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    Thread: '74 142 update.

    1. #106
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      Alright, so the culprit in my engines issues turned out to be a worn out oil pump. There was almost no oiling to the head nor to the lifters and camshaft. Amazingly nothing happened to the cylinders nor the head itself. What did happen is that one of the lifters ground one of the camshaft lobes and the lifter stop opening the valve. That's the reason of the misfire.



      To solve this, I decided to do a full rebuild. My mechanic took the engine out and we found that obviously the camshaft bearings had been honed by the camshaft so those have to be changed as well.







      Obviously we checked the pistons for problems and found none. Being out I am having new rings installed, along with main bearings and rod bearings.



      I could not find standard size piston rings for the B20 anywhere in the usual places, IPD, Swedish Treasures, etc. But I found them in an online outlet called Redlinemotive.com so I ordered this kit and its on its way: 1974 Volvo 140 Goetze Piston Ring Set (GOE-A2050-77648) They were not cheap at $132 for four.



      I bought standard size camshaft bearings, rod bearings and main bearings, along with a full gasket kit, and an HD oil pump from IPD. The oil pump is backordered which is holding up the order thus the rebuild. But it should be sent by 7/10 I hope.

      I also took advantage of having the engine out to properly repaint the engine bay (what parts that were not able to be painted in the first go).

      I am also having what gaskets can be changed while the engine is out from the BW35 transmission as it leaks even after rebuilding. Though I am hopeful that I can get all of my conversion to manual parts very very soon. The BW35 was rebuilt and works fine. I expect to sell it and get something out of it for another lucky Volvo owner out there.

      I bought the IPD D Grind cam kit altogether with lifters and push rods. I had installed a rebuilt D-Jet head in my car (which came with a K-Jet), for higher compression. I wanted the full kit with camshaft bearings, but IPD is out of camshaft bearings so I bought those bearings from Swedish Treasures.

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    3. #107
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      Realize that you are promoting the Classic Volvo Community in a big positive way to include nurturing the reliable parts and service providers.

      List any parts you have yet to locate if any.

      Did you ever solve the poblem with the leaking power steering hose(s)?

      Also, when the B20 was running you posted about FI problems. Will the rebuild take care of this?

      ? Status of timing gears, water pump, thermostat, etc.?

      Below are some links you may already have downloaded/saved but just in case.

      George Dill

      http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen..._B20A_B20B.pdf

      http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...anual/bw35.pdf

      http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...lt_tracing.pdf

      http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...cial_tools.pdf

    4. #108
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      I had the water pump changed before brand new from IPD.

      I was able to find an outfit in Dallas where the hose was repaired. At the beginning they told me that they did carry those fittings (so I thought o well same story, won't work out)... but... they told me that they solve the problem by cutting the current fitting and welding it to a hydraulic adapter where a hydraulic pressure hose can be attached. My hose was repaired for 80 bucks at GT Southwest Hose in Dallas, TX. Mockinbird store.

      I had though the problems where with the FI and timing before the mechanic removed the valve cover and said, nope, that misfire is not from a lack of gas. You can see unburnt gasoline coming out the exhaust. Its the valve that's not opening therefore there is no air mixture and no explosion. Seems everything in my F.I. setup is fine for now. So I won't be changing to a weber carb anytime soon.

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    6. #109
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      Here's some more pictures.

      Somethings I forgot to add is that I am also changing all of the mounts. All bought in IPD.

      You can see the inside of the engine. Quite basic, yet well cast. Porting seems to be smartly designed and, other than changes in the head nowadays, I can't see much difference with today's engines.

      In the pictures below you can see just how clogged up the oil pump was.















      A very clean engine bay ready to be repainted in the areas it wasn't done before.


    7. #110
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      Do you plan to retain the aftermarket ignition system?

