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What did you do with your s60/V60 (2011+) today?

1M views 9K replies 645 participants last post by  T6dude 
#1 · (Edited)
Similar threads exist in the other forums. I posted a change to the pre-2011+ group under that thread and it was suggested that I post under the "proper" forum.

While I imagine purchasers of older models will be more likely to modify their cars than those of us who buy brand-new, I've already made some changes to mine.

  1. Dealer installed trailer hitch
  2. LED License Plate Lights. First set would overheat, second set, sold as "License Plate Lights" still working fine (better heat handling?).
  3. Corrected dealer-install of trailer controller power -- was pulling off socket on hot side of fuse box instead of fused side. Added per-spec 40A fuse to that socket
  4. Ham radio antenna attached to trunk lid
  5. Ham radio body, CB radio body, and 12V socket installed in trunk, attached to subframe by existing fuse box. CB radio connected to power but not completely hooked up (fuse from lead pulled). Connected to same 40A circuit.
  6. Installed Proclip dash mount for Garmin Nuvi GPS and Ham radio head (display and mic)
  7. Installed 3-socket 12V socket under waterfall, wired into 12V socket in cup holder (wires all run under center console).
  8. Ran 3 CAT-5 cables from trunk to center console -- hidden in wiring tray and under dash. One used to connect Ham radio body and head. Other 2 for spare or something else (like connecting CB radio body and control/mic when I figure out the connections).
  9. Rotated tires around time of my first scheduled factory maint. visit.

I have pictures of all these changes if anyone cares. I posted those in the other forum.

The latest thing I've done to the car is change the oil. In the past I've changed oil in the 3500-5000 mile range (plan 3500, often don't get to until 5000) using semi-synth in non-turbo vehicles. With my model year, Volvo recommends a 7500 mile interval and semi-synth. For the first visit, I upgraded to full synth (and got a rebate for most of it from Casterol).

I just passed 11,000 so was due for an oil change. My steps:
  1. Car up on ramps, in park, parking brake on, back wheels chocked.
  2. Remove plastic/fiberglass cover plate (6 torx screws).
  3. Replace rear cover plate when I realize the engine was forward (6 torx screws)
  4. Remove plastic/fiberglass front cover plate (10 torx screws).
  5. Remove oil-fill cap.
  6. Remove drain plug and let oil drain.
  7. Realize that engine contains more oil than drain pan will hold (was fine for all other family cars).
  8. Replace oil-fill cap and then drain plug.
  9. Empty dran pan, make note to buy bigger one, resume draining oil (repeat #5&6).
  10. Grab sample of draining oil (more about this later).
  11. Wonder why there is no "crush washer" on the drain plug.
  12. Find crush washer on oil pan, remove.
  13. Put new crush washer on drain plug and install.
  14. Worry that you've stripped the drain plug threads when tightening down.
  15. Realize that a crushing crush washer will feel a lot like a stripped thread and that everything is OK.
  16. Remove filter cover with appropriate socket. No need to remove air inlet if you have knuckle and extension.
  17. Swap out internal filter cartridge and replace white-ish O-ring.
  18. Re-install filter cover and tighten down.
  19. Add oil. You did note the appropriate amount before getting your hands dirty, didn't you? (I did)
  20. Start engine, check for any warning lights, check for leaks, rev engine a bit, check for leaks, shut down engine.
  21. Reattach front bottom cover plate.
  22. Remove chocks, pull car off ramps.
  23. Note mileage, clean and put tools away, dispose of trash and used oil responsibly.
  24. Check oil level after a while to let oil drain out of engine galleries. I did this the next morning as it was dark out. Add oil if needed.

I'm sending an oil sample for testing -- if the results show at least 1/2 life left, I'll feel comfortable with the recommended oil change interval. If not, I'll change more frequently. I look at it as cheap insurance to care for my engine.

My previous car (2001 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC) had 178,000 miles when I got rid of it -- engine was fine. My cousin is driving it now.
 
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#1,267 · (Edited)
70,000 mile service (done at 68,900 miles) done at my Inde shop. Mobil 1 and Volvo oil filter. OEM spark plugs, which were harder to find than I thought. Had to call 2 dealers, first didnt stock them (strange) and drive 45 mins to pick them up. Front suspension check for a mysterious rattle at low speed on uneven pavment. Been there since day 1, dealer couldnt find anything, but wanted them to double check, nothing found. Brake check and visual inspection. Total ~ $335.
 
#1,269 ·
No holes, no glue. Holds very well...

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
 
#1,271 ·
Giving the Sensus Nav maps an update....we'll see if it does it while the car is off....if not, I'll have to drive for a couple hours!
Happy Christmas and New Year, all!
Greg
 
#1,276 ·
- Added dual USB charger ports on the passenger side.
This looks neat. I find the port between cupholders useless mostly because it would be full of spilled coffee all the time. We have a dual-port adapter plugged into the charger in the back side of the console and wires just sort of chill between the console and pass. seat so they are available in the same exact place as yours, except of course they don't look neat at all.

