Write Up: Front Struts and Springs Installation.
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    1. #1
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Write Up: Front Struts and Springs Installation.

      [SIZE="4"]Discovered my front left shock was leaking. Wanted to add my Eibach Pro springs to the front and cut a coil off the rear.



      1. Remove wheel and then remove this anti-roll bar link. The outer nut is 15mm, the allen key is 5mm. You need to secure the inner bolt as it will spin.



      Like so.



      3. Remove the wheel sensor cable and the tie rod from the strut.



      4. Also unplug the wheel sensor from the hub.



      5. Next pull off the brake lines where it is anchored to the strut. Give a shot of PB Blaster around where the strut is attached to the steering knuckle.





      6. Use a 15mm socket (I think), remove the bolt behind the knuckle which secures the strut.



      7. Use a screwdriver and slowly pry the strut away from the knuckle. It will come off without much effort.





      8. From inside the engine bay look at the strut tower. There are three bolts surrounding a central nut inside a depression. Use a 18mm socket to loosen the spring seat nut (the one in the center). Only loosen it, do not remove the nut. (If you take the nut off, the spring will no longer be constrained and release all of its elastic potential energy suddenly, the shock and spring will be ejected (very forcefully) downwards and may damage hydraulic and electrical lines, and the whole assembly will come apart inside the wheel well. Not good!) Loosening this nut now will make it easier for you to remove it without using a special socket pass-thru tool later. A allen key is used as a counter-hold to keep the strut from spinning while you attempt to loosen the nut with your other hand. It is difficult to break this nut loose while the assembly is out of the car. So do this while the assembly is still attached to the car.
      The nut in question.
      VVV


      9. Then use a 13mm socket to remove the surrounding 3 bolts that attach the spring seat to the body frame.

      10. Remove the strut assembly from the car. The spring seat strut retention nut (the middle one on the strut piston) is still there, keeping the assembly together.



      11. Empty wheel well. Check CV joints and boots for leakage, tie rod boot for cracks, as you have very good access to all these items now. I found my right side CV boot had developed a tiny crack and leaking grease.


      12. Attach spring compressors and compress coil springs until the tension is off the spring seats. You'll know when you can spin the spring seats freely.



      13. When the spring seat is completely unloaded, use a 6 allen wrench to hold the center of the strut while using a 18mm crescent wrench to remove the nut. I didn't have a 18mm wrench, hence the adjustable wrench. This is extremely difficult to do if you do not have the special socket pass through tool or an extra set of hands, if this nut is still very tight. The coils are also compressed so there is potential for broken fingers if you aren't careful and stripping the nut if you don't do it properly.



      14. Strut assembly disassembled.


      Spring seat separated from bearing.

      Replaced new bearings and pressed back into spring seat. Rubber bump stop separated from bearing and dust boot. All parts washed.


      15. Note orientation of spring seat with respect to the car. Arrow points to the side of the car while the three nubs along my index finger faces the inside.



      16. When assembling the pieces, the bearing seat should be tapered towards the front. There is a rear tab on the bearing and should be aligned with the middle nub of the spring seat.





      These two tabs must align with the metal tab on the bottom of the strut.


      17. Assemble the strut and then reattach to the vehicle. If you plan on lowering the car with another set of springs, remove the spring compressor and re-compress the lowering springs now. Install the springs and secure the spring seat before uncompressing the spring.
      Tighten the 3 strut mounting bolts to the frame.



      18. Align the strut with the knuckle and put some anti-seize around the tubular channel so the strut can slip back in.

      19. Put a jack under the knuckle and as you jack the knuckle up, grab the brake rotor and jiggle back and forth. The strut will easily slip in and fully seat with the steering knuckle this way. Feel the bottom of the knuckle to determine if the strut had passed completely through and you can feel the bottom dome of the strut protruding slightly. Reattach the securing bolt and tighten. This bolt is secured from the front (bolt head faces toward the front of the vehicle), on both sides. If you feel you need a lot of torque to tighten the bolt, you've probably passed it in from the wrong side.



      20. Reverse all steps for the brake line and the tie rod bolts.

      21. Tighten the spring seat nut. You are done.

      Rear Springs. Top to bottom: Cut Eibach Pro, Elevate, OEM Springs.


      Front Springs. Left to right: Elevate, Eibach Pro, OEM spring.


      An alignment is in order with the change in geometry.
      Last edited by aldebaran; 07-10-2013 at 05:54 PM.

