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    1. #36
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      Attending GGVCOA Event This Saturday

      To any of you in the San Francisco Bay Area, I am bringing my XC60 to the GGVCOA event at Carlson Volvo in Palo Alto this Saturday morning (8/6) and you can have a look and listen. Feel free to bring a reference CD or iPod.

      Details of the event are here. You don't have to be a VCOA member though I am sure they'd like for you to join.
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    3. #37
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      I wish I could come and hear your set up and see it first hand.

    4. #38
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      Quote Originally Posted by Mephisto View Post
      I wish I could come and hear your set up and see it first hand.
      That would be quite a trip from Germany, though I understand we will get an up close look at the new S60R.
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    6. #39
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      Unfortunately I strained my back last night and am not able to attend the GGVCOA event today.
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    7. #40
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      I ordered Xc60 D3,will get on Feb. 2012. I will try to built subwoofer on your design. Thanks for your sharing.

    8. #41
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      I ordered Xc60 D3,will get on Feb. 2012. I will try to built subwoofer on your design. Thanks for your sharing.
      Your welcome. Feel free to post questions here. I am working on a long term use update and music review to give would be builders such as yourself, a sense of what music I used and what to listen for in tuning and calibration.
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    9. #42
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Your welcome. Feel free to post questions here. I am working on a long term use update and music review to give would be builders such as yourself, a sense of what music I used and what to listen for in tuning and calibration.
      1.In instruction Navone #N-902 let to connect the red wire to a source of accessory +12 V. I'm not sure where to tap. If i connect direct to bat+12v . Will Navone #N-902 draw standby current cause low battery?
      2. How do you connect clear- paired wires of #N-902 to speaker signal ?
      3. You tap speaker signals by addition socket. i think it a very good idea. And the other end run to Fosgate amp inputs, Do you use RCA Jack or direct solder?

      Thanks you.

    10. #43
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      1.In instruction Navone #N-902 let to connect the red wire to a source of accessory +12 V. I'm not sure where to tap. If i connect direct to bat+12v . Will Navone #N-902 draw standby current cause low battery?
      2. How do you connect clear- paired wires of #N-902 to speaker signal ?
      3. You tap speaker signals by addition socket. i think it a very good idea. And the other end run to Fosgate amp inputs, Do you use RCA Jack or direct solder?

      Thanks you.
      Good questions. Here's what I did.

      1. I used the 12v from the OEM power amp connection running it with the L/R speakers signal line. The wire I used because I had some was 4 conductors and a shield. One does not need a shield for speaker level signals thus I used it to carry the 12v. If I were getting the wire new I would simply get 5 or 6 conductor. I had to add the Navone post-installation since I thought I would not need it. I would not use unswitched 12v even if the current draw is low in case the Navone shorts internally.

      2. I soldered them to one of the input channel connections.

      3. With the Rockford you have a choice of using RCA or cutting them off and using direct soldered connections. I do not like RCA connectors unless required for shielded connections which this is not and you already have a molex connector to the amp. Therefore, I cut them off and used solder and shrink-wrap which also allowed me to connect the Navone switch.

      Please post your results.
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    11. #44
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Good questions. Here's what I did.

      1. I used the 12v from the OEM power amp connection running it with the L/R speakers signal line. The wire I used because I had some was 4 conductors and a shield. One does not need a shield for speaker level signals thus I used it to carry the 12v. If I were getting the wire new I would simply get 5 or 6 conductor. I had to add the Navone post-installation since I thought I would not need it. I would not use unswitched 12v even if the current draw is low in case the Navone shorts internally.

      2. I soldered them to one of the input channel connections.

      3. With the Rockford you have a choice of using RCA or cutting them off and using direct soldered connections. I do not like RCA connectors unless required for shielded connections which this is not and you already have a molex connector to the amp. Therefore, I cut them off and used solder and shrink-wrap which also allowed me to connect the Navone switch.

