SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

What did you do with your s60/V60 (2011+) today?

1M views 9K replies 645 participants last post by  Fooj 
#1 · (Edited)
Similar threads exist in the other forums. I posted a change to the pre-2011+ group under that thread and it was suggested that I post under the "proper" forum.

While I imagine purchasers of older models will be more likely to modify their cars than those of us who buy brand-new, I've already made some changes to mine.

  1. Dealer installed trailer hitch
  2. LED License Plate Lights. First set would overheat, second set, sold as "License Plate Lights" still working fine (better heat handling?).
  3. Corrected dealer-install of trailer controller power -- was pulling off socket on hot side of fuse box instead of fused side. Added per-spec 40A fuse to that socket
  4. Ham radio antenna attached to trunk lid
  5. Ham radio body, CB radio body, and 12V socket installed in trunk, attached to subframe by existing fuse box. CB radio connected to power but not completely hooked up (fuse from lead pulled). Connected to same 40A circuit.
  6. Installed Proclip dash mount for Garmin Nuvi GPS and Ham radio head (display and mic)
  7. Installed 3-socket 12V socket under waterfall, wired into 12V socket in cup holder (wires all run under center console).
  8. Ran 3 CAT-5 cables from trunk to center console -- hidden in wiring tray and under dash. One used to connect Ham radio body and head. Other 2 for spare or something else (like connecting CB radio body and control/mic when I figure out the connections).
  9. Rotated tires around time of my first scheduled factory maint. visit.

I have pictures of all these changes if anyone cares. I posted those in the other forum.

The latest thing I've done to the car is change the oil. In the past I've changed oil in the 3500-5000 mile range (plan 3500, often don't get to until 5000) using semi-synth in non-turbo vehicles. With my model year, Volvo recommends a 7500 mile interval and semi-synth. For the first visit, I upgraded to full synth (and got a rebate for most of it from Casterol).

I just passed 11,000 so was due for an oil change. My steps:
  1. Car up on ramps, in park, parking brake on, back wheels chocked.
  2. Remove plastic/fiberglass cover plate (6 torx screws).
  3. Replace rear cover plate when I realize the engine was forward (6 torx screws)
  4. Remove plastic/fiberglass front cover plate (10 torx screws).
  5. Remove oil-fill cap.
  6. Remove drain plug and let oil drain.
  7. Realize that engine contains more oil than drain pan will hold (was fine for all other family cars).
  8. Replace oil-fill cap and then drain plug.
  9. Empty dran pan, make note to buy bigger one, resume draining oil (repeat #5&6).
  10. Grab sample of draining oil (more about this later).
  11. Wonder why there is no "crush washer" on the drain plug.
  12. Find crush washer on oil pan, remove.
  13. Put new crush washer on drain plug and install.
  14. Worry that you've stripped the drain plug threads when tightening down.
  15. Realize that a crushing crush washer will feel a lot like a stripped thread and that everything is OK.
  16. Remove filter cover with appropriate socket. No need to remove air inlet if you have knuckle and extension.
  17. Swap out internal filter cartridge and replace white-ish O-ring.
  18. Re-install filter cover and tighten down.
  19. Add oil. You did note the appropriate amount before getting your hands dirty, didn't you? (I did)
  20. Start engine, check for any warning lights, check for leaks, rev engine a bit, check for leaks, shut down engine.
  21. Reattach front bottom cover plate.
  22. Remove chocks, pull car off ramps.
  23. Note mileage, clean and put tools away, dispose of trash and used oil responsibly.
  24. Check oil level after a while to let oil drain out of engine galleries. I did this the next morning as it was dark out. Add oil if needed.

I'm sending an oil sample for testing -- if the results show at least 1/2 life left, I'll feel comfortable with the recommended oil change interval. If not, I'll change more frequently. I look at it as cheap insurance to care for my engine.

My previous car (2001 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC) had 178,000 miles when I got rid of it -- engine was fine. My cousin is driving it now.
 
See less See more
#6,060 ·
The lettering was engraved into the plastic.
 
#6,059 ·
I have it for several months in blue, but I still have not installed it.
it's easy to install?
 
#6,061 ·
Yea really easy to install, just use the thinnest/smallest flat head screw driver and a little painters tape underneath (bottom part of the button) where you pop out; not hard at all to do.
 
#6,067 ·
That's really cool. I like it!
 
#6,068 ·
Oil Consumption issues 2013 s60 T5


Hello all,
I’ve been burning thru 4 quarts of oil in 500 miles. Took it to the dealership who documented the consumption. dropped my car off Monday per their request. They said they’d have it for about a week for diagnostics and possibly new piston rings or engine. The service associate called my yesterday to say repair is not covered by my warranty and costs $4,700 but he is “working on it” called me today and said Volvo is willing to cover the parts but I have to pay labor which is $1,700. Has anyone else had experience with this?
Thank you
 
#6,069 ·
Just received a spare + jack kit from Erie Vovo! All looks good. Just need to find time (probably tomorrow morning) to get it fitted in the cargo area. Still trying to decide if I should cut up the tray under the floor like saabaru did (https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?227013-2015-V60-RD-Spare-Tire-Installed!) or just go without. Likely the former. I'll also see if I can find room under there for my portable air compressor and the sealant kit because why not.
 
#6,070 ·
A little upgraded to the chassis and under the hood to get ready for a track day.

