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    1. #71
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf, this is the progress for fixing subwoofer case. It's very hard for me to find the way to do. I wrote your procedure so many time (with my weak English ) to understand it. After i understood, i can say that you are so smart. I accepted all way you think.

      Picture 1
      [IMG][/IMG]

      Picture 2
      ฝากรูป
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      Picture 3

      ฝากรูป
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      It's neat. I will post the next progress.
      Great Job! Please let me know specifically the instructions that were not clear I can update my earlier posts to fix this.
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    3. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Now, i 'm thinking about the way for improve mounting subwoofer bracket. I love your idea to use interlock nylon strip. Tomorrow i will go to Home pro Shop to find some part to adapt.
      I can say that after 8 months the mount is as secure as ever and is easy to redo if necessary. The key is the sub brackets to the rear seat legs which secure it both veritcally as well as horizontally. Therefore there is little stress on the front brackets.
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    4. #73
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      Everytime I see this thread I have to read. I still love driving my V70 from time to time becasue of the factory sub option!

      Mark, you are going to have to just start making the boxes and selling them... I want a sub but know I will not have the time to do this myself. Also, so far, with any of the shops I have talked with I have not gotten enough of a warm/fuzzy response that would make me willing to let anyone touch my car. Thanks for keeping this thread alive.
      2011 XC60 T-6 AWD R-Design + Polestar, Passion Red (climate, navigation, and technology packages). Added: Custom Subwoofer, Trailer Hitch, Vision X LED light bar and fogs, and Laser Interceptor V. 8 (Quad).

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    6. #74
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      To any of you in the San Francisco Bay Area, I am bringing my XC60 to the GGVCOA event at Carlson Volvo in Palo Alto this Saturday morning (8/6) and you can have a look and listen. Feel free to bring a reference CD or iPod.

      Details of the event are here. You don't have to be a VCOA member though I am sure they'd like for you to join.
      I live in the Bay Area... San Jose. It would be great to see your XC60 sub modification sometime. It looks a bit daunting to do, but you are quite clear. I may consider doing it sometime.
      2012 XC60 T6 AWD Platinum with Polestar Performance Upgrade, Climate and BLIS. Front, side, and rear trim added... awesome!

    7. #75
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      Quote Originally Posted by twbannon View Post
      Everytime I see this thread I have to read. I still love driving my V70 from time to time becasue of the factory sub option!

      Mark, you are going to have to just start making the boxes and selling them... I want a sub but know I will not have the time to do this myself. Also, so far, with any of the shops I have talked with I have not gotten enough of a warm/fuzzy response that would make me willing to let anyone touch my car. Thanks for keeping this thread alive.
      Thanks for the kind words. If I had the luxury to be retired with a better shop, I would have considered building some kits as you are not the first to ask. Though it was fun to do it once. I totally understand about your concern regarding shops. The ones I have seen largely have there own "tried and true" designs which is understandable given the time it takes to properly engineer a truly custom one. And after all we are not driving vehicles that are out there in any level of quantity to generate the demand to have that investment pay off. I still only see an average 1 or 2 XC60s a week during the ~20 hrs I am on the road in the SF Bay Area.
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    8. #76
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      Quote Originally Posted by XC60drv View Post
      I live in the Bay Area... San Jose. It would be great to see your XC60 sub modification sometime. It looks a bit daunting to do, but you are quite clear. I may consider doing it sometime.
      Drop me a PM as I work on the Peninsula. I would mind experiencing a little Polestar tune as well.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    9. #77
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I can say that after 8 months the mount is as secure as ever and is easy to redo if necessary. The key is the sub brackets to the rear seat legs which secure it both veritcally as well as horizontally. Therefore there is little stress on the front brackets.
      Hi mark-sf, Finally i can't find any solution to improve mounting bracket base on D.I.Y. concept.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      I didn't drill a hole on rear bracket. I used the o.e.m. hole.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      In this picture, i 'm not yet to fix screw to subwoofer box.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 11:08 AM.
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    10. #78
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi mark-sf, Finally i can't find any solution to improve mounting bracket base on D.I.Y. concept.

      [IMG]ฝากรูป
      Thanks: ฝากรูป, บอลวันนี้[/IMG]

      I didn't drill a hole on rear bracket. I used the o.e.m. hole.

      [IMG]ฝากรูป
      Thanks: ฝากรูป, บอลวันนี้[/IMG]

      In this picture, i 'm not yet to fix screw to subwoofer box.
      Looks like you are making fine progress. A couple of comments if I may...

      I alos used the existing hole to secure the left side front bracket; however I had to drill one for the right side front bracket. I can't tell from your picture whether you have also installed the right one. If not, I recommend that you do so as it provides positional stability.

      As to the rear brackets, I selected ones that were able to be secured with screws higher up on the sides as the type of wood used for the enclosure does not have great edge strength. I can't know the thickness of your carpet covering but I would be concerned that the screws holes will be too close to the bottom to provide adequate long-term attachement.