      George Dill

      http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/pi...%20Volvo%20142

    8. #111
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      If you mean the Delta Mark Ten B capacitive ignition system box that came with the car, it was uninstalled when I first bought the car. It was just there in the engine bay. I've read a little about how it was great in the '70s but I'm not sure it still works. I took it off and kept it. I don't have instructions to re install. What I did do in ignition is buy and install a new Bosch coil from IPD and the Pertronix pointless electronic ignition adapter that they sell for my model. I have added the Pertronix to some of my other cars and I'm glad I did. Have you had any experience with the Delta Mark Ten Bs?

      In other things I had already done, I installed the front and rear IPD sway bars. I have also ordered new bushings for the upper and lower parts of the control arm as mine are worn out.

    9. #112
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      (Don't you hate it when you write a big follow up on your car's restoration process and the token expires and it won't post and it will erase everything you did?) Anyway...

      Engine rebuilding went great. As you may recall a poor oiling "issue" led to a camshaft lobe to be grounded straight.



      Mechanic says that it was actually that the head had valves that were strengthened along with double springs, and that the stock B20F lifters weren't powerful enough, but the truth is that he just did not change the oil and filter before, his assistant confessed that happened. The oil sludge made the oil pump work poorly and oil didn't arrive to the last lobe and thank the superior being that it wasn't any worse. As you can see the engine did not need boring, and only piston rings were changed.








    10. #113
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      I have been quiet a while here because I was crossing my fingers for a bunch of things to happen in my project. First to get the oh ever so unobtanium correct manual transmission pedals for the 1973/1974 140 series. A nice guy from the 140 Klubben in Sweden was kind enough to send them to me cost free. The other was then to decide where to get the M41 from. Most were from either 1800 or 122, with different tops and many fitment issues. No correct overdrive switch was in sight and I was about to abandon the conversion project until a Volvo great from Northern Colorado came through. Basically, he let me have a 1974 Volvo 142 with the original M41 setup for a fair price, a true Swedish built car not Belgium or Luxembourg. Someone had already taken the pedal assembly, but not the rest, so the car was shipped to Dallas from a mountainous place. The car did not have the automatic transmission rein-stalled, I just went ahead and awaited the M41. The transmission came back in great shape. I had the gaskets changed, along with the fork boot and spring, also a new clutch cable, new clutch disc, throwout bearing and pressure plate. Very few issues here and there but the conversion has been going ahead as scheduled. Everything from the clutch to the rear end has been swapped over. So far so good.

      The donor car in its "habitat".





      Donor car is a runner. It had been used the last years up in a ranch in the mountains of Colorado. Previous owner drove it in dirt roads and in case the hand brake cable came dislodged. Owner would park the car in gear within his property and it wasn't a problem. Eventually someone other than the owner (maybe the spouse) thought it would be OK to take it to town for a quick run, and thought she had parked it with the hand brake. Hand rolled and stopped against a tree. A spare grill is available in the trunk and I have my original one in better condition at home should I consider restoring this blue one.



      Look at the rare gem this is, with the stock overdrive switch specific to the 1973/1974 models.



      Also, the correct gauge cluster with the correct tachometer!


    11. #114
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      I have had my shop guys working hard to get this done quick yet right.

      This is how the donor made it to Dallas.



      This is the donor's body plate:



      Transmission (and engine) were pulled off the donor and the rebuild and conversion began.











      New clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and all were installed.


    12. #115
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      The innards of the transmission were fully drained, cleaned, gaskets and seals changed, and new fluid was added. Both engine and transmission parts were repainted.

      It is the correct J type overdrive. Wiring to this overdrive is carefully being brought over from the donor to this restored car.








      Finally they were bolted together and are ready to be set in the car again.





      Pedal assembly was fitted for adjustments before its repainted and new pads are fitted.



      Work continues! We are waiting for the radiator to come from the radiator shop. Few things else to bring over from the donor. Gauge cluster, begin rewiring engine and overdrive. I'll keep you posted!

    13. #116
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      First Class work, Victor - good show!

      This Classic Volvo has come a long way since you first posted a Wanted ad for an emblem lost in a car wash - ever get one?

      BTW, if you plan a long post first type it in a word program then copy/paste into your SS reply.

      George Dill

    14. #117
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      Quote Originally Posted by gdill2 View Post
      First Class work, Victor - good show!

