DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End - Page 9
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    1. #281
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      The answer is likely that you are not accounting for pin C3:16 which I believe provides bootstrap power to turn-on the high current line that enters via the C1. Generally, you should only be removing those wires in the diagram that go to speakers. All other wiring needs to be maintained. Since its almost been 10yrs since I did this I don't remember if you'll need more than the Red one in 16.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

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    3. #282
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      That was my 1st thought when it no longer worked, however if you look at the picture below, this is what I'd used to test initially and as you can see, none of the wires were connected, other than a speaker on the LF pins.

      http://imgur.com/BOk3GJf

      I simply unplugged the factory connector and plugged this in and it worked fine. The only thing I can think of currently is that a pin is not seating fully when I plug that connector in, even though it feels completely locked into place.

    4. #283
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      Quote Originally Posted by abcdefghii View Post
      That was my 1st thought when it no longer worked, however if you look at the picture below, this is what I'd used to test initially and as you can see, none of the wires were connected, other than a speaker on the LF pins.

      http://imgur.com/BOk3GJf

      I simply unplugged the factory connector and plugged this in and it worked fine. The only thing I can think of currently is that a pin is not seating fully when I plug that connector in, even though it feels completely locked into place.
      I am not sure from your quoted response what worked fine as I don't see the red wire in your picture. I can say that if you want to use only one connector, then you must transfer over at least the original connector's Red Pin 16 to your new one or it won't work properly. I did not need to do this as I was keeping all of the speakers connected to the factory amp and thus was using the adapter as an elaborate tap leaving all wires passing through.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

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    6. #284
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I am not sure from your quoted response what worked fine as I don't see the red wire in your picture. I can say that if you want to use only one connector, then you must transfer over at least the original connector's Red Pin 16 to your new one or it won't work properly.
      No problem, what I'm saying worked was that I was getting an output and everything was functioning correctly with only the LF speaker wires connected to anything. The red wire (and every other wire) was not connected on the new plug I tried to use. So, only 2 pins actually had anything connected to them.

      That's what confused me so much, why did it work once and then not again. It makes sense that I need the red wire connected, but doesn't make sense that on my first test, with the red wire disconnected, only the white and white with stripe wire connected to anything, that it worked.

      At this point I need to decide whether to cut the red wire on the factory harness and join that to the aftermarket plug, or, cut the LF and RF on the factory harness abs extend those to the DSP (leaving everything else on the factory connector intact and using that).

      I did find a 3rd option, albeit one I'm torn on whether to pursue or not. Apparently Helix make a MOST adapter (SDMI25) that takes the factory amp out entirely and provides an optical output. But, it's $600, plus having to either buy or locate a dealer with a MOST Y-cable to initially code the SDMI25 to the Volvo. $200-$300 I'd likely do it, but $600+ is a hard pill to swallow for essentially a converter.

    7. #285
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      I was not aware that Helix now makes a compatible digital adapter. This was previously reported as not economically feasible by other vendors. If you cannot extract the pin from the existing connector that has the red wire and don’t want to implement is as a multi-connector solution as I did, then an other alternative would be to simply tap into the Red wire of the existing connect with a T-Tap connector and connect the other end to your connector. This way you are still not cutting the original wiring.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    8. #286
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      T- tap connector is not a bad idea at all.

      I had contacted MoBridge a few weeks back abs they said much what you wrote, not financially worthwhile for them with the development needed. I just recently found out about the Helix and MSC confirm it will work. I've owned a Helix DSP in the past, so know they make quality products, but I'm having a hard time justifying the cost compared to simply using high level inputs with a $35 harness.

      I've found the Helix for about $450, but, that's still $450!!

    9. #287
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Hi guys. I have now got my subwoofer up and running in my 2018 XC60 based on the design by mark-sf with my own modifications to fit the newer car. I've used the same amplifier and connected via the high level outputs under the drivers seat. This turns on and off fine when the car is unlocked and locked.i had to thin the box down to fit under the cargo tray and have used the same earthquake speakers and a custom 3d printed duct. I used winisd program to check the volume and duct length and with the use of 3d printing I have derived my own custom diameter and flared ends. Mark thanks for your guidance and giving me the enthusuasm to go for it. I will do an article to compliment your design if I can find how best to get the photos online. Testing of the sub now under way, Initial thoughts are excellent bass from this unit.
      Cheers,
      Raoul.