      Remember, the XC60 has a rather firm suspension and even though there is a cargo floor platform above, the subwoofer will be subjected to quite a bit of vibration and jolts. It does have a lot of mass which you don't want moving.

      I look forward to your report on its sound.
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    11. #79
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Looks like you are making fine progress. A couple of comments if I may...

      I alos used the existing hole to secure the left side front bracket; however I had to drill one for the right side front bracket. I can't tell from your picture whether you have also installed the right one. If not, I recommend that you do so as it provides positional stability.

      As to the rear brackets, I selected ones that were able to be secured with screws higher up on the sides as the type of wood used for the enclosure does not have great edge strength. I can't know the thickness of your carpet covering but I would be concerned that the screws holes will be too close to the bottom to provide adequate long-term attachement.

      Remember, the XC60 has a rather firm suspension and even though there is a cargo floor platform above, the subwoofer will be subjected to quite a bit of vibration and jolts. It does have a lot of mass which you don't want moving.

      I look forward to your report on its sound.
      Thank you again for your comment. I forgot to concern at the height rear bracket. I point to add mounting area for more mounting strength only. I agree with your comment. I will change taller bracket.

      The other pictures. I forgot to post.


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    12. #80
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      HI Mark-sf, Today is a long day. I just finished installation the low-end sub system.

      I decided to solder on main power wire. Because it's easy way and secure in my opinion. And hard to find wire tap connector here.
      [IMG][/IMG]
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    13. #81
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      I changed the rear bracket as your comment.

      [IMG][/IMG]
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 10:52 AM.
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    14. #82
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      Now i came to step IV Tuning.
      I tried rough adjustment by set 3 left band EQ. to flat. and other for half /3.4 , Sub LP cutoff: 150 Hz.
      I found that the overall sound volume decrease, i increased the volume. The bass sound was more deep and powerful. I played some Thai song that i familiar, i got the deeper note bass and accurate. I think it full fill the sound system. But i feel the sound was not complete yet. The some low frequency came from the door speakers (may be were designed for full range). I will fine adjustment tomorrow.
      So i 'm doing homework for part IV. After i read this part, you use ref. CD. for adjustment and set [60EQ -8, 200EQ+2,Sub Gain :1, Sub LP Cutoff:150Hz]
      Any adjustment?
      Thank you.
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    15. #83
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Now i came to step IV Tuning.
      I tried rough adjustment by set 3 left band EQ. to flat. and other for half /3.4 , Sub LP cutoff: 150 Hz.
      I found that the overall sound volume decrease, i increased the volume. The bass sound was more deep and powerful. I played some Thai song that i familiar, i got the deeper note bass and accurate. I think it full fill the sound system. But i feel the sound was not complete yet. The some low frequency came from the door speakers (may be were designed for full range). I will fine adjustment tomorrow.
      So i 'm doing homework for part IV. After i read this part, you use ref. CD. for adjustment and set [60EQ -8, 200EQ+2,Sub Gain :1, Sub LP Cutoff:150Hz]
      Any adjustment?
      Thank you.
      I'm glad to see that you are up and running! Looks great! Regarding the EQ, from reading my notes you find that the 60Hz EQ and Bass Tone controls adjust the identical frequency range. To remove the low bass from the doors, I have set the 60Hz EQ to -10 (all the way down) and the Bass to -6 as a starting point. Then bring up or down the Fosgate level to where you feel the bass is balanced. You should then no longer feel vibrations from the doors on low bass. Finally you can fine tune the Bass Control as a Loudness Control based upon your current listening volume and taste. If you want a bit more mid-bass level (120-200Hz) you can try bringing the 120EQ up a bit from flat.

      Once the low end is taken care of you may find there is too much emphasis in the upper mids. You can tame that by cutting 1KEQ or 3KEQ or both a few DB.

      Because, the vehicle volume is so much smaller than listening rooms, the low end is reproduced by changing air pressure as in headphones versus wave propagation. Therefore, its quality is going to be different and less integrated that in a large listening room. What I try to shoot for (after the newness wears off) is not being aware of the bass until its there and then having it cut off as quickly as in the recording. The following are some of the selections I use for bass tuning as I am very familiar with them.

      Robert Shaw: Atlanta Symphony Orchestra: Stravinsky Firebird
      Peter Gabriel: The Rhythm Of The Heat
      Atrium Musicae De Madrid: Tarentelas I ŕ VI
      Pu**ycat Dolls: Buttons, Don't Cha
      Fusión Andina: Pukara (Inka Gold)
      Katie Melua Crawling Up a Hill
      Louis Lane: Atlanta Symphony Orchestra: Copland: Fanfare For The Common Man
      Clannad: I Will Find You (Last of the Mohicans)
      Klaus Badelt: Barbossa Is Hungry (Pirates of the Caribbean)
      Fredrick Fennell: Cleveland Symphonic Winds: Holst: Suite 1 In E Flat - 3. March
      Shakira: Hips Don't Lie, Rules, Animal City
      Secret Garden: The Rap
      Pink Floyd: Time
      Hans Zimmer: Wheel of Fortune (Pirates of the Caribbean - Dead Man's Chest)
      Bassnectar: Bass Head (Timestretch)
      Jon Iverson: Metalanguage, The Culm Dialect, Gambuh Ikat (Alternesia)

      Hope this helps you!
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    16. #84
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Hi Mark-sf,
      Thank you again for your guide tuning. My best adjustment now as follow the picture and Bass control to +2/ Treble to 0.