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    3. #2
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Thanks for the write-up!!! this is great and timely since I plan on doing this sometime soon I hope...

      Quick clarification: So you don't need to compress the spring prior to removing the spring/struts assembly from the car? Nothing is going to fly out?
      And you don't need to touch the brakes it seems. Am I correct?

      Had you done this before and how long did it took you for the front?

      Again thx for taking the time
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    4. #3
      VERY helpful Thanks !!!

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    6. #4
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      TG, I think he mentions to only loosen the spring seat nut, and not remove it entirely.

      Great write-up. Will use this for future repairs.
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    7. #5
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by TG View Post
      Thanks for the write-up!!! this is great and timely since I plan on doing this sometime soon I hope...

      Quick clarification: So you don't need to compress the spring prior to removing the spring/struts assembly from the car? Nothing is going to fly out?
      And you don't need to touch the brakes it seems. Am I correct?

      Had you done this before and how long did it took you for the front?

      Again thx for taking the time
      You're welcome! I edited the procedure to clarify this step as well.

      No, there is no need to compress the spring prior to removing the assembly from the car. The nut in the middle of the strut holds the whole assembly together. Do not remove it before you compress the spring. All the pieces will fly out inside the wheel well if you do so. Only loosen it slightly.

      Brakes can be left on the knuckle. There is no need to remove the calipers nor the steering tie rod/ball joint, per VADIS.

      Nope this was my first time doing it. It took me all day, from 10am till 8pm...lol. I took lunch breaks, snapped pictures for this writeup, neighbors dropped by and chatted with me...I washed all the parts etc. It should take about 2 hours each side if you take your time.
      Last edited by aldebaran; 06-02-2012 at 11:37 PM.

    8. #6
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      I took lunch breaks
      Multiple lunches are important!

      Let's just sticky this and be done now It's about time someone finally took the time to do a write up and didn't get so excited about the lowering springs that they forgot to take any procedure pictures at all!

    9. #7
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Multiple lunches are important!
      I got hungry with all the exertion.

      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Let's just sticky this and be done now It's about time someone finally took the time to do a write up and didn't get so excited about the lowering springs that they forgot to take any procedure pictures at all!
      Are you referring to yourself? We may have to wait till Monday before our forum mod comes in to do some housekeeping.

      Technically I already had the springs for awhile so my excitement had worn out. Lol

    10. #8
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      Hi There
      First of all thanks for an excellent write up! I recently did the same thing and installed a set of eicbachs pro line. Initially I left the stock struts. Later found out they're not strong enough to handle the drop as my front end was hitting the bump stops very hard. I replaced the stock with a set of KYB. Turned out I had the same problem. When driving at highway speed and hitting a substantial bump or dip the struts would bottom out striking the bump stops hard!!I decided to buck up.$ I purchase a set of Billstein HD and had them installed hoping that would be the end of that.Car rode great for the first 8 months but now Im starting to feel that bump stop hit again:Called Billstein and they told me to trim the internal bump stop on the strut to gain a little more travel on the strut.Running out of options here!! I'm wondering if you had any such issues with your ride. Mine is an AWD and I live in NYC.{****ty roads} Car is barely used only 16k.If you have any other suggestions {other than coilovers} please let me know.Thanks for your help!! Nice ride by the way!!

    11. #9
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      [IMG][/IMG]Here is what it looks like now

    12. #10
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Thanks Rsilver, it is too early to tell but I'm sure there are others who've had their cars lowered who can chime in.
      Wow, your ride looks like its hardly lowered at all..and you are still bottoming out? Are those 17 inch Pegs too?

    13. #11
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      We may have to wait till Monday before our forum mod comes in to do some housekeeping.
      The glue has been applied a day early.
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    14. #12
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      The glue has been applied a day early.
      So sneaky!

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      Yes they are 17. I imagine with 18 would be even worse!!The pro kit is a very mild drop. That's the reason I did it hoping I didn't have any issues.

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      I have a set of 18" medusas that I don't want to install until I get that issue solved.

    17. #15
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Rsilver View Post
      Yes they are 17. I imagine with 18 would be even worse!!The pro kit is a very mild drop. That's the reason I did it hoping I didn't have any issues.
      With such a mild drop, even the stock struts should have been sufficient. It may just be that because of your horrendous road conditions, any strut will give you the same outcome eventually. You might need the full suspension travel of the stock AWD set up.

