Oil Change and Automatic Tramission change DIY?
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    1. #1
      Junior Member 244_GLT_TurboBrick's Avatar
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      Oil Change and Automatic Tramission change DIY?

      Help? I dont want to go to the dealer ship,too costly,sorry i'm very new to the older volvo's,can I use castrol edge? thanks,and all I have to do for the auto trans change is buy the ipd tool and just drain it?
      1983 244 GLT,project car/new daily driver
      2005 S40 T5 AWD,baby carrier/ipd TCV,Toyo proxies T1-R's,custom flow sound exhaust,Auto meter boost gauge custom A pillar gauge fitting

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    3. #2
      Junior Member drbombay's Avatar
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      ATF change: IPD hose (or similar) makes it real easy. IPD includes very detailed instructions. Make sure you set the ATF level correctly after you are done.

    4. #3
      Junior Member JBLasVegas's Avatar
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      You mean that older Volvos don't have a drain plug on their Automatics? ...And no filter like my long gone XC70? I thought that Volvo only got cheap within about the last ten years or so.

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    6. #4
      Junior Member drbombay's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by JBLasVegas View Post
      You mean that older Volvos don't have a drain plug on their Automatics? ...And no filter like my long gone XC70? I thought that Volvo only got cheap within about the last ten years or so.
      Old-vos do have a drain plug, but just draining and refilling the AT leaves 2 or 3 liters of old fluid in the torque converter. flushing using the trans cooler lines to pump the bad fluid out is by far the easiest AND most thorough way to do it. You don't even have to jack up the car.

      And there is a filter in their, but even if changing that out, it is still best to do the flush afterward.

    7. #5
      Junior Member JBLasVegas's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by drbombay View Post
      Old-vos do have a drain plug, but just draining and refilling the AT leaves 2 or 3 liters of old fluid in the torque converter. flushing using the trans cooler lines to pump the bad fluid out is by far the easiest AND most thorough way to do it. You don't even have to jack up the car.

      And there is a filter in their, but even if changing that out, it is still best to do the flush afterward.
      I remember the good old days when there was a plug on the converter.
      On my old 66 Mustang, I used to drive it up on ramps, drain the fluid, and then unscrew the shield below the torque converter and drive the two quarts or so into the pan.
      Why I got rid of that car is an enigma to me. When I sold it eight years ago, I must have been certifiably insane. I owned it for 23 years. A very rare car, but rarity does not necessarily convert into value. It was a Hi-Po 289 with an automatic and it had AC... (dealer installed) But it was a coupe and not a Fastback. It had all of the GT trimmings and even a vinyl top... Springtime Yellow. I sold it to a guy in North Hollywood for a song. I've been kicking myself in the ass ever since.
      Easy to work on, and if push came to shove... replacement engines for that car are relatively cheap.
      I'm not making the same mistake with my 280 SL... OR my old two door turbo.
      By the way... My 280 and my two door Volvo get the garage while my CTS-V gets the driveway.

    8. #6
      Junior Member JBLasVegas's Avatar
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      Ooop's...

      I meant to say "drain" the converter. Sorry.

    9. #7
      Junior Member drbombay's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by JBLasVegas View Post
      On my old 66 Mustang...Why I got rid of that car is an enigma to me.
      On the selling the 'stang note, I can only say that I've been recently having thoughts of selling my 244 and getting into something else. But, I keep trying to remind myself that's a bad idea. I'm certain that I'd financially/temporally regret selling it, but it might happen.

    10. #8
      Junior Member JBLasVegas's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by drbombay View Post
      On the selling the 'stang note, I can only say that I've been recently having thoughts of selling my 244 and getting into something else. But, I keep trying to remind myself that's a bad idea. I'm certain that I'd financially/temporally regret selling it, but it might happen.
      My first car was an MG Magnette 'Varitone'. Black and silver.
      When the fuel pump in the trunk leaked, the gas was ignited by the bulb contacts when I stepped on the brakes.
      Needless to say, the car was incinerated.
      I had just put MGA wires on the car, and they were the only items salvageable.
      There was no warning. As soon as I smelled gasoline, I stepped on the brakes to pull over, and then BOOM!!!

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by JBLasVegas View Post
      My first car was an MG Magnette 'Varitone'. Black and silver. ...
      Was that the one based on the late 50s Morris Oxford? My buddy had one of those and we called it "The Lodestone GT."
      '88 244 auto (parts car), '89 244 5 spd. (daily driver), '92 245 5 spd. (my car) '80 Holiday Rambler/Ford E350 (tow vehicle and track crash pad), '95 GMC K2500 (local hauler/back-up tow vehicle), '83 Mazda RX7 (race car when I have the funds), '99 Miska 20' car hauler.

      The man's prayer: "I'm a man, but I can change, ... if I have to, ... I guess."

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    13. #11
      Junior Member JBLasVegas's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by John2x240 View Post
      Was that the one based on the late 50s Morris Oxford? My buddy had one of those and we called it "The Lodestone GT."
      No, it was a de-"luxurized" Wolesley but with a more powerful engine and two carbs instead of one.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3603990373/

    14. #12
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      There was a Riley with a similar body that also had twin SUs.
      '88 244 auto (parts car), '89 244 5 spd. (daily driver), '92 245 5 spd. (my car) '80 Holiday Rambler/Ford E350 (tow vehicle and track crash pad), '95 GMC K2500 (local hauler/back-up tow vehicle), '83 Mazda RX7 (race car when I have the funds), '99 Miska 20' car hauler.

      The man's prayer: "I'm a man, but I can change, ... if I have to, ... I guess."

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