      First i adjusted 60HzEQ to -10. I feel that the gap between bass freq. and mid. freq. not match. As you said, I set EQ 1kHz to -10 because it's more mid range.
      I tested with many song that i can find. One song, Roughest place by Stevie Ray Vaughan is very impressive song. This song let me easy to set. The overall sound is more better than no sub bass. The bass more deeper. I love it very much.
      But at this moment, i feel to have more bass for some pop song but i can't get. I plug remote EQ that i ordered. I feel that nothing change. May be i missed some thing.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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    17. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      Thank you again for your guide tuning. My best adjustment now as follow the picture and Bass control to +2/ Treble to 0.

      [IMG]ฝากรูป
      Thanks: ฝากรูป, บอลวันนี้[/IMG]

      First i adjusted 60HzEQ to -10. I feel that the gap between bass freq. and mid. freq. not match. As you said, I set EQ 1kHz to -10 because it's more mid range.
      I tested with many song that i can find. One song, Roughest place by Stevie Ray Vaughan is very impressive song. This song let me easy to set. The overall sound is more better than no sub bass. The bass more deeper. I love it very much.
      But at this moment, i feel to have more bass for some pop song but i can't get. I plug remote EQ that i ordered. I feel that nothing change. May be i missed some thing.
      Glad to hear you are enjoying the sub-bass. I am surprised by your settings especially the 1KEQ setting to -10. From my measurements, these EQ controls do not behave as a conventional equalizer. They appear to be a 5 band tone control. Setting the 1K to -10 really kills the midrange making female vocals sound very recessed. Obviously tastes vary but I would try the following:

      1. If you are using Dolby Surround, I would move the 1K back to -2.
      2. Then cut back on the center speaker volume with the soundstage set to Front until balanced.

      You may find that this produces a better vocal balance across a range of music genres and recordings. I have found that the center speaker can be too prominent and regularly run it at -4.

      Also the fact that you are running the Bass control at +2 indicates to me that you may not have the Fosgate Amo gain control high enough. I would try setting the Bass back to -6 and increasing the Amp gain (not the Boost) until the bass is balanced. At +2 there is entirely too much bass in the doors. The fact that you are not hearing much difference with the remote EQ can be due to too much bass in the doors and not enough gain on the Fosgate. This type of setup can be tricky because when you change the 60EQ or the Bass in the HU you not only change the bass in the doors but change the bass level going to the Fosgate. I find it useful to compare the sound with the Fosgate off and then on. This ensures that the doors are properly being rolled off.
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    18. #86
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Glad to hear you are enjoying the sub-bass. I am surprised by your settings especially the 1KEQ setting to -10. From my measurements, these EQ controls do not behave as a conventional equalizer. They appear to be a 5 band tone control. Setting the 1K to -10 really kills the midrange making female vocals sound very recessed. Obviously tastes vary but I would try the following:

      1. If you are using Dolby Surround, I would move the 1K back to -2.
      2. Then cut back on the center speaker volume with the soundstage set to Front until balanced.

      You may find that this produces a better vocal balance across a range of music genres and recordings. I have found that the center speaker can be too prominent and regularly run it at -4.

      Also the fact that you are running the Bass control at +2 indicates to me that you may not have the Fosgate Amo gain control high enough. I would try setting the Bass back to -6 and increasing the Amp gain (not the Boost) until the bass is balanced. At +2 there is entirely too much bass in the doors. The fact that you are not hearing much difference with the remote EQ can be due to too much bass in the doors and not enough gain on the Fosgate. This type of setup can be tricky because when you change the 60EQ or the Bass in the HU you not only change the bass in the doors but change the bass level going to the Fosgate. I find it useful to compare the sound with the Fosgate off and then on. This ensures that the doors are properly being rolled off.
      Hi Mark-sf,
      After you are talking about Dolby Surround, i got the point. It's possible that the Volvo sound system package is different.
      My standard sound system is 4x40W High Performance Audio System Multimedia with 1disc CD/DVD player & 7" color LCD display, Auxiliary & USB/ipod ports, 8 speaker. I don't have center speaker and Dolby Surround.
      So the setting can be different.
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    19. #87
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      After you are talking about Dolby Surround, i got the point. It's possible that the Volvo sound system package is different.
      My standard sound system is 4x40W High Performance Audio System Multimedia with 1disc CD/DVD player & 7" color LCD display, Auxiliary & USB/ipod ports, 8 speaker. I don't have center speaker and Dolby Surround.
      So the setting can be different.
      Good point . Absolutely the settings will be different. Since you only have 40W for the doors I still would follow my bass instructions to increase the Fosgate gain to get more bass as it is even more important to remove bass from the doors.
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    20. #88
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      Glad to hear you are enjoying the sub-bass. I am surprised by your settings especially the 1KEQ setting to -10. From my measurements, these EQ controls do not behave as a conventional equalizer. They appear to be a 5 band tone control. Setting the 1K to -10 really kills the midrange making female vocals sound very recessed. Obviously tastes vary but I would try the following:

      1. If you are using Dolby Surround, I would move the 1K back to -2.
      2. Then cut back on the center speaker volume with the soundstage set to Front until balanced.

      You may find that this produces a better vocal balance across a range of music genres and recordings. I have found that the center speaker can be too prominent and regularly run it at -4.

      Also the fact that you are running the Bass control at +2 indicates to me that you may not have the Fosgate Amo gain control high enough. I would try setting the Bass back to -6 and increasing the Amp gain (not the Boost) until the bass is balanced. At +2 there is entirely too much bass in the doors. The fact that you are not hearing much difference with the remote EQ can be due to too much bass in the doors and not enough gain on the Fosgate. This type of setup can be tricky because when you change the 60EQ or the Bass in the HU you not only change the bass in the doors but change the bass level going to the Fosgate. I find it useful to compare the sound with the Fosgate off and then on. This ensures that the doors are properly being rolled off.
      Hi Mark-sf,
      I confuse with two adjust volumes( Gain/HL Adjust). I don't understand the function of them.
      I will tune step by step as follow :-
      1. Set 60Hz EQ to -10, 200Hz to +2, 1KHz/3Khz/12KHz to 0
      2. Bass Control to -6, Treble to o, Fader to 0
      3. Set High/Low Level to High
      4. Set Gain Volume to 1, don't plug EQ Remote.
      5. Increasing HL Adjust volume until the bass balance.
      6. Never increase 60Hz EQ. Using the Bass control or EQ Remote Punch as a loudness.
      7. If i increase 60HzEQ., it will increase bass in the doors and the sub woofer. So don't adjust it. Is it correct?
      8. If i increase Bass control, it will increase bass in the doors and the sub woofer. Don't adjust if you have EQ Remote.
      9. If i increase EQ Remote Punch, it will increase bass on the sub woofer only.
      Please advice me.
      Thank you.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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    21. #89
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      I confuse with two adjust volumes( Gain/HL Adjust). I don't understand the function of them.
      I will tune step by step as follow :-
      1. Set 60Hz EQ to -10, 200Hz to +2, 1KHz/3Khz/12KHz to 0
      2. Bass Control to -6, Treble to o, Fader to 0
      3. Set High/Low Level to High
      4. Set Gain Volume to 1, don't plug EQ Remote.
      5. Increasing HL Adjust volume until the bass balance.
      6. Never increase 60Hz EQ. Using the Bass control or EQ Remote Punch as a loudness.
      7. If i increase 60HzEQ., it will increase bass in the doors and the sub woofer. So don't adjust it. Is it correct?
      8. If i increase Bass control, it will increase bass in the doors and the sub woofer. Don't adjust if you have EQ Remote.
      9. If i increase EQ Remote Punch, it will increase bass on the sub woofer only.
      Please advice me.
      Thank you.

      [IMG]ฝากรูป
      Thanks: ฝากรูป, บอลวันนี้[/IMG]
      I now see your problems.
      1. The HL control is only used to set the power amp remote power threshold. It does nothing for bass or gain level. Do not use it at all since the Volvo amps don't support that method of remote power.
      2. The Gain control is the one you must use to set bass level balance and I would expect it to be set greater than 2 in your case.

      The rest of your comments are correct.
      The Remote EQ Control will increase the low end in a similar way that the Bass Control would however it is will not increase the bass in the doors and only boosts the bass under 100Hz. Since you have it I would use it to make song-by-song adjustments instead of the Bass Control. The reason you didn't hear its effect was that the Fosgate's Gain was too low relative to your doors' bass drivers.
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    22. #90
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I now see your problems.
      1. The HL control is only used to set the power amp remote power threshold. It does nothing for bass or gain level. Do not use it at all since the Volvo amps don't support that method of remote power.
      2. The Gain control is the one you must use to set bass level balance and I would expect it to be set greater than 2 in your case.

      The rest of your comments are correct.
      The Remote EQ Control will increase the low end in a similar way that the Bass Control would however it is will not increase the bass in the doors and only boosts the bass under 100Hz. Since you have it I would use it to make song-by-song adjustments instead of the Bass Control. The reason you didn't hear its effect was that the Fosgate's Gain was too low relative to your doors' bass drivers.

