'74 142 update.

[Phil Singher]

If the horns make some noise and the connections are tight, I would say it's the horns themselves that are at fault. I've heard of people spraying them out with WD-40 to get them to work again, but haven't tried that myself.

Amp light is probably a failed rectifier in the alternator.

Remove the switch for the brake warning light from the junction block where all the hard lines meet, and screw it back in. It will trip anytime you bleed the brakes, and that's how to reset it.

Looking good...

[lotsofmagnets]

hey, just joined sweedspeed to respond here why is the speedo in km/h? also, that´s a dash from a 245 (the speedo reads r5,85 and should read r6,40 for a 140) so that could have something to do with the alt light being if the wiring is in any way different.

[pistorman]

I think everything worked the same. Actually the alternator is bad and I had to order a replacement. Its not charging at all, I guess that's what set off the AMP light. We charge the battery and we can drive it a bit, but after a while the battery wears down and runs rough. I'm getting a replacement on Wednesday.

As to the cluster, I bought it on eBay from a Canadian seller, the original one on my car somehow leaked this weird honey like substance and was stuck, maybe the prior owner tried to do something with it but ruined it.

This cluster, Canadian one, has a tachometer that I have not connected. I'm not how to do it, though I know one end connects to the coil. I'm not phased by it reading KMH, I lived in and out of the U.S. and I think only the U.S. still measures car speed in MPH.

I'm being offered a W1,03 gauge cluster but I don't know if it will work. What do you think?

This is the cluster I'm offered, I'd really like the tachometer to work:

[pistorman]

More Volvomania photos!

[lotsofmagnets]

just quickly, the cluster you´re being offered is from a 73 model which has a different fuel gauge and no lights for bulb blown and egr (below the brake warning lights.) and the tacho is from a 240 (the 140s had a white line between the orange and red zones. other than that the speedo and temp gauge are correct. i would think that if you cannot get a proper 74 model dash (green lines around everything with lights for bulb blown and egr, small red one for fuel like later 240s but with white dividing lines) the best is to put the mph speedo into the canadian dash you have and it should be close enough although the frame around the edge is slightly different between 140s and 240s.

[lotsofmagnets]

but have to also point out that i love the color and the interior pattern

[pistorman]

just quickly, the cluster you´re being offered is from a 73 model which has a different fuel gauge and no lights for bulb blown and egr (below the brake warning lights.) and the tacho is from a 240 (the 140s had a white line between the orange and red zones. other than that the speedo and temp gauge are correct. i would think that if you cannot get a proper 74 model dash (green lines around everything with lights for bulb blown and egr, small red one for fuel like later 240s but with white dividing lines) the best is to put the mph speedo into the canadian dash you have and it should be close enough although the frame around the edge is slightly different between 140s and 240s.

Thank you very much for your help. I am guessing the one I have now is from an early 242. Though, save for the tachometer, everything else worked in with no problems. This may explain why the brake failure light doesn't turn off (?) We did a full brake job, new rotors, pads, etc, full bleed through and I took the connector off the brake sensor switch in the engine bay and nothing, light still goes off.

My 1974 has the K-Jet mechanical fuel injection from Bosch. All complete and serviced. I did install stainless header exhaust manifold from IPDUSA, so I'm not sure how it reads the egr to trigger a fault light, but I have yet to learn from this car. My other classic cars aren't this new.

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to try the Swedish 140 club to see if a correct gauge cluster is available.

[t5mmmm]

This may explain why the brake failure light doesn't turn off (?) We did a full brake job, new rotors, pads, etc, full bleed through and I took the connector off the brake sensor switch in the engine bay and nothing, light still goes off.

If you did not unplug the brake sensor switch before you bled the system, you probably broke the white plastic plunger inside the switch, which is why your brake light is on.

[pistorman]

Alternator is not working, ordered a replacement one from Autozone, it was supposed to fit in for an a/c application. It does not. I'm trying to find an alternator rebuild shop in Dallas, TX. To my surprise, these shops have disappeared. Anyone know of any?

[gdill2]

Alternator is not working, ordered a replacement one from Autozone, it was supposed to fit in for an a/c application. It does not. I'm trying to find an alternator rebuild shop in Dallas, TX. To my surprise, these shops have disappeared. Anyone know of any?

Share any stamped data (brand, rating, etc.) on the existing alternator ONLY if it fits on the ac B20 ok.

Is the existing alternator REGULATOR inside the alternator or outside?

When you say "...Alternator is not working..." how did you confirm this?

Has the existing battery ever been drained fully?

Dallas-area alternator shops just slap on a rebuilt unit then sell the old cores to the guy what comes around from China.

We can find you - WHOA! - Dallas - your profile shows Hous...

Never mind.

Start calling these numbers...

http://tinyurl.com/o2fyu4k

...until some human what understands your situation offers a fix.