    10. #288
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      Tall-person, great news! These type of projects always have some curves one needs to navigate. As to images, all you need is a hosting site. I recently switched to www.imgur.com as it still has a free tier. Once you upload there, it will provide a URL you can use for Insert Image in the forum's editor.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    11. #289
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      Can second imgur, I switched to that after photobucket changed.

      Another question, am I correct in that the speaker outputs on the factory amp are full range? I'm using the front 2 speakers to feed my DSP (using pin 16 got things working). However, the output is terribly weak and distorted sounding. I'm not yet sure what the issue is, so trying to narrow things down. Are the output specs (power) of the factory amp available anywhere?

      I tested using a DAP and RCA and everything works correctly, so the issue must be somewhere on that output from the factory amp / input to the DSP. Just need to determine what.

    12. #290
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      Quote Originally Posted by abcdefghii View Post
      Can second imgur, I switched to that after photobucket changed.

      Another question, am I correct in that the speaker outputs on the factory amp are full range? I'm using the front 2 speakers to feed my DSP (using pin 16 got things working). However, the output is terribly weak and distorted sounding. I'm not yet sure what the issue is, so trying to narrow things down. Are the output specs (power) of the factory amp available anywhere?

      I tested using a DAP and RCA and everything works correctly, so the issue must be somewhere on that output from the factory amp / input to the DSP. Just need to determine what.
      The fronts are full range as long as the Dolby Processing is not engaged which introduces the Center Speaker into the picture with its perspective processing.

      While answered in another forum, the cause turned out to be the input impedance of the MiniDSP is too high (68 ohms) resulting in the amp becoming unstable when not connected to speakers. While this worked for my subwoofer tap-off since I still used the stock speakers, this will not work if you are substituting other amps for the stock one. In this case, the solution is to add a 4 ohm 50W wire wound resistor across each channel’s high inputs to properly load the amp.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    13. #291
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Hey mark-sf. I've uploaded all my images to imgur now so will be doing a write up soon.
      Initial trials suggest I have a mounting vibration issue where the box sits on the metal floor so I need to fix that down securely. I'm also not convinced that the two speaker dust caps aren't touching each other. I had to make 3mm thick 3d printed gaskets to lift the speakers off the mdf slightly as when they were bolted direct to the mdf I could hear them touching. You used the speaker rings so probably had a little more clearance. Annoyingly these speakers have quite a protruding dust cone so even with 3/4 mdf between they still touch. I might make a 4mm gasket each side to give a bit more clearance.
      Here's one of my pictures showing the thinner box (5.5" total) and how I can only just squeeze these speakers in after I routed some grooves in the sides for the magnet bolt heads!

      https://imgur.com/a/nRlerEh

      Update to follow.

      Cheers,
      Raoul.
      Last edited by Tall-person; 04-18-2020 at 03:37 AM.

    14. #292
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tall-person View Post
      Hey mark-sf. I've uploaded all my images to imgur now so will be doing a write up soon.
      Initial trials suggest I have a mounting vibration issue where the box sits on the metal floor so I need to fix that down securely. I'm also not convinced that the two speaker dust caps aren't touching each other. I had to make 3mm thick 3d printed gaskets to lift the speakers off the mdf slightly as when they were bolted direct to the mdf I could hear them touching. You used the speaker rings so probably had a little more clearance. Annoyingly these speakers have quite a protruding dust cone so even with 3/4 mdf between they still touch. I might make a 4mm gasket each side to give a bit more clearance.
      Here's one of my pictures showing the thinner box (5.5" total) and how I can only just squeeze these speakers in after I routed some grooves in the sides for the magnet bolt heads!

      https://imgur.com/a/nRlerEh

      Update to follow.

      Cheers,
      Raoul.
      Raul, it looks like you made great progress! I feel your frustration as I hit some similar bumps as well. You did a great job on the vents. I dod use the stock gaskets and would go with the bigger gasket even if it meant altering the assembly where the bottom need to be routed out more. I hadn't seen the 2018 battery location before and I must say that it is unique though convenient. I'm surprised you are having a vibration issue with the cargo floor in place though I see that there may be a slope from front to back that you have that earlier models didn't. You can solve that without screws with the nylon interlocks I used on by routing out a couple of sections on your crossbar as mount points.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    15. #293
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Thanks Mark, I've sorted the problem now by raising the box off the floor slightly....the box was contacting the metal of the floor. Now written my article and will upload to a new post and credit your work.

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