      Hi Mark-sf,
      I tried to set as your comment. But the sound seem not good. I think the factor which affect the setting is the speaker and the power of amp. I will post the report later.
      I have the question to ask you :
      1. I found in some post that High performance system use normal 10w 6.5" woofer speaker and 10w tweeter with condenser. I think that if i upgrade the speakers to 3 ways the sound system will more improve. I try to follow the Premier Performance System. Do you know the detail of speaker in Premium? ( brand, size,impedance,watts) I found the detail is Dyna Audio 6.5" speaker. Do you think it's good to upgrade?
      2. I don't recognize with Dyna Audio brand. And i think the Dyna Audio series are too good and too expensive for my system. My recognize is Hertz brand. The idea speaker for upgrade is Hi-Energy Hertz HSK 130 (3ways system, 6 1/2' Woofer, 3" Mid-range, 1" Tweeter, 4ohms, freq. range 40+22kHz, Sensitivity92db/SPL)
      or Hertz Energy Serie ESK 163L (3ways, 6 1/2" Woofer, 4" Mid-range, 3/4" Tweeter, 4ohms, freq. range 50 - 23Khz, Sensitivity 92 db/SPL. )
      Do you think those can fix with no cutting hole ? I also worry my amp. power that has enough power to drive the speaker or not.
      Please comment those speakers, give me some your idea speaker.
      3. Do Premier Multimedia system use cross-over network? If they use where to fix the cross-over network?
      4. The other difference factor is amp. I have a dream to change the High Performance amp. to Premium Performance Amp.. I will use just only 4 channelx130w.,no Dolby system, no center speaker. Just only need more power. Do you think it possible to plug and play with no software update?
      I think the wiring will go on the same direction.

      Thank you.
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    23. #91
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      mch I would look at installing a 6dB highpass filter for your front door speakers and possibly your rear door speakers. I'm soorry I don't know the impedence of your front speakers so you will have to do the calculation yourself, the12V.com is very helpful- www.the12volt.com

      The calculator can be found here- Calculator

      All you have to do is enter the speaker impedance and desired cutoff frequency in(I'd go for 100-120Hz) then solder the capacitor in to the speaker wire as per the diagram. Don't worry about the coil spec, you don't need to add one of them.

      Adding the highpass filter will allow you to set the headunit back to or very close to flat for the EQ and your sub gain will be set at the amp.

      As to going for after market three way speakers it can be a lot of work, you may have trouble fitting a large crossover in the door and if you mount it under the dash you have to run multiple speaker wires to the door. I have a three way active system in my S60 and I am still unhappy with it, at first I thought the poor end result was my fault but finding a good review for my speakers proved near impossible. Also if you do buy three way speakers they will have to be very efficient as you do not have a lot of power to play with.

    24. #92
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Volvofool View Post
      mch I would look at installing a 6dB highpass filter for your front door speakers and possibly your rear door speakers. I'm soorry I don't know the impedence of your front speakers so you will have to do the calculation yourself, the12V.com is very helpful- www.the12volt.com

      The calculator can be found here- Calculator

      All you have to do is enter the speaker impedance and desired cutoff frequency in(I'd go for 100-120Hz) then solder the capacitor in to the speaker wire as per the diagram. Don't worry about the coil spec, you don't need to add one of them.

      Adding the highpass filter will allow you to set the headunit back to or very close to flat for the EQ and your sub gain will be set at the amp.

      As to going for after market three way speakers it can be a lot of work, you may have trouble fitting a large crossover in the door and if you mount it under the dash you have to run multiple speaker wires to the door. I have a three way active system in my S60 and I am still unhappy with it, at first I thought the poor end result was my fault but finding a good review for my speakers proved near impossible. Also if you do buy three way speakers they will have to be very efficient as you do not have a lot of power to play with.
      Hi Volvofool, Thank you for your information. I will consider the size of crossover and the speaker for fit in the doors.
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      I tried to set as your comment. But the sound seem not good. I think the factor which affect the setting is the speaker and the power of amp. I will post the report later.
      I have the question to ask you :
      1. I found in some post that High performance system use normal 10w 6.5" woofer speaker and 10w tweeter with condenser. I think that if i upgrade the speakers to 3 ways the sound system will more improve. I try to follow the Premier Performance System. Do you know the detail of speaker in Premium? ( brand, size,impedance,watts) I found the detail is Dyna Audio 6.5" speaker. Do you think it's good to upgrade?
      2. I don't recognize with Dyna Audio brand. And i think the Dyna Audio series are too good and too expensive for my system. My recognize is Hertz brand. The idea speaker for upgrade is Hi-Energy Hertz HSK 130 (3ways system, 6 1/2' Woofer, 3" Mid-range, 1" Tweeter, 4ohms, freq. range 40+22kHz, Sensitivity92db/SPL)
      or Hertz Energy Serie ESK 163L (3ways, 6 1/2" Woofer, 4" Mid-range, 3/4" Tweeter, 4ohms, freq. range 50 - 23Khz, Sensitivity 92 db/SPL. )
      Do you think those can fix with no cutting hole ? I also worry my amp. power that has enough power to drive the speaker or not.
      Please comment those speakers, give me some your idea speaker.
      3. Do Premier Multimedia system use cross-over network? If they use where to fix the cross-over network?
      4. The other difference factor is amp. I have a dream to change the High Performance amp. to Premium Performance Amp.. I will use just only 4 channelx130w.,no Dolby system, no center speaker. Just only need more power. Do you think it possible to plug and play with no software update?
      I think the wiring will go on the same direction.