      This Classic Volvo has come a long way since you first posted a Wanted ad for an emblem lost in a car wash - ever get one?

      BTW, if you plan a long post first type it in a word program then copy/paste into your SS reply.

      George Dill
      So true George, its been quite the ride!

      I did get the emblems and all. I can't think of stuff I need for my car, basically the donor came quite complete. Turns out the donor is quite repairable and could see another life using my BW35. I would not do such a full restoration though. I honestly have no need for two 142. (I guess no one has a need for maybe more than one classic car and that's pushing it.) But the guys in Sweden have asked that I do help them out in their restorations. They say things like the booster and all are in so much better condition here than what they find over there. So, if I'm not going to do it... and no one is willing to, why not let these guys live out their restoration projetcs correctly just as I did. We'll see. I left the shop and the engine is in, they are just going over cross member fitment-it has the correct one, it was just cleaned up and painted, speedo cable, o/d wiring, and so on.

    15. #118
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      Engine is back in. Just going through some reconnection-conversion issues. In the automatic, the transmission has a neutral/parking switch on the starter switch. If the car is in Drive/Reverse or in the lower gears, the starter won't get any power. In the manual, the starter always works regardless of what gear the car is in. I'm having issues bridging my car's original automatic-designed switch so that it disregards the now inexistent parking/neutral sensor switch.



      On the other hand, the M41 transmission has basically one more connector, and the green manual kind of gives you the circuit design, but no actual pictures. I think in the picture below, that 1. is the lockout-4th gear sensor- switch that allows the overdrive to come on only when on 4th gear. The switch connects to the overdrive lever switch on the dash which also connects to a lead from the fuse box. 2. should be the reverse light switch, and 3 is the connection to the overdrive solenoid, and one connects to the overdrive itself as ground.



      On the 1. switch, it has three pegs. I am guessing one connects to the lever switch and the other to the solenoid. What would the third one be for?

    16. #119
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      Here is the OD wiring for your M41/OD conversion...

      http://www.sw-em.com/OD_Retrofitting.htm

      Now I must find the original wiring diagram for the 5-terminal starter inhibitor switch that was screwed into the body of the BW T-35 auto trans formerly in your '74 142.

      George Dill

    17. #120
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    18. #121
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      George you just gave a trove of very worthy information! Thank you very much!!

    19. #122
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      as i posted in your other thread i have a '74 144 with manual/overdrive. if you need pictures i can see if i can get something better than these or track down where the wires lead to.

      [IMG][/IMG]
      [IMG][/IMG]
      [IMG]
      [/IMG]

      john

    20. #123
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      Quote Originally Posted by nnn4865 View Post
      as i posted in your other thread i have a '74 144 with manual/overdrive. if you need pictures i can see if i can get something better than these or track down where the wires lead to.


      john
      Hey John, you have a really really nice car. You probably already know this, but very very few of the 140s, especially the 1974 model like ours, came out with the manual M41 (manual with overdrive). Thank you for the pictures, I guess the hardest one to take is the one I need. If you don't mind, I need a picture of where that red lead wire connects from the solenoid onto which peg of the 4th gear sensor in the transmission. Its probably hard to take, the thing is, that sensor has three pegs, although I think it only uses two, the one that comes from the lever switch in the steering housing, and the one that goes to the solenoid, I haven't figured that one out.

      Thanks again!

    21. #124
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      [IMG][/IMG]

      there were two wires going to the forward terminal. the red wire from the solenoid connected to post towards the engine and a yellow wire (inside a black sleeve) from the engine compartment connected to the post toward the rear of the car. front of car is to the right on the photo

      hope that helps

      john
      Last edited by nnn4865; 08-25-2013 at 10:04 PM.

    22. #125
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      Quote Originally Posted by nnn4865 View Post

      there were two wires going to the forward terminal. the red wire from the solenoid connected to post towards the engine and a yellow wire (inside a black sleeve) from the engine compartment connected to the post toward the rear of the car. front of car is to the right on the photo

      hope that helps

      john

      Thanks a bunch, its exactly the setup I have. I think my 4th gear switch or my solenoid is not working properly. I'll try to jump the 4th gear switch, I really hope that that is the faulty one. Solenoid is tough to get but still available. OD rebuild is a pain, but overall the car is running fine.

