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    1. #71
      Junior Member briancpearce's Avatar
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      Actually had that happen to me. The hot/ cold dampers weren't working corectly and a software update fixed the problem.
      2005 S40 T5 FWD (manual of course)

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    3. #72
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      My Dad and I did the shim-removal fix over the weekend, and thankfully my A/C is now pumping better than it's ever been. Worked wonders at 93F the other day, when before it would have crapped out any higher than 86F. Ultimately there were two shims in there, one really thin one and one thicker one, and we took both of them out. Bought a feeler gauge but didn't end up using it, just went by gut instinct with regards to the gap. Rented a clutch holder (not necessary for the job, can hold it steady through other means) from AutoZone, and bought a steering wheel puller (not quite what we were looking for but it worked), and had a hell of a time getting that clutch plate off. I would say the trick to pulling the plate off was tightening the three M5 bolts all the way down and making sure they are evenly tightened, because it doesn't seem to want to come off when the pressure is not distributed perfectly around the three bolts (we went through numerous M5 bolts and washers). Another crucial element was using a phillips head M6 bolt in the center, so the tip of the center puller rod had a notch to hold steady in, so it didn't slip off when tightening. Also when all finished, make sure to hammer that bad boy back on nice and snug, and tighten the original M6 bolt down pretty good too. We did not tighten it enough on our first attempt and the clutch would not engage, so we hit it down some more and bingo. Not such a bad fix, hopefully it will last a while. Thanks!!!
      '07 S40 T5 FWD - 200k

    4. #73
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Since this is in the sticky, figured I'd update. Had this problem when it started to get hot. AC would start fine with the car, but if the compressor toggled it would never pick back up. Looked at the options, including the proper reshimming, but I figured I'd give this a try first:

      I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

      Grab some 3/8" EDIT: 3/16"? or 1/4" C EDIT: E clips:


      Locate the AC compressor. We want to shim out the bump stops:


      I found the best (by best, I mean easiest) place to insert the clips is between the bump stop and it's mounting arm. You can start it by hand. Then, clip it onto the rubber standoff. Wedging the clutch down with a screwdriver helps a lot:


      Using pliers and/or a screwdriver, shimmy the clip so the open end faces outward. This way, while it is spinning, centrifugal force will tend to keep the clip in place rather than having it fly off:


      Final result should look like this:


      Repeat for all three bump stops. This immediately fixed the issue for me.

      Last edited by theshadow27; 07-05-2012 at 11:31 PM.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    6. #74
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

      Grab some 3/8" C clips:

      I think that's a typo - 3/16" is going to be the size, right? 3/8 looks to be huge.

      In my case, something seems to have gotten in there and pushed on the rubber nubs as it spun. They're all sitting at a funny angle and seem to be slightly torn underneath. I wonder if they're available as replacement parts...
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
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    7. #75
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Since this is in the sticky, figured I'd update. Had this problem when it started to get hot. AC would start fine with the car, but if the compressor toggled it would never pick back up. Looked at the options, including the proper reshimming, but I figured I'd give this a try first:



      I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

      Grab some 3/8" C clips:

      :
      Thanks for the write up and pics! I did the same repair this weekend. So far so good.

    8. #76
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      as i said in another thread

      hey first off wanted to say thanks quality of the tech in this thread !!!

      2ND is most of these s40`s dual climate or auto cause my s40 does not have the dual & i`m have the exact same issue as the O.P. is having hopefully mine isnt the comp. clutch but its wishful thinking lol

    9. #77
      Did the same thing on Sunday, removed the thicker shim and left the small one in for a later fix, thanks to Autozone for the loaner tools, helped out greatly. No problems with A/C now and it's pushing a 100 outside today.



      Quote Originally Posted by mattt View Post
      My Dad and I did the shim-removal fix over the weekend, and thankfully my A/C is now pumping better than it's ever been. Worked wonders at 93F the other day, when before it would have crapped out any higher than 86F. Ultimately there were two shims in there, one really thin one and one thicker one, and we took both of them out. Bought a feeler gauge but didn't end up using it, just went by gut instinct with regards to the gap. Rented a clutch holder (not necessary for the job, can hold it steady through other means) from AutoZone, and bought a steering wheel puller (not quite what we were looking for but it worked), and had a hell of a time getting that clutch plate off. I would say the trick to pulling the plate off was tightening the three M5 bolts all the way down and making sure they are evenly tightened, because it doesn't seem to want to come off when the pressure is not distributed perfectly around the three bolts (we went through numerous M5 bolts and washers). Another crucial element was using a phillips head M6 bolt in the center, so the tip of the center puller rod had a notch to hold steady in, so it didn't slip off when tightening. Also when all finished, make sure to hammer that bad boy back on nice and snug, and tighten the original M6 bolt down pretty good too. We did not tighten it enough on our first attempt and the clutch would not engage, so we hit it down some more and bingo. Not such a bad fix, hopefully it will last a while. Thanks!!!