      I wouldn't put 18" wheels, they will be damaged for sure.

    18. #16
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      I think you're right. But God the car looks like a Jeep with the stock AWD suspension.

    19. #17
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      Are you referring to yourself?
      Myself and many others I've talked to on SS and C30World. I also think, many of us just aren't confident that we did the most efficient process because there's never been a full wright up, and not many of us have gotten around to re-doing the shocks yet.

      Quote Originally Posted by Rsilver View Post
      the car looks like a Jeep with the stock AWD suspension.
      Despite your car not looking as low as some of us, it definitely is a lot lower than the monster truck S40 that it originated as. Your front actually looks decently low in the pics, but the rear fender gap looks the same as the stock FWDs.

    20. #18
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      Did u have any of those issues I mention on your vehicle?? {bottoming out}

    21. #19
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Rsilver View Post
      Did u have any of those issues I mention on your vehicle?? {bottoming out}
      Me? None so far, but I'm keeping an eye out for uneven wear on the rear tires with the excessive negative camber (stock arms). We have pretty good roads here in GA, and I know where all of the major potholes are to avoid.

    22. #20
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      Very nice Melvin


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    23. #21
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      You beat me to the How-to. I just did my struts and shocks last Monday and hadn't gotten chance to post. Very nice job.
      Stan

    24. #22
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      You beat me to the How-to. I just did my struts and shocks last Monday and hadn't gotten chance to post. Very nice job.
      Stan
      Thanks. You can append to it still. I didn't take any pics for the rear springs.

    25. #23
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      I would also like to point out another observation. A strut does not have to show signs of leaks to need replacing. My other strut provided no damping during the first three inches of travel and then lots of cavitation in the damper oil which resulted in squishing noises all the way down.

      I bought some clear vinyl tubing at Lowe's and wrapped the lower portions of the coils so it wouldn't rattle on the metal perches.

      Last edited by aldebaran; 06-05-2012 at 09:45 AM.

    26. #24
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      Mine were the same way, the left strut had no gas pressure and a dead spot. The right was leaking, no gas and a bigger dead spot. The right bearing fell apart when I removed the top nut. Other than a little leaning and mount noise, I had no idea they were that bad. I did find that right front tire inner edge is rather chewed.

      I put Koni Yellows on with stock springs. The car corners very flat and feels glued to the road. I am still adjusting the damping to achieve a good balance between handling and comfort. With 1 turn toward firm on the rear and 3/4 turn on the fronts it is a little too harsh. When I get a chance I want to back the rears off to 3/4 of a turn. While the car handles great, it some how feels like it needs to be lower to the ground. This may be more of a sensation as the car has much less lean in corners and my body wants to lean instead. I wonder if the FSD's do this too?

      That is an interesting idea with the hose over the coil.

      Stan
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    27. #25
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      I just did this yesterday to my friends c30. These fronts are a pain. 2 big pitas are taking off the shock from the spindle. We used a crowbar to pry the spindle off. Idk how you got it off with a screwdriver Melvin lol. The second big pain was unscrewing the top mount from the shock. That thing kept on spinning as you were turning it lol. We used a vice grip to keep it from spinning. Voila! I can't wait to get kw v3s and put them on my car lol


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    28. #26
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by JN2k108 View Post
      I just did this yesterday to my friends c30. These fronts are a pain. 2 big pitas are taking off the shock from the spindle. We used a crowbar to pry the spindle off. Idk how you got it off with a screwdriver Melvin lol. The second big pain was unscrewing the top mount from the shock. That thing kept on spinning as you were turning it lol. We used a vice grip to keep it from spinning. Voila! I can't wait to get kw v3s and put them on my car lol


      Sent from my iPhone4S using Tapatalk while on the toilet.
      LOL..

      Well 1) you are supposed to remove the bolt and then spray some PB Blaster. Jack the entire front end of the car up so you unload the tie rods/roll bar. Then a screw driver will get the strut off the spindle. I did it again today to get to the CV boot. But aborted as I could not get the axle off the transmission. I guess I'll pay my tech to do it on Saturday.

      2) You are also supposed to loosen the spring retaining nut while the assembly is on the car.

    29. #27
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      Yeah both sides were up and it still took some time getting the shocks off. One note on number 2 was that our mechanic friend said not to do that as the spring might bounce up. So we went with what he said lol.


