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What did you do with your s60/V60 (2011+) today?

1M views 9K replies 645 participants last post by  Fooj 
#1 · (Edited)
Similar threads exist in the other forums. I posted a change to the pre-2011+ group under that thread and it was suggested that I post under the "proper" forum.

While I imagine purchasers of older models will be more likely to modify their cars than those of us who buy brand-new, I've already made some changes to mine.

  1. Dealer installed trailer hitch
  2. LED License Plate Lights. First set would overheat, second set, sold as "License Plate Lights" still working fine (better heat handling?).
  3. Corrected dealer-install of trailer controller power -- was pulling off socket on hot side of fuse box instead of fused side. Added per-spec 40A fuse to that socket
  4. Ham radio antenna attached to trunk lid
  5. Ham radio body, CB radio body, and 12V socket installed in trunk, attached to subframe by existing fuse box. CB radio connected to power but not completely hooked up (fuse from lead pulled). Connected to same 40A circuit.
  6. Installed Proclip dash mount for Garmin Nuvi GPS and Ham radio head (display and mic)
  7. Installed 3-socket 12V socket under waterfall, wired into 12V socket in cup holder (wires all run under center console).
  8. Ran 3 CAT-5 cables from trunk to center console -- hidden in wiring tray and under dash. One used to connect Ham radio body and head. Other 2 for spare or something else (like connecting CB radio body and control/mic when I figure out the connections).
  9. Rotated tires around time of my first scheduled factory maint. visit.

I have pictures of all these changes if anyone cares. I posted those in the other forum.

The latest thing I've done to the car is change the oil. In the past I've changed oil in the 3500-5000 mile range (plan 3500, often don't get to until 5000) using semi-synth in non-turbo vehicles. With my model year, Volvo recommends a 7500 mile interval and semi-synth. For the first visit, I upgraded to full synth (and got a rebate for most of it from Casterol).

I just passed 11,000 so was due for an oil change. My steps:
  1. Car up on ramps, in park, parking brake on, back wheels chocked.
  2. Remove plastic/fiberglass cover plate (6 torx screws).
  3. Replace rear cover plate when I realize the engine was forward (6 torx screws)
  4. Remove plastic/fiberglass front cover plate (10 torx screws).
  5. Remove oil-fill cap.
  6. Remove drain plug and let oil drain.
  7. Realize that engine contains more oil than drain pan will hold (was fine for all other family cars).
  8. Replace oil-fill cap and then drain plug.
  9. Empty dran pan, make note to buy bigger one, resume draining oil (repeat #5&6).
  10. Grab sample of draining oil (more about this later).
  11. Wonder why there is no "crush washer" on the drain plug.
  12. Find crush washer on oil pan, remove.
  13. Put new crush washer on drain plug and install.
  14. Worry that you've stripped the drain plug threads when tightening down.
  15. Realize that a crushing crush washer will feel a lot like a stripped thread and that everything is OK.
  16. Remove filter cover with appropriate socket. No need to remove air inlet if you have knuckle and extension.
  17. Swap out internal filter cartridge and replace white-ish O-ring.
  18. Re-install filter cover and tighten down.
  19. Add oil. You did note the appropriate amount before getting your hands dirty, didn't you? (I did)
  20. Start engine, check for any warning lights, check for leaks, rev engine a bit, check for leaks, shut down engine.
  21. Reattach front bottom cover plate.
  22. Remove chocks, pull car off ramps.
  23. Note mileage, clean and put tools away, dispose of trash and used oil responsibly.
  24. Check oil level after a while to let oil drain out of engine galleries. I did this the next morning as it was dark out. Add oil if needed.

I'm sending an oil sample for testing -- if the results show at least 1/2 life left, I'll feel comfortable with the recommended oil change interval. If not, I'll change more frequently. I look at it as cheap insurance to care for my engine.

My previous car (2001 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC) had 178,000 miles when I got rid of it -- engine was fine. My cousin is driving it now.
 
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#6,139 ·
Wheel change for winter ... Black Polestar!



 
#6,150 ·
After having owned the car for more than 4 years, I just now found out that locking the glove-box puts the car into valet mode and also keeps the trunk from opening.....I guess I should have read the owner's manual more closely, lol
 
#6,161 ·
Merry Christmas Eve to all those who celebrate!

On-topic... installed the ProClip USA S60 Center Dash Mount - they're pricey, but they're made in Sweden and it's definitely the highest-quality mount I have ever used. I think it looks better integrated into the dash. I wish us P3ers would get a Sensus update for Android Auto but alas, this is the next next thing and now I don't have to waste a cupholder for my phone! :p



 
#6,183 ·
Been using it for over a year and love it. Pricey, but worth it.

 
#6,164 ·
Installed my Blendmount recently on the V60. I've had a Blendmount on both of my previous GTI's and it was the first thing I had to get once I got the V60. The installation was straight forward and took about 15 minutes. I think it took longer to remove all the plastic covers around the mirror then the actual installation took.

Here is a picture of the wiring powering the radar detector being tapped into the plug powering the auto dimming mirror. The red (hot) wire is towards the front of the car in case anyone wants to duplicate this in the future.



The next two images are of the final product. I wish the mount were tucked little closer to the mirror and a little further back but happy overall.



 
#6,174 ·
Nice setup! I think I may be buying a V60 in the next week or two and I'm interested in doing a Blendmount for my Uniden R7. Does the plastic housing just pull off with some force or is there a trick? The red wire from the mirror tap simply just plugs into the hole closest to the front of the car, and then the black mirror tap wire plugs in above it? Thanks!
 
#6,165 ·
Just changed my flat with the spare I ordered a month or so ago. Got to make use of the wheel bolt hangers, also. Huge screw stuck in my tire.

