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    1. #36
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      I'll take and upload a photo if the the shell can be dismantled without damage.
      Take a picture anyway, for posterity, post it here https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ead-this/page3
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    3. #37
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      Thanks to theshadow for the BOWE, I installed it today and everything seems to be working with 35w DDMs.

      Unlike that other thread, I did not find the E46 projectors to be a direct drop in. However he used the BiXenon and I have the lowbeam only ones. Instead I used a set of bixenon E55s which went in with minimal modification to the projector. No modification of the headlight was necessary.

      Now that I have everything working there are a few issues that I still need to sort out. The back covers to the lights no longer fit and I'm not sure how I should secure the ballasts. Also how have you sealed the headlight back up without the rear cap?

      Thanks for the help
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    4. #38
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      Quote Originally Posted by unrlmth View Post
      Thanks to theshadow for the BOWE, I installed it today and everything seems to be working with 35w DDMs.
      Good to hear!

      Quote Originally Posted by unrlmth View Post
      Now that I have everything working there are a few issues that I still need to sort out. The back covers to the lights no longer fit and I'm not sure how I should secure the ballasts. Also how have you sealed the headlight back up without the rear cap?

      You have to drill a hole in the back cover for the power and HV wires, and use a grommet to seal the hole. Aftermarket bulbs come with this grommet but with a retrofit you probably have to do it yourself. The grommet looks something like this (random hijacked picture):

      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    6. #39
      Junior Member Guru's Avatar
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      So my HID set arrived today, still waiting for the BOWEs.
      Out of curiosity I opened up one of the ballasts to see how it looked like inside, does this look like a quality build? This is a 90$ kit on sale claiming to be digital, orig. price was 160$ ... Your thoughts please:







      Last edited by Guru; 01-24-2011 at 10:59 AM.
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    7. #40
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      That's a standard 4th gen knockoff from China. Exactly the same inside as the $40 DDM kits (which they no longer sell ) Since you broke the adhesion, make sure to put more heatsink compound on the thermal transfer pad before you seal it back up.

      It is digital meaning that the ballast controls current through the bulb using a microprocessor. Digital does not mean that it talks to the car in any way, or that it is better for the car than an analog ballast. It's like saying you have a HDTV instead of an analog CRT TV - regardless of the TV technology, it doesn't change how a standard SD channel is displayed.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    8. #41
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      Thanks for the reply Jakob! and for the advice on putting more thermal compound beneath the heat sink. I have some left over AC MX-2 from when I exchanged the stock cooler of my graphics card for an Arctic Accelero, is it ok to use that type of thermal compound?
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    9. #42
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      Assuming you mean Arctic Silver (AS) MX-2 yeah that's fine. Just a dab. These things get pretty hot - in general if you can physically bolt it to a metal panel it will do better than if it's zip-tied to a coolant hose.

      BTW - see that 25V 1,000uF capacitor? That's the input bypass capacitor. There's another 4,400uF in the BOW-3. The one in the KBOWE is 36,000uF - so 6 times more - so even with the BOW-3 and the internal bypass it's only 15% of what is required to keep the WMM safe. I'm stealing that picture btw
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    10. #43
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      Be my guest Jakob and once the BOWEs arrive, i'll be taking pics of their intestines too, then I'll post those up and wait for your approval. they cost 24 Euros each which is about $32 so I hope they'll be up to the job.

      You can't risk driving without functioning wipers here in Europe, it showers even in July, so blowing the WMM is the absolute last thing I would want to do, I have Philips NightGuide type S installed now as halogens and I can't complain about their illumination, they're pretty good... but I'm just curious about the benefit I'll gain by walking that extra mile; going with xenons that is.

      p.s. which BOWE out of all the BOWEs involved is the KBOWE?
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    11. #44
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      Thanks for the help everyone. Got it all finished up today, washed it and took a few pics.







      And my workspace before I cleaned everything up.

