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    1. #211
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End

      It won't fit unfortunately.

      There are a few very detailed threads on how to do this. Mark-sf, bhom920, and I have done this. The dimensions are well noted. You've got about 35.5 " wide by 11.5" deep x 6 inches tall to work with. With that width it will require you to move some wires around.


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      Last edited by tunedxc60; 02-09-2017 at 11:03 AM.
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    3. #212
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      11.5" deep, are people fitting 12" subs in their XC60's?

    4. #213
      Member Ocean Racer's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by AschMan View Post
      11.5" deep, are people fitting 12" subs in their XC60's?
      No.
      A properly tuned and ported 10" or 8" sub will outperform a lazy 12"
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    6. #214
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      I have two 10's. it was hard to find the right setup but JL Audio makes a few options as does Alpine.


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    7. #215
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      Just took measurements and it looks like 32 inches is about the widest that would fit if you want to use the full 11 inch depth. There is a structural beam that would intrude towards the front that would force the box towards the spare tire. Bummer, really wanted the JL ported 8's to work.
      Last edited by AschMan; 02-12-2017 at 09:44 AM.

    8. #216
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      Yes, the structural beams on the sides cut the corners on an angle and prevent you from using the full 36" width. I have two 10" units ( model CS110LG-TW1-2) that measure 30" wide x 11.75" deep, and 5.6" high. That is about as big as you can fit without cutting those beams (probably not a good idea).
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    9. #217
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      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      Yes, the structural beams on the sides cut the corners on an angle and prevent you from using the full 36" width. I have two 10" units ( model CS110LG-TW1-2) that measure 30" wide x 11.75" deep, and 5.6" high. That is about as big as you can fit without cutting those beams (probably not a good idea).
      . Haha, not going to cut that sheet metal. Looking for another box that could work.

    10. #218
      Junior Member ckracer76's Avatar
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      This is an amazing in depth audio thread - I believe great audio is an important aspect of car ownership and enjoyment.

      Thank you

    11. #219
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      You don’t have to cut sheet metal. The two boxes I have (had) fit fine.


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    12. #220
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      Quote Originally Posted by tunedxc60 View Post
      You don?t have to cut sheet metal. The two boxes I have (had) fit fine.
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      That was back in Feb, I am all set now thanks to your help. Just wish I could have squeezed a 12 inch sub under the cargo floor in a custom fiberglass box taking up unused space.

    13. #221
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    14. #222
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      I know this thread is old as dirt but, when Mark-SF you say you ran the fuse line thru the rear distribution box, can you explain that a little further? Maybe a pic?

    15. #223
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      I came out the front towards the engine but coming out the rear would be really stealth!

    16. #224
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      So, amp installed sucessfully ising most of the same procedures in the original post. Only one noteworthy issue. When I turn my car off, I get what I think is the "ground loop" subwoofer hum. For about 5 seconds the sub will sound at max volume. I THOUGHT that maybe it was the amp because I did use an older amp. So, I replaced the amp. Still does it. Help me Audiophiles. You're my only hope.

    17. #225
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      How are you turning on the amp? Some amps seem to have difficulty using the high level signal sensing to auto turn on the amp. My alpine amp worked fine but you may need an extra box to create low level leads and a remote amp turn on.

    18. #226
      Junior Member tunedxc60's Avatar
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      DIY Subwoofer Project - A Premium Journey to the Low End

      Have you diagnosed whether it is when turning the car off or when locking the car? I would get a full blast hum when I locked the car and I diagnosed it to be since the rear locking sensor in the trunk was causing the interference and picked up via the speaker wire going from the speaker wire to the speakers themselves. With the low impedance speakers they kind of act like an antenna and any small signal will make them go crazy. See if you can shield the trunk mounted sensor in the middle of the trunk and/or use shielded speaker wire.i verified it wasn’t a ground loop because the amp turned off the vehicle so it has nothing to do with the amp itself - it’s all speakers. These were on my 2w jlaudio speakers.