      Please post your results.
      Thanks you for your reply.
      I will simulate test the system in our room first. Because i will get XC60 on Feb 2012. That's the long way. But i' m very excite to make it early.
      At this moment, i get SWS-6.5, PBR300X1 (Made in Thailand, but can't get it here), N-092. And let car stereo shop to built the sub box follow your drawing with a lot of question of concept design. They not familiar the Volvo sound system. I don't have tools and skill for this. And i want it like professional sub box.
      I have some modify for sub box.
      1. I use binding post speaker terminal as the home speaker. Is it o.k.?
      2. I can't find 2" vent tube here. I use normal 2" dia. x 3" long with extend P.V.C pipe inside to meet 8". Is's it o.k.?
      Regards,

      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 11:09 AM.

    12. #45
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      Testing outside of the car is a good idea and is something that I did as it is a great way to find air leaks and undesireable resonances. You need to make sure you use a power amp that is stable into a 2 ohm load or you are able to run the Rockford amp on a car battery or high current 12v supply. As to your questions:

      1. Using this type of connector plate is fine, only you will have to change its location due to its size. I would recommend the port-side end-piece as a first choice over placing it on the same side as the vend in the sealed end due to lneeding to seal against ess air-pressure. It is very important that this type of plate be used with a gasket as the air pressure is sufficient to make any leaks audible. I would also recommend that if you choose spade lugs over plugs that you make sure to secure the cable to the frame so that there is no cable vibration indepndent from the enclosure.

      2. The vent is a bit more of an issue. First the lack of curved flanges on both ends will require you to add about .5" to the length of the tube for equivalent tuning which is an issue since you need 1 diameter or 2" of end clearance within the box. You also want to make sure there are no ridges in the pipe as displayed in the picture. Therefore, my first recommendation is to pay the international shipping to get the flanged assembly. Second would be to add a .5" thick piece of MDF around the front flange allowing you to still maintain 2" of clearance. If you size it correclty there is enough space to not have the enclosure pushed back farther due to the rear seat support.
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    13. #46
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Hi Mark, I just tested a subwoofer after long assembly.
      I'm finding way to post picture.

      [IMG][/IMG]
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-04-2012 at 12:50 AM.

    14. #47
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Finally,i find the way to post picture.
      I received the subwoofer on tuesday with 2"x3" air tube. I tested it first. And then i put small tube 8" long (Silicone sealant bottle) that fit perfect. The bass sound is deeper.
      I wonder about the length of air tube to affect the bass. And also doubt if i change to flange assembly, how much more sound quality increase?
      After some adjustment, the bass quality is very impressive.
      I add remote punch for adjust bass. Do you agree with this?
      And i want to know the cutoff frequency on Rockford Fosgate. I tested at 50Hz, the deep bass but no bass power . On 150hz more bass power but harder bass. But i like 150Hz. I can't find specification frequency respond of SWS-6.5 . The cutoff freq. depend on spec of speaker or not.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      [IMG][/IMG]
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-04-2012 at 12:49 AM.

    15. #48
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      I used the old system in picture.

      [IMG][/IMG]

    16. #49
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      [IMG][/IMG]
      Last edited by mhc2007; 09-22-2011 at 11:15 AM.

    17. #50
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      Thumbs up

      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Finally,i find the way to post picture.
      I received the subwoofer on tuesday with 2"x3" air tube. I tested it first. And then i put small tube 8" long (Silicone sealant bottle) that fit perfect. The bass sound is deeper.
      I wonder about the length of air tube to affect the bass. And also doubt if i change to flange assembly, how much more sound quality increase?
      After some adjustment, the bass quality is very impressive.
      I add remote punch for adjust bass. Do you agree with this?
      And i want to know the cutoff frequency on Rockford Fosgate. I tested at 50Hz, the deep bass but no bass power . On 150hz more bass power but harder bass. But i like 150Hz. I can't find specification frequency respond of SWS-6.5 . The cutoff freq. depend on spec of speaker or not.
      Great Job! I chose not to carpet the exterior to preserve access to the drivers since I had no experience with them. However, they do appear to be able to handle everything that I desire to throw at them without a problem. As you found out the length of the tube is critical in tuning the subwoofer. A flange on 1 end would add an effective length of about half an inch altering the resonant frequency a few hertz. What is more critical is to preserve the 1 tube diameter clearance from the rear wall to avoid constricting air flow. If you have done that then you are probably fine without it.

