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    1. #6686
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
      Actually, in this case not cheaper. A few folks have asked this question and its a very reasonable question.

      When we were looking to get my son a Volvo, this S60CC was close to $7k less than comparable 5cyl S60 T5 AWD Platinums (the few that were out there) and closer to $10k less than a R-Design Platinum. This S60 was on the dealer's lot for more than 60 days and we got a really good deal with the CPO warranty. With parts and labor to install the suspension swap was about $1400. I would have preferred to start with a R-Design but for the price we have a unique 1 of 1 S60 with gloss black inlays and the climate package. The 5cyl has plenty of power and it sounds great with the Borla exhaust.

      Adding flares to a regular S60 is possible. It would require shaving the tabs off the flares and doube-sided taping them to the car.
      The numbers don't lie. Have fun with it. Your son ought to be very psyched to have such a nice car.
      Logan

      2015 S60 T6 AWD R-Design Polestar
      2008 S40 2.4i - hers

      Former:

      2013 C30 Polestar Limited Edition #87/250 | 2005 V50 T5 AWD | 1995 Yellow 850 T5-R

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    3. #6687
      Junior Member ckmack's Avatar
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      CPO covered two faulty fuel injectors in my V60 today after I threw a CEL on my way to the dealership to pick up the Flash Green.

      Also purchased F + R mud flaps and a bumper protector
      Daily Driver: 2017 V60 T6 R-Design Bursting Blue / Black, 41k, "Bertie"
      Garage Queen: 1995 850 T-5R sedan Cream Yellow / Black, 97k, "Daisy"
      Garage Queen: 1995 850 T-5R estate Cream Yellow / Black, 287k, "Daisy2"
      Past: 2005 V70R Flash Green / Nordkap, 86k, "Flash"
      Past: 2005 S60R Black Sapphire / Nordkap, 88k, "Peggy"
      Past: 2000 V70R Laser Blue / Black, 174k, "Vicky"
      Past: 2000 S70 GLT SE Moondust / Beige, 175k, "Sandy"
      Past: 2013 S60 T6 R-Design Rebel Blue / Black, 88k, "Roxy"
      Past :2006 XC70 AWD Willow Green / Beige, 148k, "XC"

    4. #6688
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      Quote Originally Posted by TheodorKalin View Post
      When i saw this photo I though you had crunched it. The reflections on the bonnet look like its crumpled.

      Pleased it isnt.

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    6. #6689
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      Got my knock-off RD pedals in the mail. Brake pedal actually has VOLVO logo molded into the rubber on the backside, seems to be a legit RD brake pedal? Accelerator pedal has worse rubber molding on the backside, no logo, and some 3m tape, but otherwise looks just like the real pedal. 8 rubber treads and all. (Most of the knock offs only have 7 rubber treads on the accelerator pedal)

      Good for at least 5hp. $30 from auto-superman on ebay. Comes from China.


      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
      Last edited by thebobwiley; 06-23-2020 at 11:19 PM.
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    7. #6690
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      Finally the stars aligned and I was able to get the exhaust made.

      Total cost for the shop to fab it up with flanges and stainless steel mandrel bent tubing was $420. I provided tips, resonator and muffler at $290 for a grand total of $710.

      Yes the welds are gross looking but he followed all the instructions I gave and despite the globs of weld, the fitment is very nice.

      The important bit is really the sound, though. Initially, it was REALLY quiet. Like, quieter than stock. See link for first day sound.

      After about a days worth of driving, the sound increased a lot. Cold starts are louder but not so loud that my neighbors get upset and once warm it sounds very throaty with minimal rasp. I think as the muffler gets packed more the sound will change, though.

      It does have a bit of drone at from 2-2500rpm, so around 70-75mph. 80 its not bad. If it were my daily driver it might get a bit annoying, though.

      Included a video I threw together.

      Also bought winglets. Front bumper and winglets coming off soon for rock chip repair and paint.


      https://youtu.be/mzqWCghxmIY

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      2015 V60 R-Design - Onyx Black Metallic / Off Black
      2004 Mazda 6s Touring - 3.0 V6 / Manual
      2008 Suzuki SV650 - Pearl Novelty Black
      2002 SVT Focus Turbo - Dead and gone

    8. #6691
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      Quote Originally Posted by emgrock1 View Post
      Finally the stars aligned and I was able to get the exhaust made.