      Thank you.
      I am sorry you are having so much difficulty getting a satisfatory balance. I would need more details as to what specifically was "not good" and await your report. As to your questions:

      RE: 1. I do not have specifics on the driver differences between the different option levels. I do know that since the Sensus introduction the drivers have changed from being DynAudio ones to reportedly Harmon Kardon ones. I do not believe you should upgrade the drivers to the current Premium ones without and amplifier upgrade. Further upgrade discussions really depend on the specifics of your sound issues.

      RE: 2. DynAudio is a very fine Danish speaker brand and actually I was sad to see their drivers were no longer being used. They used to provide drivers to the DIY market as well as OEMs but has since stopped which may have been a factor. Again I would not even consider upgarding to third party drivers without a clear understanding of your current limitations. If you went this way I would initially look at a processor (ex: Alpine Imprint) plus amp before changing speakers.

      RE: 3. All of the systems include a passive crossover within the doors. If I was not able to properly bring back the sub level using the routine I specified, my next approach would have been to experiment with adding a high-pass network to the door speakers but located at the amplifier output. I have not meassured the acutal impedance of the woofers, but from the coil resistence they appear to be in the 4 ohm region. I was planning on experimenting with a series non-polarized, bypassed capacitor network in the 330-400uF range which should provide a 6db/octave roll-off with -3db point between 100-120Hz. I do have the test equipment to measure this, so I would not have been flying blind. Having said that, I am not a fan of series capacitance in the woofer path but parallel inductors would be very large and expensive. Even so, a processor/amp combo would perform siginificantly better though be more expensive, remembering that going in I had enough power.

      RE: 4. Upgrading the power amp to the Premium version would be a drop-in according to the electrical diagram. HOWEVER, it would require a software upgrade as it is on the communication bus (In/Out Optical Connector) and very likely would require the driver upgrade in the doors due to power handling. It is also not clear that there is a software update that would accept the amp without the other Premium bits. I would never go this route and simply use the aftermarket proc/amp combo as it would be more flexible and I would bet not any more expensive even if there was an available software update.

      Again, I would not give up on your current configuration just yet. If there are any music tracks in that list that I gave you which you can describe specifically what about the sound is a problem I can try to assist you further.
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    26. #94
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      Some info on speaker impedance at the end of this thread:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...eally-that-bad

      Note they are different for the Premium vs. High Performance system. That might also impact the
      ability to upgrade to the bigger amp if it is not designed for a 2 ohm load.
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    27. #95
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by krn View Post
      Some info on speaker impedance at the end of this thread:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...eally-that-bad

      Note they are different for the Premium vs. High Performance system. That might also impact the
      ability to upgrade to the bigger amp if it is not designed for a 2 ohm load.
      Hi krn,Thank you for your link.
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    28. #96
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I am sorry you are having so much difficulty getting a satisfatory balance. I would need more details as to what specifically was "not good" and await your report. As to your questions:

      RE: 1. I do not have specifics on the driver differences between the different option levels. I do know that since the Sensus introduction the drivers have changed from being DynAudio ones to reportedly Harmon Kardon ones. I do not believe you should upgrade the drivers to the current Premium ones without and amplifier upgrade. Further upgrade discussions really depend on the specifics of your sound issues.

      RE: 2. DynAudio is a very fine Danish speaker brand and actually I was sad to see their drivers were no longer being used. They used to provide drivers to the DIY market as well as OEMs but has since stopped which may have been a factor. Again I would not even consider upgarding to third party drivers without a clear understanding of your current limitations. If you went this way I would initially look at a processor (ex: Alpine Imprint) plus amp before changing speakers.

      RE: 3. All of the systems include a passive crossover within the doors. If I was not able to properly bring back the sub level using the routine I specified, my next approach would have been to experiment with adding a high-pass network to the door speakers but located at the amplifier output. I have not meassured the acutal impedance of the woofers, but from the coil resistence they appear to be in the 4 ohm region. I was planning on experimenting with a series non-polarized, bypassed capacitor network in the 330-400uF range which should provide a 6db/octave roll-off with -3db point between 100-120Hz. I do have the test equipment to measure this, so I would not have been flying blind. Having said that, I am not a fan of series capacitance in the woofer path but parallel inductors would be very large and expensive. Even so, a processor/amp combo would perform siginificantly better though be more expensive, remembering that going in I had enough power.