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      Last edited by tunedxc60; 03-28-2018 at 09:06 PM.
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    19. #227
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lcwoods529 View Post
      I know this thread is old as dirt but, when Mark-SF you say you ran the fuse line thru the rear distribution box, can you explain that a little further? Maybe a pic?
      Been away for a while and missed your post. I ran the power wire from the amp in the right rear corner under the lift gate trim and to the fuse block in the left ( Driver) corner.


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    20. #228
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lcwoods529 View Post
      So, amp installed sucessfully ising most of the same procedures in the original post. Only one noteworthy issue. When I turn my car off, I get what I think is the "ground loop" subwoofer hum. For about 5 seconds the sub will sound at max volume. I THOUGHT that maybe it was the amp because I did use an older amp. So, I replaced the amp. Still does it. Help me Audiophiles. You're my only hope.
      AschMan is right. You need to provide details on how you are remote powering the amp. Some amps are looking for a DC voltage on the speaker outs which the VOLVO amp does not provide. Also it is very important that you have a close solid ground connection. Please include amp models as well as wiring details.


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    21. #229
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      I used the 12v remote line to an ignition controlled fuse point. I created a new ground point to the body so the ground line is not shared with any other grounds. The amp is an Alpine 500w mono channel amp. The amp wiring is all gauged/wired as per the tech specs suggested based on wattages, etc. I wired the speakers in the same fashion as the original post. I do have a 12v trigger and a line input jack I was going to try if necessary.

      This is the amp:

      https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M5...70_&dpSrc=srch

    22. #230
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      Hmm, that is the same amp that I used and the signal sensing is working just fine.

      Not sure if it made a difference but I ran the left and right channel inputs from the factory amp into both front and rear inputs on the amp. I only used the front channel output from the factory amp as the rear seems to filter out the bass.

      No turn off drama at all.

    23. #231
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      Did you use the RCA inputs or the speaker level input connector?

    24. #232
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lcwoods529 View Post
      Did you use the RCA inputs or the speaker level input connector?
      .

      I used the speaker level inputs, but ran them parallel so that all rights and lefts were used.

    25. #233
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lcwoods529 View Post
      I used the 12v remote line to an ignition controlled fuse point. I created a new ground point to the body so the ground line is not shared with any other grounds. The amp is an Alpine 500w mono channel amp. The amp wiring is all gauged/wired as per the tech specs suggested based on wattages, etc. I wired the speakers in the same fashion as the original post. I do have a 12v trigger and a line input jack I was going to try if necessary.

      This is the amp:

      https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M5...70_&dpSrc=srch
      I hope you are not using the rear fuse block with this amp as its current capacity is way undersized. Note the amp has 60A fuse requirement and requires direct battery connection. You also stated that you connected the remote power-on to an ignition controlled fuse point. I don't know which year or model you have, but such a point does not exist in the rear of my XC60 and the later years until the new 2018s. Please explain in more detail. Finally you must use the speaker inputs from only the OEM amp front speaker outputs to get full range. Do not create parallel connections with other channels. It can cause feedback.
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    26. #234
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      Correct, only use the front channel outputs from the factory amp. However, I used all inputs on the alpine amp by splitting into multiple channels. Maybe this is the trick to get enough signal for proper turn on/off

    27. #235
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this ,esp, Mark SF......doing an install on my 15 polestar, does anyone know if wiring at amp is the same as listed here?
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    28. #236
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      If your amp connector looks the same and wiring colors are the same then you should be good to go.
      Last edited by AschMan; 07-30-2019 at 05:45 AM. Reason: Spelling

    29. #237
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      Quote Originally Posted by BellevilleV70 View Post
      Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this ,esp, Mark SF......doing an install on my 15 polestar, does anyone know if wiring at amp is the same as listed here?
      I’m glad you have found this useful. You should be fine with the wiring as I also have a 2015 V60 and the audio components are from those here.