      Total cost for the shop to fab it up with flanges and stainless steel mandrel bent tubing was $420. I provided tips, resonator and muffler at $290 for a grand total of $710.

      Yes the welds are gross looking but he followed all the instructions I gave and despite the globs of weld, the fitment is very nice.

      The important bit is really the sound, though. Initially, it was REALLY quiet. Like, quieter than stock. See link for first day sound.

      After about a days worth of driving, the sound increased a lot. Cold starts are louder but not so loud that my neighbors get upset and once warm it sounds very throaty with minimal rasp. I think as the muffler gets packed more the sound will change, though.

      It does have a bit of drone at from 2-2500rpm, so around 70-75mph. 80 its not bad. If it were my daily driver it might get a bit annoying, though.

      Included a video I threw together.

      Also bought winglets. Front bumper and winglets coming off soon for rock chip repair and paint.


      https://youtu.be/mzqWCghxmIY

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      Send me a link for your resonator. I’m getting KT4 down pipe and my Indy shop will add 3 inch straight pipe cat back to my magna flow muffler.



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    9. #6692
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      Quote Originally Posted by anewman644 View Post
      Send me a link for your resonator. I’m getting KT4 down pipe and my Indy shop will add 3 inch straight pipe cat back to my magna flow muffler.



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Borla Bottle Resonator 400939

      Magnaflow Rear Muffler 12267

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      2015 V60 R-Design - Onyx Black Metallic / Off Black
      2004 Mazda 6s Touring - 3.0 V6 / Manual
      2008 Suzuki SV650 - Pearl Novelty Black
      2002 SVT Focus Turbo - Dead and gone

    10. #6693
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      The exhaust looks good. I know you said ignore the welds but as a welder myself I’d be embarrassed if that left my shop looking like that


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    11. #6694
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      Quote Originally Posted by limey View Post
      The exhaust looks good. I know you said ignore the welds but as a welder myself I’d be embarrassed if that left my shop looking like that


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      Yeah. I've done a fair amount of welding myself but am by no means a good welder BUT I could definitely do a better job... I'm happy with it either way.

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      2015 V60 R-Design - Onyx Black Metallic / Off Black
      2004 Mazda 6s Touring - 3.0 V6 / Manual
      2008 Suzuki SV650 - Pearl Novelty Black
      2002 SVT Focus Turbo - Dead and gone

    12. #6695
      It sounds great! Excellent tone and doesn’t sound raspy. It could use just a little more bite, however. You’re still using the stock downpipe, correct? An aftermarket downpipe would make it louder but I think it would sound even better. As it stands, it sounds much like my stock catback with the Ferrita downpipe which on its own really opened up the exhaust note and gave it some much needed sharpness at idle and light throttle and volume at WOT. I think it would make your good sounding exhaust sound even better if you were ok with a little extra volume. Did you notice an improvement in pull and throttle response? I saw a cutaway of the stock catback online yesterday and it looks quite restrictive so I’d imagine this setup flows much better. I’d attribute your change in sound after driving it a bit to your fuel trims adjusting to the added flow by adding more fuel which tends to make the car sound louder and meaner.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    13. #6696
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bunnspeed View Post
      It sounds great! Excellent tone and doesn’t sound raspy. It could use just a little more bite, however. You’re still using the stock downpipe, correct? An aftermarket downpipe would make it louder but I think it would sound even better. As it stands, it sounds much like my stock catback with the Ferrita downpipe which on its own really opened up the exhaust note and gave it some much needed sharpness at idle and light throttle and volume at WOT. I think it would make your good sounding exhaust sound even better if you were ok with a little extra volume. Did you notice an improvement in pull and throttle response? I saw a cutaway of the stock catback online yesterday and it looks quite restrictive so I’d imagine this setup flows much better. I’d attribute your change in sound after driving it a bit to your fuel trims adjusting to the added flow by adding more fuel which tends to make the car sound louder and meaner.
      Stock downpipe, yeah. Car is a CPO so I'm waiting for that to run out before I modify the after treatment system. With a downpipe the sound will be much more aggressive for sure. Again, I will probably make one rather than buy one.