      RE: 4. Upgrading the power amp to the Premium version would be a drop-in according to the electrical diagram. HOWEVER, it would require a software upgrade as it is on the communication bus (In/Out Optical Connector) and very likely would require the driver upgrade in the doors due to power handling. It is also not clear that there is a software update that would accept the amp without the other Premium bits. I would never go this route and simply use the aftermarket proc/amp combo as it would be more flexible and I would bet not any more expensive even if there was an available software update.

      Again, I would not give up on your current configuration just yet. If there are any music tracks in that list that I gave you which you can describe specifically what about the sound is a problem I can try to assist you further.
      Hi Mark-sf,
      Don't said sorry. It's my mistake. You are like my teacher. You gave me a lot of information.
      After setting for a while,i found that something in system incomplete. But i don't know the real cause of mistake. I will start to check step by step. I'm too confidence with my wiring. I will post the report.
      And thank you very much for your reply. It's let me more understand the system. It's my first car with Can-Bus system. I don't recognize with high level system,my local after market almost in low level system. Before, i like the frog in small world. After i read your reply about initiate with Alpine Imprint processor, that gave me the idea and more understand the way to upgrade. I'm very exciting to research . I will study possibility to upgrade, may be not.
      My idea upgrade system for now is Alpine PXE-H660 processor + Alpine PDX-5 amp (4x75w+1x300w) + Hertz HSK163 front speaker (3ways) + Hertz HSK165 rear speaker (2ways). + D.I.Y. Low end sub.
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    29. #97
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Hi Mark-sf,
      Finally i found the fault point on the system. It was a Auto. trigger. When i cut the input speaker of Auto. Trigger out. The Fosgate amp. also still turn on. I can setting the amp. and can follow your guide.
      I set 60HzEQ to 0, Bass control to 0 ,the Fosgate crossover to 150Hz, the gain control to 2.5 . The bass sound was perfect as i tested outside the car. I think the Auto. trigger will load the signal input, cause low voltage to amplifier. Do you have this problem? Now i use the LED on Remote Punch Eq. to monitor the status of Fosgate amp. When i shout off the engine this LED will turn off.

      I still reduce 1kHz EQ to -3. Because the power of main amp is bit low. The volume gain is 75% for normal listen song for pop song reach to 90%. In my opinion, when the volume gain over 75%, the mid sound is come too much for me.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      I feel the Volvo High Performance Amp. has too low power. And i worry about to increase the high volume gain will kill the amp. soon.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 10-03-2012 at 10:58 AM.
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    30. #98
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      I will study the solution to improve the sound system in the future like the hobby.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 03-13-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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    31. #99
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      Finally i found the fault point on the system. It was a Auto. trigger. When i cut the input speaker of Auto. Trigger out. The Fosgate amp. also still turn on. I can setting the amp. and can follow your guide.
      I set 60HzEQ to 0, Bass control to 0 ,the Fosgate crossover to 150Hz, the gain control to 2.5 . The bass sound was perfect as i tested outside the car. I think the Auto. trigger will load the signal input, cause low voltage to amplifier. Do you have this problem? Now i use the LED on Remote Punch Eq. to monitor the status of Fosgate amp. When i shout off the engine this LED will turn off.

      [IMG]ฝากรูป
      Thanks: ฝากรูป, บอลวันนี้[/IMG]

      I still reduce 1kHz EQ to -3. Because the power of main amp is bit low. The volume gain is 75% for normal listen song for pop song reach to 90%. In my opinion, when the volume gain over 75%, the mid sound is come too much for me.

      [IMG]ฝากรูป
      Thanks: ฝากรูป, บอลวันนี้[/IMG]

      I feel the Volvo High Performance Amp. has too low power. And i worry about to increase the high volume gain will kill the amp. soon.
      I'm glad you found the issue. I have not seen a problem with with the trigger circuit loading the amp. I don't understand what your wiring issue which you described as "When i cut the input speaker of Auto. Trigger out." If you meant that the output from the amp when you cut the bass was not high enough to trigger the Fosgate using the Navone trigger, then that is possible due to the 2 ohm loading not creating much voltage.

      I do agree that there is only so much output level that you can get from the existing drivers and amp even removing the low bass. However, you should not worry about "killing the amp" as long as you are not hearing distortion. Removing the low bass from the amp actually reduces its stress and heat.
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    32. #100
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I'm glad you found the issue. I have not seen a problem with with the trigger circuit loading the amp. I don't understand what your wiring issue which you described as "When i cut the input speaker of Auto. Trigger out." If you meant that the output from the amp when you cut the bass was not high enough to trigger the Fosgate using the Navone trigger, then that is possible due to the 2 ohm loading not creating much voltage.