    10. #78
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      Sometimes by resetting the climate control to the factory setting, it temporary resolves the problem.

    11. #79
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      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      I think that's a typo - 3/16" is going to be the size, right? 3/8 looks to be huge.
      Good catch - I didn't actually measure but they're either 3/16" or 1/4", will update. It came in an assortment pack (quickly searching Advance, looks like Dorman 13325, see [url="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-13325/Application/?prefilter=1"]summit[/ur]) with 3 of each, so I don't have any of that size to caliper.

      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      In my case, something seems to have gotten in there and pushed on the rubber nubs as it spun. They're all sitting at a funny angle and seem to be slightly torn underneath. I wonder if they're available as replacement parts.
      My plan, when the rubber things fail (what a horrible design, shim all you want but the throwout clearance is set with rubber bump stops??) I'll probably throw some brass rivnuts + cap screws in there. If the noise is unbearable, I'd probably pony up for rubber tipped set-screws.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    12. #80
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      thank you for the c-clip idea i`m doing it tomorrow !! & will report back lol

    13. #81
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      Quote Originally Posted by mmustangsrus View Post
      thank you for the c-clip idea i`m doing it tomorrow !! & will report back lol
      Quick update. I used the c-clip method. I had to superglue them in place a few days later after the initial install. Without superglue they shifted around a lot and I probably would have lost the clips. I was surprised the superglue held them in place so good.

    14. #82
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      If this only happens when it's really hot and the shims didn't fix it try bypassing the thermal cutout http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx_nO...1&feature=plcp

    15. #83
      Junior Member smithran's Avatar
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      Wish me luck.. I just did the shim fix. It was almost too quick of a fix to be true.

    16. #84

      Problem with Air conditioner

      Does anyone know which clutch puller tool to use? I went to auto zone and the have me the puller but it doesn't fit the holding tool... Is there a video how to use a puller tool? Sorry I'm a noob

    17. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by samuelashirley View Post
      Does anyone know which clutch puller tool to use? I went to auto zone and the have me the puller but it doesn't fit the holding tool... Is there a video how to use a puller tool? Sorry I'm a noob
      Same thing, I dont know which one to rent

    18. #86
      Junior Member Methanolic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Since this is in the sticky, figured I'd update. Had this problem when it started to get hot. AC would start fine with the car, but if the compressor toggled it would never pick back up. Looked at the options, including the proper reshimming, but I figured I'd give this a try first:



      I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

      Grab some 3/8" EDIT: 3/16"? or 1/4" C EDIT: E clips:


      Locate the AC compressor. We want to shim out the bump stops:


      I found the best (by best, I mean easiest) place to insert the clips is between the bump stop and it's mounting arm. You can start it by hand. Then, clip it onto the rubber standoff. Wedging the clutch down with a screwdriver helps a lot:


      Using pliers and/or a screwdriver, shimmy the clip so the open end faces outward. This way, while it is spinning, centrifugal force will tend to keep the clip in place rather than having it fly off:


      Final result should look like this:


      Repeat for all three bump stops. This immediately fixed the issue for me.

      That is so cheesy fix.. Why not do it the "Right" way when you're at it.. I mean loosen the bolt and pull out the clutch plate and remove the shim from the axle or replace with thinner shim and done...
      V50 T5 AWD. Autospecialist Gen2 CAIS, JT Superflow 3" Cat-back, Tme 3" Downpipe+ Kemira Sportcat,Kl Racing FMIC, IPD Hd TCV

    19. #87
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Methanolic View Post
      That is so cheesy fix.. Why not do it the "Right" way when you're at it.. I mean loosen the bolt and pull out the clutch plate and remove the shim from the axle or replace with thinner shim and done...
      Not as bad as bread clips!

      Why? Because I didn't want to find/buy/rent a puller, fight with it for 3 hours, deal with getting the belt back on, and potentially mess up my clutch. This took
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    20. #88
      Junior Member Methanolic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Not as bad as bread clips!

      Why? Because I didn't want to find/buy/rent a puller, fight with it for 3 hours, deal with getting the belt back on, and potentially mess up my clutch. This took
      1. You don't need any pullers.. only 3 m5 or m6 about 5cm long bolts, tighten them on the holes in the plate even so the plate comes out nice... Sometimes you don't even need a puller, if the plate comes out nicely..