Ultra racing front and rear chassis brace and an IPD upper engine mount. I decided to change the plugs as well even though they only had 40k on them.

It's been a week and the ride feels great not a bit more harsh but a more solid feel and as you can imagine less body roll into the corners.

I will update after track day to see If feel or lap times are better.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#6,077 ·
Good to know. Have been thinking of doing this. Any noticable difference in brightness overall?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,084 ·
Interesting note for anyone running Polestar end links with an elevate sway bar. I actually found that the little metal sleeves that Elevate includes with their sway bars is slightly taller than the hole that it sits in. Because of this, there was a slight area of play between the washer, nut, and sway bar. This was causing the rear end to make a good amount of noise. Ended up grinding down the sleeve and no more noise. I cant imagine many people are running this setup, but figured I would share.
 
#6,085 ·
One of the reasons that my buddy switched from using the Elevate Sway Bar to the IPD Sway Bar on his S60 Polestar. Since switching to the IPD bar he's had no noises.
 
#6,092 ·
If you want, I can send you mine, I ordered the red as well...

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 
#6,095 ·
LED bulb replacement is a pain in the butt on these cars. Brake lights didn't get along with the bulbs I bought, and the front turn signals triggered the hyperflash symptom. The pain with the brake lights is that the wiring is all bound together so I can't install the resistors. Weirdly, the bulbs I bought for the rear turn signals worked flawlessly -- nice and bright, no hyperflash. My LED headlights and high beams work well post-resistor too. MUCH better visibility than my old halogens. My search continues for front turn signals and brake lights that will play nice with my electronics, though.

Also finally got my K&N filter slotted in. Nothing "wow"-inspiring, but it certainly improved the throttle response on tip-in. I was a bit disappointed that I didn't notice much of a change in the engine note as stated by others. Overall, though, I'm happy with it.

Right now, I'm waiting on a warm enough day to smoke my head and taillights and to chrome-delete my window trim and grille.
 
#6,096 ·
Car wrapping and painting my brake calipers

Before



After




 
#6,098 ·
#6,100 ·
First snow here in SE Michigan yesterday. Got around 8" ( not pictured, obviously).

Sold my 17" pegs and blizzaks to clean up the garage a bit (three sets of wheels is a bit much).. put a set of general altimax arctic's on the 18's... she's a ripper, to say the least.

In all honesty though, the altimax's are my favorite snow tire. Super affordable, great ice/ deep snow traction and studdable!


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,102 ·
Looks good! How are they in terms of road noise and sidewall stability? I hate a loud snowtire that drives like they are made of jello.
 
#6,104 ·
Got my snows on. Amazing how jacking up at the front pinch weld lifts the entire side of the car. The rear actually came off the ground first lol. That's one stiff suspension. Also installed a Red Start/Stop Button. I like it.


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
#6,111 ·
Springs or coil overs? And how much drop?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,125 ·
Looks really good lowered. I don't think I could realistically get away with lowering or a smaller sidewall here in MI. The ride in my V60RD is already pretty bad.. I can't imagine a higher spring rate and less tire are going to help that.

I think 0.5" would be good..


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Going from what you have (R-Design) to H&R would be only 0.6" beyond current.

I still have my H&R's sitting in the basement. I need to get them on stat! My issue is that with my 235/45's, I'm probably going to have to take the 15 mm H&R spacers off.
 
#6,126 ·
Going from what you have (R-Design) to H&R would be only 0.6" beyond current.

I still have my H&R's sitting in the basement. I need to get them on stat! My issue is that with my 235/45's, I'm probably going to have to take the 15 mm H&R spacers off.
Oh yeah, definitely. At near full compression in the rear with the *15mm spacers ( previously said 20) clearance to the actually metal fender is very minimal (I would estimate 2-3mm). Would likely need to roll fenders.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,122 ·
New wheels on. I'm thinking I'm liking them better than my old BBS set. Wish they were a bit more aggressive offset wise, but I am happy enough (compared to 50 and 55 offsets)

Wheel specs: Rays Waltz Forged s5-r wheels. 18x8 with 44 offset.
I see you with the KPAX grille as well :p
 
#6,124 · (Edited)
Back of powder coating for my Polestar winter wheels, a GTechniq ceramic treatment to protect them and I install them, I can not wait to see the final result!

 
#6,128 ·
Did you remove your rear plastic inner fenders?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
#6,135 ·
Just installed a set of Yokohama Avid Ascend GTs (235/45R17) on my stock Sadia wheels. I was debating about what to get and decided that since I don't drive like I did when I was younger, Grand Touring tires make more sense than High Performance tires. Also, since I have a set of 18" Midir wheels, if I really get the itch to put some more aggressive tires on, I'll put High Performance Summer rubber on those wheels and keep the Yokohama's as my cool/cold weather tire. I decided against the Vredestein Quatrac because we really don't get enough snow around here and I can remote in and work from home if the roads are bad enough that I can't get to work. No point in paying for the 3 peak mountain snowflake rating if I'll never use it.

Another factor is that the tires were way cheaper on Walmart.com than Tire Rack, so I saved a bunch of money and got a very highly rated touring tire for the price of a budget high-performance tire. The price today isn't as low as what I paid, but it's still quite a bit cheaper than Tire Rack if anyone else is interested. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Yokohama-ASCEND-GT-235-45R17-97V-Tire/913042146 $103.26 vs. $134.99
 
Top