      Regarding the remote punch: I chose to not get one as it is designed more for subs in sealed small enclosures that need the low frequency peaking it provides to compensate for the enclosure rolloff. This is not necessary in this design and balance can be acheived quite simply with the Fosgate input level control. Since you already have it I would initally tune without it and see if you enjoy its effect after.

      Regarding the Fosgate High Frequency cut-off, as you found you do not set it as you would a typical sub as the HF cut-off is built into the design. Take a look at the computed response curve that I posted earlier in this thread and you will see yo don't need to roll-off additionally until the response is at least -18db as you do not want compound roll-offs to have an audible effect. 150 -200Hz is fine but as always do the final tuning in the car. In the next week or so I hope to post the music selections and what to listen for that I used in the final tuning.

      Once again, I am glad you were able to execute it so well. Hope the design meets your expectations once you get it installed. Don't be shy about reporting your results.
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    18. #51
      Junior Member Dom_J's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Now that we have all the pieces, its time to perform the installation. First up is the wiring of the amplifier inputs. Since the XC60 has all line-level audio in optical digital and not accessible, I had to tap off the LF and RF speaker outputs of the OEM amp under the passenger seat. Instead of splicing the wires in a vulnerable position, I decided to research whether a wiring harness was available. Off course it wasn't as the XC60 is so new. Also the new Premium amps use a 16pin connector instead of the older 14pin one so older harnesses would not work. I widened my search and found a harness for a Parrot Bluetooth system from a distributor in the UK that used the 16pin connector. It was quickly shipped and though it had far more wire and connectors than I needed I was able to create a plug-in solution by splicing only the harness wires as shown below:


      Amplifier Wiring Harness

      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Good questions. Here's what I did.

      1. I used the 12v from the OEM power amp connection running it with the L/R speakers signal line. The wire I used because I had some was 4 conductors and a shield. One does not need a shield for speaker level signals thus I used it to carry the 12v. If I were getting the wire new I would simply get 5 or 6 conductor. I had to add the Navone post-installation since I thought I would not need it. I would not use unswitched 12v even if the current draw is low in case the Navone shorts internally.

      2. I soldered them to one of the input channel connections.

      3. With the Rockford you have a choice of using RCA or cutting them off and using direct soldered connections. I do not like RCA connectors unless required for shielded connections which this is not and you already have a molex connector to the amp. Therefore, I cut them off and used solder and shrink-wrap which also allowed me to connect the Navone switch.

      Please post your results.
      I'm still so confused! haha

      - You used a new harness to solder your high-output lines to the FL FR outputs before the amp?? Then plugged it in into your harness??
      - I have a sedan, can I tap into the signal straight from the rear speakers or is this not possible due to; "all line-level audio in optical digital and not accessible," I'm trying, I really am. I'm not the greatest with wiring diagrams and when you speak, I feel like the last 6-8 years of me doing my own little audio set-ups thing is completely out the window.

      I hate new cars. What the hell was I thinking?
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    19. #52
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      Hang in there. The harness is on the outputs not the inputs. The input is optical and on a different connector. I used the fronts to tap of since the rears are used for Dolby Surround and would not have the full bass signal. Also my rears are in the doors so the amp is the easiest tap point. If your HU doesn't have the rear processing you can tap off at the rears.
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    20. #53
      Junior Member Dom_J's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Hang in there. The harness is on the outputs not the inputs. The input is optical and on a different connector. I used the fronts to tap of since the rears are used for Dolby Surround and would not have the full bass signal. Also my rears are in the doors so the amp is the easiest tap point. If your HU doesn't have the rear processing you can tap off at the rears.
      I see...

      By "rear processing," you mean the ability to tune the freq for the rear only? I do have that. That dolby surround was probably incorporated into the premium sound systems also...don't think that's an issue for me & the high performance system.
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    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dom_J View Post
      I see...

