Write Up: Front Struts and Springs Installation. - Page 7
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    1. #211
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      can you loosen the strut flange nut (single nut on top of strut) while the strut assy is installed or do you need need the pasthru tool? the flange bolts are pretty rusted over and i cant tell if im doing it wrong - cant get the nut to spin at all and dont want to risk snapping it. i tried doing it while the struts were out but i was applying so much force the Allen key was bending against the ground.
      Yes, first you have to break the nut free of the upper strut mount - that is so a socket and a wrench will spin it while holding the upper mount still. This is where 99% of the tension on mine resided and I bent the allen just like you until I spun the nut and broke it free from the strut mount (almost like rubber holding it in place sorta deal). After this happens, you can stick the allen into it and spin the nut loose and off the shock easily. I'm not sure how much tension is left in the springs at max decompression, so please be careful.

      My personal go to is that I put it on the ground, then hold it with another wrench in one of the 3 bolts on the top and crank down on the nut until it starts spinning. After that, you can stick the allen in and undo the nut off of it. I' m a fan of a socket and channellocks to spin the nut.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 08-07-2018 at 01:10 AM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
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    3. #212
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Yes, first you have to break the nut free of the upper strut mount - that is so a socket and a wrench will spin it while holding the upper mount still. This is where 99% of the tension on mine resided and I bent the allen just like you until I spun the nut and broke it free from the strut mount (almost like rubber holding it in place sorta deal). After this happens, you can stick the allen into it and spin the nut loose and off the shock easily. I'm not sure how much tension is left in the springs at max decompression, so please be careful.

      My personal go to is that I put it on the ground, then hold it with another wrench in one of the 3 bolts on the top and crank down on the nut until it starts spinning. After that, you can stick the allen in and undo the nut off of it. I' m a fan of a socket and channellocks to spin the nut.
      ok so just to be clear i can in fact loosen the bolt while the struts installed without an allen key - using just 18mm socket? ive been spraying it relentlessly for the last few days with wd40 trying to help it soak loose.
      2008 S40 T5 AWD ("Shadow") |ELEVATE 3" Intake, 2.5" Charge Pipe, Intercooler, Torque Mount, ECU Mount, TCV, Turbosmart CBV, Turbosmart Actuator, stage 3 APC Tune, 3 Stickers (5HP)ea||ClockWorkCalibrations Custom 3" Exhaust||EuroSportTuning 3" downpipe.||CF Cone Filter||De-Badged||custom Mesh Grill||Intercooler Cut out||Porsche 911 Throttle body upgrade||18" Enkie PDC Wheels wrapped in 225/45/18 Sentury UHP||M3 Spoiler|| 8k Morimoto HID Kit|| White LED Fog,City,trunk light|"embody God, then go crazy"

    4. #213
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Yes, this is the best way to do it at home so you have better control over everything. I will stress for safety - ONLY LOOSEN ONE TURN. DO NOT REMOVE NUT!

      You'll still likely need the key also or you may tear the top mount out but it will be much easier.
      Last edited by pczeilon; 08-07-2018 at 09:15 AM.
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    6. #214
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Nice Info on Here - More Pictures would be Great - My Old V50 is just Now getting New Shocks & Struts - do to the Passenger side @ 11 Yrs. Originals have given up . .
      Hope He see this Info Here . . New Wheel F Bearing on Passenger side & All new Toe Links as those Old ones were all Frozen ( Alignment Purposes ) . . My Old V50 is getting Great Care . . Anyway .
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    7. #215
      Junior Member 80sGuy's Avatar
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      Had a great time trying to remove/replace my struts, starting with the driver side - just to find out that it is sitting dead tight on the knuckle. No choice but to put everything back again. Gonna have to order a 4 lb dead blow hammer to see if I can pound it off. Switching the springs out are going to be something else too! Some say this is an easy job, not so. If not I'm gonna have to use some TNT dynamite, clear myself 30-feet away and see if I can BLOW it off!

      Nevermind the PB-Blaster sprayed all over.




    8. #216
      Quote Originally Posted by 80sGuy View Post
      Had a great time trying to remove/replace my struts, starting with the driver side - just to find out that it is sitting dead tight on the knuckle. No choice but to put everything back again. Gonna have to order a 4 lb dead blow hammer to see if I can pound it off. Switching the springs out are going to be something else too! Some say this is an easy job, not so. If not I'm gonna have to use some TNT dynamite, clear myself 30-feet away and see if I can BLOW it off!