      2. You don't have to take the belts off, and the job takes about 15 minutes..
      V50 T5 AWD. Autospecialist Gen2 CAIS, JT Superflow 3" Cat-back, Tme 3" Downpipe+ Kemira Sportcat,Kl Racing FMIC, IPD Hd TCV

    21. #89
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      Thanks everyone for helping me (hopefully) fix my wife's S40 AC issue. i got the shim-mod done tonight pretty easily. Grabbed the Clutch Holder Tool from AutoZone, then rented the AC Service Kit from O-Reilly Auto (which had the clutch plate puller I needed).

      The ONE KEY thing that your fantastic write-ups were missing through, was WHERE EXACTLY those shims are located!

      I was going crazy trying to figure it out - for anyone else needed to do this mod - the shims are on the backside of the clutch plate, down in the mounting hole in the center.

      I was looking and looking around, then after going back to my bench I noticed two shims just laying there (they must have fallen out of the clutch plate when I set it on the bench).

      For whatever reason, I only had a very thin shim and a fairly thick one. I tried like hell to find the third one I thought I was supposed to have.

      At any rate, I'm hoping this fixes the issue - my local dealer was firm on the need for an entirely new Compressor Assembly, even when he knew it was just the clutch that was the issue. He tried to tell me that "you can't just buy the clutch, you have to buy the whole assembly". Nice.

    22. #90
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      I'm not exactly sure if it was discussed, but for anyone searching in the future, you do NOT need to remove the compressor from the car to remove the clutch plate. Some earlier versions of instructions someone published had that step. I did use a rental puller from O'Reilly.

    23. #91
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      E clips... Literally a 5 minute fix! The AC is now blowing colder and stronger than it has in over a year.

    24. #92
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      Hey guys-

      I posted this in the "ghetto fix" thread earlier, but it seems for suitable for this thread so I thought I'd post it here too. It's a step-by-step account of the shim-removal method I used this weekend. As others have pointed out, it hardly takes longer than the ghetto method, and seems like a much longer-term solution.

      -------------

      I'd downloaded a PDF that showed a puller made from an old brake pad, but I didn't have the time or the patience for measuring and drilling. Instead, I found the following setup did the trick just fine:

      - Rental harmonic balancer puller from Autozone
      - Three M5x30mm hex-head cap screws (Ace Hardware)
      - Three M6 fender washers (Ace Hardware)
      - Three M8 fender washers (Ace Hardware)
      - One M6x30mm hex-head bolt (Ace Hardware)
      - Blue Locktite for reassembly

      The following steps assume that you've already measured your clutch plate gap, and have removed the passenger-side front wheel and the inner fender liner:

      1. Remove the factory M6 bolt from the center of the clutch plate assembly
      2. Replace with M6x30mm bolt, threaded all the way in (but don't tighten)
      3. Stack one of each fender washer on the M5 bolts
      4. Attach the three equidistant arms of the puller to the clutch face using the M5 bolts and provided holes
      5. Thread the puller shaft into the center hole, making sure the puller is centered on the M6 bolt head
      6. Gradually tighten down the M5 bolts evenly until the clutch plate comes free
      7. Remove the puller assembly and pull the clutch plate off by hand
      8. Tap the input side of the clutch plate on a solid surface to free the shims
      9. Measure the thickness of the shims and remove whichever one allows the gap to return to spec
      10. Replace the clutch plate, add a drop of Locktite to the center bolt threads, and put it all back together

      If I'd had these directions to begin with, I'm confident the entire procedure would've been completed in well under an hour. As it was, I had to make several trips to find the correct style of puller etc., as well as figure out what hardware to use.

      All that said, I got the car back together and drove it around in 95º+ heat yesterday afternoon, and the a/c performed flawlessly. I'm glad I went this route, I expect the "repair" to last quite awhile.

    25. #93
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Not as bad as bread clips!

      Why? Because I didn't want to find/buy/rent a puller, fight with it for 3 hours, deal with getting the belt back on, and potentially mess up my clutch. This took
      You mentioned in your original post that you didn't need to jack up the car -- could you describe your method for accessing the clutch? My new (well, new to me) '08 V50 just started exhibiting this issue and I'm looking for a quick temp fix before a trip.

    26. #94
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      Quote Originally Posted by napkXC View Post
      You mentioned in your original post that you didn't need to jack up the car -- could you describe your method for accessing the clutch? My new (well, new to me) '08 V50 just started exhibiting this issue and I'm looking for a quick temp fix before a trip.
      It's just in front of the front right wheel. You can't miss it

    27. #95
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      It's just in front of the front right wheel. You can't miss it
      Ha-- I'll have to go have another look. Are you pulling back the fender liner?

