04VR has alternator whine in factory amp audio
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    1. #1
      Member n23's Avatar
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      Question 04VR has alternator whine in factory amp audio

      [2004 VR, HU is a JVC KW-AVX840, using an eBay DIN to RCA cable for factory amp. Center channel is speaker-level output from HU (LF+ and RF-).]

      I have an annoying hum in the audio on my V70. I'm using a JVC HU and the factory amp. When I switch back to the Volvo HU with the same DIN cable, I have no hum. The hum sounds like typical alternator whine with some extra electrical noise thrown in, I can hear the console lights dimming for instance. It's also louder when the car is in Advanced mode, so I can hear suspension chatter too.

      I don't think it's the JVC because I had a Kenwood previously and had the same issue. I tried a replacement DIN cable to the amp but that didn't work. The audio coming from my center channel is crystal clear, so I know the JVC is putting out a clean signal. That leaves the eBay cable*. On the cable I'm using all 4 RCAs, for the negative I'm using the constant - that also powers the stereo. For the positive I'm using the JVC's remote amp turn-on wire.

      It sounds to me like something isn't grounded correctly and I'm apt to blame the eBay cable, but before I spend money on a replacement, I hoped someone might have some insight.
      Thanks!

      *one of these http://tinyurl.com/7h9tv2t
      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

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    3. #2
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by n23 View Post
      [2004 VR, HU is a JVC KW-AVX840, using an eBay DIN to RCA cable for factory amp. Center channel is speaker-level output from HU (LF+ and RF-).]

      I have an annoying hum in the audio on my V70. I'm using a JVC HU and the factory amp. When I switch back to the Volvo HU with the same DIN cable, I have no hum. The hum sounds like typical alternator whine with some extra electrical noise thrown in, I can hear the console lights dimming for instance. It's also louder when the car is in Advanced mode, so I can hear suspension chatter too.

      I don't think it's the JVC because I had a Kenwood previously and had the same issue. I tried a replacement DIN cable to the amp but that didn't work. The audio coming from my center channel is crystal clear, so I know the JVC is putting out a clean signal. That leaves the eBay cable*. On the cable I'm using all 4 RCAs, for the negative I'm using the constant - that also powers the stereo. For the positive I'm using the JVC's remote amp turn-on wire.

      It sounds to me like something isn't grounded correctly and I'm apt to blame the eBay cable, but before I spend money on a replacement, I hoped someone might have some insight.
      Thanks!

      *one of these http://tinyurl.com/7h9tv2t
      Disconnect this.
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    4. #3
      Member n23's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BEJinFbk View Post
      Disconnect this.
      Will do, thanks for the idea. I just assumed it was necessary, but in thinking about it, the remote amp only needs a switched + to turn on, it has its own power wiring harness.

      Thanks!
      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

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    6. #4
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      Hope that gets it!
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    7. #5
      Member n23's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BEJinFbk View Post
      Hope that gets it!
      No success. I disconnected the negative and the noise increased in volume 400%. That ground is clearly important and getting rid of a bunch of crap. I'm going to pull my cable and use my meter to tone it out and find something obvious. If that doesn't work, I'll try a replacement.
      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

    8. #6
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      I see three leads in addition to the four RCA's in that cable image.
      You should only be using the remote on lead. The other two should
      be superfluous. Is that the way you're set up?

      And - What are you using as a head unit ground?
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    9. #7
      Member n23's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BEJinFbk View Post
      I see three leads in addition to the four RCA's in that cable image.
      You should only be using the remote on lead. The other two should
      be superfluous. Is that the way you're set up?

      And - What are you using as a head unit ground?
      The picture is poor quality and you're really seeing 4 leads:



      The 'not used' lead is actually two smaller wires that are twisted together, I'm not sure what they are for. The red is for remote amp power on, the black, if I disconnect it, exacerbates the issue 10x.

      For HU ground I'm using the ground in the factory harness.
      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

    10. #8
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      You could try earthing it to the headunit chassis or find a different point to earth it and see if that helps.

      I had the same problem with mine however I made the lead myself, I ended up changing HU and ran out of RCA's so the factory amp does nothing I only have front speakers and a sub.

    11. #9
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      I would try attaching the the Negative of the Adapter as well as the Negative of the JVC to the closest chassis ground. The Negative of the adapter should not be connected to the JVC. It appears that the stock amp is expecting a remote turn-on ground instead of using its local one.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    12. #10
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I would try attaching the the Negative of the Adapter as well as the Negative of the JVC to the closest chassis ground. The Negative of the adapter should not be connected to the JVC. It appears that the stock amp is expecting a remote turn-on ground instead of using its local one.
      ?
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    13. #11
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      Let's review.
      You've had the same noise issue with TWO aftermarket HU's.
      There was no noise with the stock HU.
      The common thread is tha DIN/RCA adapter cable.

      It may be time to slide the DIN shell back and see what's going on in there.
      There are only 6 connections to deal with (7, if you count the shield ).
      You should see the 4 center conductors of each RCA on seperate pins.
      You should see the 4 shields from the RCA's all connected to one pin.
      And there should be a single 12 volt positive remote on at one pin.