      The biggest surprise for me is the performance improvements after the exhaust. It's very surprising to me how much the exhaust necks down right after the downpipe. It goes from (2) 2 1/4" pipes to (2) 1 3/4" pipes just before the first resonator.

      The engine feels like it breathes easier, which is no surprise considering it was basically trying to breathe through a straw... No improvement really in throttle response or low end torque, the big difference is in mid / top end power.

      Prior to the exhaust installation the things I've changed were, TDI box and pod filter / intake resonator delete. The fastest 0-60 I was able to achieve was 5.4 seconds. While this is measuring with a GPS phone app, the time was repeatable. Wether or not it was actually 5.4 seconds is debatable, its just my baseline.

      Post exhaust install I retested it a few times. I've consistently run mid 4 seconds. I've seen 4.3 seconds and up to 4.6 seconds after quite a bit of heavy foot driving.

      For further validation of the app, I ran my dad's focus RS (with launch control) with my timer and clocked consistent 4.6 second 0-60's which aligns with journalists reported times.

      Long winded response... Sorry about that. I'm just very surprised as I honestly didn't expect anything in terms of performance, I really just wanted some volume!


      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      2015 V60 R-Design - Onyx Black Metallic / Off Black
      2004 Mazda 6s Touring - 3.0 V6 / Manual
      2008 Suzuki SV650 - Pearl Novelty Black
      2002 SVT Focus Turbo - Dead and gone

    14. #6697
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      emgrock1 I really like the tone of it! One a side note, I always wonder why the cat's exits double at the flange only to come back to a single pipe. Even aftermaket downpipes are done like this... why ?

    15. #6698
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      Quote Originally Posted by saucisse View Post
      emgrock1 I really like the tone of it! One a side note, I always wonder why the cat's exits double at the flange only to come back to a single pipe. Even aftermaket downpipes are done like this... why ?
      I think it's to package the upstream muffler / resonator. The packaging envelope does not allow for much in the way of height due to the prop shaft. If you run a 3" pipe through there though, there's no issue.

      I'll be removing the two tube setup when I have the downpipe made.

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
      2015 V60 R-Design - Onyx Black Metallic / Off Black
      2004 Mazda 6s Touring - 3.0 V6 / Manual
      2008 Suzuki SV650 - Pearl Novelty Black
      2002 SVT Focus Turbo - Dead and gone

    16. #6699
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      Talking

      For the last week I have been super cleaning my engine bay! I tried to follow the guide here.







      Entire album can be found here! Let me know if you're having trouble viewing anything.

      Some notes if anyone else wants to attempt this:
      • Even in warm weather, having a dryer like the Sidekick is almost essential
      • The video I shared above claims this takes a few hours, but in-between work and everything else the battery was out of my car for almost a week
      • Detailing the aluminum takes forever and almost isn't worth it
      • Just using a simple plastic restorer compound will get you 90% of the way there


      If anyone wants to know anything else just ask!
      Last edited by MDB; 06-02-2020 at 08:00 AM. Reason: removing broken images

    17. #6700
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      Looks good, I hate how dusty my engine can look so may clean it up at some point. Might just do the plastic restorer though if it gets 90% of the way, I don't need it to look like a show engine, just not completely dirty!

    18. #6701
      Administrator chris@swedespeed's Avatar
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      Enjoying the S60CC's new suspension setup:

      2016 V60CC Platinum
      2016 S60CC Platinum
      2017 XC90 Momentum Plus (family)

      Previous:
      2017 S90 Inscription T6 AWD, 2019 XC40 R-Design T5 AWD, 2017 V90 Cross Country T6 AWD , 2018 V60 Polestar #103/1500, 2016 XC90 R-Design, 2013 C30 Polestar #141/250,2015.5 V60 R-Design,1998 V70 T5M, 1999 S70 GLT, 2000 V70R, 2004 V70R, 2006 V70R Sonic Blue, 2006 V70R Electric Silver, 2007 V70R Passion Red, 2003 XC90 2.5T, 2007 XC90 V8 Sport Electric Silver, 2007 XC90 Sport V8, Passion Red