      Report back on your results.


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    30. #238
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      In and working great! This install was on my 15 P* Ran #4 wire to batt, this was super easy on LH side, and there is a big rubber grommet to left of brake pedal. You can look down behind batt and see it almost so super easy hookup. There are several unused ground spots in back, so ran #4 to one of them. The amp I used also has an optional bass control knob , so also bought that and ran wire up LH side, and mounted knob on lower side of column. Ran 12v trigger and speaker wires down right side. Trigger just picks up in larger of 2 front fuse boxes. There is an unused spot there in both this car and the xc60, that is ign controlled.

      Amp is a JL JX500/1D, Sub is an older 10in Infinity Kappa in a ported box. Yes it takes up space, but this is my second car, so that's not an issue,plus I already had it. I'll try it sitting a few different ways before I figure a way to secure it.

      So far with a bit of tweaking its sounds great! So nice to get some bass out of the doors and kill the rattles. I bought a decent mic, and have the audio tool app, now just have to figure how to use it! I'll post some pics below.
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    31. #239
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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    32. #240
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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    33. #241
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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    34. #242
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Anyone have a good tutorial on how to use the audiotools app.? This doesn't sound quite right, seems to have a hole down in the midbass somewhere
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    35. #243
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      Quote Originally Posted by BellevilleV70 View Post
      Anyone have a good tutorial on how to use the audiotools app.? This doesn't sound quite right, seems to have a hole down in the midbass somewhere
      I don’t have a tutorial reference, but would suggest that you take this approach.

      1. Since the equalizer is not a true one where there is isolation between the bands, I would first use AudioTools to evaluate its effects w/o the sub. You can use the RTA feature connecting via USB and selecting Pink Noise, Mono and .5sec Decay.

      2. Turn of all Dolby, Compensation, and perspective effects. Center the Bass and Treble Controls. Move each band control through its operation range and observe its impact on frequency. If your 2015 is like my 2011 you will see significant interaction. Not that you will need to get your levels up to +85dbA and do this in a quiet space without traffic or air/heating running.

      3. The goal is to adjust the lower bands in order to produce an consistent roll-off of 12-18db an octave from where you want your sub to kick in. For example, if you want your sub to reproduce below 80Hz, then you want your EQ set to be -6db down from your mid level at 80Hz and at least -18db down at 40Hz. If you are unable to cut the bass enough with just the EQ, add further cut with the Bass control. Always watch for interaction and compensate.

      4. Once you’ve set the EQ, then add your sub making sure its High Pass filter is no higher than 80Hz. You will not be able to reliably measure its bass using the RTA method due to the closed car pressurized environment, but you should be able to use your ears and well known music to bring up the bass level to where you like it.

      Hope this helps.

      Mark


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      Last edited by mark-sf; 08-05-2019 at 04:38 PM.
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    36. #244
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Thanks Mark, spent some time tweaking tonight. Getting closer. I still think I will have to sound mat the front doors, still get a few rattles. Very impressed with the amp, it REALLY works that sub. Thanks again for the help
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    37. #245
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Hi mark-sf. I had saved this great article for a year since buying my 2018 xc60 and hoping it would work for this newer model.
      Now that I have looked into it, it appears that I don't have the depth to fit the enclosure under the cargo tray without cutting a hole in the cargo lid (even though there are no cross members in the lid to remove). Max depth seems to be 5". The alternative would be to thin the box, but even with those earthquake sws subs, there's probably not enough room to give. My only way would be cut the sub enclosure shape out of the tray and cover in the same material so you see the top of box flush with the cargo tray. Maybe make a replacement tray and keep the original for if i sell the car. Would you agree? I like the idea of keeping it out of the way and don't really want to have to go to a conventional sub box in the boot itself. Are those internal dimensions critical if I were to change the box size, so I keep to the same volumes?
      Thanks.
      Cheers,
      Raoul

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