      Last edited by unrlmth; 01-25-2011 at 04:35 PM.
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    12. #45
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      Beautiful car unrlmth, and good work, any chance of a night shot to see the light pattern of those E55s?
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    13. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      which BOWE out of all the BOWEs involved is the KBOWE?
      KBOWE is the one that I designed with a diode and large capacitor per side, as per the instructions in my signature. Since it had to be called something to differentiate it from the rest of the cancelers/eliminators, we named it humorously as the "Kyle Bulb Out Warning Eliminator" because the one I built writing that tutorial was for Kyle (aka ForceFed).
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    14. #47
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      Beautiful car unrlmth, and good work, any chance of a night shot to see the light pattern of those E55s?
      Yea I will, but I still have a few small tweaks to make with the aiming and connect the solenoids for the high beams. The beam pattern is pretty much identical to the e55 shots in this thread: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/cont...-FX-IS-e46-LR3

      I also used the ZKW lenses which help a little bit with the output and cut-off.
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    15. #48
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      BTW - see that 25V 1,000uF capacitor? That's the input bypass capacitor. There's another 4,400uF in the BOW-3. The one in the KBOWE is 36,000uF - so 6 times more - so even with the BOW-3 and the internal bypass it's only 15% of what is required to keep the WMM safe.
      Ok, I might be suggesting something silly now, but just theoretically speaking and forgetting for now about size limitations: if I were to scrape the rubber insulator off that input bypass cap, cut it out, and then weld in its place one of these>



      from HERE for example,

      would I be doing something useless/ineffective/stupid?
      btw, the BOWEs I've ordered still haven't arrived.
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    16. #49
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      Ok, I might be suggesting something silly now, but just theoretically speaking and forgetting for now about size limitations: if I were to scrape the rubber insulator off that input bypass cap, cut it out, and then weld in its place one of these 40,000 microfarad capacitors would I be doing something useless/ineffective/stupid?
      Other than the obvious size issue, and waterproofing of the HID module, that would work perfectly. The thing about capacitors is they add up in parallel (when put across the + and - wires) so a 1,000 + 40,000 = 41,000uF. That means that you don't even have to cut apart the case to do the same thing - you just put the big capacitor outside, across the + and - input wires. And that, good sir, is essentially what the KBOWE is - not magic or even rocket science!

      If you feel confident in your ability to cut out the capacitor in the HID ballast, you have more then enough skill to assemble a KBOWE. It's four components, five wires, and eight solder connections. It can go anywhere between the CEM and the HID ballast. The only difference is the addition of a diode which reduces the change of damage to the WMM from the noise the ballast produces.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    17. #50
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      It's not assembling a KBOWE I'm worried about Jakob, I believe I can handle that, it's the intrusion in to the CEM harness to hook up the KBOWE that's discouraging, that's the only thing I do not want to do "for now", that's why I'm twisting and turning trying to find a bypass to that invasive maneuver.
      You see, I do not care not one bit about this HID kit I bought, if I damage/destroy it by tinkering with it's caps and rubber then so be it, at least I'll have the joy of a failed experiment and go on to order another kit, but I do not want to risk damaging my car in anyway

      I think I should wait and see what turns up in the mail, perhaps the caps in the ordered BOWEs, if they turn out to be rubbish, will be easier to exchange with better ones, and perhaps those BOWEs will have the protective diode too, we'll just have to wait and see... my only hope is that it will be possible to open up those BOWEs without having to "force an entry"

      Thanks for now for all your help and support Jacob, I appreciate it. :thumbs up
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    18. #51
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      Oh. Why didn't you say that before? You can make a KBOWE so that no wires have to be cut at all - it's just twice as expensive as doing it the other way. The main difference is you need two enclosures, and four sets of superseal connectors (shells, pins, seals) with the crimping tool, and two ground leads. Other than that, it's exactly the same. Actually if you don't mind hacking up the kit, you could do it without the connectors.

      The downside to doing it this way is the theoretical lifespan of the capacitor is reduced due to the high temps in the engine bay. A 105*C cap that's rated to 6000 hours at 105*C will likely last 12000 hours at 50*C. They also don't like living below -15*C or so, which the interior almost never falls below because of insulation and the greenhouse effect. So will reduce the lifespan of the unit, but realistically if you check it every few years and don't mind replacing it in the future it will be just fine.