    19. #6702
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      Well was woken up at 4:15am to my car alarm going off. Not the first time this has happened. I think it's due to the faulty door latches or hood latch because no one was trying to break in and I couldn't get the confirmation beep to happen after I turned the alarm off (but the mirrors folded in). I have a list of other things to bring it in for too. Thank goodness for that 100k CPO warranty

      Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
      2015 Crystal White Pearl S60 T6 R-Design
      KPAX Catback Exhaust
      Powerflex Torque Rod Insert
      IPD Rear Sway Bar and Endlinks
      18" Polestar Replicas

    20. #6703
      Member PureDrive07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by willkoch1990 View Post
      Well was woken up at 4:15am to my car alarm going off. Not the first time this has happened. I think it's due to the faulty door latches or hood latch because no one was trying to break in and I couldn't get the confirmation beep to happen after I turned the alarm off (but the mirrors folded in). I have a list of other things to bring it in for too. Thank goodness for that 100k CPO warranty

      Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
      Its the Hood Latch Sensor, happened on my 2015 V60RD in the middle of the night as well. I got it replaced under CPO.
      2015 V60 T6 AWD R-Design - Passion Red/Off Black [HIS] - Platinum/Tech/Climate/19" IxionII, Polestar Winglets, IPD Catback Exhaust, IPD Rear Sway Bar, 15mm Spacers and KN Filter.
      2019 XC60 T6 AWD Inscription - Crystal White/Charcoal [HERS] - Nappa Leather w/Massage/Advanced/Heated Steering & Rear Seats/Sport Steering Wheel & Charcoal Headliner/20" Wheels/RD Sport Pedals
      ​Past: 1994 940Turbo/2004 S40LSE/2007 S60R/2010 Mazda 3/2012 S60RD/2013 S60T5AWD/2016 XC60T6AWD

    21. #6704
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      @[email protected], what suspension setup is that? Looks good.

      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    22. #6705
      Administrator chris@swedespeed's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by thebobwiley View Post
      @[email protected], what suspension setup is that? Looks good.

      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

      Stock Sport suspension (R-Design / Dynamic / Sport springs) with Koni Active struts and shocks.
      2016 V60CC Platinum
      2016 S60CC Platinum
      2017 XC90 Momentum Plus (family)

      Previous:
      2017 S90 Inscription T6 AWD, 2019 XC40 R-Design T5 AWD, 2017 V90 Cross Country T6 AWD , 2018 V60 Polestar #103/1500, 2016 XC90 R-Design, 2013 C30 Polestar #141/250,2015.5 V60 R-Design,1998 V70 T5M, 1999 S70 GLT, 2000 V70R, 2004 V70R, 2006 V70R Sonic Blue, 2006 V70R Electric Silver, 2007 V70R Passion Red, 2003 XC90 2.5T, 2007 XC90 V8 Sport Electric Silver, 2007 XC90 Sport V8, Passion Red

    23. #6706
      Member PureDrive07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MDB View Post
      For the last week I have been super cleaning my engine bay! I tried to follow the guide here.







      Entire album can be found here! Let me know if you're having trouble viewing anything.

      Some notes if anyone else wants to attempt this:
      • Even in warm weather, having a dryer like the Sidekick is almost essential
      • The video I shared above claims this takes a few hours, but in-between work and everything else the battery was out of my car for almost a week
      • Detailing the aluminum takes forever and almost isn't worth it
      • Just using a simple plastic restorer compound will get you 90% of the way there


      If anyone wants to know anything else just ask!
      Looks Great! I always like to see a clean engine bay. A good product that comes in handy for those tough to reach places as well shine up the black plastics in the engine is Adams Polishes In and Out Spray, I love using this stuff on detail jobs.
      2015 V60 T6 AWD R-Design - Passion Red/Off Black [HIS] - Platinum/Tech/Climate/19" IxionII, Polestar Winglets, IPD Catback Exhaust, IPD Rear Sway Bar, 15mm Spacers and KN Filter.
      2019 XC60 T6 AWD Inscription - Crystal White/Charcoal [HERS] - Nappa Leather w/Massage/Advanced/Heated Steering & Rear Seats/Sport Steering Wheel & Charcoal Headliner/20" Wheels/RD Sport Pedals
      ​Past: 1994 940Turbo/2004 S40LSE/2007 S60R/2010 Mazda 3/2012 S60RD/2013 S60T5AWD/2016 XC60T6AWD

    24. #6707
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      Took my car to the dealer yesterday for an issue with my navigation. Update wouldn't take, got stuck on "navigation is starting" screen. After 2 hours of diagnostics and getting on the phone with global support, they said they can't figure it out and have ordered me a new IHU (Infotainment Head Unit, i.e., radio). They'll let me know when it's received, so looks like a 3rd trip to the dealer in 2 weeks for me (30k service last week; follow-up trip yesterday; new IHU install next week).