      I do agree that there is only so much output level that you can get from the existing drivers and amp even removing the low bass. However, you should not worry about "killing the amp" as long as you are not hearing distortion. Removing the low bass from the amp actually reduces its stress and heat.

      Hi Mark-sf,
      "When i cut the input speaker of Auto. Trigger out". I mean that the output of Auto. Trigger can remote the amp but can't adjust the gain of Fosgate if connected the Auto. Trigger input to the Volvo speaker output.
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    33. #101
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      I have the same Fosgate amp in my S60 and the base 40x4 Volvo amplifier (High Performance audio). When
      I used an external level sensing device to power on the Fosgate the Fosgate would oscillate on and off with
      the beat of the music (it was not the Navone part Mark is using -- something similar I picked up at Frys
      Electronics). I think the device I had was poorly made and the issue was with that and not the Fosgate amplifier.
      I had not considered the two ohm load and reduced voltage from cutting the bass (that makes sense since it
      would oscillate with the bass beat). The Fosgate is a class D amplifier and I think they are picky about input
      voltage stability so this was probably not helping

      I did eventually find the base 40x4 Volvo amp will work with the auto-on feature in the Fosgate amplifier.
      So the external (Navone like) trigger is probably not needed with the "base" Volvo amplifier.

      Other notes (again, for a sedan, but I think worth mentioning):

      I experimented with swapping polarity to the woofers (in rear deck) and it sounded better when reversed. Probably
      not valid to compare with the box setup but I always like to experiment a bit.

      I originally tapped off the rear speaker leads and then switched to the fronts. The rears work but
      the fronts provided a stronger signal (it played louder at the same amp gain setting) and it seems less
      distorted.

      I find the fader effects the upper mid-bass a lot in the sedan. I keep it slightly biased towards the front (by
      one or two notches) which seems to help with the "chestiness" in male voices.
      Last edited by krn; 03-14-2012 at 11:54 AM.
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    34. #102
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      I need a more detailed shot of what wires are actually being spliced as I'd rather feed from the factory amp wires vice the doors. From there I'd like to output from the external amp to the outputs of the factory
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    35. #103
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      Quote Originally Posted by mhc2007 View Post
      Hi Mark-sf,
      "When i cut the input speaker of Auto. Trigger out". I mean that the output of Auto. Trigger can remote the amp but can't adjust the gain of Fosgate if connected the Auto. Trigger input to the Volvo speaker output.
      I now understand. Yes, adjusting the trigger level does not adjust the gain.
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    36. #104
      Junior Member mhc2007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by krn View Post
      I have the same Fosgate amp in my S60 and the base 40x4 Volvo amplifier (High Performance audio). When
      I used an external level sensing device to power on the Fosgate the Fosgate would oscillate on and off with
      the beat of the music (it was not the Navone part Mark is using -- something similar I picked up at Frys
      Electronics). I think the device I had was poorly made and the issue was with that and not the Fosgate amplifier.
      I had not considered the two ohm load and reduced voltage from cutting the bass (that makes sense since it
      would oscillate with the bass beat). The Fosgate is a class D amplifier and I think they are picky about input
      voltage stability so this was probably not helping

      I did eventually find the base 40x4 Volvo amp will work with the auto-on feature in the Fosgate amplifier.
      So the external (Navone like) trigger is probably not needed with the "base" Volvo amplifier.

      Other notes (again, for a sedan, but I think worth mentioning):

      I experimented with swapping polarity to the woofers (in rear deck) and it sounded better when reversed. Probably
      not valid to compare with the box setup but I always like to experiment a bit.

      I originally tapped off the rear speaker leads and then switched to the fronts. The rears work but
      the fronts provided a stronger signal (it played louder at the same amp gain setting) and it seems less
      distorted.

      I find the fader effects the upper mid-bass a lot in the sedan. I keep it slightly biased towards the front (by
      one or two notches) which seems to help with the "chestiness" in male voices.
      Hi krn,
      The Auto. Trigger is fine to remote turn on the Fosgate Amp.. But when i used Auto. Trigger, I can't adjust the Fosgate gain. It seem like the speaker signal was too low or short, when i connected Auto Trigger..

      Thank you for your sharing.
      Last edited by mhc2007; 03-14-2012 at 11:33 PM.
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    37. #105
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      Quote Originally Posted by Putertech View Post
      I need a more detailed shot of what wires are actually being spliced as I'd rather feed from the factory amp wires vice the doors. From there I'd like to output from the external amp to the outputs of the factory
      The front channel outputs from the Premium amp are on Pins 1(1) & 9(+) for the Right Channel and pins 3(-) and 11(+) for the Left Channel. These pins are stacked since it is a 16-pin connector. Pin 1 is on the opposite side from the solid red wire which is in pin 16. If you want to do a splice at the amp output I would strongly recommend the Parrot harness I provide a link to on the first page.
      Last edited by mark-sf; 03-14-2012 at 11:57 PM.
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