Sadly, I forgot to check the tire pressure of the spare, but fortunately that was just a quick trip to the gas station to fill it up (took my portable tire inflator out of my car and forgot to put it back).
 
#6,176 ·
Just had Veredestein Quatrac 5 tires installed this morning. Backstory is that I had an irreparable flat and, rather than trying to find a matching used tire or just replacing 2 tires, I decided to replace all 4. We had about an inch of snow last night and I can say that these definitely have much better snow/slush traction than the OEM contis and the all-season Michelins (Primacy, I think) on my wife's car. Much harder to break loose on snow/slush, whereas the contis readily slid. However, they have also noticeably less traction than dedicated snow tires.

Feels like a good compromise between dedicated snow and all-season tires after all of 2.5 hours of ownership. Time will tell re: wear, traction noise, comfort, etc., but will have a good opportunity this winter to see how they perform with real snow.
 
#6,177 ·
Just had Veredestein Quatrac 5 tires installed this morning. Backstory is that I had an irreparable flat and, rather than trying to find a matching used tire or just replacing 2 tires, I decided to replace all 4. We had about an inch of snow last night and I can say that these definitely have much better snow/slush traction than the OEM contis and the all-season Michelins (Primacy, I think) on my wife's car. Much harder to break loose on snow/slush, whereas the contis readily slid. However, they have also noticeably less traction than dedicated snow tires.

Feels like a good compromise between dedicated snow and all-season tires after all of 2.5 hours of ownership. Time will tell re: wear, traction noise, comfort, etc., but will have a good opportunity this winter to see how they perform with real snow.
Please do report back when you have had a chance to drive on them a little more. I'm very curious how they will be in terms of quietness on the highway. That's one of my biggest priorities for my next set of tires as these P3 cars tend to be very sensitive to tire choice when it comes to road noise.
 
#6,180 ·
I'm embarrassed to report that I've 'laundered' several over the years and haven't had any failures... yet. The normal routine is to pop the remote into a bag of rice (aka Nature's desiccant) and let it sit for a while. Needless to say, the drying out process is dramatically reduced when you discover the remote while folding clothes out of the dryer. :whistle:
 
#6,184 ·
Replaced a burned out headlight bulb
 
#6,188 ·
My front "Volvo" badge came off a week or so ago. It must have been hit by a rock because it came clean off. I replaced it today with a black badge which looks much nicer and should last longer.


Sent from my Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk
 
#6,189 ·
I took advantage of the +60 degree weather we had in NJ this weekend and have the wagon a good scrub to get the road salt off from previous weeks; even sprayed under the chassis.


Sent from my Samsung S9+
 
#6,191 ·
Nice looking V60. Red suits it well. Are those OEM winglets or aftermarket?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,195 ·
Just make sure that you have an R-Design front bumper as these will not fit the standard V60 bumper; only the R-Design/Polestar front bumper.
 
#6,196 ·
Yep, mine is an R-Design so these should work nicely. So far I am at...

Tint windows
Lowering, not sure if I am going to do coilovers or just springs yet. Just want it lowered about 0.5 - 0.75" or so
Wheel spacers - The OEM 18" wheels sit really far inboard.

And now I have the winglets to add to the list.

Started trying to figure out the door harness wiring yesterday, currently I have the High Performance with the 3 way set up in the doors. Looking to replace it all with aftermarket, but not yet sure how to get 3 sets of speaker wire into the door. Was hoping that 3 sets already go through the molex plug, but not so sure at the moment.
 
#6,197 ·
Yep, mine is an R-Design so these should work nicely. So far I am at...

Tint windows
Lowering, not sure if I am going to do coilovers or just springs yet. Just want it lowered about 0.5 - 0.75" or so
Wheel spacers - The OEM 18" wheels sit really far inboard.

And now I have the winglets to add to the list.

Started trying to figure out the door harness wiring yesterday, currently I have the High Performance with the 3 way set up in the doors. Looking to replace it all with aftermarket, but not yet sure how to get 3 sets of speaker wire into the door. Was hoping that 3 sets already go through the molex plug, but not so sure at the moment.
If you only want to lower it that much I would just do H&R springs. I have them on my V60 and love the feel. Also the winglets only fit 2014 and newer Rdesign if you weren't sure.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#6,201 ·
I'm on KW V3s and they go pretty low, which looks awesome but greatly reduces basic functionality of these cars if you go lowish, thanks to very little ground clearance to begin with and long front overhangs. I used to scrape constantly even on regular streets with a bit of crowning, and couldn't get into most driveways. I'm much happier with the KWs raised up a bit higher, to right around the same drop as the H&Rs. Another KW disadvantage is they introduce a lot of road noise that wasn't nearly as pronounced with stock T6 suspension. I'm assuming a spring drop will get you to a nice usable ride height with far fewer compromises and about half the cost even if you use new dampers. I've even considered going back to a cup kit of some sort but my commuting needs changed drastically this year so the KWs aren't as much of a problem on my short commute and limited road use (wifey's Lincoln MKX is available for longer distance use and more technical stuff, lol)
 
#6,205 · (Edited by Moderator)
For those interested in doing their own transmission flush, I've documented my experience.

This was done on an XC60 with a T6 so the same process applies to any T6 car or vehicle with TF80-SC Aisin trans.

I performed a drain and fill first then refilled and flushed 4 times.



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,212 ·
GREAT video...thanks for that. Subscribed to your channel; you have some really interesting content!
 
#6,207 ·
I'm mulling around the idea of deabdging the back except for the V O L V O and the Polestar badge, might be a cleaner look and allow me to polish the back end more thoroughly
 
#6,208 ·
Agreed. That's the reason I removed mine.


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