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    30. #28
      Junior Member ion's Avatar
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      I couldn't get mine off with just a screwdriver and tons of PB, and in attempting to pry it out, I bent the tabs on the old struts (didn't matter to me because I was replacing them with FSDs). The solution I ended up with was a sledgehammer to the knuckle (that thing is solid steel and the sledgehammer barely scratched it). Using the sledgehammer, the strut came right out. I then noticed that the bottom of the inside of the knuckle and the bottom of the strut were pretty badly rusted.

      Another note for anyone else doing this, my new FSDs wouldn't fit back in the knuckle completely either. So I ended up sanding away the rust on the inside of the knuckle, and sanding away some of the powercoating and smoothing out the welds on the bottom of the strut. It was still a tight fit getting the strut all the way into the knuckle, I ended up jacking the the assembly all the way up (applying pressure from the bottom) and hammering on the knuckle with my sledgehammer. Took a few hits with the assembly raised all the way up, but the struts eventually slid in.

      Thanks a lot for your writeup aldebaran! Based on JN2k108's comments, I think loosening the spring retaining nut is a must! I don't see how the spring could ever bounce up, all I did was break the nut free while it was on the car, I didn't unscrew it at all. Once I had the struts out of the car and the springs compressor, the retaining nut came right off with absolutely no trouble.

    31. #29
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      After a few days of driving on my new shocks, I have to say that the ride quality has improved despite being lowered. The shocks are absorbing the bumps and steering is still lively but not overly crashy like before.

    32. #30
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      Great write up! I'm going to have to do the strut bearings this week... For the 5th(!!!) time in 4 years... Might as well d the whole lot again!
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    33. #31
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Why are your bearings wearing so quickly? My car has 80K miles and they were actually still in pretty good condition.
      Thanks, btw.

    34. #32
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      I have absolutely no idea why.

      I don't have a heavy engine (the lightest version available). I don't have a heavy gearbox. Nor is my car overloaded at the front. I don't go up and down curbs nor do I always head through potholes. No matter if I use my ultra light 15" steel rims or my former 18" Atreus or the current 19" Tomasons. The noise is back with in days of the repair. I'm not the only one with this kind of issue. The C30 seems to have issues with those bearings. Oddly, there is no connection to anything. Lowering? Nope. Even cars with stock factory suspension have the issues. Heavy rims? Nope. Even light 15"s have the problem. Engine weight? Nope.

      My dealership is lost. So is Volvo Germany and Volvo Sweden say "there is no problem".

      This time I have gone with non Volvo bearings. Instead I'm using SKF bearings and hope that they will last. I'm also going to coat them in a fine amount of grease.

      In average, mine were changed every 20.000 km. The ones at the moment have been creaking since about 50.000 km (about 30.000 miles) as I couldn't be bothered to change them. Now I will.
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    35. #33
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      Started and what a stupid idea of Volvo to fit the ASB with those idiotic couplers... Whoever designed them needs to be tared and feathered!
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    36. #34
      Put on my coilovers today using this thread--thanks everyone!

      However, the nut holding the strut assembly together WOULD NOT loosen a BIT while still secured in the tower, so I removed the entire strut assembly and had to take it to Firestone to have them take it off with all their fancy tools.

      Also, I found that my right CV boot had come off and was leaking a fair amount, so I'll have to have that replaced. Any danger in driving it ~5 miles to the shop or should I have it towed?

      Other than that, everything went as planned.

      Cheers!
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    37. #35
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      I am still trying to get my Koni yellows dialed in. The adjustment is for the rebound only. The car handles great but the ride quality is odd. I am using Koni {8741 1490LSport &
      8741 1490RSport on front, 8040 1353Sport on back} with the stock springs (not sure what version ie. comfort, sport, dynamic). I am guessing that they are comfort. Anyone know how to tell?

      I started with the rears 1/2 turn firm, fronts 1/2 turn firm. This was too bouncy. If I increased the front, the car felt unbalanced.
      I recently had 1 turn on the rear and 3/4 turn on front. The ride is a little harsh on small bumps but under damped on slower bumps.
      Today I set the rears to 3/4 turn and 5/8 turn on front. I haven't tried it yet.


      I had put Koni yellows on my '02 S40 with stock springs and loved it. I just set the rears to 1/2 turn and dialed the fronts to balance the car and it was golden. So far I am a little frustrated now. I am not sure what my next course of action should be. Try different springs? Try different shocks/struts?

      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

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