Clank/Clunk/Thud noise when accelerating
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    1. #1
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      Clank/Clunk/Thud noise when accelerating

      So I have had this problem for a while. My 1990 240DL (wagon M47 trans) makes a pretty loud "clank" whenever I accelerate. So far I have replaced:

      Trailing arm bushings
      Torque rods and bushings
      Transmission Mount (about 20,000-30,000 miles ago)
      center support bearing and rubber mount
      front swaybar endlinks


      What should I check/replace next?

      thanks,
      Mike

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    3. #2
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      Welcome to Swedespeed, Mike.

      More ideas on the clank...

      Motor/trans (again) mounts.
      Harmonic balancer.
      Shift bush/linkage.
      U-jnts/front driveshaft bush.

      Check the clearances at/near the cat and other exhaust components for interference by adjacent hard components.

      While under the hood run the engine at varying rpm looking for any large movement by the engine which could cause hard points to hit adjacent components.

      What other repairs/replacements have you done recently?

      George Dill

    4. #3
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      I did put a new exhaust on (the ipd "non-turbo sport exhaust"), maybe I need to check the clearance on that. I haven't really done anything else mechanical recently, just some electrical stuff (fuel pump relay, fuses, etc). The "clank" (i dont know what to call this noise) sounds like it is right in the center of the car.

      A visual inspection of the trans mount shows no cracks or tears, but maybe I should just replace it regardless?

      I have replaced, twice actually, the rearmost u-joint that connects to the differential gearbox (a pain since i dont have a press). I have never touched the one right before the center support bearing. What is the easiest way to clearly identify a bad u-joint?

      Also, something I have noticed recently is that the drive shaft has a lot of free play-i can move the center of it up and down about 2-3 inches. Perhaps that further narrows the solution suggestions?

      What is the "front driveshaft bushing"? Is that the "flex joint" that the manuals use instead of a third u-joint? I have never replaced that (can't get it off)-maybe I should.

      I will check out the engine mounts as well, although I can't do any of this until tomorrow.

      Sorry for my lack of volvo knowledge (and enormous amount of questions). I am trying to get up to speed as quickly as possible on all this stuff. The car has specific quirks that I am learning slowly. Thanks for the help

      Mike

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    6. #4
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      The more questions the better - answers are not always correct.

      "The clank sounds like it is right in the center of the car."

      The driveshaft should have very little free play throughout. The center support bearing and bush has more than two applications for the 240 as the years went by.

      The flex joint replaces the front u-jnt on some 240's.

      The easiest way to detect a bad u-joint is during its removal when installing a new one. If the car has been operated with 2-3" of slop in the driveshaft then all replaceable parts have been put under much stress.

      You do not need a press to correctly remove/install a u-joint.

      Did you install the ipd exhaust or a shop? Welded or clamps?

      http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Tran...-1-69-266-673/

      George Dill

    7. #5
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      So should I just replace the rubber drive line mount? For starters at least?

      Is there any way to know a flex joint is bad without completely removing it?

      I will probably replace both u-joints when I found out what the source of the drive shaft "slop" is. I used a hammer and a properly sized socket to drive out the u-joint the past two times. Should I be replacing the bolts holding the flange to the differential every time I remove the drive shaft? I have read in a couple of places that you should, and others that it doesn't matter.

      I installed the exhaust myself, but it was difficult to mount correctly, so I had the shop finish it. It is put together with clamps, not welds.

      thanks
      mike

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by mtd240 View Post
      So should I just replace the rubber drive line mount? For starters at least?
      Look to minimize your time, labor and money outlay in solving the "clank". If you are doing the work youself with the car supported (properly and safely) on jackstands then you know how much effort is expended in just getting ready to do work under the car. First, gather the correct new parts, new front flex-joint, new u-jnts, new center support bush and bearing (and related components), new flange bolts, new trans mount (if needed) and new shift linkage bushing(s?). Now you are ready to solve the free-play problem in the driveshaft.

