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I'm not super clear on what glankford's issue was, but my key operates normally except I cannot turn to position 0 and remove from dash. Outside of that, everything's normal. Considering the earlier description of the ignition switch locking mechanism, I do not believe the issue is electrical in nature. So, no amount of contact cleaning will solve this issue. My only real concern is getting the key back out of the locking mechanism in good condition.
Just to help anyone else struggling with this issue. if your key is stuck in the car but you still have to use the car (assuming the key ignition still works), then take the following steps when parking (especially over night): 1) Deep breath! 2) Locate fuse 26 in the driver's side engine compartment and pull it out with the Volvo fuse puller and place it inside the car 3) Make sure the ignition circuit is now ka-put 4) Pull the valet key from the key fob 5) lock the doors with the key fob 6) shut the hood and doors. 7) walk away knowing that your car is sorta secured. 8) when you open the door the alarm will sound 9) hit the unlock function from the key fob. 10) reinstall fuse 26 11) start car.
If you don't pull the fuse or disconnect the battery, you will drain your battery overnight.
I too am having this issue. I am very glad that I found this thread. I have an 05 S40 T5 Manual also, and I plan to order the 30659838. Let's see how this goes.
I expect to install this weekend, hopefully sooner. I'll try to take pics of the process and do a decent write-up.
Since my key was working but couldn't be removed from the ignition/SCU, I had to remove it as an unit if I had any hope for saving the key (assuming you can). If this is the case for you, just get ready to pony-up and buy a new key. There's no way (without cutting into the dash) that you can get both the SCU and the key out together.
I struggled for a few hours to find a way to get that thing out in one piece - I'm convinced it's not possible. I moved the wiring, I cut the SCU with a dremmel, I cut a bit on the plastic support, and at best I got it 1/2 way out. So I gave up and snapped the key off in the SCU and took it out. Even with the dash out a bit and a little surgical cutting, it was a pain to get out. No joke, you must have a micro rachet to do this job. But, the up side is that the SCU is a very doable job - as long as your key isn't stuck in the ignition.
Well, finally got the car back from the Dealer with 2 new keys, thank God. Interesting note: the new/upgraded SCO unit has a slightly different feel to it vs. the old. Each position is very precise (expected), but going from Position II to Position III now has very light resistance as compared to the previous unit (unexpected). I almost thought it was broken at first, but apparently that's just how it is.
Mercdude, so you're saying that if I only have one key for my car, I may want to get a new key first before replacing the SCU? My key is stuck in the ignition, car works fine. I was hoping I could take the whole unit out and then disassemble it to free my key.
Apparently, my S40 is having all the common problems go wrong in a matter of weeks. First the oil filter housing, then the PEM, now the ignition switch. Every time I fix something, a day later, something new goes wrong. It only has 80k miles, I regret buying this car.
yeah, thats exactly the situation I had and the exact same strategy I had. Well, I didn't find a way to get it out of the dash, so my conclusion is that you can't remove the key and ignition as a unit. So this may be a situation that you'll come out ahead if you let the dealer do the work - if they break the key, then they can replace.
How much did your dealership charge you for everything, if I may ask?
I got the key out! It took a lot of wiggling, but it happened! It's not going back in until I replace the SCU.
Wow congrats for the time being. Mine wasn't going anywhere, so not a wiggling option for me.
The dealer charged me $275 for 2 new keys and programming; the new SCO cost me $200 from tasca; and I did all the work. So if dealer was to do the work, probably another 2-300 bucks. But, if the dealer can save the key while installing the SCO, then it's probably a wash on overall costs.
In your case, I would buy a new SCO from tasca asap and then plan on a 3-4hr session of work. Take your time and work the pieces off. No need to take out the center vents fyi. And, you must get a micro rachet. I got a decent one off amazon for like $15.
I replaced everything last night. Didn't use a microrachet, but went in without incident (aside from dropping one T-25 torx bit into the abyss) only took about an hour and half. I still should probably invest in a second key, just in case, but all these repairs I've had to do over the past few weeks have tapped me out financially.
So, since March, my 80k mile S40 T5 has had the oil filter housing clog, the PEM go, and the SCU go. What else can I expect will break in the next few days?
maybe lca's or struts
just thought I would give some input on this matter. We have been dealing with a client's S40 MY2006 and stuck key for the last week. Have tried all previously mentioned hints and tricks to no avail. The SCU's el. magnetic switch worked well so there was no need to replace the SCU. After hours and hours of diagnosing what the culprit is, we found out that there was a bad contact between the red/green wire (from SCU) to CEM board. Once we wiggled the CEM the key came out. The wire is connected through the blue 16pin connector on top left of the board. With very little room and short cables this was not the most pleasant job, but we squeezed the female pin on the wire to make better contact. Seems to work well now.
Did you try replacing the SCU to no avail? Or did you end up tracking down wiring because you couldn't get it out?
OK , My Experience with this stuff , Last Spring I was all Bummed out as I had everything ready for the Spring Runs & Coffee Meets ..
