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    1. #36
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      Given the year of your S40, I wonder if you need newer/stiffer springs.
      2005 S40 2.4i | ELEVATE Rear Sway-Bar | ELEVATE Grille | EBC1309 Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads w/Stock 16" Wheels
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    3. #37
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      I am still trying to get my Koni yellows dialed in. The adjustment is for the rebound only. The car handles great but the ride quality is odd. I am using Koni {8741 1490LSport &
      8741 1490RSport on front, 8040 1353Sport on back} with the stock springs (not sure what version ie. comfort, sport, dynamic). I am guessing that they are comfort. Anyone know how to tell?


      Stan
      Look in this thread, post #3. Give me the last row of numbers on your plate/sticker & I can tell you.

      You have the firmer of the two available rear shocks. I would set the rear to zero & then play with the front. I think the factory lowering springs would be a great combo if you want to stay on the mild side.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    4. #38
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      According to VADIS, I have the comfort suspension. The new settings do seem better (rear 3/4 turn, front 1/2 turn).

      I have 106K miles on the car so the springs could be getting weak. If I change springs, I don't want to drop much. I was looking at the Volvo lowering kit which drops 0.8 inches (20mm). It is darn expensive though at a little over $400. What are my other options for an inch or less drop?

      Thanks
      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

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    6. #39
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      What are my other options for an inch or less drop?

      Thanks
      Stan
      AFAIK - none. Maybe the coil-over kits go that high but that's way more than $400. I'm in the same boat, I want to firm things up with a very minimal drop.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    7. #40
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      I would suggest the Eibach Pros, as they drop the car 1.2", the least of all the after market springs available. I think they are $300-ish.

    8. #41
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      I would suggest the Eibach Pros, as they drop the car 1.2", the least of all the after market springs available. I think they are $300-ish.
      +1
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    9. #42
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      I think I finally got the Koni's dialed in pretty good with my comfort springs with the rears set to 3/4 turn and fronts set to 3/8 turn. It is amazing how much the ride improves when you match the damping to the spring and balance front to rear. The ride is comfortable and almost boring until you throw it into a turn or hit the brakes. There is just a little body roll and it tracks like on rails. There is just a slight nose dive on hard braking. While not bad, I don't think the Koni Sports are ideal with these springs. I could probably live with this though I think things would be better with sportier springs.

      I see IPD has a good deal going now on the Eibach's. Or maybe I'll see if anyone puts some "Dynamic Chassis" springs up for sale.
      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

    10. #43
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      I had another idea. The car feels like there is not enough compression damping in the rear. The front feels good. I may try a different shock on the rear (Sachs, KYB or Bilstein). I am using the Koni's that are called out for the S40/V50 and not the one called out for the C30. Too bad I tossed the original shocks... Any thoughts on the idea?
      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

    11. #44
      Junior Member ion's Avatar
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      You want new springs, not new shocks.

      - Shocks for the S40/V50 are stiffer than for the C30
      - Shocks won't help much with compression, that's what the springs are for; shocks prevent you from bouncing after a bump (think jumping on a trampoline, then imagine jumping on a trampoline under water)
      - I have Koni FSDs (close in stiffness to the yellows) and Eibach springs and my car handles perfectly
      - The Eibach springs really aren't that severe of a drop, I was worried about bottoming out but haven't had a single issue so far
      - If you do lower, make sure you deal with the stock bump stops (I bought Groundcontrol bump stops) because you'll have reduced shock/strut travel as a result of the lowering

    12. #45
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      I was wondering about the bump stops if I lower. Thanks for the info. The other concern is my rear camber. With the stock springs the rear camber is right at the limit (-2.3 and -2.4 deg). If I go lower, I will likely need to change the upper control arms to adjustable or the Volvo arms that reduce by ~0.7 deg.
      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

    13. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      With the stock springs the rear camber is right at the limit (-2.3 and -2.4 deg). .
      Stan
      That seems excessive, hmmm I don't know . . . Don't you have adjustable rear camber arms? They don't allow for a better range?
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    14. #47
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      That seems really excessive for a stock stance. I'm at -2.5° lowered, but about to change that.

    15. #48
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      A new step to add to the change-out and learn from my mistake.