      By "rear processing," you mean the ability to tune the freq for the rear only? I do have that. That dolby surround was probably incorporated into the premium sound systems also...don't think that's an issue for me & the high performance system.
      By rear processing I meant Audessey, DTS or Dolby processing that is geared to optimizing sound/surround for particular positions. If you have the High Performance system, I do not believe you have that so you can use the rears with thee caveat that rear adjustments will also effect the sub.
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    22. #55
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      Thanks for sharing the details of the install. I'm probably going to try something like this using
      the rear shelf on my S60 for the speaker mounts.

      I had a question on the N-902 (from Novone Engineering): Does it hold power to the amp after the
      ignition is turned off but before the door is opened? My car plays the audio for some time after stopping
      the car as long as the door is not opened. Since you tapped the switched input power to the N-902 off the
      OEM amp I would think this would still work. If a switched lead from the rear of the car is used then it would
      probably shut down earlier with the ignition. Not a big deal either way, but I prefer maintaing as much of the
      OEM "look and feel" as possible.

      Thanks again.
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    23. #56
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      Quote Originally Posted by krn View Post
      Thanks for sharing the details of the install. I'm probably going to try something like this using
      the rear shelf on my S60 for the speaker mounts.

      I had a question on the N-902 (from Novone Engineering): Does it hold power to the amp after the
      ignition is turned off but before the door is opened? My car plays the audio for some time after stopping
      the car as long as the door is not opened. Since you tapped the switched input power to the N-902 off the
      OEM amp I would think this would still work. If a switched lead from the rear of the car is used then it would
      probably shut down earlier with the ignition. Not a big deal either way, but I prefer maintaing as much of the
      OEM "look and feel" as possible.

      Thanks again.
      My only choice was constant power either in the rear or at the amp. This was why I needed the signal sensing trigger as I had expected the amp power to be switched but it isn't in my model. If you have access to switched power then the box is not needed as you can supply that directly to the amp's remote trigger. Only if the trigger has access to 12v after the ignition is switched off will it allow the sub amp to remain powered.
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    24. #57
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      Thanks. Just wanted to follow-up with this. I also found all power in the trunk of
      the S60 was constant 12V (could not find a convenient switched source).

      However, it turns out I'm not going to need it. I purchased the same
      Rockford Fosgate amplifier and mine is automatically switching on using the
      high level inputs (no power to the switching input and the blue LED is switching
      on and off with the audo signal). The box the amplifier came in has a manufactured
      date stamped on it of 2011-08-08. I tested it with the front and rear speaker
      inputs and both worked. It might be worth noting I have the base audio
      system (I believe that is called the "High Performance" system).

      Another tip for anyone tackling similar projects is the installation manuals
      for Volvo accessories cover a lot of interior removal and replacement steps.
      Things like removing seats, trim, running wires through the firewall, dash
      and center console removal, etc. Handy for a DIY or good to pass onto a pro
      installer if you go that route. Example is the front camera manual that
      covers running wires through the firewall (page 89, you will need to put
      the car on ramps) and dash trim removal to run the wires:

      http://accessories.volvocars.com/Acc...2114-1/NOTHING

      Find all of them starting at: http://accessories.volvocars.com/Acc...s.mvc/en-GB/UK
      2011 S60 T6, Flamenco Red / Biege, Polestar Tune; 1998 V70 T5.
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    25. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by krn View Post
      Thanks. Just wanted to follow-up with this. I also found all power in the trunk of
      the S60 was constant 12V (could not find a convenient switched source).

      However, it turns out I'm not going to need it. I purchased the same
      Rockford Fosgate amplifier and mine is automatically switching on using the
      high level inputs (no power to the switching input and the blue LED is switching
      on and off with the audo signal). The box the amplifier came in has a manufactured
      date stamped on it of 2011-08-08. I tested it with the front and rear speaker
      inputs and both worked. It might be worth noting I have the base audio
      system (I believe that is called the "High Performance" system).
      It most likely worked for you as the High Performance system uses a different amp which most likely output the DC offset necessary for the Rockford to turn on.