George Dill

ps: rebuild parts for some older alternators are often NLA!

[pistorman]

Hi George,

I have my paint and body guys in Dallas, I trust them and they do very good work, I live in The Woodlands, TX.

The alternator has the regulator outside. It appears to be an SEB brand but the stampings are next to impossible to read.

The alternator was not charging the battery. We would recharge the battery and when the car is running we disconnect it and it dies immediately.

I took it to All Import Auto Parts by Webb Chappel and Forest. Hopefully it will be repaired soon.

[gdill2]

Hi George,

I have my paint and body guys in Dallas, I trust them and they do very good work, I live in The Woodlands, TX.

The alternator has the regulator outside. It appears to be an SEB brand but the stampings are next to impossible to read.

The alternator was not charging the battery. We would recharge the battery and when the car is running we disconnect it and it dies immediately.

I took it to All Import Auto Parts by Webb Chappel and Forest. Hopefully it will be repaired soon.

If the alternator regulator is not in the shop with the old alternator but still on the car it (the regulator) needs to be confirmed as good.

George Dill

[pistorman]

The regulator is still in the car, allegedly its a shop that can test it without it. Hope its true.

[pistorman]

And from the picture above I can surmise that the alternator is an SEV Marchal brand of alternator/regulator.

[gdill2]

The regulator is still in the car, allegedly its a shop that can test it without it. Hope its true.

Yes, the shop can test the alternator while the regulator is elsewhere BUT it is the REGULATOR that needs testing.

George Dill

[John2x240]

just quickly, the cluster you´re being offered is from a 73 model which has a different fuel gauge and no lights for bulb blown and egr (below the brake warning lights.) and the tacho is from a 240 (the 140s had a white line between the orange and red zones. other than that the speedo and temp gauge are correct. i would think that if you cannot get a proper 74 model dash (green lines around everything with lights for bulb blown and egr, small red one for fuel like later 240s but with white dividing lines) the best is to put the mph speedo into the canadian dash you have and it should be close enough although the frame around the edge is slightly different between 140s and 240s.

I don't know if this would help, and I may be wrong as it was a long time ago, but had several 140s from '72s up to a '74 and I don't remember a metric speedo in any of 'em, not even one with with metric and miles. I haven't had any early 240s, but they may have had a metric or both speedo.

I guess I should have mentioned that I'm in Canada.

[pistorman]

I don't know if this would help, and I may be wrong as it was a long time ago, but had several 140s from '72s up to a '74 and I don't remember a metric speedo in any of 'em, not even one with with metric and miles. I haven't had any early 240s, but they may have had a metric or both speedo.

I guess I should have mentioned that I'm in Canada.

I believe this is from a 240 series not a 140 series. This could explain why.

[pistorman]

Yes, the shop can test the alternator while the regulator is elsewhere BUT it is the REGULATOR that needs testing.

George Dill

Yes George, the rebuilder asked for the regulator its on its way. Thanks. If its bad though, I can't seem to find many replacements. They are offering a HUCO model, but I don't know if its the same or if a general adjustable one will work.

The Bosch K Jet has a few hiccups, the wires that connect to the air flow/mass sensor somehow slacked and rested on the stainless steel exhaust manifold and were burned, thus it runs erratically. I am getting that repaired along with the power steering hoses that leak like crazy.

Here's a few more pictures.

[gdill2]

Do you have all the K-Jet pdfs downloaded and saved?

George Dill

[pistorman]

Yes I think you sent me the links earlier in my resto. I also bought a bosh K-Jetronic manual. A lot of people say that I should just go ahead and do a weber conversion, the problem is the head, gas tank and fuel delivery system is fitted for fuel injection. I guess ports can be tapped and all, but I really want to give this K-Jet a chance.

Removing all power steering hoses to take them to ADCO here in Houston to get new ones.

[pistorman]

I find this site so helpful! http://www.k-jet.org/ I'm thinking of getting a new fuel injection relay.

[gdill2]

Yes I think you sent me the links earlier in my resto. I also bought a bosh K-Jetronic manual. A lot of people say that I should just go ahead and do a weber conversion, the problem is the head, gas tank and fuel delivery system is fitted for fuel injection. I guess ports can be tapped and all, but I really want to give this K-Jet a chance.

Removing all power steering hoses to take them to ADCO here in Houston to get new ones.

As Phil Singher would say..."K-Jet is not rocket science".

A quick aside about technology...

35 years back you could get an 8' diameter satellite (TV) antenna installed in your back yard for about $8,500. Today you can visit any electronics store and buy a tiny chip for $8.50 that does everything and more than the 8-footer.

K-Jet - most problems are vacuum-related but if the engine has non-FI problems those should be remedied before spending huge dollars on replacement parts for K-Jet FI.

George Dill

[pistorman]

As Phil Singher would say..."K-Jet is not rocket science".