      Anyone else had this happen? Hoping the IHU replacement fixes it. It's not the easiest navi system to use, but I do appreciate being able to refer to the map not infrequently, as it's more convenient and safer than pulling up Google Maps on my phone in the absence of Android Auto.
      2018 V60 T5 Dynamic AWD, Osmium Grey Metallic
      Previous cars: 2003 Infiniti I35, 2003 VW Passat GLX Variant, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Honda Accord LX

    25. #6708
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      c3 Rimless Rearview Mirror

      Quote Originally Posted by abcdefghii View Post
      Looks good. . .
      Quote Originally Posted by PureDrive07 View Post
      Looks Great!
      Thanks!

      Quote Originally Posted by PureDrive07 View Post
      A good product . . . is Adams Polishes In and Out Spray . . .
      I'll check it out before I detail next.



      Also installed a rimless rearview mirror I got for cheap:



      Install instructions are hard to come across so I just:

      1. pulled the plastic City Safety cover off by separating the two interlocking pieces along the seams found near the mirror
      2. unplugged the old mirror with compass
      3. twisted counterclockwise slightly and pulled

      I don't know if that's the best way to do it, and I was really scared I was going to destroy the windshield in the process: the mirror attaches to the glass via a circular mount; the mirror has 3 hard plastic or metal tabs on it that surround this circular mount if you press hard enough.

    26. #6709
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      Quote Originally Posted by MDB View Post
      Thanks!



      I'll check it out before I detail next.



      Also installed a rimless rearview mirror I got for cheap:



      Install instructions are hard to come across so I just:

      1. pulled the plastic City Safety cover off by separating the two interlocking pieces along the seams found near the mirror
      2. unplugged the old mirror with compass
      3. twisted counterclockwise slightly and pulled

      I don't know if that's the best way to do it, and I was really scared I was going to destroy the windshield in the process: the mirror attaches to the glass via a circular mount; the mirror has 3 hard plastic or metal tabs on it that surround this circular mount if you press hard enough.
      Is this plug and play for the compass to work, or did you need to reprogram? Also, thoughts on disconnecting the battery prior to doing this upgrade?
      1998 Volvo C70 - Mystic Silver/Charcoal, Stage III
      2007 Volvo S60r - Electric Silver/Nordkap - SOLD, and Missed.
      2012 Volvo S60 T5 - Caspian Blue/Off-black

    27. #6710
      Junior Member rallyr32's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PM View Post
      Is this plug and play for the compass to work, or did you need to reprogram? Also, thoughts on disconnecting the battery prior to doing this upgrade?
      This got me curious since I have never used the compass in my 2017 S60 and just assumed the rimless mirrors did away with it. After consulting my manual, I not only learned how to turn it back on, but also how to calibrate it! RTFM wins again XD

      "To switch the compass on/off use a pen, paperclip or similar object and press in the button on the underside of the mirror. North America is divided into 15 magnetic zones and the compass will need to be calibrated if the vehicle is driven into a new one (see the magnetic zones on the map in the following section "Selecting a magnetic zone"). To do so:

      1. Stop the vehicle in a large open area, safely out of traffic and away from steel structures and high-tension electrical wires.

      2. Start the vehicle. NOTE For best calibration results, switch off all electrical equipment in the vehicle (climate system, windshield wipers, audio system, etc.) and make sure that all doors are closed. Calibration may not succeed or be incorrect if the vehicle's electrical equipment is not switched off.

      3. Using a pen, paperclip or similar object, press and hold the button on the underside of mirror for approx. 6 seconds until C is displayed in the mirror.

