat stock to space it out.

      3) The IPD logo is a nice touch, but a bit large for a part that will only be seen by mechanics. It also presents a major structural weakness in the most critical part of the skidplate. I can understand if you've already got a batch cut out, but I'd really recommend laser-etch any new ones you guys make. I painted a plate riveted to the back of mine, but as you can see that's just going to fill with mud and be a PITA to clean out. A laser etch could just be sprayed off. If the idea was to match the ventilation of the stock splash pan that is unnecessary, the stock one was sealed all around to the bodywork and radiator support and would have been forced off the bottom by air pressure at high speed if not for the vents. The IPD one isn't being forced anywhere by anything, and the sides are wide open anyway.

      4) Stiffening. The plate is very pretty, but almost useless as provided. For any expectation of direct-contact protection, it really needs significant strengthening. I used aluminum angle and a few rivets, for production a decent bead-roller would do the same thing. Without rails/beads, the first time the car skids over something it will fold halfway between the bottom fold and the subframe, and go directly into the oil pan.

      5) The stock pan was covered in styrofoam and other deadening, and I found the "tinking" noise small rocks made bouncing off the bottom of a giant aluminum cymbal to be annoying. Some butyl rubber sound deadener (rated to 150 degrees c) took care of that.

      Other than that, the fit was perfect, clearance is good (at least in the front), all holes line up, and the oil drain slot is actually useful. Pictures of modifications attached.

      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    7. #40
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      Did you ever get a response back?

    8. #41
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: (stealth)

      Quote, originally posted by stealth »
      Did you ever get a response back?

      Yeah lol:
      Quote, originally posted by [email protected] »
      Great feedback thanks! Any specs on the sound deadening material you used?

      Awesome I sent him the link to the eDead...
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    9. #42
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      http://www.edesignaudio.com/pr...d=786

      It's less expensive than I anticipated.


    10. #43
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: (stealth)

      ... So stealth ... how'd the pictures turn out?
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    11. #44
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      Hahahaha, they're still on my camera. I probably should get around to uploading them shouldn't I...

    12. #45
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Re: (stealth)

      Alright, I met up with shadow and we made some improvements to the ipd skid plate - with pictures. Here they are:

      Before (check the 'damage' already incurred):

      Pop-riveted scrap 1/4" aluminum as a rear spacer to replace the washers. The extra spacing keeps the lower mount from rubbing on the plate - which it WAS starting to rub through (see shiny part down and left from the oil access hole). Also, part of the drivers side subframe was sitting on the plate, no longer a problem (see bottom left of plate, dark circle). Scrap aluminum is also used to cover the ipd logo in the front of the plate (from behind the logo - more on this later), which is then pop riveted to the skid plate in addition to a thin layer of silicon around the edge to dampen any vibration.

      Adding some edead 80 soundproofing:

      And now the special, some Swedish color. Automotive rattle can on some scrap aluminum baked on by using a torch on the back-side of the scrap.



    13. #46
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: (stealth)

      Don't forget the carriage bolts!

      Verified that 1/4" * 3/4" is the right size. Buy 6 nuts and 6 washers so you can have the carriage bolts hold themselves in when you drop the plate. Locktite blue is a good idea too since the back bolts aren't as far threaded in as before (still 5 threads left).

      Flag looks good, shame it was probably covered with dirt by the time you got home

      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    14. #47
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27)

      Quote, originally posted by theshadow27 »
      Don't forget the carriage bolts!

      Verified that 1/4" * 3/4" is the right size. Buy 6 nuts and 6 washers so you can have the carriage bolts hold themselves in when you drop the plate. Locktite blue is a good idea too since the back bolts aren't as far threaded in as before (still 5 threads left).

      Flag looks good, shame it was probably covered with dirt by the time you got home

      Oh yeah, all of what he said too. Nice save

      I don't think I got any dirt on the skid plate...it took me an hour to get TO the American Legion Memorial Bridge...which was all of three miles from Tyson's corner??? Stupid 270 bleed over onto the beltway


    15. #48
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Re: (theshadow27) Your Plus ++ On that .