Anybody else finds that their coffee spills much more in this car than in any other?
 
#1,277 ·
Trying out a set of Pirelli snow tires this year. Some owners don't want a second set of wheels, so I thought I'd test how these 19-inch snow tires perform on the original Ixion wheels. While the weather has been warm recently, when temps get below 45 degrees, the summer tires start to act like hockey pucks and these winter tires will perform much better. It will be interesting to see how they perform in the snow.

 
#1,286 ·
I'm deciding between a few 19" options right now to go on our new V60, it isn't our primary snow driving car so I am happy to mount a 19 inch rubber on the Borr wheels and run an aftermarket wheel with some new Pilot Super Sports come spring.

I was hoping to run the Pilot Alpin for snows but they seem sold out across canada this winter, might have to look at the Sotto Zero's or the 4D's from dunlop...
 
#1,279 ·
Installed the Black Volvo license plate frames on my V60RD and switched over the Chrome ones to the XC60:




Added yet some more Volvo Goodies to the garage:



Already had the P1800S badge from a swap meet and a family member got me the sign for the P1800.

Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using Tapatalk
 
#1,280 ·
Nice. Is the front license plate from from Volvo as well? Do you have the P/Ns?
 
#1,281 ·
Chris,

Thanks, both frames are from Volvo, when I get home I'll get you the P/N's for both. I honestly didn't even know they had Black Stainless Steel frames until the guy at the Parts Window goes "were they the black or chrome ones you ordered?" I quickly changed my choice to Black and put them on my wagon, lol!
 
#1,293 ·
Maiden voyage of the Yakima Skybox 16 roof box. Holds a ton and can still leave room on the side for one bike rack. Winter wheel/tire set on as well.
Looks great! Ready for winter hauling....
 
#1,288 ·
Yes how did you manage that side USB?[2011 XC70 D5 Polestar]
No photos unfortunately, but it is easy to explain without.

For the USB unit itself, with integrated 12V to 5V converter. I got myself this one from China, but the same thing can no doubt be bought elsewhere. No worries, it's good quality, as I checked before actually installing it. You don't need the square mounting bracket.

Take off the side panel, if pops off easily with a little bit of force. Position where you want to install the USB unit, keeping in mind you need enough space for it to the rear when remounting the side panel. I found just left of one of the panel clips (when viewed from the outside) to be the best position. Put some masking tape on the outside of the panel (to prevent scratches) and mark the are to cut out. The hard plastic nut ring is a good reference. Use the tools to your disposition to (with care!) cut the hole in the side panel. It's made of tough plastic, but surprisingly soft as well. After I had made a initial hole in it, it was easy to enlarge it to its final size and form with a sharp blade. At the inside also remove some of the enforcing ribs to allow space for the nut ring. Once it fits, install the USB unit. You can choose to use the rubber cover flap (as I did), or remove it.

In the centre console, very near to where the USB unit will be places, is a white electrical connector. The two thicker wires on it are for the console 12V cigarette lighter, and they are the ones you'll need to tap into. If I remember correctly the black wire is the - and the green/yellow wire the +. Looked logical but I used a multimeter to check it anyway. Use proper (not too thin) wire to connect the USB unit, I used about 1 foot of wire, but less will do as well. Check if the USB unit works, when power is on you'll notice the bright (blue) LED! Pop the side panel back into place.

As expected, I found the LED on it much too bright, so I ended up masking it with a dot of black modellers paint. Now only the two USB ports itself faintly glow blue, which is a much nicer effect.
 
#1,291 ·
Dropped the car off to get Blizzak LM-32's installed on the 18" wheels...couple of hours later they call to tell me they're out of stock on the correct size so they're going to install Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2's at the same cost. :D

Drove around on them for a while and my initial impression is good.
 
#1,299 ·
Took my V60 in for its first free maintenance. I am at 8,500 miles now. Also test drove a S60 Polestar while I waited. Really love the exhaust and suspension and brakes on it versus the R-Design, but it didn't feel any faster to me honestly. And they were not dealing on the 5 V60 Polestars they had in stock enough for me to trade in my car for one. So mods to the R-Design is my plan...now to see if Polestar will ever offer that exhaust and the Ohlins suspension for sale.
 
#1,301 ·
Likewise - spouse really likes the new '16 V60 RD - although she looks a little suspiciously at the little blue PoleStar badge on the back ("did we really need that?).