      As far as finding a suitable comercial product, I'm curious but highly skeptical - I looked extensivly before I wrote up that tutorial. In fact, I've been working to get companies *to* develop a product so I don't have to do this any more If you do find one, it will make the front page of the how-to guide. Otherwise, I'll put together a tutorial on the other way...
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    19. #52
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      Hi Jakob, these finally arrived in the mail today>
      The BOWEs I ordered:









      The cap in that commercial build has these specs: 2200uf/25V -40+105

      What's the gigantic coil for?

      Do you think I'll be safe to go with these Jakob? ... I doubt it personally, but I'll wait for your opinion. thx.
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    20. #53
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      I forgot to mention that I have the DRL function turned off by software from factory, if that makes any difference.
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    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      The BOWEs I ordered... The cap in that commercial build has these specs: 2200uf/25V -40+105
      Very cool - thanks for the pictures. It is nice to see one apart without all the epoxy (although electronics not set in epoxy or silicone don't belong in the engine bay!!). This seems to be similar to the dissected DDM one, without the addition of the diode and ceramic capacitor.

      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      What's the gigantic coil for?
      The coil (DC choke, actually) and 10nF caps form an LC filter designed to prevent the HF noise generated by the ballast (on top of a steady DC supply) from interfering with a headlight monitoring system. The 2,200uF capacitor is to smooth out voltage fluctuations. The diode shunts negative spikes on +12 back to ground. It looks similar to the KBOWE, but the only common function is the big capacitor.

      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      Do you think I'll be safe to go with these
      I would not recommend using that as-is. The capacitor is just too small. It could be modified to work fairly easily - there's even an empty spot for another capacitor.

      If I were you, I would order 4x 10,000uF or 12,000uF 25V or 35 capacitors -- something that looks like this or this or this - you want (1) a high temp range, preferably -40-105c, (2) equal to or greater than 25V. Solder two of the caps to each board. Then pot the whole thing in high-temp epoxy or RTV silicone.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    22. #55
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      I forgot to mention that I have the DRL function turned off by software from factory, if that makes any difference.
      Oh.

      Theoretically disabling DRLs eliminates the problem. I have not personally measured a vehicle with DRL disable to confirm this, but it seems to be the consensus. Do you have a multimeter that measures AC?

      In any case, it would not hurt to use them anyway (since you've already got them, right?). I would do is solder another ground wire to the negative in the commercial adapter, and bolt the ground lead directly to the frame (on each side). And pot (cover completely inside an enclosure) the electronics in silicone or epoxy, otherwise they will be eaten alive from vibration and heat.
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    23. #56
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      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      If I were you, I would order 4x 10,000uF or 12,000uF 25V or 35 capacitors -- you want (1) a high temp range, preferably -40-105c, (2) equal to or greater than 25V. Solder two of the caps to each board. Then pot the whole thing in high-temp epoxy or RTV silicone.
      Will do chief, so get rid of the lousy 2200uf that's already in there, and replace with 2x 10,000 or 12,000uf caps.

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Do you have a multimeter that measures AC?
      I knew I had one somewhere>


      Now, what do I do with it?

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      I would do is solder another ground wire to the negative in the commercial adapter, and bolt the ground lead directly to the frame (on each side).


      Which commercial adapter do you mean chief? A, B or C?
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    24. #57
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      Will do chief, so get rid of the lousy 2200uf that's already in there, and replace with 2x 10,000 or 12,000uf caps.
      You got it.

      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      Now, what do I do with it?
      Stick it across a headlight bulb while the car is running. The easiest way to do this is probably use the wires that run between A and B on your diagram to hook the low beam connector to the high beam halogen bulb (which should be 9005). This will provide the same load on the system but allow you to probe the B connectors. Once this is set up, start the car and make sure the bulb is on (so the normal side has the low beam on and the rigged side has the high beam on with power running through the B connectors to the bulb plugged in at A). Now connect the DMM in 20V *DC* range (to the left on the dial) and verify that there is ~12V between the red and black wires (red lead to red wire, black lead to black wire) at the B terminals. Then, switch the DMM to the 200V *AC* range, and connect the leads in exactly the same way. If the meter reads 0.00 in the AC range than there's no PWM.