    23. #126
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      I took the car out for some test rides, one's subconscious makes you think that a 39 year old car should drive the same as a new car today. It doesn't, yet once you understand how to do it right, its a pure joy!

      I definitely don't like the sound the headers deliver with the not great muffler I had installed. It sounds excessively revved up and its too loud, I also want to add a catalytic converter, what would some of you recommend as to nice tuned sound?








    24. #127
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      did you get the overdrive working? i was looking at your pictures of the transmission and noticed that the prongs on your front terminal are pointed towards the passenger side. i'm pretty sure they are pointing towards the drivers side on mine, don't know if that makes a difference. the overdrive is definitely nice to have on the highway. my rear axel is 4:10 and i'm running at about 3000rpm at 65mph. the previous owner gave me a complete rearend out of a 164 that he said was 3:73. i don't know if my engine would handle that ratio but it would be nice to get 75mph out of 3000rpm.

      envy the a/c and trailer hitch.

      john
      Last edited by nnn4865; 08-26-2013 at 08:10 PM.

    25. #128
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      Quote Originally Posted by nnn4865 View Post
      did you get the overdrive working? i was looking at your pictures of the transmission and noticed that the prongs on your front terminal are pointed towards the passenger side. i'm pretty sure they are pointing towards the drivers side on mine, don't know if that makes a difference. the overdrive is definitely nice to have on the highway. my rear axel is 4:10 and i'm running at about 3000rpm at 65mph. the previous owner gave me a complete rearend out of a 164 that he said was 3:73. i don't know if my engine would handle that ratio but it would be nice to get 75mph out of 3000rpm.

      envy the a/c and trailer hitch.

      john
      I think I found that the wire that feeds from the 4th gear sensor/lockout switch is loose and unhooked in the front. I am hoping this is all the problem with the o/d. I filled it with 30w oil as per many recommendations here and in the other board.

      I bought the hitch of amazon or ebay, can't recall which, it said it was the correct one for this model and it installed very well. I want it for my bike rack, but you can pull some of the smaller utility trailers, ATV trailers, etc.

      Someone from the Swedish board asked for the a/c setup in the blue parts car, however, if he doesn't pull the trigger I'll let you know. Cost is what I have to pay mechanic to retrieve the parts inside the cabin and shipping. There is no condenser (I guess it was crushed in the front tree parking collision). The compressor has its brackets, etc.

    26. #129
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      Quote Originally Posted by pistorman View Post
      I took the car out for some test rides, one's subconscious makes you think that a 39 year old car should drive the same as a new car today. It doesn't, yet once you understand how to do it right, its a pure joy!

      I definitely don't like the sound the headers deliver with the not great muffler I had installed. It sounds excessively revved up and its too loud, I also want to add a catalytic converter, what would some of you recommend as to nice tuned sound?
      Funny: I am often amazed at how modern my 72 142E feels whenever I take it out ...

      You definitely do NOT want to add a catalytic converter to this car for a variety of reasons (it did not come with one, for starters ...). I see that you have a straight pipe out the rear, which leads me to believe that the system on the car is custom, and may be lacking the resonator. Muffler and resonator placement and pipe bends are all part of the tonal picture when it comes to exhausts. Have a look at the Simmons systems offered by SKANDIX: I have their 2.5" system on the 142 and am very happy with it. I had plans to install a 2" NOS Supersprint system (which looks really cool with its dual baloney-tip ends), but I think I'm going to stick with this freer-flowing, raspy setup.
      ---------------------
      1998 V70 T5M
      1972 142E

    27. #130
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      Quote Originally Posted by t5mmmm View Post
      Funny: I am often amazed at how modern my 72 142E feels whenever I take it out ...