      4. Press and hold the button for 3 seconds until the number of the current magnetic zone is displayed.

      5. Press the button repeatedly until the number of the desired magnetic zone (1-15) is displayed. See the magnetic zones on the map in the following section "Selecting a magnetic zone").

      6. Wait until C is again displayed in the mirror.

      7. Drive slowly in a circle at a speed of no more than 6 mph (10 km/h) until a direction is displayed. This indicates that calibration is complete.

      8. Drive around in a circle an additional two times to fine-tune the calibration.

      9. Vehicles with an electrically heated windshield:* if C is displayed when the heating function is activated, perform step 7 with the heating function on. See also Max. defroster and electrically heated windshield* (p. 128) for additional information about the heated windshield. Repeat the calibration procedure if necessary.

      To select a magnetic zone...

      The earth is divided into 15 magnetic zones. The correct zone must be selected for the compass to work correctly.

      1. Put the ignition in mode II.

      2. Using a pen or similar object, press and hold the button on the rear side of mirror for at least 3 seconds. The number for the current area will be shown.

      3. Press the button repeatedly until the number for the required geographic area (1 – 15) is shown.

      4. The display will revert to showing the compass direction after several seconds.

      Voila! I think brain surgery is easier...
      Last edited by rallyr32; 06-05-2020 at 12:48 PM.
      2017 S60 T6 R-Design (His) - do88 FMIC | 2013 XC60 T6 (Hers) - IPD skidplate | 2012 S60 T6 R-Design - mods galore | 2006 XC90 2.5T AWD | 2000 S40 1.9T

    28. #6711
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
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      35
      Installed PowerFlex Race (black) torque mount bushing. I was trying to reduce some of the slop I have been feeling from the shifts, and it feels a bit tighter, however the vibration in drive/reverse is about twice as high as stock. Looking at the mount while shifting from neutral to drive/reverse shows quite a bit of vibration from the engine. I really should have made a comparison of before/after. I tightened both bolts on the torque mount while the car was in drive and it reduced the vibration a little bit, but on a cold start the vibration in the car is at least as twice as much as stock. Driving, there is a little more vibration, but I currently have a bent rim and some other vibration coming from the suspension/steering which hides it at speed. The race version of the bushing may have been a bit too stiff, but I can live with it for now as the suspension/steering vibration I get above 40 mph greatly outweighs the increased engine vibration.

      Installation was relatively simple, but an extra hand makes it a lot easier. You need to unbolt the fluid reservoir next to the torque mount, pull it up and as far forward as possible to access the front bolt on the torque mount. Both the front and rear bolts are a 15mm bolt head, torqued to 81ft/lbs. I lossened the rear bolt and removed the front bolt in order to lift the torque arm up so I could insert the PowerFlex bushing. All the while I had a helper hold the fluid resevoir out of the way, but it is doable by yourself. I then had my helper put the car in drive and hold the brake while I retightened both bolts (not doable by yourself). I might recomend the "street" version of the bushing or the IPD torque mount based on the increased vibration, but I don't know just how much more vibration there is between this "race" variant and those offerings.

      FYI the front bolt is HOT if the car has been recently driven. Use some gloves or paper towels to pull it out. I definitely didn't burn my hand a little when I grabbed it. :\
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    29. #6712
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Lakes Region NH
      Posts
      7,034
      Quote Originally Posted by thebobwiley View Post
      Installed PowerFlex Race (black) torque mount bushing. I was trying to reduce some of the slop I have been feeling from the shifts, and it feels a bit tighter, however the vibration in drive/reverse is about twice as high as stock. Looking at the mount while shifting from neutral to drive/reverse shows quite a bit of vibration from the engine. I really should have made a comparison of before/after. I tightened both bolts on the torque mount while the car was in drive and it reduced the vibration a little bit, but on a cold start the vibration in the car is at least as twice as much as stock. Driving, there is a little more vibration, but I currently have a bent rim and some other vibration coming from the suspension/steering which hides it at speed. The race version of the bushing may have been a bit too stiff, but I can live with it for now as the suspension/steering vibration I get above 40 mph greatly outweighs the increased engine vibration.

