V50 SCU replacement - key stuck - HELP needed.
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    1. #1
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      V50 SCU replacement - key stuck - HELP needed.

      Hi all,

      So I know that the ignition lock failing is a common issue on S40/V50 and now I am part of the stats as well.

      I have a V50 T5 Aut. MY2005 which recently started to not allow me to turn the key all the way to position 0. There is nothing wrong with the shiftlock button and after having a dealer plugging in the VIDA, they also came to the conclusion that the SCU needs replacement.

      About a year ago I had the steering lock issue and had the SCL (not SCU) replaced. My auto transmission also failed on me and I had to spend a ridiculous amount of money even if it was a refurbished transmission. Unforeseen faults have so far cost me a truckload of money and now this! Pissed off with the so-called reliability.

      Bought the car when it had about 65,000 km (40,000 miles) on the clock and I've only put 50,000 km (31,000 miles) on it over 4 years time - during which it has been pampered and very well taken care of. But yet it continues to puke on me Anyway, enough with the rant.

      In any case, my wallet and I are sick and tired of throwing money after numerous problems I have had with the car and so I am trying my best to save some money.

      So I would really appreciate if someone could advise me on the following:

      - Can I use a second hand SCU from any 2004-2007 S40/V50 (regardless of engine/transmission spec)?

      - Can I use a second hand SCU from a 2008 onwards S40/V50 (regardless of engine/transmission spec)? It would be nice if I could at least get the latest key design now that I once again have to break the piggy bank.

      - Can I also use the SCU from a C30/C70?

      - AFAIK no programming is needed for the SCU, correct?

      - I assume I would have no use for my old keys if replacing the SCU? Or can they be re-programmed?

      - How many hours should it take to replace the SCU? My Volvo mechanic has never done this before and I'd like to have a time reference so it doesn't become overly labor expensive.


      Sorry about the many questions - any insight is much appreciated.

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    3. #2
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Anyone?

    4. #3
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      So many experts but no comments? Come on guys, I can't believe no one knows?

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    6. #4
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      The ignition switch itself is fairly easy to do. Shouldn't take much more than an hour. Your key remains the same, no programming. You are only replacing the part you turn with the plastic "key". The actual key (electronic) is tied to another unit for which programming is required. Clear?
      At the Tasca price you might as well get a new updated unit. It looks like all the various old part numbers now supersede:

      New Part Number 31300586
      Part Name IGNITION SWITCH
      MSRP $221.16
      Core $0.00
      Online Price $142.43
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    7. #5
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Thanks a lot for the info.

      In the meantime I spoke to a few people with varying replies. While some said I could use any ignition switch from any S40/V50, others said there was a different part no for cars with auto transmission. Can anyone clarify?

      I found a few second hand SCUs with part no 31300585 (not 31300586). Do you know if this is only compatible for a manual transmission spec?


      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      The ignition switch itself is fairly easy to do. Shouldn't take much more than an hour. Your key remains the same, no programming. You are only replacing the part you turn with the plastic "key". The actual key (electronic) is tied to another unit for which programming is required. Clear?
      At the Tasca price you might as well get a new updated unit. It looks like all the various old part numbers now supersede:

      New Part Number 31300586
      Part Name IGNITION SWITCH
      MSRP $221.16
      Core $0.00
      Online Price $142.43

    8. #6
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      All I can tell you is what VIDA has listed. It has differing part numbers for auto/manual & they also differ for early & late chassis number. When you plug any of those in it gives a supersession to the number above. You're on your own assuming it works in the reverse.

      No 31300585

      Ignition switch 1.00 30797783
      CH -293439, MAN.TRANS, EXC (CA), (US)

      Ignition switch 1.00 31252481
      CH 293440-, MAN.TRANS, EXC (CA), (US)

      Ignition switch 1.00 30797784
      CH -309759, MAN.TRANS, (CA), (US), AUTO.TRANS

      Ignition switch 1.00 31252482
      CH 309760-, MAN.TRANS, (CA), (US)

      Ignition switch 1.00 31252482
      AUTO.TRANS
      Last edited by pczeilon; 02-28-2012 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Added Info.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    9. #7
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      So I managed to find a compatible SCU at a good price. I am keen on doing the replacement myself, but wondering if anyone could be kind enough to provide a how-to guide?

      Any help is much appreciated.