      Your - Right - Function should always be First , but marketing People
      get there way on a lot of Items - everywhere and I have always found it
      to be very Troublesome , as They don't Really Don't Understand - Full Function .

      I would have like to seen a Far Better - Oil Access , a few Air Guidng Fins for
      Strength , I did Mention this in the First Group Buy .

      The Stiffing Fins would have Kept Noise in Check .

      So - IPD ends up with a So So Product .

      After Hearing - about some of the Oil Pan - Stories - I'm Re-enforcing My Splash Shield also . Thanks for all the - Very Good Photo's & Work .

      ps: IPD could have just Added a Detent Hit - it would resemble 4 Long
      Tube Radius's like .060 Deep 2" wide & the Length of Shield for Superior Strength & Stiffness : Read ( Better Protection ) . I would have like to see Oil Drain in Proper Location with a Larger Detent around that Opening X .080 Dp and Twice as Large as the Oil Plug Drain Opening .This would serve as an Oil Catch for anything Dripped onto Shield during Draining , and with the Simple Wipe of a Rag - Inserted with Fingers : Read
      ( All Gathered Around the Detent ) Read: ( No Removal - Necessary )




      Modified by EngTech at 8:02 PM 3-14-2010


    16. #49
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      Re: (ForceFed Motorsports) Maybe that's a Diesel D5 with Twin Turbo's

      About Your Picture of the - OEM - Unit

      Those Cooling Vents for the Turbo are Nice , I Opened Up My Stock ones so they Flow More . Still Need Better - Oil Pan Protection



    17. #50
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Quote, originally posted by EngTech »
      About Your Picture of the - OEM - Unit

      Those Cooling Vents for the Turbo are Nice , I Opened Up My Stock ones so they Flow More . Still Need Better - Oil Pan Protection

      Is venting the turbo really necessary on these cars? If so, I don't think it would be too much trouble to scoop air from the side of the skid plate, as it doesn't go wheel to wheel. How to build said scoop is up to you though.


    18. #51
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      Re: (stealth) Hey Hey - Cooling Vents !

      Hey Cooling Vents - not Scopes - I'd say from looking @ OEM Version It Is to Aid in Pulling Air Out .

      This is Pretty much what the One on the OEM Spash Shield do = Greater Air Movement around Engine Bay .

      I Really Don't Know what the - Volume of Air coming into Bay , would be - I'm sure You could do some Basic Math .

      I'am Thinking the Channel's might Assit in This as Straighter Air
      would , should form a Tighter Flow Pattern to the Bottom - Creating a Ventury Effect = Extraction from the Bay -


    19. #52
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Re: (stealth) Hey Hey - Cooling Vents ! (EngTech)

      The back of the plate is now spaced (both our cars) 1/4" from the subframe. Air flowing over the bottom of the plate will pass over the gap and create a low pressure region at the back of the plate.

      In all honesty though, any holes or lack thereof in the skidplate are largely irrelevant for airflow. There are flaps on the radiator air duct which open when there's positive relative pressure between the front of the car and the engine bay (i.e. car going above 30mph) that drop air in right on top of the plate. The sides of the IPD skid plate, unlike the stocker, have 3"-4" on both sides between the edge and the bumper where most of this air will go. Any remaining air will flow under the oilpan and most likely out the exhaust/transmission tunnel, which is the biggest opening and the path of least resistance.

      Also, I'm not sure why you're so concerned with heat extraction from the engine bay... Unless you have a hot-air intake (cone filter) which is a dumb idea anyway, all heat loss from the engine bay represents a loss of efficiency, with the engine taking additional power to heat cold air rather than putting it down to the ground.

      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    20. #53
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      Re: (theshadow27) OK

      - Sounds Like - there's Plenty of Room for the Air Passing thru Engine Bay Area - for Extraction so Inter Cooler - other Items like that aren't being Diminished .