    28. #96
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      Quote Originally Posted by napkXC View Post
      Ha-- I'll have to go have another look. Are you pulling back the fender liner?
      Yes, you'll need to pull it back.
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    29. #97
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      Quote Originally Posted by Veefifty T5AWD View Post
      Yes, you'll need to pull it back.
      Thanks!

    30. #98
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      I just used a pair of ramps, I didn't have to pull back the liner then. If you're just checking to see if the clutch is engaging, you should be able to see that just from putting your head to the ground and looking under the right side of the front bumper.

    31. #99
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      I just used a pair of ramps, I didn't have to pull back the liner then. If you're just checking to see if the clutch is engaging, you should be able to see that just from putting your head to the ground and looking under the right side of the front bumper.
      Awesome -- that info was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

    32. #100
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      I attempted the shim repair Friday evening with e-clips from Auto Zone. With a set of ramps I was easily able to access the clutch. Didn't have too much trouble getting the clips between the bump stop and arm. Unfortunately, the fix did not work for me. I tried a few different size clips to be certain. While thinking over the steps, I realized I never attempted tapping the clutch after I noted that it was not engaging in the first place. Tried tapping on the clutch face after the e-clip fix with a broom stick, still no luck. Any ideas? Perhaps it's time to order the replacement part.

    33. #101
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      Quote Originally Posted by napkXC View Post
      I attempted the shim repair Friday evening with e-clips from Auto Zone. With a set of ramps I was easily able to access the clutch. Didn't have too much trouble getting the clips between the bump stop and arm. Unfortunately, the fix did not work for me. I tried a few different size clips to be certain. While thinking over the steps, I realized I never attempted tapping the clutch after I noted that it was not engaging in the first place. Tried tapping on the clutch face after the e-clip fix with a broom stick, still no luck. Any ideas? Perhaps it's time to order the replacement part.
      After reading a few other threads again, I think I've got the next step. I did notice while inserting the e-clips that it was very difficult to spin the clutch at all, and barely had to hold it in place during the procedure. That would lead me to believe the issue is inside the clutch- perhaps I need to check the clearance and remove one of the original shims, or just replace the entire clutch while I'm down there. Sorry to brainstorm and spam up this thread! Thanks again everyone for the help.

    34. #102
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      Problem with Air conditioner

      Does your A/C ever blow cold? This clutch spacing/gap fix is meant to address the symptoms of cold A/C for a few minutes, then none, or diminished A/C performance after that.

      If yours never blows cold, it may not have freon. The compressor only runs if other sensors indicate there is sufficient freon.

      Before you go ripping into the clutch, measure the clutch gap with a feeler gauge. Should be between .012" and .022". A .024" feeler should be a "No Go".

      Good luck.
      | 1995 855 Turbo (mine, retiring) 300k | 2003 XC70 (mine) 225K | 2007 XC90 V8 (hers) 98k |
      | 1998 V70 NA (retired) 215k | 1995 855 (saved my life 2012 ) | 1971 Chevy C30 Dually Flatbed (farm truck)

    35. #103
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      Quote Originally Posted by bootsie View Post
      Does your A/C ever blow cold? This clutch spacing/gap fix is meant to address the symptoms of cold A/C for a few minutes, then none, or diminished A/C performance after that.

      If yours never blows cold, it may not have freon. The compressor only runs if other sensors indicate there is sufficient freon.

      Before you go ripping into the clutch, measure the clutch gap with a feeler gauge. Should be between .012" and .022". A .024" feeler should be a "No Go".

      Good luck.
      Interesting -- I am learning more and more. It has stopped blowing cold entirely. For a few weeks prior however, it would cycle between cold, warm, kind of cold -- somewhat intermittently. It was subtle at first, then Thursday night last week peaked with only blowing warm air.

    36. #104
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      Took the V50 to a Jiffy Lube that offers A/C evacuation and recharge service -- they couldn't find the lines. I pointed out where the compressor was, but didn't know where to direct them beyond that. Guess next time I'll bring a printed out schematic...

    37. #105
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      Problem with Air conditioner

      Do yourself one better: don't go to jiffy lube or the like for more than oil changes. And some would argue they're not worth it for that.

      I'm not just being cynical; folks that try to work on A/C without knowing how (or being able to find the lines) can do more damage than good.
      | 1995 855 Turbo (mine, retiring) 300k | 2003 XC70 (mine) 225K | 2007 XC90 V8 (hers) 98k |
      | 1998 V70 NA (retired) 215k | 1995 855 (saved my life 2012 ) | 1971 Chevy C30 Dually Flatbed (farm truck)

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