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    1. #6756
      Quote Originally Posted by BellevilleV70 View Post
      Looks same from outside, just lip on inside is rolled up almost flat. I just watched a bunch of vids on youtube to get an idea on how to do it. Wasn't as bad as I thought.
      Is there any exposed metal without the plastic piece protecting the paint?
      Any cracking of the paint from rolling the fender?

      Wished I lived in So Cal, I see there's some fender experts over in the Polestar scene down there)

      Thanks!

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    3. #6757
      Junior Member T6dude's Avatar
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      Friday I took my car in to get the recall done for the door latches and was given an option of which loaner I wanted, the XC60, XC90 or "that sporty one over there". Went with the sporty V60 CC T5 and was impressed. Yes, it didn't have the power or handling of my R-Design, but it was enjoyable and I loved the wagon part of it. Liked the instrument panel and center display although thought it was a lot of steps to get the forward camera on as compared to the one button on my car.

      Had them do a realignment while there since I've hit a few big potholes so wanted to make sure they were tracking right. Went to pick up my car in the afternoon and was told that the front passenger window had slid down the track while doing the repairs and had scratched my tint. But before I had time to register that, he said they had re-tinted the window and I was good to go. Looks good and matches very well with the rest of the windows so not a problem.

      Another bonus is my auto lock/unlock handle on my driver side rear door works much better now. It would open but not lock before, but now it works as it should, so overall it was a good day.
      Current: 2012 S60 R Design, P* tune - "Speedy Rabbit" (Named by granddaughter after a spirited run)
      Traded: 1999 S80 T-6 - "Brit"
      Traded: 1983 850 GLT - "Samson"

    4. #6758
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by emgrock1 View Post
      https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-fe...RoC06cQAvD_BwE


      This is the tool to use if you're rolling fenders. There are other methods but if you've got a nice car it's not worth risking denting the body side, IMO. No idea how this guy did it but it sounds like he didn't use this tool..

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      ??? Ya I took a hammer and beat the fenders in on my car. Of course I used the tool.
      2002 V70 2.4T - EST exhaust/Elbrus 18x8s/Conti DW/Eibach/Koni FSD/Polk Audio/Boston Acoustics/Infinity -beater duty now
      2013 XC60 T6R-design- IPD exhaust- Ice White
      2015.5 V60 Polestar- Black- do88/TDI/GFB/APATuned DownPipe/AirBox Mods/Elevate rear bar [email protected] mph
      Mopar Tech

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    6. #6759
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by volvos70turbo35 View Post
      Is there any exposed metal without the plastic piece protecting the paint?
      Any cracking of the paint from rolling the fender?

      Wished I lived in So Cal, I see there's some fender experts over in the Polestar scene down there)

      Thanks!
      Well where the plastic was covering the lip, that part is rolled up now. Trimming the plastic does allow some road debris to get by, but probably not as issue unless you drive on alot of dirt/ or snow covered roads. Mine is a fair weather car no I'm not worried. No cracked paint but was careful and slow and kept heat gun on it, and fender about 150 deg. I used a similar tool to the eastwood, a copy probably that had good reviews. Watch a bunch of vids, gives you a good idea how its done, thats what I did, and this was my first go at it. Went perfect.
      2002 V70 2.4T - EST exhaust/Elbrus 18x8s/Conti DW/Eibach/Koni FSD/Polk Audio/Boston Acoustics/Infinity -beater duty now
      2013 XC60 T6R-design- IPD exhaust- Ice White
      2015.5 V60 Polestar- Black- do88/TDI/GFB/APATuned DownPipe/AirBox Mods/Elevate rear bar [email protected] mph
      Mopar Tech

    7. #6760
      Thanks. Tempting to have them rolled. May need to do that unless I find the perfect height and tire combo that lets me run close to flush without rubbing

    8. #6761
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      Still waiting on bolts from Tasca to do my suspension....................................
      Did my first oil change myself after reading up on the T5 Drive-E piston ring issue. I got the Liquimolly 0w-20 kit from FCPEuro and a Fumoto drain valve with the extension and right angle bit. Oil shot out a lot further than I was expecting taking off the original drain plug. It made a decent mess as it completely splashed off the top of the oil drain pan I had. The Fumoto valve should make this significantly less messy in the future. I cut a small bit out of the skid plate (I have the cardboardy-felt stock one) to access the oil valve. I wasn't sure if I really wanted to cut a big circle out to allow me to do a full oil change without needing to take the skid plate off. I will figure it out in 5,000 miles I guess.
      For those that may be wondering, you need the extension on the Futomot valve as the valve "handle" hits the oil pan when you try to screw it on. Also, it ends up tightened down so that the valve "handle" is pointing towards the ground, meaning it sticks down just a tiny bit below the bottom of the oil pan.