      None of these should be connected to any of the others, but may be.
      Inspect closely and be sure that none of the pins are bridged.

      Now get out a meter set for OHMS and check it for shorts.
      Unplug both ends. Use your meter to look for continuity between
      the 4 RCA centers and the grounds. They should all be isolated.

      One other experiment. Unplug all the RCA's and anything but the
      remote turn on lead. We want the amp on, but no other connections.
      If you're dealing with a ground loop, the system should be dead silent.
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by BEJinFbk View Post
      ?
      This type of noise develops when there is current flow between the audio grounds and the power grounds. In the case of a remote amp, there is also the potential current flow between grounds located at different points within the car. Because the HU is responsible for providing both audio and it's grounds as well as remote power for amp turn-on, depending on the design, it can make sense to have the remote 12v return current go back to the HU since it should be very small. Without creating ASCII diagrams I was trying to describe a single point ground connect scheme that instead of the remote ground going from the adapter->JVC->chassis thus sharing the ground with the HU's power, connect the adapter ground->chassis at the same attachment point as the HU's ground.
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    15. #13
      Member n23's Avatar
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      Thanks for the help and posts everyone, I really appreciate it.

      Over the weekend I ordered a replacement adapter cable from a different eBay vendor, it arrived and I have the same hum. I inspected it and it's slightly different, physically, from my existing one, so I'm going to tone both of them out and make some diagrams.

      I hadn't considered applying only +12 to the amp to see if it's outputting noise internally, I'll try that.

      A few years back I replaced the 6 pin DIN cable with one I made myself. It toned out exactly the same as the OEM one, but I'm going to revisit it.

      I also might made a new adapter cable that does away with the OEM 6-pin DIN cable entirely and just goes RCAs from the JVC to the amp area.

      Thanks again!
      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

    16. #14
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      Like Mark posted, it sounds a lot like a ground loop.
      Check for noise with the RCA's unplugged to confirm.
      I don't think it has anything to do with the remote on, though.
      I've never run across having a remote cause alternator whine,
      but anything's, possible. Start with the unplugged RCA test.
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    17. #15
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      Mystery Solved

      I had an hour to play with it today and after 58 minutes I have determined that my OEM, factory amp is not wired the same as apparently everyone else's. I didn't have time to make finish the cable and clean it up, but briefly:

      1. My RL and FL inputs are reversed on the 6 pin DIN cable
      2. What for everyone else is the FR + input is for me the remote + on
      3. My remote power on is the FR + input
      4. I think my shield and my input-group - are reversed but I'll have to check.

      So all this time my homemade 6 pin DIN cable was fine and the two eBay cables were fine too, the issue was my amp. Either the factory 6 pin DIN cable is wired to correct the miswire or the OEM HU's pin-out doesn't match everyone else but matches the OEM amp. Who knows.

      Later tonight or tomorrow I'll fully document my Frankenstein cable and the model/serials of my OEM HU and amp in case it helps someone else.

      Thanks again!
      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

    18. #16
      Member n23's Avatar
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      As promised, here are the pinouts for my factory amp vs. the normal ones.

      Normal on top (A), mine on bottom (B)



      Here's the mini cable I made on the workbench. Using a few RCA barrels I connect it to the pre-outs on my JVC and the remote amp + send from the JVC as well. Crystal clear, finally!

      | 04 FLO R IDA V |

    19. #17
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      So it appears that you have a mirror image.
      It seems like there may have been a problem
      somewhere along the line with pinout gender.
      Stuff happens and that would do it.

      And a nice bench you have there - I like that Weller.
      At any rate, glad you got it and thanks for the post back!
      Last edited by BEJinFbk; 03-08-2012 at 04:23 PM.
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    20. #18
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      I just wanted to add a note to this thread on my experience.

      I had very similar symptoms and even work with Jonathan on using his modified connector to try and resolve it.

      Ultimately, (I also let Brian know who sells these connectors on ebay) the solution was:
      * connect the black wire from the connector to the two shield wires (the two sheild wires are connected one to the DIN shield and the other to the RCA sheild)
      * do NOT connect the black wire to any ground, rather take the 3 wires and I shrink wrapped them together

      For my car, it seems that the ground is addressed already through the DIN shield of the connector back to the amp, so connecting that all up to ground eliminated what sounds like a ground loop.
      2007 S60R MT Magic Blue / Atacama (painful conversion from Nordkap) Upgrades: IPD Oval exhaust & downpipe, IPD "R Kelly" CAI, IPD stage 2 tune, Kenwood GPS/stereo integrated to factory amps/speakers/steering wheel controls.
      2004 S60R MT Sapphire Black / Atacama retired / parting out. I miss this car.
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    21. #19
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      i think i'm having the same problem
      hopefully i have the same solution haha

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by hamsterinwa View Post
      Ultimately, (I also let Brian know who sells these connectors on ebay) the solution was:
      * connect the black wire from the connector to the two shield wires (the two sheild wires are connected one to the DIN shield and the other to the RCA sheild)
      * do NOT connect the black wire to any ground, rather take the 3 wires and I shrink wrapped them together
      Combining the grounds was what fixed it for me with a BrianG cable. Although I was the reverse of your setup, a stock HU and an aftermarket amp(s).
      iPD tune / Bilstein HD /25mm sways / Heico dual exhaust / OE sport body kit / HID Projectors / VST strut brace / EU power folding mirror kit / iMIV / Volvotech CFE / etc.