    21. #54
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      Re: (theshadow27) OK (EngTech)

      Due to the sides being so wide open, I'd estimate that for a given pressure before the intercooler and radiator, pressure after is 5-10 times lower than stock. The gap is huge. Sealing off the IPD logo actually helps in this regard, by preventing high-pressure air being introduced behind the IC.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    22. #55
      Member carreragt7's Avatar
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      Ok, for those of you who have a lot more experience in this stuff:

      Please tell me how you went about doing your riveting. Is it as simple as drilling out the holes and putting in the rivets? Is there a special kind of rivet or tool I need to buy/rent/borrow?
      The lab that I use has a small rivet gun but due to the size of the skid plate I am pretty sure the rivet gun I have is useless. I don't have much experience with rivets but I know there are kinds that can basically be hammered into place and then you just trim off the excess 'nail' or whatever you want to call it.

      I've got sound deadener ready to go, but figured I'd do the 'fixes' that shadow, stealth, and lron have done with covering the front logo with extra aluminum and maybe give it some support beams if I figure out how to do it properly. I am just tired of the vibration and tinny sounds coming from under my car. Besides that the plate has been wonderful and saved me a few times from junk on the freeway. I even PCed mine the same color as my wheel lips to tie the color into my color scheme and even after some pretty good scrapes the plate looks pretty dang good.

      Thanks in advance for any help any of you are able to provide. I really need to get some more local car buddies so I can do some of these projects more easily.

      Theshadow27/Jacob: where'd you go bro? I miss the vast knowledge you provided us! Also curious as to what the progress is on your custom HID BOW harness thing, if that is going to be produced or if it is at least possible to get from you. I figured out the reason my left HID was going out sometimes; the wiring in my left lamp housing where the light gets plugged into has a short somewhere that causes it to randomly lose power. I haven't had the time to figure out which wire yet.
      SATIN PEARL WHITE S40 T5 AWD with some sweet custom bodywork by concrete medians...

    23. #56

    24. #57
      Member carreragt7's Avatar
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      Thanks stealth! I ended up just going with some small nuts and bolts that I then cut off the excess threading with a grinder. The pop rivets that I have access to were too short unfortunately, and my car is up on jacks due to multiple projects so I couldn't just run to the hardware store (gf has the other car at work).

      I'll post some pics up in a bit, still working on it and other projects. I like the outcome so far though. Thanks again!
      SATIN PEARL WHITE S40 T5 AWD with some sweet custom bodywork by concrete medians...

    25. #58
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      No problem, hopefully it'll help either you or someone else in the future. I would strongly suggest using shadow's front carriage bolt system...very useful.

    26. #59
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by stealth View Post
      No problem, hopefully it'll help either you or someone else in the future. I would strongly suggest using shadow's front carriage bolt system...very useful.
      Make sure the materials you use are salt and rust proof. I just purchased some stainless steel hardware to swap in.

    27. #60
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by stealth View Post
      Make sure the materials you use are salt and rust proof. I just purchased some stainless steel hardware to swap in.
      PICTURES. lol

      Edit:

      Quote Originally Posted by carreragt7 View Post
      Theshadow27/Jacob: where'd you go bro? I miss the vast knowledge you provided us! Also curious as to what the progress is on your custom HID BOW harness thing, if that is going to be produced or if it is at least possible to get from you. I figured out the reason my left HID was going out sometimes; the wiring in my left lamp housing where the light gets plugged into has a short somewhere that causes it to randomly lose power. I haven't had the time to figure out which wire yet.
      Just saw this, haha I guess it's a little (year?) late. Hopefully you've got the HID issue worked out. Did you figure out the rivets? The tool is $12 at Home Depot
      Last edited by theshadow27; 05-15-2011 at 09:51 PM.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    28. #61
      Member stealth's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      PICTURES. lol
      I'll get them, haha. In the interim...

      I used three 1/4" 3/4" carriage bolts, and could probably have used 1" instead. The 3/4" leaves zero extra thread, but with sufficient locktite blue, I'm sure it's going nowhere. I was not able to get any star washer integrated nuts, but again, locktite. I did notice that the square base of the carriage bolt does extend slightly below the lower radiator support, which doesn't allow the washer to sit perfectly flush, but it is quite sturdy anyway. We're talking 2mm maybe, and there is no rattling.