      You definitely do NOT want to add a catalytic converter to this car for a variety of reasons (it did not come with one, for starters ...). I see that you have a straight pipe out the rear, which leads me to believe that the system on the car is custom, and may be lacking the resonator. Muffler and resonator placement and pipe bends are all part of the tonal picture when it comes to exhausts. Have a look at the Simmons systems offered by SKANDIX: I have their 2.5" system on the 142 and am very happy with it. I had plans to install a 2" NOS Supersprint system (which looks really cool with its dual baloney-tip ends), but I think I'm going to stick with this freer-flowing, raspy setup.

      Can you provide me a link to that Simmons' system? Any other vendor? IPD doesn't seem to sell these sets.

      I mean yes, in comparison to my other 30 year plus cars, this car seems to come from outer space. The [almost] fault free mechanical fuel injection, the safety aspects in so many details, the swift smooth power steering, great suspension, soundproofing and just how comfortable it is to drive in is by far very modern. I really like my car. I meant in comparison to like-models, some of it takes a bit of getting used to, but nothing major really. I guess just the arrangement and visibility (which is by no means bad, its just different.)

      Next is to take it to a vintage car shop, and when I mean that it is that mechanics are all over 50, they don't (and won't) service anything with computers, they align cars the old fashion way, have tools from the era, and the "waiting area" if so, could've come from the Brady Bunch or Partridge Family set. They smoke while they work, they are hard of hearing, but they get things done. There's an 80 y/o mechanic there. Its what keeps him alive. I am going to get the car aligned and for a after break in oil change.

      After this, I am going to have my a/c converted to the new gas.

    28. #131
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      I got mine ('71 142E) from Scandcar Scanhttp://volvoonderdelen.com/140142144/Exhaust/Exhaust-set-142144-AE-SPORT-carb-and-fuel-inj-engines-1973-in-4887/ . The Simons part # is 071k. It has 2" piping, a front muffler and rear muffler but no tailpipe resonator. The tailpipe is a rather bland functional piece of steel tube. If you want something that looks the part, you will need to modify the tip. The kit was complete, assembly was a snap and the quality seems to be good (only time will tell on durability).

      Be aware that Simons seems to do the 'classic' exhaust kits in limited batch runs. When I ordered the kit from Scandcar they emailed to advise me that there would be about a 6 week wait before they could deliver it. If you go with Scandcar, you might want to email them ahead of time to check to see if the parts are in stock or what the expected wait time is.

    29. #132
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      I think the issue with mine is that those systems are for -73 and mine is a '74. The gas tank was moved in my model to the front. What I'm going to do is grab the one from my donor car and have it replicated.

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      I spotted you on Gosling yesterday and gave chase. Would've honked but my horn doesn't work. I was in the beige 242.

      Nice 142! I read about it on here a few months ago and didn't expect to run into it around town. Glad I got to see it!

    31. #134
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      Hey there! Yes I did see your car and I remember that I took a mental note of it. I live in Creekside and I think that day I was driving back from 242 so I drove quite a bit on Gosling. Next time I'll be sure to stop and say hi when I see a beige 242.
      Quote Originally Posted by regular View Post
      I spotted you on Gosling yesterday and gave chase. Would've honked but my horn doesn't work. I was in the beige 242, I still have few items to run on my list for the car, but its basically done.

      Nice 142! I read about it on here a few months ago and didn't expect to run into it around town. Glad I got to see it!

    32. #135
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      Hello everyone, I was absent from the forum for a big while. My car now is fully restored. I am very happy with it. I don't drive it daily, although I could. Everything is working fine, including the A/C. I did away with the automatic transmission and the fuel injection system. I installed an M41 and sourced pedals from a friend of the 140 club in Sweden. I obtained a donor car with an M41 and also changed the rear axle to mate with the M41 it came with. I also installed the 240 Turbo wheels, sport springs, a front lower spoiler, a 90's Volvo 240 stereo and a weber carb setup. I also put in Bilstein shocks.

      This is how it looks now. (Well the windshield is being replaced tomorrow with a new one as I accidentally dropped a spare a/c drier on it yesterday), but overall it turned out to be a really nice car!




    33. #136
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      It turned out nicely, you should be pleased!