      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      Which commercial adapter do you mean chief? A, B or C?
      I was referring to soldering onto the circuit board in the box between the A and C terminals, however you could tap the black wire anywhere between the A and B terminals and achieve the same effect.

      Remember to fill that (A-C) box with RTV silicone before you mount it in the car!
      Last edited by theshadow27; 01-31-2011 at 03:58 PM. Reason: clarification
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    25. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      That's gotta be one of the worst board construction jobs I've ever seen, can't quite tell from the pics but looks to have cold solder joints (one looks like it didn't even get fully soldered top right center), the component leads look to bent by hand at any angle that would allow them to be inserted into the board, the exposed portions of the copper were tinned by hand for whatever reason (guessing because the card wasn't recoated to prevent corrosion) and the wires are bird caged. This combined with the small caps will really reduce the reliability of it. How much did you pay for those and which company is selling them? After looking that over I'd be inclined to build a seperate unit or at a minimum fix the cold solder joints.
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      I thought so too, wasn't at all impressed with the quality... Company name is unknown, they carry the code name HID_elim but that means nothing in my opinion..
      Could you please be a bit more specific about those cold solder joints, which ones do you mean, and what kind fix do you have in mind? re-soldering?

      oh, and they cost me 44 euros or $58 ... yes, I know
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    27. #60
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      I don't think the board looks *that* bad. The exposed solder is to increase the current carrying capacity of the copper trace, which is standard practice. It looks off but that's just the color of the Chinese "lead-free" solder, caused by the high tin content. It does look like the wires were hand-soldered but the only one I'd be concerned about is bottom left, and even that is probably just flux inclusions and nothing to be worried about.

      The part that bothers me is the quality of the components (e.g. I know it's a diode from the way it's wired but it has no visible markings), but that only matters for the electrolytic cap since the rest will fail open. The ceramic caps aren't realistically doing anything, but taking them out doesn't accomplish anything.

      Overall though the biggest concern is that it's unpotted. Even the best components will fail due to repetitive motion stress from vibration, and the lead-free solder only makes that worse.

      @Guru: the way to fix a solder joint is to re-solder it (heat it all the way back up, apply some more solder, let it cool down) but if I'm right and that is PBFree then you'll need to remove all the old solder before new solder will bond right. At that point you might as well throw the board away and just re-use the connectors...
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    28. #61
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      I thought so too, wasn't at all impressed with the quality... Company name is unknown, they carry the code name HID_elim but that means nothing in my opinion..
      Could you please be a bit more specific about those cold solder joints, which ones do you mean, and what kind fix do you have in mind? re-soldering?

      oh, and they cost me 44 euros or $58 ... yes, I know
      The ones that look like cold solder joints are the two in the center of the top copper trace, the right most one on the left copper trace and two center ones on the bottom copper trace (you have an arrow pointing at the one on the right and then the one to the right of the arrow). Knowing the chinese its probably not lead free solder, but certainly looks like it is or possibly solder paste was used with a hot air jet for tinning the traces or maybe even a soldering iron as you can see tool marks in the trace. Even if the solder is PB free you should be able to get the old solder off with some wicking material and liquid or paste flux to aid in the removal, but unless your an experienced solderer then you may not want to try this as you may cause more damage than good. At a minimum I'd try reheating those joints in question after you check for yourself whether they are cold joints (no luster and lack of a nice uniform slope, rather than a glob is what a cold joint looks like). Not saying they will fail, but if they are cold joints it will greatly increase the chance of failure due to increased resistance or failure of the solder connections. If you do fix them and use flux, make sure you clean the board very good with isoproply alcohol (sp?) as the flux is highly corrosive.