      Installation was relatively simple, but an extra hand makes it a lot easier. You need to unbolt the fluid reservoir next to the torque mount, pull it up and as far forward as possible to access the front bolt on the torque mount. Both the front and rear bolts are a 15mm bolt head, torqued to 81ft/lbs. I lossened the rear bolt and removed the front bolt in order to lift the torque arm up so I could insert the PowerFlex bushing. All the while I had a helper hold the fluid resevoir out of the way, but it is doable by yourself. I then had my helper put the car in drive and hold the brake while I retightened both bolts (not doable by yourself). I might recomend the "street" version of the bushing or the IPD torque mount based on the increased vibration, but I don't know just how much more vibration there is between this "race" variant and those offerings.

      FYI the front bolt is HOT if the car has been recently driven. Use some gloves or paper towels to pull it out. I definitely didn't burn my hand a little when I grabbed it. :\
      A fair number of people have wished they had bought the yellow instead of black bushing for this very reason. I have a yellow insert and noticed an improvement without additional vibrations.
      Logan

      2015 S60 T6 AWD R-Design Polestar
      2008 S40 2.4i - hers

      Former:

      2013 C30 Polestar Limited Edition #87/250 | 2005 V50 T5 AWD | 1995 Yellow 850 T5-R

    30. #6713
      Quote Originally Posted by thebobwiley View Post
      Installed PowerFlex Race (black) torque mount bushing. I was trying to reduce some of the slop I have been feeling from the shifts, and it feels a bit tighter, however the vibration in drive/reverse is about twice as high as stock. Looking at the mount while shifting from neutral to drive/reverse shows quite a bit of vibration from the engine. I really should have made a comparison of before/after. I tightened both bolts on the torque mount while the car was in drive and it reduced the vibration a little bit, but on a cold start the vibration in the car is at least as twice as much as stock. Driving, there is a little more vibration, but I currently have a bent rim and some other vibration coming from the suspension/steering which hides it at speed. The race version of the bushing may have been a bit too stiff, but I can live with it for now as the suspension/steering vibration I get above 40 mph greatly outweighs the increased engine vibration.

      Installation was relatively simple, but an extra hand makes it a lot easier. You need to unbolt the fluid reservoir next to the torque mount, pull it up and as far forward as possible to access the front bolt on the torque mount. Both the front and rear bolts are a 15mm bolt head, torqued to 81ft/lbs. I lossened the rear bolt and removed the front bolt in order to lift the torque arm up so I could insert the PowerFlex bushing. All the while I had a helper hold the fluid resevoir out of the way, but it is doable by yourself. I then had my helper put the car in drive and hold the brake while I retightened both bolts (not doable by yourself). I might recomend the "street" version of the bushing or the IPD torque mount based on the increased vibration, but I don't know just how much more vibration there is between this "race" variant and those offerings.

      FYI the front bolt is HOT if the car has been recently driven. Use some gloves or paper towels to pull it out. I definitely didn't burn my hand a little when I grabbed it. :\
      Is yours a T5 or T6? I have a T6 with the black insert and while there was a slight but noticeable difference in NVH, I wouldn’t consider it extreme or uncivilized or even something someone unfamiliar with the car would deem harsh. Results might be different with a T5 motor which might not have the smoothness of the I-6.

      If you are experiencing big vibes with a T6, perhaps something else is amplifying the NVH situation. The mount directly beneath the torque mount on which the tq mount rests is another mount that tends to fail and adds vibration once it does. It is a fluid-filled mount that tends to deflate over time, and may change the way the engine sits ever so slightly, which can add NVH and which might also fail at sufficiently isolating you from what little increase in NVH the new insert creates. I believe that’s what I’m experiencing with my car. I’ve been running the black insert for at least 50k miles but lately at around 85k miles on the clock, my car has started having more NVH intrusion symptomatic of worn mounts, especially at idle. I’m almost positive it’s due to the worn out mount below the tq mount.
      2011 S60 T6 with Polestar tune+TDI-Tuning : KW V3 coilovers : DO88 fmic : Ferrita downpipe : Powerflex "race" torque mount insert
      12.99 at 109mph

    31. #6714
      Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2014
      Location
      Alexandria, VA
      Posts
      1,416
      I had the black and it made the car real annoying. The yellow adds vibration too, but not nearly as irritating. I think I'll probably go back to a new stock part.
      2015.5 V60
      1987 Chevy El Camino
      1983 Chevy Caprice Classic Wagon
      2008 C30 R Design - SOLD
      1998 V70 T5 Manual - SOLD
      1998 V70 - Sold
      1992 244 - Sold
      1987 245 - Sold
      1983 244 - Sold