    10. #8
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      I can provide the steps IF you agree to take pictures & post a "how-to".
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    11. #9
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      I can provide the steps IF you agree to take pictures & post a "how-to".
      Thanks! I am willing to post a guide with pictures, but I am not sure if I can do the replacement without having the guide with pictures in the first place

      But I am willing to try, so would definitely appreciate if you could provide the steps.

    12. #10
      Member -ForceFed-'s Avatar
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      The SCU has superseded a handful of times like many other failure prone parts from Volvo. I do know that when looking it up in the actual Volvo parts catalog that it is listed different part numbers for auto/manual trans and I believe even some model years. Whether those numbers supersede to the same one (very common even when listed separately) I can't say for sure anymore since I don't have access to the info.

      On the other hand I have replaced probably a dozen of them and it sucks. The dash is sharp as hell and it's not as easy as it sounds to get the screws out that hold the SCU to the dash from behind.

      U need to basically remove all of the components surrounding the SCU including all panels, center console to pull the head unit, instrument cluster panel, and lower panels. All of which so u can unscrew that portion of the dash and pull towards u to fish ur hands and tools up there. Besides that space is so limited I purchased mini ratchets that use torx bit inserts rather than a 1/4" drive ratchet and torx socket which is too bulky.

      With the dash pulled towards you it's just enough to fish ur hands either thru the instrument cluster area or the head unit area to remove the torx screws that attach the SCU to the dash. Not gonna lie it's not my favorite job to do. U are correct however and norogramming is required, I actually keep a spare SCU in my trunk in case mine ever fails when I'm out of town.
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    13. #11
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Items FF referred to need to come out. Waterfall, CD player, Instrument cluster & panel below. You should be able to figure those out with the sticky guides & common sense. Let me know if you run into trouble & I'll supply more info.



      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    14. #12
      Member -ForceFed-'s Avatar
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      The more u strip the easier the job haha
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    15. #13
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Thanks Kyle!

      Yes, you are correct about superseeding - seems to be a truckload of numbers floating around. The SCU I bought was listed as 30659838, which was confirmed to be the right SCU for C30/S40/V50/C70 with auto transmission. 30659837 was the number of the SCU for manual transmission.

      As for doing the replacement myself, I am now much less optimistic considering you being a pro not finding it easy It just sucks that I have to pay the equivalent of $250-$300 to have a Volvo tech do the job. At least I found the SCU for about $110, compared to the approx. $450 a new one would cost if buying from a Volvo dealer.

      Living here truly stinks. We have some of the most expensive cars in the world due to insane registration taxes + insanely expensive workshops + no goodwill/extended warranty from Volvo.
      Last edited by Voldsom Volvo; 03-21-2012 at 08:33 PM.

    16. #14
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Thanks pczeilon!

      Just like Kyle confirmed seems I have to remove a lot of things. Still not too confident about the procedure - but thanks a lot either way. I'll sleep on it

    17. #15
      Member -ForceFed-'s Avatar
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      More u remove the easier access u will have. Once the lower screw to the dash is removed u can pull it back pretty far, a helping hand may make the job a bit easier. If ur a pretty good DIY'er I won't take u out of it. I just didn't enjoy it. Would take me an hour or so hauling ass and knowing what/where/how to remove everything ahead of time.
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    18. #16
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Hi again guys,

      So I might give it a try myself. Just wondering if I need to disconnect the battery before removing the audio head unit and the SCU? I can think of any reason why, but thought I would check just in case.

    19. #17
      Member -ForceFed-'s Avatar
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      Never hurts but I never did, never did when doing work on the SRS either :P
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      Past: 14 C300 AMG Sport+ | E46M | S40 T5 | NA1 NSX | Acura TL | LS-T DC4

    20. #18
      Junior Member Voldsom Volvo's Avatar
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      Cool Finally...

      SUCCESS!!!

      First of all, I want to thank pczeilon and kyle a million times. Major credit also goes to MyNameIdeasWereTaken as I couldn't have disassembled the panels so easily without his great video guides.

      It took me a long time though. Removing the panels, console, head unit and what not to get to the SCU was simple and straightforward.

      However, the first hurdle I had was removing the center air vents. It was very difficult to remove - not at all as easy as shown in the video by MyNameIdeasWereTaken. Mine was stubbornly stuck, but finally managed to pry and yank it off after almost 10 minutes of trying.