    23. #21
      Member strikeoutss's Avatar
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      Re: 04VR has alternator whine in factory amp audio

      Quote Originally Posted by hamsterinwa View Post
      I just wanted to add a note to this thread on my experience.

      I had very similar symptoms and even work with Jonathan on using his modified connector to try and resolve it.

      Ultimately, (I also let Brian know who sells these connectors on ebay) the solution was:
      * connect the black wire from the connector to the two shield wires (the two sheild wires are connected one to the DIN shield and the other to the RCA sheild)
      * do NOT connect the black wire to any ground, rather take the 3 wires and I shrink wrapped them together

      For my car, it seems that the ground is addressed already through the DIN shield of the connector back to the amp, so connecting that all up to ground eliminated what sounds like a ground loop.
      Hey if you are still around any chance posting a picture of this. Pardon the pun but this reads like stereo instructions and I learn visually.

      Thanks for your time

      Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
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    24. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by strikeoutss View Post
      Hey if you are still around any chance posting a picture of this. Pardon the pun but this reads like stereo instructions and I learn visually.

      Thanks for your time

      Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

      Sorry but I don't. It actually sounds more complicated than it is.

      You can see where there are a couple of wires that came with shrink wrap on them. All that needs to be done is rather than connect the black wire from the connector to ground, connect it with the 2 wires that were shrink wrapped together and then either tape them up or shrink wrap them back up.
      2007 S60R MT Magic Blue / Atacama (painful conversion from Nordkap) Upgrades: IPD Oval exhaust & downpipe, IPD "R Kelly" CAI, IPD stage 2 tune, Kenwood GPS/stereo integrated to factory amps/speakers/steering wheel controls.
      2004 S60R MT Sapphire Black / Atacama retired / parting out. I miss this car.
      1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Spyder (my other 300+hp AWD car)

    25. #23
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      This thread just saved my sanity. I rewired my new radio install at least 3 times with no success. It turns out that all I have to do was connect the ground with the two wires that were shrink wrapped together on the amp harness. Thanks from 5 years in the future!

    26. #24
      Member BEJinFbk's Avatar
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      Good thing modern Volvos have no trouble getting up to 88 MPH!
      '98 V70 R - Is the AWD worth it? You Betcha!

    27. #25
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by strikeoutss View Post
      Hey if you are still around any chance posting a picture of this. Pardon the pun but this reads like stereo instructions and I learn visually.
      I ran into this same issue with an Alpine Halo9 head unit, using the factory amp harness included in the Metra 709223 kit on my 2005 S60R.

      This thread was a TOTAL lifesaver to me. It wasn't quite clear to me what was involved while I reading the thread from my phone in the middle of a head unit install, but after a while I got it.

      Basically you need to take apart the DIN connector & re-route the ground wire so that it makes contact with the DIN shield, then re-assemble.

      Here's some pictures to illustrate:

      met-709223-0.jpg
      met-709223-1.jpg
      met-709223-2.jpg
      met-709223-3.jpg

      Hope this helps someone else as much as this thread helped me!
      Last edited by Arch Stanton; 08-10-2018 at 03:24 AM.
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    28. #26
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      Thank you so much for this thread, it saved me a ton of time. I ended up tieing all three wires (on the din harness) together minus the switched power wire. It also shut up when I touched the din cable ground wire to the back of the radio chassis.

    29. #27
      Arch - Thank you so much!!!! Worked like a charm. I cut off the black wire and made a jumper to connect the black pin to the din connector. No more noise.

    30. #28
      Member 91shelby's Avatar
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      Is the pinout looking at it from the male side or female side on the amplifier? I've been trying to add an amp to my 04 vr and have a cable that has both male and female, 4 rcas and amp on cable to add to the stock setup but no matter what i've tried i get noise
      2004 C70 T5 AT vert 77k Black Sapphire
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    31. #29
      Fix worked great for me for about a year. Now the noise is back. I need to pull the radio back out and see what happened.

    32. #30
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      Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. Iím trying to use the 4x100 watt
      amplifier from and 04 Volvo C70. Iím getting a whining noise when the
      system is on with and with out the engine running. I am using the din
      cable that is part of part number 3533717. Upon further research Iím find
      the cable is for a V70. Im not sure if itís the right one to use with the
      4x100 amp option. Per the post above some of the din sockets on
      the amps may be wired differently and corrected in the din cable itself.
      Iíve purchased 2 adapters and both generate the same noise when connected.

      Is the 3533717 din cable with
      2 right angle plugs, the right one to use with the 4x100
      amp? BrianG on eBay sells a din cable, should I get that one instead?

      Thanks in advance.



      Thanks,
      Dwane

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