A quick aside about technology...

35 years back you could get an 8' diameter satellite (TV) antenna installed in your back yard for about $8,500. Today you can visit any electronics store and buy a tiny chip for $8.50 that does everything and more than the 8-footer.

K-Jet - most problems are vacuum-related but if the engine has non-FI problems those should be remedied before spending huge dollars on replacement parts for K-Jet FI.

George Dill

Haha. Its not rocket science but it still is a pain! The first 200 miles the engine was running fine. Now it sputters, backfires and pings. It'll revs up ok if I accelerate until a sizable backfire will frustrate enough to kill the engine.

I'm going through all the fault checks in the book. So far the distributor and rotor are clean. I changed one of the fuel pump relays and no change. In one write up it says that the fuel injection (maybe the fuel pump) has a 25 AMP fuse near the battery. I can't find that fuse anywhere.

I disconnected the warm up valve and it still back fires.

I really want to keep the K Jetronic working but its frustrating enough to order the Weber conversion kit. I know I have to plug the injector ports and install the mechanical fuel pump (can you install it on the B20F? anyway.) But before I do that I want to give the K Jet a good chance. I wonder if the power steering fluid that leaked messed with some enough to change the timing on the engine. Maybe some fuel starvation due to a faulty pump (its new but not Bosch), maybe I should install a new fuel filter (this one doesn't have more than 300 miles on it...) Any ideas are welcome.

[gdill2]

Does this apply to your FI?...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...lt_tracing.pdf

George Dill

[pistorman]

Thanks George, this seems more for the D Jet, not the K Jet which is mechanical. But some points are valid. I'm also going with the green manual. I'm going to check the wiring and the fuel delivery first. I'm guessing it could had been something related to the alternator rebuild. The SEV Marchal alternator is being rebuilt in Dallas. I had another one that was sold as a substitute installed so I could bring the car home to The Woodlands. Maybe, (but I fail to see how), something went awry with the fuel pump and other circuitry. All relays and fuses seem ok.

[John2x240]

My '74 142 had K-jet. Now it's been almost three decades, but I seem to remember that the mechanical parts in the air intake valve and fuel distributor need periodical adjustments and sometimes replacement of worn parts. I may still have an old Haynes book for 140s, so when I have time I'll try to find it and see what they say.

[swiftjustice44]

I presume you are trying to keep the car all original and that is why you're having trouble with an alternator? I had so many issues with my 73 (also an SEV Marchal/Motorola alternator as is yours) that I ended up using a 100 amp alternator from a 91 740 turbo. Also converted backwards from D Jet to dual SU's...was quite simple.

[pistorman]

I presume you are trying to keep the car all original and that is why you're having trouble with an alternator? I had so many issues with my 73 (also an SEV Marchal/Motorola alternator as is yours) that I ended up using a 100 amp alternator from a 91 740 turbo. Also converted backwards from D Jet to dual SU's...was quite simple.

Did you have to change the holding bracket? Any changes to the electrical circuits? Different battery? Same instrument cluster regulator?

Thanks!

[gdill2]

Did you have to change the holding bracket? Any changes to the electrical circuits? Different battery? Same instrument cluster regulator?

Thanks!

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...or-into-my-144

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...or-for-B18-B20

George Dill

[pistorman]

I worked around the car this weekend. I think it is a failing fuel pressure/warm up regulator. I already had the fuel distributor sent for a rebuild prior to the car's restoration. The problem can also be ignition linked, maybe timing, as it appears to backfire. There is a kind of what i would define a propeller-like sound, and a pinging sound. the car revs up fine, which doesn't make me conclude that there is something wrong with the valves.

Below are some videos of it running.





What do you guys think?

[John2x240]

It sounds kiinda noisy; was it always like that? It might be time to get out your mechanic's stethoscope and track down the noises.

[pistorman]

It never made a lot of noise when the engine had the original exhaust manifold, it now has the stainless steel IPD header exhaust manifold. The problem is that when the car warms up eventually it will backfire and die.

[pistorman]

That pinging sound however, wasn't there.

[pistorman]

This weekend I found out the culprit of that pinging noise. No sparkknock, no timing problems... sadly worse. Worn out camshaft due to poor oiling. Rear lifter was basically without any movement thus no spark in that cylinder. It could had been worse, like in affecting the pistons and the head.

New camshaft from IPD. So engine is out in pieces, going ahead with a rebuild however pistons were unaffected and it does not seem that the head needs any boring. New rings, bearings, etc. are coming.

My engine is original B20F from 1974, but it has a prior head for the D-Jet. Rebuilt. It supposed to have higher compression. I can't think that the head has anything to do with poor oiling. All ports seem to mate. No fitment issues with gasket.

[gdill2]

Good show - list the new parts you plan to install and your sources.

Have you inspected the valve mechanisms?

Thanks.

George Dill