      I found the solution for my Koni shocks on factory comfort spring issue. It had nothing to do with the shocks or the springs. While replacing the shocks and struts on my Toyota Sienna, I noticed that KYB recommended holding the shock/strut up-right, compressing it and extending it to get the gas and oil in their proper places. Apparently, the oil can go into the wrong places while sitting horizontal on the shelf. I got to thinking about the Koni's on the back of the V50. I held them horizontal and compressed them to adjust them more easily. Bad idea! This weekend I pulled them off again and cycled them about 4 times. On the first cycle there was some gurgling noises and was not very smooth. Subsequent cycles were smooth and quiet. Apparently, the oil was not in its proper place and the damping was greatly impacted. The car feels great now, very well damped and stable like Koni's should feel even with comfort springs.

      When installing shocks and / or struts, I recommend cycling them (fully compress and extend) at least 3 times in the up-right position to get the oil and gas in their proper places.

      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

    16. #49
      Junior Member ieatglue's Avatar
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      Ever since I lowered my car on H&R's the car seems to bottom out on small bumps. Did anyone cut the yellow bump stops (located on the strut) a notch? I know the Bilstein sport struts come with the smaller stops.
      Last edited by ieatglue; 04-21-2013 at 11:00 PM.
      Horsepower is how fast you hit a wall. Torque is how far you take that wall with you

    17. #50
      Junior Member nkreig's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ieatglue View Post
      Ever since I lowered my car on K&N's the car seems to bottom out on small bumps. Did anyone cut the yellow bump stops (located on the strut) a notch? I know the Bilstein sport struts come with the smaller stops.
      U lowered ur car on air filters? Lol j/k, I know what u meant

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    18. #51
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ieatglue View Post
      Ever since I lowered my car on K&N's the car seems to bottom out on small bumps. Did anyone cut the yellow bump stops (located on the strut) a notch? I know the Bilstein sport struts come with the smaller stops.
      How are your struts? I'm not sure what year your car is, but if the suspension is overly crashy or you feel like it bottoms out easily, then it is time for new shocks.
      The bump,stops on the strut are actually very soft so you should not feel it.
      Last edited by aldebaran; 07-03-2012 at 07:29 AM.

    19. #52
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      That is what my car felt like in the rear after I put the Koni's on without cycling them. There was too much motion in the rear and it would bottom even with the stock springs. After I did my fix above, the rear is firm. The shocks were likely stored laying flat (horizontal) and the oil may not be where it needs to be. Cycling them (fully compressed / fully extended) a few times in the up-right position may correct your problem. It was night and day with mine.
      Stan
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

    20. #53
      Junior Member seaton463's Avatar
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      Excellent write-up. It was very helpful this weekend when I was replacing the struts on the V50. I was able to get one of the struts out with just a screw driver, but the other took mini sledge and a small wooden block placed on the knuckle, even after copious amounts of PB that soaked overnight. Both the screwdriver and crowbar methods were unable to budge it. I guess it is just all of the salt they use around here.

      I did notice one difference though. We had a black metal mount attached to the plastic mount at the top of each strut. With this mount in place, we actually had to have the three tabs on the plastic mount turned 180 degrees from the tab on the bearing and tab on the strut. I double checked that this was how they were installed on the side I had yet to remove. It would also be impossible to reinstall the metal mount without doing this.
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    21. #54
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      but the other took mini sledge and a small wooden block placed on the knuckle,
      I used a sledge and wooden block to get my struts out from the knuckle, too. I don't like beating my car with metal on metal.

      I did notice one difference though. We had a black metal mount attached to the plastic mount at the top of each strut. With this mount in place, we actually had to have the three tabs on the plastic mount turned 180 degrees from the tab on the bearing and tab on the strut. I double checked that this was how they were installed on the side I had yet to remove. It would also be impossible to reinstall the metal mount without doing this.
      I'll second that. The parts only fit together one way. There's only one possible way to align the spring seat, bearing mount, and car. So the three tabs referred to in step 15 point were on the outboard side (no other option). Then I rotated the spring seat so its tabs pointed to the inboard side and was aligned with the mounting tab at the bottom of the strut, as originally mentioned in step 16.

      FWIW, I discovered that my spring seat was rotated 180 degrees from correct when I took out the old strut. That was puzzling to me, because although I've only had the car 6 months and I'm not sure about all the previous work that's been done, everything around the strut was still original. But maybe that's why the inside of the tires has more wear?

