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    1. #1
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      Replace my own timing belt?

      I'm a pretty handy DIY guy but should I attempt to replace my own timing belt/water pump/pulleys on my T5? If there are no specialized tool involved, I'm up for it, but wanted to know if it's doable by a backyard mechanic. Hate to get halfway done and realize I need a special tool.

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    3. #2
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      Having only worked on old Hondas in my driveway prior to getting a t5, I was pleasantly surprised at how reasonable the timing belt job was. If you've done a t-belt before you shouldn't have a problem doing yours. The only issue I had was the Torx bolt on one of the tensioners was impossible to put on a ratchet and I needed to fight with a box end wrench and a Torx screwdriver bit to replace it, which was frustrating but not difficult. Jus double and triple check your bolts and make sure everything is lined up and you should be able to do it in less than a day.

    4. #3
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      Sounds good. What size torx is the tensioner? I wonder if I can get a tool for it? I have torx sockets like you but it sounds like that won't work.

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    6. #4
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      2003 S60 T5M - bilstein sport/eibach, sways, exhaust, mini h1 projectors, and other minor touches

    7. #5
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      That was a great video. Thanks. I do have one question. On the timing belt tensioner, he said some are at 11 oclock and some at 4 oclock. Can I just take a look at mine before I remove it?

    8. #6
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      I just did the job on my XC70. I needed to use a serpentine belt tensioner tool with a T60 on the serp belt tensioner. I think you will need one of these. Any ratchet I had was way too deep to work, plus it needs more than a little torque to release. The job is not too difficult, but you do need a good 1/2" impact and 30mm socket to remove the crank pulley. Also, the cam timing marks on mine were very difficult to see, and easily confused with other marks on the cam pulleys. The pulleys had tiny scribe marks for the timing marks, as well a "M" and a "0", neither of which are the correct mark. I bought all the parts from IPDUSA, and paid about $210 if I recall, plus coolant. Also, note that the TB tensioner adjustment is different depending upon engine serial number.

    9. #7
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      Thanks Scopeman, there's a lot of great info in your post. I'll definately have to check everything out before I commit to doing the job myself.

    10. #8
      Senior Member JRL's Avatar
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      Crank pulley?
      Why would you remove that?
      Email: jrl1194 ( at ) AOL (dot) com
      2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak/Tan/Arena, 116K miles. My DD with no plans to sell it anytime soon
      2000 V70R, Wife's, she won't sell. Now she hit 153,000 miles and still near perfect!

    11. #9
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      I think because the belt is behind the crank pulley on another pulley. Not 100% sure though.

    12. #10
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      I removed the crank serpentine belt pulley to be able to easily see the timing mark, and more easily mount the timing belt. I have seen where the timing belt can be worked around the pulley, but with some apparent difficulty. The pulley is not difficult to remove, puller not required at all, but an impact and good 30mm socket are. I suppose that an experienced Volvo tech may not need to do this after dozens of TB changes.

    13. #11
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      I did mine (2 weeks ago) on a 2000 C70 HPT. Only thing I had to use that was notable for me was the impact wrench with a 30mm (rented the socket for free from local auto-parts store) for the crankshaft pulley (I couldn't get it around the pulley, either. I'm told this is a 2000+ model year thing.) I used just a 16mm (think that's the size) closed side of an open wrench to get the serpentine. It was a pain but I got it. To put it back on I got out my ratcheting open and it worked much better as I could get it at the angle I wanted. Try it out, I could see the tensioner tool being worth $20 to someone, I personally don't.
      As for where to move the tensioner to, whenever you're done it should line up, ie: the pin in the center (if it's 60-80F, if it's colder it should be slightly counter-clock, and vice-verse.) Whole process only took me ~2 hours, but I didn't bother with the water pump. If you follow that video you'll be good (worked on my HPT.) Mine tightens down to ~7 O'clock. Just go a little past it and then back into position. It didn't make sense to me until I was fiddling with it, so you'll see ;P Mine used a 6mm Hex wrench to tighten down. Get a friend to help with the belts, it'll make life much easier, one person can loosen the belt as much as possible and you kinda want 2 hands to get the belt on.
      Didn't use any torx bits except to get the upper cover off. (And they're not that tight, I grabbed the wrong size T25 and they came right off anyways, they're a T30.) Good luck.
      2000 C70 HPT 5 spd; ~140k miles IPD high-flow air filter; Snaab high-flow Intake; Snaab short throw shifter.
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    14. #12
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      I took a good close look at my 2009 C70 it yesterday and it sure looks like I have to remove the motor mount. And mine has 2 other belts. One goes from the crank pulley around what I think is the a/c unit. It has a tensioner that is a torx and is no problem removing. But then there is the alternator belt which doesn't have a tensioner. But it doesn't lokk like this needs to come off to do a timing belt anyway. I guess my main quaetion is about the motor mount. Does this need to be removed to replace the timing belt? I can't see any other way to get the belt off.

    15. #13
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      Yes you must remove that motor mount for timing belt replacement.