      Another tip for anyone tackling similar projects is the installation manuals
      for Volvo accessories cover a lot of interior removal and replacement steps.
      Things like removing seats, trim, running wires through the firewall, dash
      and center console removal, etc. Handy for a DIY or good to pass onto a pro
      installer if you go that route. Example is the front camera manual that
      covers running wires through the firewall (page 89, you will need to put
      the car on ramps) and dash trim removal to run the wires:

      http://accessories.volvocars.com/Acc...2114-1/NOTHING

      Find all of them starting at: http://accessories.volvocars.com/Acc...s.mvc/en-GB/UK
      Yes, this is a great tip and I have used these links prior to getting VIDA.
      Happy listening!
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    26. #59
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Hi Mark-sf,
      I have received my XC60 2012 till 25 Jan. She's very good driving car. Today, i just tried to fix the low end subwoofer project that i made it for long long time. One thing surprising me, it has a small piece of electronic device in the middle of space for subwoofer, that doesn't has in your picture. I thing it should be antenna for keyless PCC. I will remove back for 6". Do you have this component?

      [IMG][/IMG]
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    27. #60
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      It's monuted by doubleside tape. No lock nut.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      And i would like to ask you some question?
      [IMG][/IMG]

      In above picture,the width of small compartment less than 11" of subwoofer width. I saw your first post picture. Do you cut all of lower part out?. And how do you cut it by?
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 11:12 AM.
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    28. #61
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      I do not have PCC and obviously did not have this component either. This may be the tramission antenna as I thought the reception antennae were mounted to the car perimeters. Congratulations on your new addition!
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    29. #62
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      It's monuted by doubleside tape. No lock nut.


      And i would like to ask you some question?


      In above picture,the width of small compartment less than 11" of subwoofer width. I saw your first post picture. Do you cut all of lower part out?. And how do you cut it by?
      If you look closely at the finished picture, you will note that I preserved the lower cross piece of the insert (in your picture) to retain structural integrity such as it is. I positioned my cardboard template so that the upper edge (in your picture) would preserve most of the wall of the tire well portion. This meant that I had to leave only about 3/4" of the lower cross piece. I will upload a picture tonight of the cut-out insert to better illustrate.

      As to the tool, I initially tried a high speed rotary cutting tool but found it difficult to maintain a straight edge given the angles I was working with. I did the cutting with a heavy duty sharp razer knife always working from the high side of the insert. The following were my instructions from the thread:

      The last problem was the molded insert. One can of course simply discard it but I liked its utility and how if cut precisely it would finish off the installation. I tried several techniques but the best one was to first on the topside precisely position that cardboard template used for the bottom. This should give you about 3/4" of the rear cross piece that you can keep for structural stability. Take 2" masking or painters tape and run it across the front and rear edges sticking it to the insert not the cardboard. Then do the same for the sides but have it wrap around to extend a few inches on the underside. Now drill a 1/4" holes, at each corner. You will note that the spare tire edge will be cut across the downslope. Now turn the insert over and continue the side lines with the tape till you reach the holes on each side. At this point you can cut the insert with a heavy duty razor blade knife. I found the tall blade helps keep the line straight even though you are cutting freehand. You can clean up the edges or adjust the size with coarse sandpaper.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    30. #63
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      Here is a picture of the cut-out in the insert.



      Note the height of the cut in the front center where there is a curved rise for the spare. Hope this helps you. Look forward to seeing pictures and a report on your audio evaluation when completed.
      Last edited by mark-sf; 02-13-2020 at 11:51 PM.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    31. #64
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Here is a picture of the cut-out in the insert.



      Note the height of the cut in the front center where there is a curved rise for the spare. Hope this helps you. Look forward to seeing pictures and a report on your audio evaluation when completed.

      Thank you for your kind. It's very helpful picture, help me more clear.