    34. #137
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      the front spoiler looks nice, even with the big bumper...where did you source it? I would like to do something with mine, either put the front bumper back on (with a commercially available spoiler) or leave the bumper off and fab something to tidy up the lower part of the car.


      Your panel fit is really nice. Did you have a specialized shop address this? My doors, along with a number of other 142s and 240s that I have seen, bulge out at the bottom and produce an unsightly gap.
      Last edited by John Douglas; 09-11-2015 at 02:11 PM.
      '04 S60R, silver, gobi, 6mt...(SOLD)
      '63 122 2dr, Daily Driver...(SOLD)
      '74 142, Driving Project...(SOLD)
      '92 245, Gear Hauler...for my 16 yr old...eventually
      '91 244, yep, the kid took the wagon...(SOLD)
      '93 245, Daily Diver

    35. #138
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      Quote Originally Posted by John Douglas View Post
      the front spoiler looks nice, even with the big bumper...where did you source it? I would like to do something with mine, either put the front bumper back on (with a commercially available spoiler) or leave the bumper off and fab something to tidy up the lower part of the car.


      Your panel fit is really nice. Did you have a specialized shop address this? My doors, along with a number of other 142s and 240s that I have seen, bulge out at the bottom and produce an unsightly gap.
      Thanks. I bought it from IPD, they had an old stock and they sell them as not full quality but I had no issues with it. I had the body shop that did y car paint and install it. I have a very good body shop guy in Dallas. He does good work and good prices. He did all the panel fitting, along with body work and paint. The hood sometimes you have to adjust it manually after closing it but it holds up fine.

      By the way, I have an extra spoiler for the front, though its for a pre '74 model. Its new in box. I think I bough that for another earlier 142 that never made its way here. Just remembered. Thanks! If you want it I'll scoop it up. I'd want just the price for it plus shipping.

    36. #139
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      Hi everyone, just came back for a quick visit and read through. I still own my 1974 Volvo 142. Every now and then some electrical minion will pop up, some connection will get loose and so on, but overall it runs fine. I don't drive it much, I should drive it more though.

      Some time ago I actually changed from automatic to a fully working M41 manual transmission with overdrive for this car. In doing so I swapped the rear end from the donor car thinking it was mated and original. After doing some research I found out that the M41 on the donor car was also a swap and that the rear end was mated to a BW35 automatic. This when the overdrive kicks in there is a bit of a bump and runs nice if you have momentum, but clearly you lose torque power in other environments. I'm looking to mate it with the correct rear end. Anyway to source it?

      Also I just found out what Photobucket did, mainly killing many forums by doing so. I guess they were free and all, but it did hurt this forum. What options for uploading pictures are you using?

      Attachment 8841

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      As long as its a Dana 30 rear end, the only difference that I am aware of is in the drive ratio. You could confirm this by pulling the diff cover and count the teeth on the ring gear. The shop manual (and the owner's manual if you have it) should have the final drive ratio for the BW35 diff.

      In 1971 with 15" wheels and 165/78 tires, the stock final drive for an M41 was 4.27:1. I think it was 4.1:1 on the M40 cars. 4.56:1 was an option. I ditched my 4.27 on my car because they were really worn and replaced them with a 4.56:1. With 185/65 15 tires the higher ratio makes it a treat to drive around town; but, it is noisy at highway speeds. If you search around, I think there are a couple of other drive ratios around. Give consideration to your tire and wheel size when picking a final drive ratio. I would probably go back to 4.27:1 with the slightly smaller wheel diameter that I have now.

      Rock Auto sells Dana ring and pinion sets for the Dana 30 at probably the lowest price around. Randy's Ring and Pinion also sells R&P sets for the Dana 30. The Dana 30 requires special tools to get the guts out of the differential housing so you will have to find somebody who does differential work to do the replacement. Dana 30 diffs were used on Ford Broncos, their AWD van and I think some Jeeps so it should not be difficult to find a shop.

      There is now an insert image icon on the toolbar that you can use to insert images into posts. Goodbye Photobucket.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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