      You will have to support the engine before removing it, either by jack from the oil pan or if you have an engine hoist to hold it from that hook near the intake cam gear.

    16. #14
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      Ok. Thanks.

    17. #15
      Junior Member Banjo Bud's Avatar
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      Well, here's an update. I did the timing belt this past Saturday. I would encourage anyone that is any bit of a DIY'er to do this as it wasn't that bad, and it saved me several hundreds of dollars. However, only if you prepare for it with the right tools, and watch Jason’s video from a few posts back, several times. What is necessary is a 1/2" drive air impact gun with a 30mm and 10mm socket. Also a #50 and #60 torx bit on a 3/8 drive ratchett, a 6mm allen wrench, and a handful of metric sockets and wrenches. A torque wrench capable of 133 ft. lbs. and a 15" long or longer extension for it. 10mm wrench and sockets were the most used tools. All the other tools I used were normal things. It was very tight quarters.

      1. Remove the passenger side inner fender lining.

      2. Remove the top piece of plastic covering the timing belt. Support the motor underneath with a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the passenger side and remove the motor mount on the fender well on the passenger side.

      3. Remove the a/c belt and the alternator belt

      4. Remove all the plastic timing belt covers. There’s also a small plastic cover behind the harmonic balancer. You will hear the pulley on the crank called a harmonic balancer and a crank pulley. I think they are the same thing. Watch the video. It's good but not perfect because my car is a C70 and it's different in some areas.

      5. Remove the harmonic balancer with the 30mm and 10mm with the air gun.

      6. Put the 30 mm nut back on just with your fingers.

      7. Line up the timing marks as described on the video. The timing marks on the cam gears are easy to line up. But the one on the crank gear is next to impossible to see, even if you know what it looks like. It is two extremely tiny slits on the top rear of two of the teeth. These marks straddle the pointer on the engine. You have to remove the harmonic balancer to see the pointer on the engine.

      8. The video will warn you about the gears moving and not being on their mark when you install the new belt. So, here's what I did and it worked great. Once the marks were all where they were supposed to be, and the old belt still on the car, I took a magic marker (black is fine) and put a line on each gear and on the belt at each gear that lined up with each other. So, there's 6 marks, 1 on the belt at each gear and 1 on each gear that lines up with the marks you just put on the belt. These marks don’t have to be in any particular location, just as long as they are on the gears and belt.

      9. Take the 6mm allen wrench, put it in the spot for it on the tension pulley, turn it clockwise and untension the tension pulley and remove the belt.

      10. Take the old belt and hold it next to the new belt and transfer the 3 marks to the new belt. Be precise here. I marked one "intake" and one "EX" just so I'd put it on right.

      11. I suggest you replace the tension pulley, idler pulley, and water pump. So, drain the coolant from the radiator. I drained mine into a clean jug and reused it. It's expensive.

      12. Remove the tension pulley, the idler pulley, and the water pump. I had to raise and lower the engine several times with the jack I had under it. The motor will swivel on the motor mount that is on the driver’s side.

      13. Put the new idler, tensioner, and water pump on. (This takes a little longer than writing it for sure. Especially the water pump. It’s really tight and I just kept raising & lowering the motor to access the 7 bolts as needed.) And do not pull the pin on the tensioner yet. Wait until the new belt is on.

      14. Put the new belt on as described on the video, with the exception that you will line up your magic marker marks, and not necessarily the timing marks. Put the belt around the crank pulley, lining up the magic marker marks, then pull it tight along the front of the engine, around the idler pulley and around the intake cam gear, lining up the magic marker marks on the cam gear and belt. If they don’t line up, turn the cam gear with the #60 torx bit, or with your hand. Then put the belt over to the exhaust cam gear, once again, lining up the magic marker marks.

      15. Snake the belt around the water pump and the tensioner pulley.

      16. Put the 6mm allen wrench in the tensioner pulley and turn it slightly clockwise until the pin either falls out or you take it out. Let the allen wrench go and the tensioner pulley will turn itself counter clockwise and put tension on the new belt.

      17. Rotate the engine a few times clockwise with the ratchet by hand to seat the bealt and make sure everything is free.

      18. Take the 30mm nut off and put the small plastic thing back on that goes behind the harmonic balancer.

      19. Put the harmonic balancer back on. You don’t NEED the special Volvo crank holding tool ($75) to retorque the 30mm nut. Get one 8mm bolt that is about an inch longer than the original 4 that go on the balancer. Put 3 of the original bolts back in. Take the long one, put a washer on it, then slide a chain that will fit onto the 8mm bolt, then about 4 or 5 more washers, then put it in the last hole. Hook the other end of the chain around a good frame part somehow. (I used the lower control arm). Then torque the 30mm nut to 133 ft. lbs.
      That’s pretty much it. Just put the plastics back on and the a/c and alt belt back on. This is where I broke the alt belt tensioner. Boy was I mad.

      Have a drink and celebrate. For about $240, you did what most people pay $700 - $1000 for.
      Oh. One more thing. You WILL be sore the next day, but it's a good sore.
      Last edited by Banjo Bud; 02-20-2013 at 03:06 PM.

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