      This may not fix the "clank".

      The ips free-flow non-turbo exhaust system for the 240 is a real bear to get aligned properly throughout the system. You MUST have the car on a lift with normal weight on all four wheels, 1/2 tank of gas and the usual driver seated during the re-alignment. Loosen ALL clamps and mounts on the entire exhaust system including the cat. Now work from the front of the car and reposition each exhaust component to eliminate any interference from adjacent hard points. DO NOT tighten any clamps/mounts until the entire exhaust is conflict-free. Just be certain that any already-adjusted exhaust components do not shift while making downstream adjustments. Final tight on clamps must be uniform on each thread and must not be too tight as this distorts the pipes under the clamp causing leaks.

      Have you checked the cat heat shield and internals for rattles/clanks?

      George Dill

    9. #7
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      When I get enough money (hopefully soon), ill have a "volvo driveline day" and replace all of the things you listed (although I may do the trans mount seperately).

      As for the exhaust..I wish I had a lift. I could only hope that the mechanic used the method you described - I don't think I could do that with jackstands. I will get under the car and check for clearance as best i can though.

      I haven't ever taken a look at the catalytic converter, should I take it out and look at it? If so, how do I do it or what do I look for?

      Thanks
      Mike

    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by mtd240 View Post
      I haven't ever taken a look at the catalytic converter, should I take it out and look at it? If so, how do I do it or what do I look for?
      Just put a new cat on your list of things to do unless you know the history on the existing converter.

      Removing the cooked-on cat is a real pain but that is the only way to check it for obstructions.

      Easier to just install a new one (not OE Volvo).

      George Dill

    11. #9
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      Thanks for the info george, I will put that on my list (endless haha).

    12. #10
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      mike any luck on resolving the clanking sound problem? i recently had some repair done on the section of pipe forward of the cat and i get a loud thud if i hit a bump or pothole. if its at speeds between 35 to 60 then the thud would stay and become a shudder. people sitting int eh passenger seat would always tell me its right under their feet. so i am pretty sure thats the problem.
      george, do yo know if there is some kind of retraint for the cat and the forward piping? or should those parts stay loose?

    13. #11
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      No luck yet...I am thinking it is the motor/trans mounts. I have the parts already..Im gonna go ahead and swap em out. They need to be replaced anyways (motor mounts MIGHT be original...)

    14. #12
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      On a 240 OE exhaust sytem the manifold and headpipe are the stable points and the piping/cat/muffler(s) hang suspended.

      "...right under their feet..." could be sheared motor/trans mounts allowing the hard points to touch the floor under accel/braking.

      George Dill

    15. #13
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      george, do you mean the motor is hanging without all mounting points secured? i also hear the thug usually 2 or 3 times in quick succession as i start the car. it seems the torque of the engine starting up may be causing the thud, in which case problem with mount seem likely. mike, how difficult is it to replace the mounts? im handy but have never worked on cars. and i dont have an indoor garage.

    16. #14
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      The motor and tranny mounts get soft with time and wear (and can shear too) which throws things out of whack and can cause the exhaust system to hit various and sundry underbody parts. I get the same knocks and bangs to some degree on both my 244s (both over 300,000 km) due to mounts that need replacing sometime soon.
      '88 244 auto (parts car), '89 244 5 spd. (daily driver), '92 245 5 spd. (my car) '80 Holiday Rambler/Ford E350 (tow vehicle and track crash pad), '95 GMC K2500 (local hauler/back-up tow vehicle), '83 Mazda RX7 (race car when I have the funds), '99 Miska 20' car hauler.

      The man's prayer: "I'm a man, but I can change, ... if I have to, ... I guess."

    17. #15
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      I didn't have enough time to see if anyone mentioned this, but when you changed the center support doughnut, did you make sure the splines on the driveshaft lined up the exact same way they came off? If not, it will be unbalanced and need to be fixed.

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