      @ Shadow, In the military we don't tin the whole copper trace unless its a repair and even then its mainly to add strength as the trace thickness is selected based on current capacity required and the final step is cover everything in conformal coating again (usually epoxy), and none of these joints, components or wires would pass a 2M inspection.
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    29. #62
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      Quote Originally Posted by slrising View Post
      @ Shadow, In the military we don't tin the whole copper trace unless its a repair and even then its mainly to add strength as the trace thickness is selected based on current capacity required and the final step is cover everything in conformal coating again (usually epoxy), and none of these joints, components or wires would pass a 2M inspection.
      It's not fair to compare milspec with a brand-less aftermarket product... If this particular thing was built for the US military, well, correct me if I'm wrong but:
      - The whole thing would be in a gasketed OD aluminum enclosure with integrated heatsink fins, rated for shock, corrosion, and watertightness (instead of plastic)
      - PC board would be ceramic or aluminum substrate with 2 or 4 oz copper plating (instead of FR-4 and 1/2 oz copper)
      - The board would be shock mounted to the chassis (vs dangling from wires)
      - The components would be military ranged, high temperature, ruggedized, and serial numbered (vs no name and unmarked)
      - External connections would be twist-lock panel mounted to the chassis, with dust covers. Internal would be locking screw terminals (vs dangling wires)
      - It would be able to handle 100 sets of HIDs with 6-1200V input and 1%-100% duty cycle PWM (vs 1 set with 9-12V input and 90-100% duty cycle)
      - Prior to shipping, it would be tested at these conditions for an extended period of time, and stamped by several QC inspections (vs not so much).
      - Each unit would cost about $12,000, and measure 6"x4"x4" (vs $30 and 2"x0.75"x0.75")


      One milspec capacitor could easily cost more than this entire thing cost to manufacture... If the aftermarket built electronics like the military we'd all be broke.

      I still agree with you, sort of: This is an example of consumer-grade electronics being applied in an application that requires automotive grade electronics. The main differences between consumer and automotive is temperature range (0-85c vs -40-105c), safety factor (50% SF vs 100%-200%+ SF), connector weatherproofing, and potting. From what I've seen in exterior automotive, conformal isn't a distinct step since the same effect provided by the potting compound and there is rarely field maintenance of the individual modules (interior electronics usually get conformal and are not potted, but it's for cost savings rather than a technical reason).
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    30. #63
      Member slrising's Avatar
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      Well milspec isn't quite that insane all the time, and we do have electronics being used indoors and outdoors contain inside of other equipment much like and engine bay that would come built like that (ie enclosure type , basic board design type and not always shock mounted) but the solder joints would be perfect, the tinning if utilized would be perfect, the bends and shaping of the components leads would be perfect to reduce the chance of component break down and failure due to the bends being to close to the components and possibly damaging them or risking internal exposure to the elements, the cuts of the components would be a perfect 90 degree cut, same for wires 90*, perfect length of insulation stripped and cut at 90*, no bird cagging and no tool marks and the board designed around the components not the other way around and then at a minimum coated. Anyway you get the picture, I see nothing close to this and comparing to many other conusmer electronics these appear very low quality which should be expected with the no name, but for the price I'd be pissed if I received something like this. I know the comparison to milspec isn't justified but these just look like junk, maybe I'm spoiled!?
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    31. #64
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      Quote Originally Posted by slrising View Post
      these appear very low quality which should be expected with the no name, but for the price I'd be pissed if I received something like this. I know the comparison to milspec isn't justified but these just look like junk, maybe I'm spoiled!?
      I'd be pissed at the price too - or more accurately, I wouldn't have ordered them in the first place

      And, yes, I think you're spoiled (but that won't stop me from asking you for a list of inspection criteria for me to evaluate my work with). My dad used to take me to flee markets and yard sales to pick up old electronics to take apart, and in the 15 or so years since then I've taken just about anything I can get my hands on into little pieces. If I had to rank this on a quality scale of 1-10, with a 10 being my trusty 30 year old PP-6148/U (NSN 6130-01-062-3618) 10A Battery Charger/Power Supply, I'd put it at a 3.5 or so. You really don't want to know what a 1 is.
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    32. #65
      Junior Member Guru's Avatar
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      I don't think slrising is spoiled, the first thing that came to my mind after dismantling those BOWEs was how awful the boards looked, however the casing and outside wirings and connectors are of fairly good quality. I would have returned them for a refund but dismantling meant taking of the foil-like sticker to reach the underlying screws. Oh, and shipping cost as much as the two BOWEs so half the price I paid was just for postage.