    22. #55
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      Just found out I have a leaky strut....will be doing this by myself now.
      I have never done any suspension work but all your work doing this write up made it look simple enough!
      Thanks

    23. #56
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      Quote Originally Posted by zetti View Post
      Just found out I have a leaky strut....will be doing this by myself now.
      I have never done any suspension work but all your work doing this write up made it look simple enough!
      Thanks
      Don't hesitate to ask questions. I did mine for the first time last spring and it wasn't smooth... but I'd do it again.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    24. #57
      Junior Member LotsaBoost's Avatar
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      night and day doing it the second time around for me lol. Make sure you hit the strut with some pb blaster for a couple consecutive nights prior to attempting this. Spray around where the strut enters the knuckle and behind it where the bolt is if possible, it will truly cut your replacement time in half.

    25. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      How are your struts? I'm not sure what year your car is, but if the suspension is overly crashy or you feel like it bottoms out easily, then it is time for new shocks.
      The bump,stops on the strut are actually very soft so you should not feel it.
      at carlisle you're going to show me how you took off the front shock with just a screw driver. lol
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    26. #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by JN2k108 View Post
      at carlisle you're going to show me how you took off the front shock with just a screw driver. lol
      But he's correct. I did the same. It's just a matter of leverage and the screw driver is small enough to fit in the strut bottom metal features . This mostly work for OE strut since those features don't exist on many aftermarket struts.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    27. #60
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      Write Up: Front Struts and Springs Installation.

      I tried doing that and idk how to fit it like that hahahaha


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    28. #61
      Junior Member LotsaBoost's Avatar
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      just look to the back of the strut and wedge it in between the bottom bend of the metal piece that the bolt passes through and the knuckle. then pry upward, just be careful not to bend the metal away from the strut, stay up and down.

    29. #62
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      The problem is after market struts have too thick of a powerdercoating. But OEM struts will slip off easily. Also keep the strut tube completely vertically oriented to the tunnel you are sliding it out of. Any misalignment will cause it to bind. So keep the movement up and down, not side to side.

    30. #63
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      Hey guys, I have a questions for anyone regarding the installation of struts. I have recently put in Koni FSDs on my car, and I could not find the correct torque for the nut holding the strut at the bottom. So i set it to the safest torqe i felt was best. i am not super strong, but it felt like i could go for a bit still. Step 19 said if you need too much torque you are probably putting it from the wrong side but I am not. So I was hoping someone might know.

      I have a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i.

      Thanks for any help,
      Eli

    31. #64
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      I could not find the correct torque for the nut holding the strut at the bottom.
      Pinch bolt?
      This is what VIDA states: Wheel Spindle to McPherson Strut 90nm (66ftlbs). That seems pretty stout. That is a 10mm bolt, correct? I've found errors in VIDA before & the torque specs are only in a chart with a description so take this with a grain of salt. 66 is common for a 12mm bolt. A 10mm would be more like 30-33.
      Last edited by pczeilon; 06-11-2013 at 04:17 PM.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    32. #65
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      Yes, I believe it might the pinch bolt. It's at the base of the strut. Mine I am pretty sure was a 15mm. I will double check though, what would that equal around too? 120-130?

    33. #66
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Mine I am pretty sure was a 15mm.
      It's not a 15mm. Size of the shaft, NOT the head.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    34. #67
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      Right, sorry my mistake. Thanks for the help.

    35. #68
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      Drive shaft

      I changed my front drivers side suspension spring today (I plan to change the other side too) and all went well thanks to the excellent help above. That is until I went to drive away and found that the drive shaft is not driving anymore, just quietly clinking away when I let the clutch out
      Something I have done in error or just bad luck and happened while moving the hub about?

      I'm doubly annoyed because this is my first foray into proper mending and my wife thinks I'm daft for not just taking it to a mechanic!

    36. #69
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      You might have disconnected the CV joint.

    37. #70
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      You might have disconnected the CV joint.
      That would make some sense though wouldn't the spline be engaged anyway. I know it slides back an forth to account for suspension movement but can it be that he can put the axle bolt back on and the spline not engage
      I guess a simple way is to see if the wheel spin by freely, lifting one side while the other is on the ground.


      @GrounderS:
      Tell your wife that the rewards of having done something yourself far out weigh the glitches along the way. It's all part of building your life accomplishments. Won't get any from having everything done for you
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

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