      After removing all the stuff to access the SCU you would think the hard work was over. But it had just begun. I spent more than an hour trying to access and turn the two torx screws holding the SCU. Even when pulling the dash to make room, it was pure hell trying to remove the screws. Kyle, you were definitely right about the cramped space and the need for small ratchets. My ratchet is smaller than average but still way to bulky. It took forever to try and navigate/turn the ratchet and I even dropped the torx bit a couple time along the way. Drove me insane. Especially the screw at the upper left side of the SCU was pure nightmare. So word of advice... get the smallest ratchet you can get and with the shortest torx bit available. The space is really that cramped. And yes, as Kyle mentioned, the dash is sharp as hell - beware

      So long story short - removing the panels and other items took 20% of the time - 80% was trying to reach and (un)screw the two torx screws holding the SCU. Fcking hell. Another word of advice: the SCU is mounted via screws going through two metal clips attached to the SCU. These metal clips were not included with the new SCU I bought. So I had to re-use the old ones which are clipped on. Was a bit of a hassle to release them from the old SCU, so if possible make sure the new SCU comes with clips.

      I will not be posting a pic-by-pic guide as I don't want to go through this again But if you follow the illustrations pczeilon posted along with the dis-assembly videos made by MyNameIdeasWereTaken - you have all the steps.

      In any case, thanks again guys! I am thinking about changing the cabin air filter tomorrow - yet another PITA operation I freaking love this forum - couldn't do most of the DIY stuff without SS!
      Last edited by Voldsom Volvo; 05-21-2012 at 03:36 PM.

    21. #19
      Junior Member T5spdstr's Avatar
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      First of all thanks for this guide. My question is do I need to remove the whole dashboard of, or host the aluminum cover on the head unit CD changer and the instrument cluster...as shown in the diagrams.
      thanks

    22. #20
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by T5spdstr View Post
      First of all thanks for this guide. My question is do I need to remove the whole dashboard of, or host the aluminum cover on the head unit CD changer and the instrument cluster...as shown in the diagrams.
      thanks
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    23. #21
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      I had a strange thing happen related to this issue. The Error Key Not Found appeared and the car would not start, had it towed in for replacement. Ten months later while sitting in the car at the Dr. with key in my lap the car beeped, locked itself and confounded me? Hit the unlock on the key fob, car unlocked, put key in ignition and got Error Key not found, tried different thing with no luck. Placed key in lap, pulled out owners manual, 30 sec later car locked itself again? I unlocked it with the key fob, laid the key on the dash and after 30 sec car locked itself again this time using the key fob to unlock didn't work, pushing the door unlock, unlocked and immediately locked again not actually releasing the door lock for me to get out. Windows didn't work either since key didn't work. I was locked in, my mother who had the other key came out from the Dr. wondering why the door wasn't open, I had to tell her to try her key which strangely worked from outside the car but not in the ignition either. I thought she might have pressed the lock button inadvertantly when the keys were in her purse. I made sure we left the doors open because the car tried to lock itself again, with both keys on the dash. I was also lucky my tires were straight to make the towing easier. Since I was within the 12 months parts warranty the same part in ignition was replaced again and sofar no farther issue.

      Anyone else with this issue?

    24. #22
      Junior Member coolin's Avatar
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      my damn key/ignitioin just started to act up
      guess i'll be adding this to my list
      2006 s40 T5 sold

    25. #23
      Junior Member coolin's Avatar
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      so i found some used units from the same MY for cheap
      does it matter if its from an AUTO/ 2.4i?
      any input would be great guys
      2006 s40 T5 sold

    26. #24
      Hi there guys...

      I too just recently did this job. Here's the background:

      Last Friday, my car wouldn't start. I could turn the key, but I had NOTHING and the famous 'key error" message. After searching around on here, I did the 'tap with the hammer' trick and go the car to start. But then my key was stuck! So again, after searching, I figured my SCU was bad and ordered a replacement from TASCA. Great price, speedy service.

      So then last night I did the replacement. My key was still stuck inside, so that was a pain. I agree with Voldsom Volvo, I had a hard time taking the center vent out! Other than that, it's a pain to do, but definately doable with some patience. Took me about 3hrs and I didn't break anything and I didn't have any screws left! Haha...

      For my key that was still stuck in the ignition, when I took everything apart and was finally able to remove it with the key inside, I started prying things off and then the key just flew out. I removed the clips from the old SCU and put them on the new unit.

      One thing to note though, I had read the posts prior and saw that a SMALL ratchet would come in handy. Just so happened that one of the guys at work had ordered a small set a couple days before, so that's what I used (the arm must be like 2" long, about $15, we sell tools so we just got it from one of our vendors), I would dare say this job is impossible withouth that! I accessed one screw holding the SCU from the CD player/screen with the ratchet at the bottom, and the other one from the instrument display and the ratchet at the bottom again.