      I used two different sizes of washers, using the slightly smaller ones against the top of the lower radiator support, and larger below the skid plate. The nuts were actually stamped '304' (at least that's what it looked like), which I found both pretty cool and helpful. I was not able to find a washer with a square center - and that would have been great.

      In closing, ideally purchase the following (minimum, but getting extras is a good idea):
      • Three 1/4" 1" stainless steel carriage bolts
      • Six stainless steel nuts with integrated star washer
      • Three 1" diameter stainless steel flat washers
      • Three 3/4" diameter stainless steel flat washers
      • Blue locktite

    29. #62
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      So... Tempting... http://www.amazon.com/Sparco-01606S-...=pd_sbs_auto_1

      With a couple of springs it could be a quick-drop plate
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
      Writeups
      Full P1 (S40/V50/C30/C70) & P2 (S60/V70+R) LED conversion | P1 HID conversion & details | FM Modulators & interference | stalk cleaning | CEM Teardown

    30. #63
      Member carreragt7's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      So... Tempting... http://www.amazon.com/Sparco-01606S-...=pd_sbs_auto_1

      With a couple of springs it could be a quick-drop plate
      I had a set of those (exact same Sparco ones) I bought when I was helping a buddy make a CF hood a year or so ago... I might still have them somewhere.
      SATIN PEARL WHITE S40 T5 AWD with some sweet custom bodywork by concrete medians...

    31. #64
      Member MadeInJapan's Avatar
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      Least expensive OEM Skid Plate now

      I know this thread is old but I have scoured the web...and this form due to not believing that there is a plastic piece of plastic attached to the underbelly of my new S40 ('07) AWD T5 and that's all there is to protect the oil pan. Not to menetion that that piece has to come off for each and every oil change- Unbelievable!! Then I come to find out that although IPD's skid plate is on sale right now at a good price (I believe $145 or something like that), their silly logo is cut out in the aluminum at the most critical place where protection is needed, and it will allow debris in. Of course, you can do like one gentleman did here and modify the IPD plate by riveting on another piece of aluminum over the logo... So, from what I can gather the OEM plate that is apparently used in Sweden by the cops (sort of aftermarket by still Volvo OEM) is the way to go. It is thicker and does not have the inherent issue that IPD's has. If there was another company making these I would consider something else (due to the cost) but there does not seem to be. My car is already lowered so I'm a little concerned about that, but still, I'm thinking the addition of the skid plate is really necessary. I have never owned a Volvo that has not had one and I've owned many. During my search I believe I found who sells the OEM plate (at least for my T5 AWD MT) at the lowest cost...$245.42- shipping with handling is another $32...that could be a deal breaker.
      https://parts.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...umber-31269433 If anyone can find a better deal, please post back.
      Last edited by MadeInJapan; 02-28-2016 at 01:14 AM.

    32. #65

    33. #66
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      Oem Volvo aluminium plate seems the go, I've one on the way

    34. #67
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      Review the installation guide, if you haven't already. Needs modified hardware to properly install....

    35. #68
      Member MadeInJapan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hans gruber View Post
      Thanks for that link!! The only qualm I have is that there are openings in the front of that plate- what we were trying to avoid by going OEM.
      I have inquired, but do you know what he's pricing these at?
      -David

    36. #69
      Member carreragt7's Avatar
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      FWIW, I think the IPD one is pretty decent. Jacob had some very good points and made his awesome. Even with douches like me giving him a hard time about the aesthetics of his original fix, haha.

      I haven't had my IPD or stock one on for a few years as I misplaced the mountings and have never made the time to replace them. I do have a crack in my oilpan, which was existing long before I got the ipd skidplate. I have to repair it every now and then with some JB Weld Quik.

      I know some roads are full of potholes and debris, but ultimately I haven't had any real issues the past couple years in Utah and they are always having ridiculous construction projects going on.

      If you can get the IPD one for $145, I'd hop on it.
      SATIN PEARL WHITE S40 T5 AWD with some sweet custom bodywork by concrete medians...

    37. #70
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Review the installation guide, if you haven't already. Needs modified hardware to properly install....
      Thanks very much for the link. What exactly did you find needed to be modified? Or will it be obvious once I get started?

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