However, she took one look at the blue PoleStar V60 on the showroom floor and said "no way". Must be getting older, but also thought +$15k for +25 hp and a harsher suspension ('07 V70 R was last caR) just doesn't do it for me any more - tempted by the brakes, though [emoji41]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#1,304 ·
Almost done with my modifications. Really wanted a Polestar, but couldn't justify the price. I picked up my RD for 37K (Dealer Loaner)

1. KW V3

2. R1Concepts Big Brake Kit

3. R1Concepts Rear Rotors

4. IPD Sway Bar and End Links

5. KPax Cat Back

6. Polestar Wheels

7. Polestar Front and Rear Spoilers

8. Ebay Dead Pedal

Still to Do

1. Wrap Rear Skirt in 3M Matte Charcoal Metallic (almost Identical to Front Color)

2. Tint Windows

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#1,305 ·
Almost done with my modifications. Really wanted a Polestar, but couldn't justify the price. I picked up my RD for 37K (Dealer Loaner)

1. KW V3

2. R1Concepts Big Brake Kit

3. R1Concepts Rear Rotors

4. IPD Sway Bar and End Links

5. KPax Cat Back

6. Polestar Wheels

7. Polestar Front and Rear Spoilers

8. Ebay Dead Pedal

Still to Do

1. Wrap Rear Skirt in 3M Matte Charcoal Metallic (almost Identical to Front Color)

2. Tint Windows
Wow! Your V60RD looks awesome, similar upgrades that I want to do to my V60RD (only did the IPD Rear Sway Bar for now). How do you like the Big Brake Kit? Never heard of the company before.
 
#1,307 ·
How much for the big fronts?

Was thinking of just getting Centric slotted rotors front/rear and Akebono pads for the new RD.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#1,308 ·
It took 6 Weeks to get them in. If you go with standard 2 piece hats and plain Disks the price is lower. I went with 356 mm Disks and 6 Piston.

R2069.X5XX.6XX.X Drilled slotted Rotor- Piston-blue-Painted-Floating Hat $1,935.48

Rear Rotors:

Ordered: 1 Filled: 1 PDS.541040 R1 Premier Series- Cross Drilled And Slotted Rotors $195.88 Ship Date:

Ordered: 1 Filled: 0 PDS.39045L Left: Premier-Series Double Drilled Diamond Slotted Disc Brake Rotors $0.00 Ship Date:

Ordered: 1 Filled: 0 PDS.39045R Right: Premier-Series Double Drilled Diamond Slotted Disc Brake Rotors $0.00 Ship Date:
 
#1,309 ·
It took 6 Weeks to get them in. If you go with standard 2 piece hats and plain Disks the price is lower. I went with 356 mm Disks and 6 Piston.

R2069.X5XX.6XX.X Drilled slotted Rotor- Piston-blue-Painted-Floating Hat $1,935.48

Rear Rotors:

Ordered: 1 Filled: 1 PDS.541040 R1 Premier Series- Cross Drilled And Slotted Rotors $195.88 Ship Date:

Ordered: 1 Filled: 0 PDS.39045L Left: Premier-Series Double Drilled Diamond Slotted Disc Brake Rotors $0.00 Ship Date:

Ordered: 1 Filled: 0 PDS.39045R Right: Premier-Series Double Drilled Diamond Slotted Disc Brake Rotors $0.00 Ship Date:
Thanks - not ridiculous - I think Viva was talking $2k each corner for the PoleStar/Brembo 6-piston upgrade.

Please post after they are bedded to let us know if they seem worth the $$.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#1,312 ·
I plan to, I didn't know they were metallic Blue, so I need to get G2 to custom match the color. I received a bottle of touch up paint with the kit and will send a sample to G2 to see if they can match.

The KWs so far are good, really absorb road imperfections better than stock, but haven't done much spirited driving yet. They settled about a Half an inch after installation and driving and had to raise them due to the front spoiler scraping a few driveway entrances. I'm at 13.75" on all 4 corners right now.
 
#1,318 ·
I'm a long time lurker, and I've posted a couple of times in some random threads, but this is my first REAL post!

I installed the Elevate air intake on my S60 T5 today. I just had to share!






The last picture is of the ECU mount. This part was pretty awkward. I found that a good bit of the instructions provided by ELEVATE didn't match my vehicle. I think they used a C30, so similar but a slightly different engine compartment.
As you can see, I've also done the turbo intake. I did this early last week and still have the scabs on my knuckles. Anyone else who's done this mod can feel my pain when I mention getting at the rubber resonator is quite difficult. I also did the IPD sway bar last week, and I have to say, that it was by far the easiest to install. I used ramps and it probably took me 20 minutes.

I've only driven her around the block, as it was getting dark as I was finishing up, but the difference in sound is pretty striking. Maybe it's just in my head, but it sounds deeper and more aggressive. You can hear the turbo spool up and the CBV almost sounds like a blow off valve. I'll report back later if I decide that I can tell a performance difference.
 
#1,319 ·
Looks great! I'm sure the change in sound isn't your imagination. Intakes have always made my cars sound deeper and louder at full throttle. I wish there was an intake upgrade available for the T6!
 
#1,331 ·
There may be a P* intake upgrade coming for the T6.
 
#1,324 ·
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Nice modifications. But how come you got old diffuser on your facelifted car?
The KPAX exhaust doesn't fit with the 2014+ rear diffuser without making a modification to the exhaust hangers; Chris was able to get it to work on his V60RD.
 
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