      Last edited by thebobwiley; 06-23-2020 at 11:53 PM.
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    9. #6762
      Junior Member nuge's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by volvos70turbo35 View Post
      Thanks. Tempting to have them rolled. May need to do that unless I find the perfect height and tire combo that lets me run close to flush without rubbing
      After watching some of the videos, now I'm thinking that cutting the fender instead of rolling it might be the best scenario. You get more clearance so the tire can sit closer to the fender for a more flush look.

      Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
      2018 Volvo V60 Polestar
      2015 Audi Allroad

    10. #6763
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nuge View Post
      After watching some of the videos, now I'm thinking that cutting the fender instead of rolling it might be the best scenario. You get more clearance so the tire can sit closer to the fender for a more flush look.

      Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
      Thats a bad idea...you end up with a sharp edge , and a bare edge that can rust. And its going to be very weak. The back is actually inner and outer spot welded together.....so you will be cutting apart the removing spot welds. If you take your time and roll it well, its quite thin anyway
      2002 V70 2.4T - EST exhaust/Elbrus 18x8s/Conti DW/Eibach/Koni FSD/Polk Audio/Boston Acoustics/Infinity -beater duty now
      2013 XC60 T6R-design- IPD exhaust- Ice White
      2015.5 V60 Polestar- Black- do88/TDI/GFB/APATuned DownPipe/AirBox Mods/Elevate rear bar [email protected] mph
      Mopar Tech

    11. #6764
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      Not so much what did I do, but picked up these...
      Attached Images Attached Images

    12. #6765
      Junior Member Tonyfr's Avatar
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      Finally drove my S60 after weeks of sitting in the garage. I had to dig it out though.
      Attached Images Attached Images
      2013 Volvo S60 T5 - Black Stone/Black
      1996 Volvo 850 R - Black/Black
      2008 Dodge Ram 1500 - Black/Grey
      2009 BMW K1300 GT
      1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo

      Past:
      1999 Volvo V70 T5A - Polar White/Gobi
      1999 Porsche Carrera C2 Aero - Glacier White/Graphite Grey
      1997 Porsche Carrera Cabriolet - Black/Black/Black
      1983 Porsche Carrera - Dolomite Grey/Champagne

    13. #6766
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      Finally got my new DO88 intercooler installed. Waiting on the 3.5" DP from 8EightFab then I will have it tuned and be back with results! This intercooler is well worth upgrading by the way. You won't be disappointed. Also, the only thing hard about the install was reaching the screws on the hose clamps to take the oem intercooler off. I had to remove the crash bar in order to get to them. Be sure to put the new hose clamps on in a way you can access the screw easier if you ever need to mess with it again.

      [IMG][/IMG]

    14. #6767
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by abcdefghii View Post
      Not so much what did I do, but picked up these...
      Nice. I posted in here after getting the 850 race car, but I haven't been able to find the Superfast V60 yet (to be fair, I've only checked 2 places). Where did you find it?
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    15. #6768
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      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      Nice. I posted in here after getting the 850 race car, but I haven't been able to find the Superfast V60 yet (to be fair, I've only checked 2 places). Where did you find it?
      I found it in Target, my 5 year old was looking at toys and so i decided to see if they had any Volvos. They only had 1 of each, so grabbed them both. The Superfast one cost 5 times what the 850 did, bit stupid considering fundamentally the only difference is one has an extra box in the packaging, but, i had to grab it.

    16. #6769
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      I just wanted to drop a quick update. After changing my oil at about 7,500 miles (will be doing it every 5,000 myself from now on) and going from Castrol 5w-30 to Liquimolly 0w-20 Volvo Spec, the engine feels SIGNIFICANTLY smoother. I recently put in the race (black) powerflex torque bushing and had a lot of vibration, mainly in reverse which was almost entirely gone immediately after the oil change. I did not know if it possibly could have been from having the car jacked up or anything like that, but it is still significantly smoother feeling in drive and especially reverse. Oil did not look terrible when I drained it, but was definitely used. Still waiting to hear from Tasca about bolts I ordered to FINALLY get my suspension changed out (currently 4 months later than I planned on doing it). I think I just need to order the parts from one of the volvo parts web stores and try to cancel the Tasca order. I am absolutely tired of waiting to get this suspension work done.
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    17. #6770
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      Put in a new air filter, the old one looked pretty much new, but since I have no clue when it was last changed by the previous owner, I figured it was about time to change it. Will likely tackle the cabin filter at some point soon, that looks to be a pain in the ass of a job from everything I have seen, especially just to change a filter. Almost time for the first oil change since I bought it as well!