    32. #6715
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      35
      @Bunnspeed I have a T5. Definitely not as smooth as the 5 cylinders. What is NVH, acronym for some sort of vibration? Also, which mount are you talking about that deflates? I am not super familiar with all the mounts on the P3 platform. On the 4 cyl drive-e the black mount definitely adds vibration, but it is mostly only at idle in drive. I don't know if it is for everyone, especially if your car didn't have vibrations before hand. My bent rim currently makes it a moot point while driving. Car is currently at 38000 miles, I doubt any of the other mounts are going bad at this time, aside from possibly rubber mounts beginning to dry out after 5 years.

      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    33. #6716
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2002
      Location
      Russell Twp, OH
      Posts
      11,730
      NVH = Noise, Vibration, Harshness
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
      Present: '95 854 T-5R, '06 XC70, '15 XC70 T6, '15.5 XC60 T6, '16 V60 P*

    34. #6717
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      35
      Ahhhh, I see. Also, just drive home and made sure to pay attention to the vibration. Cold start (engine was still warm from an earlier drive), lots of vibration. Phone was visibly vibrating on its magnetic arm on the dashboard. Drove about a 1/4 mile to first stop light, stopped, and vibration was pretty much back to stock. I think once the poly warms up it really helps smooth it out, at least in my experience so far. Definitely worth $50 shipped since I really don't need to replace the whole Torque Mont at this time.

      Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

    35. #6718
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      FRANCE
      Posts
      116
      I changed my steering wheel
      IMG_5999.jpg
      2012 V60 D5 AWD 230HP Cosmic White
      upgrade Polestar
      Bodykit + accessories Polestar
      Exhaust Polestar Performance Parts
      20" genuine Polestar / 19" genuine Polestar for winter

      2010 FOCUS RS MK2 White

      Kit Mountune Performance RS500 by Ford UK (Intercooler, airbox, fuel pump, exhaust, ECU remapping)
      Big brakes AP Racing

    36. #6719
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      FRANCE
      Posts
      116
      this weekend I'm installing my new speed selector with the Polestar light knob

      IMG_6043.jpg
      2012 V60 D5 AWD 230HP Cosmic White
      upgrade Polestar
      Bodykit + accessories Polestar
      Exhaust Polestar Performance Parts
      20" genuine Polestar / 19" genuine Polestar for winter

      2010 FOCUS RS MK2 White

      Kit Mountune Performance RS500 by Ford UK (Intercooler, airbox, fuel pump, exhaust, ECU remapping)
      Big brakes AP Racing

    37. #6720
      Junior Member thebobwiley's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      35
      Not trying to break any rules since I didn't technically do anything today; but. Got delivery scheduled Saturday for my Heico SportIV suspension for my 2015.5 V60, finally. I will probably have to wait until next week to work on it however as I took a nasty fall (a leg on the aluminum step stool I was using completely folded in on itself) installing a porch light for a friend and I will definitely be too bruised and sore to tackle the suspension, end links, outer tie-rods, etc. this week. On that note, I can't seem to find solid info on the various bolts for the suspension components, are any of them single-use? I will try and document as much of the work as I can as well as before and after pictures so people will know how the SportIV suspension looks on the V60. Wish me luck, I keeping hear how much of a pain the front end is to replace. :\
      2015.5 V60 T5 Drive-E FWD Premier Plus, Black Ember, Beachwood
      INSTALLED: TDI tuning box, PowerFlex "Race" Torque Bushing, StopTech Street brake pads, 300MM Centric fully coated rotors, 235/40/R18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S, Ebay center console organizer, Fumoto oil drain valve, Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil, IPD end links, Heico SportIV suspension
      FUTURE:

      Formally Owned:
      (Totalled, not by me) 2004 S60 T5 FWD: HD Bilstein suspension, 16" BBS SR wheels, Elevate cat-back exhaust, intake, Alpine speakers, IPD rear sway bar, IPD torque mount, poly subframe bushings, all LED lights

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