      The problem I'm facing right now is finding a stronger electrolyte cap that would fit inside the casing, the case is 7x3x2.5 cm (LxWxH) but that DC choke is taking up half the space inside...

      I'm stuck
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    33. #66
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      Quote Originally Posted by Guru View Post
      The problem I'm facing right now is finding a stronger electrolyte cap that would fit inside the casing, the case is 7x3x2.5 cm (LxWxH) but that DC choke is taking up half the space inside...

      I'm stuck
      Nonsense. Wait till this weekend and I'll do a writeup on how to make a KBOWE using your connectors (or ones like them). Then you throw out the PCB and just use the case.

      Did you measure the voltages yet?
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    34. #67
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      There is A LOT of good info here and I am trying to sort it out and get it straight. I definitely want more light than stock halogens and want to keep them white (slight blue is ok).
      - It sounds like I should go with 5000K in either 35W or 50W. How much improvement would the 35W provide over halognes? Is there a disadvantage with the 50W?
      - Since I have my DRLs disabled, does this eliminate the wiper motor issue?
      - I assume that I would still may have the BOW to deal with, true?
      - Any other concerns?
      - Which is a reputable brand?

      Thanks in advance
      Stan
      Thanks
      Stan

    35. #68
      Member theshadow27's Avatar
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      Just my $0.02:

      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      It sounds like I should go with 5000K in either 35W or 50W. How much improvement would the 35W provide over halognes? Is there a disadvantage with the 50W?
      5000K in 35W or 6000K in 50W will be the closest to "pure" white. 4300K will be grungy in either power, closer to sunlight.

      Advantage is performance:

      1250 – 1400 lm : 55 watt standard halogen bulb
      1500 – 1650 lm : 55 watt performance halogen bulb (Philips 50+, PIAA 55=110 etc)
      3000 – 3200 lm : 35 watt HID conversion
      4600 – 5300 lm : 50 watt HID conversion

      The disadvantage to higher wattage is reduced bulb life, however it's still several times that of the OEM bulb:

      350 - 550 hours : 55 watt standard halogen bulb
      50 - 250 hours : 55 watt performance halogen bulb
      3000 - 4000 hours : 35 watt HID conversion
      1500 – 2500 hours : 50 watt HID conversion

      When an HID bulb fails it can be replaced just like a halogen. A matched pair of bulbs is generally $30-40 USD (same price as performance halogen)

      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      - Since I have my DRLs disabled, does this eliminate the wiper motor issue?
      There's not enough data to give a definitive answer here, but most likely DRL disable will prevent WMM issues by disabling PWM modulation voltage regulation. Adding a BOWE is cheap insurance and can't hurt anything.

      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      - I assume that I would still may have the BOW to deal with, true?
      35W maybe, 50/55W no (since it draws the same power as the stock bulb).

      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      - Any other concerns?
      Consider a projector retrofit for best results, although the stock projector performs nicely nothing can compare to an e46/e55 assembly. Talk to matt at theretrofitsource.com.

      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      - Which is a reputable brand?
      The best that I have found is HID50, though they are a bit pricey and based in the UK. They hand-pick components for their ballasts, each one is burned in for 24 hours to check for defects, and they are rated to run continuously underwater. I've got two pairs, one in the car and one as a spare, but the one in the car has been just fine for almost 3 years now.

      SharpHID/DDM "slim" are cheap kits of decent quality, although DDM stopped carrying HIDs recently some still may be floating around. Before I found HID50 I was using 55W DDM slims.

      Many folks swear by kaixen, but they are only 35W and I haven't seen a ballast myself to attest to the quality.
      Last edited by theshadow27; 02-03-2011 at 07:23 AM. Reason: disadvantage
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    36. #69
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      Hey thanks for the info. I had not thought about replacing the projectors but I may consider it.
      Stan

    37. #70
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      The retrofit source also has great ballasts that are rated to run under water as well. I got my Morimoto (Japan) ballasts from them, they are a little expensive but well worth it IMO. I believe they also have Matsu****a (Japan again) ballasts and Denso ballasts as well.
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