    18. #6771
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      It takes less than 2 minutes to replace a cabin air filter. I'm not joking. It don't see how others thing it's difficult. It just in a weird spot.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    19. #6772
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      I'm sure you're right, I've had that lower cover off a couple times (removing glovebox) and could see where the cabin filter goes.

    20. #6773
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      2 minutes to replace the cabin air filter?!? I would say at least 10 minutes if you really don't care about bending stuff out of the way and really jamming the filter in there. The length of the filter means it has to bend right at the entrance lip in order to get into the "rails" correctly for it to slide in. Too me about 15 minutes wiggling it and trying to get the bend just right so it would start to slide in. I could probably do it faster now that i know how it is supposed to go in, but 2 minutes is definitely a stretch I would say. Definitely worth the cost saving over the dealership.

      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    21. #6774
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by thebobwiley View Post
      2 minutes to replace the cabin air filter?!? I would say at least 10 minutes if you really don't care about bending stuff out of the way and really jamming the filter in there. The length of the filter means it has to bend right at the entrance lip in order to get into the "rails" correctly for it to slide in. Too me about 15 minutes wiggling it and trying to get the bend just right so it would start to slide in. I could probably do it faster now that i know how it is supposed to go in, but 2 minutes is definitely a stretch I would say. Definitely worth the cost saving over the dealership.

      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
      What's there to bend (besides your back)?

      I'm serious. In the time it takes to drain the oil out of the block (which is typically when I do it), I fold the carpet over, pull the junction box away and take the filter housing cover off, out with old and in with new filter. You pre-warp the filter a bit so that it slides right in the rails.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    22. #6775
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      New Avant Garde M580 19x8.5 Wheels to go along with a new set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4s tires.

      [IMG][/IMG]

    23. #6776
      Junior Member JeffCooper63's Avatar
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      Fitted door side step (puddle) LED lights to rear doors - one up on volvo !!
      V60 2015.5 TwinEngine PHEV (UK trim SE LUX NAV)

    24. #6777
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      I sent the last 2 days installing my Heico suspension as well as new end links, new outer tie rods, and replacing brake fluid. Unfortunately, I have had massive problems with the front left which means the car is still not done. I hit a massive pothole that bent a rim on that corner about a year ago. I am not sure if it is the cause, but my other tie rod to knuckle bolt was completely seized and unable to be removed. I had to cut it off with a hacksaw. Then I tried removing the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod, and it too was impossible to move. With some extreme leverage, I was able to turn the locking nut back about 2 threads before it became jammed. I was still unable to turn the outer tie rod and ended up stripping all the flat parts off the inner tie rod and rounding off the teeth on my vise grips. I'm currently waiting on my new inner tie rod kit to ship and i hope it will come off the steering rack easily.

      The front strut replacement was a bit of a bear, but I was able to do it with just the front on Jack stands and did not end up removing the ball joint. The real trick is to leave a screw in the top of the strut so that the wheel hub will pull away from the strut. Have someone stand on the top of the wheel hub just in front of the strut mount to push it down. With the sway bar and tie rod removed it will drop very far. It went almost all the way to the ground and was jacked up maybe 2 ft. Another person then needs to guide the hub backward (or forward as I did the second time) and rotate it towards the ground. The strut should just pop right out and remain suspended by the bolt at the top.

      Putting it back in was shockingly easy the second time. I first mannered it up into the top mount and put 1 bolt in loosely. Then I had my helper stand on the top of the hub again but this time I angled the strut home towards the front of the car. Once I got it around their foot and aligned with the hole, I rotated the hub back to vertical and the strut just popped right in. I recommend applying anti-seize to the part that slides into the hub, really lubed it right up for easy slide action. Also, you absolutely need something jammed into the back where the strut hole is split to keep it slot open enough for the strut to slide in and out.

      Honestly, if not for the tie rod issues and then spending 3 hours trying to locate a pass-thru socket set in stock on my side of town, the total job is probably a day's worth of work if you go slow and steady. The rear shock and spring are insanely easy to replace. To get the rear spring out, just remove the outer, lower control arm bolt.
      Hopefully, I can get the new parts quickly and test my car out soon!


      EDIT: referenced the wrong bolt and typing errors.

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      Last edited by thebobwiley; Yesterday at 10:14 AM.
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

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