      I will send the advancement.
      XC90 T8 2017 AWD Momentum

      XC60 D3 FWD 2012.2/Terra Bronze Metallic/Soft Beige/Espresso Leather/High Performance Multimedia/ Rear Camera/ BLIS/ ABL/ACC/Driver Alert/Lane Depart
      +DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End by Mark-sf

    32. #65
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      I have received my XC60 2012 till 25 Jan. She's very good driving car. Today, i just tried to fix the low end subwoofer project that i made it for long long time. One thing surprising me, it has a small piece of electronic device in the middle of space for subwoofer, that doesn't has in your picture. I thing it should be antenna for keyless PCC. I will remove back for 6". Do you have this component?

      [IMG][/IMG]
      Hi Mark-sf,
      One question just come in my head. Do you think the subwoofer will effect with PCC antenna? I 'm planning to take antenna back as short as possible for back signal strength .
      If it has, the clearance should be safe?
      Am i too panic?

      Thank you again.
      XC90 T8 2017 AWD Momentum

      XC60 D3 FWD 2012.2/Terra Bronze Metallic/Soft Beige/Espresso Leather/High Performance Multimedia/ Rear Camera/ BLIS/ ABL/ACC/Driver Alert/Lane Depart
      +DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End by Mark-sf

    33. #66
      Member krn's Avatar
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      I think you can safely move that antenna. I would not cut the wires (to shorten or lengthen it) -- just
      pull it up and move it if it is in the way. On the sedan it is attached to the bottom of the rear deck. I moved mine
      (in my sedan) a few inches to the side and rotated it 90 degrees and it still works fine (the sedan uses a snap-in
      holder for the antenna and that was rattling so I moved it and remounted it using cable ties to stop the rattle).

      There are 4 other antennas in the car -- this one is just for the rear hatch. (If you follow the
      cable you will eventually find a module where the 5 antennas all plug in.)
      2011 S60 T6, Flamenco Red / Biege, Polestar Tune; 1998 V70 T5.
      Previous (sold): 95 855 GLT; 98 S70 T5M; 2000 S40; 2006 XC90 Ocean Race

    34. #67
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      One question just come in my head. Do you think the subwoofer will effect with PCC antenna? I 'm planning to take antenna back as short as possible for back signal strength .
      If it has, the clearance should be safe?
      Am i too panic?

      Thank you again.
      As the sub enclosure is wood and the subwoofers are not grounded to the chassis, I would not expect to see any range reduction. Remember, the design needs to account for to you have cargo in the back as well. Also the OEM sub would be covering that antenna as well. You could test the range having someone trip the alarm with the fob a known distance away and see if there is a significant impact.
      Last edited by mark-sf; 02-21-2012 at 08:03 PM.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    35. #68
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Thank you krn and mark-sf for your suggestion. Today i got free time to remove antenna back from subwoofer space.

      [IMG][/IMG]
      XC90 T8 2017 AWD Momentum

      XC60 D3 FWD 2012.2/Terra Bronze Metallic/Soft Beige/Espresso Leather/High Performance Multimedia/ Rear Camera/ BLIS/ ABL/ACC/Driver Alert/Lane Depart
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    36. #69
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Thumbs up

      Hi Mark-sf, this is the progress for fixing subwoofer case. It's very hard for me to find the way to do. I wrote your procedure so many time (with my weak English ) to understand it. After i understood, i can say that you are so smart. I accepted all way you think.

      Picture 1
      [IMG][/IMG]

      Picture 2


      Picture 3


      It's neat. I will post the next progress.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 11:00 AM.
      XC90 T8 2017 AWD Momentum

      XC60 D3 FWD 2012.2/Terra Bronze Metallic/Soft Beige/Espresso Leather/High Performance Multimedia/ Rear Camera/ BLIS/ ABL/ACC/Driver Alert/Lane Depart
      +DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End by Mark-sf

    37. #70
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Now, i 'm thinking about the way for improve mounting subwoofer bracket. I love your idea to use interlock nylon strip. Tomorrow i will go to Home pro Shop to find some part to adapt.
      XC90 T8 2017 AWD Momentum

      XC60 D3 FWD 2012.2/Terra Bronze Metallic/Soft Beige/Espresso Leather/High Performance Multimedia/ Rear Camera/ BLIS/ ABL/ACC/Driver Alert/Lane Depart
      +DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End by Mark-sf

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