      Nevermind the PB-Blaster sprayed all over.
      Was the same for me, got a minisledge and it did the trick nicely. If possible chase the threads in the securing bolt and get all that dirt outta there. I had one loosen up on me because there was too much dirt in there and even though it was torqued correctly it tried to spin out on me and loosen up.
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    9. #217
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      For sure let it soak over night, i would even give it an extra spray every couple hours. I used a heavy duty pry bar with a hammer and knocked it right over the base of the steering knuckle bolt to help it separate, it will eventually slide right down. The job is easy, when everything isnt rusted over and seized up of course lol - spent a whole day just trying to dremmel off the steering knuckle bolt.
      2008 S40 T5 AWD ("Shadow") |ELEVATE 3" Intake, 2.5" Charge Pipe, Intercooler, Torque Mount, ECU Mount, TCV, Turbosmart CBV, Turbosmart Actuator, stage 3 APC Tune, 3 Stickers (5HP)ea||ClockWorkCalibrations Custom 3" Exhaust||EuroSportTuning 3" downpipe.||CF Cone Filter||De-Badged||custom Mesh Grill||Intercooler Cut out||Porsche 911 Throttle body upgrade||18" Enkie PDC Wheels wrapped in 225/45/18 Sentury UHP||M3 Spoiler|| 8k Morimoto HID Kit|| White LED Fog,City,trunk light|"embody God, then go crazy"

    10. #218
      Junior Member 80sGuy's Avatar
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      OK guys I'll try that. Going to order a 4 lb dead-blow along and wait for the weather to warm up a bit. It's been freezing lately. Couldn't remember when last time L.A. was THIS cold! I just read from Pelican and they advise to jack both sides of the car up evenly sitting on jack-stands for even load.

      "Changing the front struts requires jacking up the car and making sure it is firmly supported on jack stands. See our article on Jacking up your C30 for more information. Keep in mind that it is not possible to remove the struts one side at a time because of the preload on the sway bar with the wheels on the ground. This prevents the sway bar drop links from being removed".

      Good tutorial link here...
      https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

    11. #219
      Junior Member 80sGuy's Avatar
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      Finally got the front struts replaced. One for each day was enough for me. I gotta say it was the hardest job ever since I have to compress the strings , etc and especially when trying to seat it back into the knuckle. Ended up mounting the wheel in-between jobs and let gravity do its work, then jack vehicle up again (w/ the scissor jack from the trunk), remove wheel again to screw everything back together. The strut mount is the worst design ever. Out of three screws holding, half of them ended up ripping through on both sides. So one side is being held by one and the other by two. Couldn't get them out either because it got stuck in the middle of the stem located by the springs. Other than that car feels great. Softer on bumps and less body-roll. Will tackle the rear ones soon whenever I have time.

      edit: I meant to say compress the 'springs' instead of strings.
      Last edited by 80sGuy; 03-17-2019 at 08:10 PM.

    12. #220
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      Just got done doing the same thing to, this time around seemed so much harder to get the strut base into the knuckle, I finally spackled it with 5th wheel greese and did the same thing you did just with a jack under the Lower control arm.


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      2008 S40 T5 AWD ("Shadow") |ELEVATE 3" Intake, 2.5" Charge Pipe, Intercooler, Torque Mount, ECU Mount, TCV, Turbosmart CBV, Turbosmart Actuator, stage 3 APC Tune, 3 Stickers (5HP)ea||ClockWorkCalibrations Custom 3" Exhaust||EuroSportTuning 3" downpipe.||CF Cone Filter||De-Badged||custom Mesh Grill||Intercooler Cut out||Porsche 911 Throttle body upgrade||18" Enkie PDC Wheels wrapped in 225/45/18 Sentury UHP||M3 Spoiler|| 8k Morimoto HID Kit|| White LED Fog,City,trunk light|"embody God, then go crazy"

    13. #221
      Junior Member 80sGuy's Avatar
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      I also did the jack under the control arm method but it only settled but not all the way down. Couldn't get the nut all the way through because part of the strut hook was still on the way, just that tiny part where it needed major weight to do the job.

    14. #222
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      Like many of you I encountered the same frustrations and cursing with this job and gave in to having it done. Recently I saw this how to on the job and at about the 2:20 mark had to pick my jaw up off the floor. Hope it saves someone else from the frustration I encountered.

    15. #223
      Quote Originally Posted by Draven View Post
      Like many of you I encountered the same frustrations and cursing with this job and gave in to having it done. Recently I saw this how to on the job and at about the 2:20 mark had to pick my jaw up off the floor. Hope it saves someone else from the frustration I encountered.
      Yeppers - I moved mine a smidge as well. Not very much, maybe 1/8" or so, but it definitely loosened up to allow some rocking in the arm, then I removed it with smacks downward. Going back onto the car it allowed me to apply pressure with a floorjack and knock the knuckle side to side and lets it slide up to the proper point to put the bolt through the hook. Much easier and better IMO.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
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    16. #224
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      Replaced both struts on a 2008 C30 V2 using free used struts with @70k miles from a 2012 C30R. New Febi mounts & Sachs bearings. Passenger side spring “pops” when turning slowly moving forward and backwards. The bearing did come apart and I had to put 4 balls back in and snap back together before reinstalling into the spring. The spring is rusty on the bottom and the coating is peeling. Removed and disassembled and reinstalled with the same results. I think it was a little better or less “popping” but not sure. I’m thinking bent strut or bearing not reassembled correctly. Original driver strut shot, passenger side still has tension, but leaking. Didn’t have spring noise pop before. Any ideas?

    17. #225
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      Make sure that you have the mount oriented properly on the spring, the bearing and mount to the strut tower. I made that mistake initially. See here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...allation/page4
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    18. #226
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      Thanks. Nubs are lined up with mount and seat and strut pinch flange. I did have to align mount nub with seat nub after I installed strut into pinch with screw driver to get mount holes to align. Maybe I created tension. Only does it on slow turns. BTW, How did you come upon my inquiry?

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