      So, yes, it's possible to do as a DIY. Just remove as much as you can, take your time and you will be fine!

      If I can help with questions, please let me know!!
      -Mitch

    27. #25
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      I just completed the replacement of the SCU in my 2005 V50. I agree with the others: you should block of a solid 1 to 2 hours of time with the majority of the time being spent working on the 2 screws securing the SCU. The youtube videos are key.

      This is my one error in the process: I was unable to secure the top screw on the SCU as I dropped the screw and cannot find it. It all other parts attached and secured, the SCU has minimal play. That said, I would like to disassemble again and attached a new screw to the top of the SCU.

      Does anyone have the specs for the 2 screws that secure the SCU? Thanks...

    28. #26
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      Hit up your closest Volvo stealer
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    29. #27
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Does anyone have the specs for the 2 screws that secure the SCU? Thanks...
      Sorry, they don't list specs.

      New Part Number 985988
      Part Name SIX POINT SOCKET SCREW
      MSRP $2.09
      Online Price $1.35
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    30. #28
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      Sorry, I'm a little late to the party. Does anyone have one of these torn apart? (and not just replaced it) I'm starting to have this exact problem on the 2005 T5 that I just assembled. I'd love to get my hands on a failed one and tear it apart to see how it ticks (before tearing into mine) If anyone has replaced theirs and kept the old one, I'm happy to pay shipping for you to send it to me and I'll see if I can figure out a zero cost fix.

      Thanks,
      Garrick

    31. #29
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      Hey guys, i ended up fixing mine. I took pics of the disassembly process and repair. there's two places where you get an intermittent connection to the release solenoid. a bit of 600 grit sandpaper and a little overbending fixed it right up. $0 fix. i'll post a pic as soon as i can locate my camera.

    32. #30
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      I feel like i'm talking to myself here, but here's a picture of the disassembled key module. There are more pics on my photobucket account. Basically, if you clean the contacts with the 600 grit i mention above, you can fix it for free. I've taken pictures of the dashboard disassembly process, and those are on my photobucket account also.



      photobucket album
      http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/gl...28550084057238

    33. #31
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      How did You get down to the back half or Lower Half ?
      That's great News - to see these are Fixable for the Handy - DIY - Guy in all of Us .

      If You do a small write up - that should be placed the Volvo Library .
      Last edited by EngTech; 03-28-2013 at 10:36 AM.
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    34. #32
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      Basically I pulled the module out, removed three screws and the thing came apart. The other side has some snap features that you can pry away and remove (to reveal the circuit board). The copper piece is kinda sandwiched between them. All you need to do is run the sandpaper (folded over so you get both sides of the contact) and re-assemble.

      The hardest part was getting that stupid thing out of the dash.

      I can confirm this does fix it; ive been driving it for a week now with zero issues. it was a problem each time, before the fix.

      I will try to do a write-up at some point. I do suffer from a lot of hand pain when typing and using a mouse, so I try to limit non-essential computer use. It is only typing and mouse use. Pulling an engine is no problem, but typing a letter downright sucks.

    35. #33

      Thank you

      Quote Originally Posted by glankford View Post
      I feel like i'm talking to myself here, but here's a picture of the disassembled key module. There are more pics on my photobucket account. Basically, if you clean the contacts with the 600 grit i mention above, you can fix it for free. I've taken pictures of the dashboard disassembly process, and those are on my photobucket account also.



      photobucket album
      http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/gl...28550084057238
      First of all I would like to thank you for the help.I was able to fix the key module and everything is fine now. Hopefully it lasts but even if it didn't I will replace it, now that I know how.

    36. #34
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      I realize this is a huge thread revival, but guess what just happened to me today. So I'll try to do a write-up on my process of ignition switch replacement as soon as I get a new one from Tasca. Btw, both auto and manual pn have been superseded by pn 30659838.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    37. #35
      Member jschinito's Avatar
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      look forward to your post. let us know if just some sand paper will fix it also -- save the cost of a replacement module if that's all that's needed.

      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      I realize this is a huge thread revival, but guess what just happened to me today. So I'll try to do a write-up on my process of ignition switch replacement as soon as I get a new one from Tasca. Btw, both auto and manual pn have been superseded by pn 30659838.
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