Went in House as I thought all Good after Topping Off Battery and a Short Test Drive . Came Out the Next Morning to start V50 Knight and Key Froze as I tried to start .
Battery seemed Dead Key wouldn't come out or Go all the way Off , Dam I just Topped Off this Battery 3 Yrs. Old What the Hay ..
I had Major Home Issues to Deal with and Costly , so I slammed the Door - Bitched all the way into the House and Most of the Day was in Bad Mood ..Fumed at Volvo .
I just Dropped New Battery In today , I bought it this Past Week , but didn't get around to Pulling the Old One Out , Cleaning everything and Painting the Box Strap. etc.
I Had to get the Volvo Down Off the High Blocks - Once I Greased and Put the Wheels on ( This was done already ) , so I began the 3 step Jack Down Procedure .
In Order to get Off those High Blocks , First One has to Go Up . .
then Down in Steps @ all 4 Corners , but only 1 Step at a Time - as to Not Over Load 1 Corner and have a Stack of Blocks Slide ( Especially in the Rear )
Front LCA's are pretty wide and Flat Area so not much to worry about there ( Being Safe )
OK Finally go the all 4 Corns down - with the Help of the Ramps at the Back End . ( Subbing for a Stable Platform ) . .
Got the Tow Key Out and Opened the Bumper to be Towed Off to Volvo .. as I just Dreaded the Idea of getting Cut Up & Pulling Half My Dash .
Not to Mention all the Stories about the Re-Programing Charges ..
Like Here I Go $750.$800 Bucks , I'll save the $275-$300 Do the Battery Myself .. ( I don't have the Software ) etc.
It Must Be My V50 AWD just Wanted to Go and Be Driven , I Popped the Key and Waited a Tense 30 Seconds , I Heard this Dreaded _ Drum Click , Drum Click , I Heard the Fuel Pump
Prime Up , The Running Lights all came on , Dash Lite , ____________Turned the Key _____ Cranked 12-15 Seconds . . Dam - Fired Right Up & Smooth as Silk . .
Most Be from Taking Care of this V50 - I got Rewarded . . after a Good Long Warm Up & some Putting around . . I did a 1600-1700 Rpm Pull Away 3/4 Throttle . .
Shifting at the Driveway .
Digging & Going - Gone !
Another year, another stuck key. This happened to me when I was an hour away from home. I pulled to a stop, put it in Park, and turned off the ignition. Except that the key wouldn't come out and the various accessories that stay on when the key is in position 0 were active. I tried restarting & running through the gears, but it still wouldn't give me back my key after I stopped it. I turned off all accessible electrical drains & finished my chores, and drove home.
At home, I disconnected the battery, manually locked all doors from the inside & used the blade key to lock the driver's door.
Today I pulled the SCU+key fob thanks to the discussion here. The upper screw of the SCU is slightly accessible if a 1/2" deep gouge is taken in the dash molding (It will be covered by the DIM facia). The lower screw is slightly accessible once the CD player is out. The entire thing drops down if the two nearby screws holding the dash itself are removed and that portion of the dash is bent well out to clear the key.
I found - that the SCU was fine. It was the "transmission in park" solenoid that wasn't disengaging. I'm not sure how to track that down; my first response is to remove the solenoid from the back cover of the SCU. It slides out after the circular nylon lock is unhooked. I haven't tried replacing the SCU yet - that's tomorrow's job. If the ECU is too smart, it will not work, then I'll have to follow Honza's lead and check the "transmission in park" signal line from the ECU.
Looking at the wiring diagram on page 40, it looks like a jumper, + to #7 and - to #8, will draw in the locking pin on the solenoid.
"New-to-me" V50 Back from the dead.
For what it's worth, you can remove the lock-out part of the SCU so that it is unable to "hold" the key when an error occurs or the vehicle doesn't meet "parking" requirements.
If the car has an error that prevents the key from being removed, removing the key shouldn't cause any further problems than it was already facing.
When the CEM was dying on my V50, it would occasionally hold the key. This would result in a dead battery after being parked for a few hours. After modifying the SCU, I could always shut off the car and get my key out. Ideally, you should address the original fault as soon as possible, but being able to remove your key can usually buy you the time to conclude your day and get the car back home, because these types of problems always occur and the most inconvenient times and places.
MNIWT! You're still here!
Amen! to the "inconvenient times and places"!
Yes, the key removal solenoid slips out after the nylon lock ring has been unclipped from the mechanical side of the SCU. Its function is to require that the transmission is in "Park" before the key may be removed. There is another mechanism that retains the key in the I and II positions.
I replaced the SCU in the car, this time with a jumper out from pin #8 so I can ground the solenoid & release the key if this happens again. I haven't tested it. Even If it doesn't work, jumping +12V to #7 and -12V to #8 will release the key without pulling the SCU from the dash again.
I think the actual problem was the mechanical Park release catch on the shift lever. I broke the shift knob while replacing that magnetic shift slider that breaks, and it rotatates on the shift lever now. I guess that's the next thing to fix...
"New-to-me" V50 Back from the dead.