Definitive S60R Axle Guide! ??
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    1. #1
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      Definitive S60R Axle Guide! ??

      I'm currently troubleshooting a whirring noise coming from the front left which is speed dependent and accompanied by some vibration around 75+ (may or may not be related) but still in its fairly early stages so i cant decide whether its a wheel bearing or left front axle... ANYWAY, i took it upon myself to figure out potential costs and was re-reminded how challenging it is to figure axles for our cars over 4 years and 3 transmissions! This forum had some scattered help but not highly usable.

      So, i propose to make this thread THE source. We all know OEM is an option for each corner @ around $375 each from your preferred web source, so we dont need to include them. I'm interested in alternatives as follows - please contribute your experience and i'll reconcile it all together. Of course i care most about my 06 6-speed auto but i'll help out the forum

      Please report PART NUMBERs and fitment, and describe your experience with them. Feel free to report other vendors not included in this short list.

      2006-2007 6-sp Auto
      - New from EMPI Axles from FCP 80-7821 shown to fit on their website, but EMPI product guide online specifically EXCL. the R. Nevertheless, people on this forum have stated they used these apparently without problems?? How?
      - New from NAPA
      - Remanufactured through Autozone
      - Remanufactured through Cardone
      - Remanufactured through Anca's Auto

      2004-2007 6-sp Manual
      - New from EMPI FCP / [Part Number]
      - New from NAPA
      - Reman Autozone
      - Reman Cardone
      - Reman Other

      2004-2005 5-sp Auto
      - New from EMPI FCP
      - New from NAPA
      - Reman Autozone
      - Reman Cardone
      - Reman Other
      2006 S60R GT- Black/Gobi @90k miles / K&N intake / IPD HD TCV / Iridium plugs (.028) / 55w HID main and fog @6000k / GSX 3" DP / IPD Stage 2 / Strut Tower Brace / IPD F&R Track-Sways / Solid Subframe Bushings

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    3. #2
      Junior Member BumpinVolvo's Avatar
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      I got an EMPI from my volvo indy for $150 a couple years ago. I'll try to dig up the invoice to see if it lists a part #. I have an 04 with 5-sp GT.
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    4. #3
      Member Denis's Avatar
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      Got Cardone unit from Rock Auto around 3 years ago. Clamp failed on it but it was an easy fix.

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by Denis View Post
      Got Cardone unit from Rock Auto around 3 years ago. Clamp failed on it but it was an easy fix.
      do you know which part number? hard on RA's web site nowadays to figure if its really a part for the R or just the 2.5
      2006 S60R GT- Black/Gobi @90k miles / K&N intake / IPD HD TCV / Iridium plugs (.028) / 55w HID main and fog @6000k / GSX 3" DP / IPD Stage 2 / Strut Tower Brace / IPD F&R Track-Sways / Solid Subframe Bushings

    7. #5
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      Re: Definitive S60R Axle Guide! ??

      I didn't need part numbers or anything, just picked up the phone and called erievovo and asked for Adam. Told him make and model of my car and got two new/used axles for my 05VR for $160 shipped to the for with a lifetime warranty. Isn't that simple enough? FWIW, I am replacing a trans in my MT C70, because I blew a cv joint and replaced it with a faulty empi axle. Both off my axles died at 165k. No cheap China crop for me.

      Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
      2001 C70 Convertible HPT Factory Manual 93k.The following errors occurred with your submission

      • Your signature contains too many lines and must be shortened. You have too much @#[email protected] in your car.


    8. #6
      Junior Member JewFro's Avatar
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      Burg are you saying the Empi axle caused your C70's transmission to fail? Am I reading that right? What happened?

      From my VW experience the Empi axles are AWFUL in every way. They blow apart on lowered cars but even those that has used them in stock height cars have had a lot of problems with vibrations and boots ripping.

    9. #7
      Member Denis's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ajbell11 View Post
      do you know which part number? hard on RA's web site nowadays to figure if its really a part for the R or just the 2.5
      No, sorry, as much as I know left axles are the same but the passenger side has to be AWD only

    10. #8
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      Re: Definitive S60R Axle Guide! ??

      Quote Originally Posted by JewFro View Post
      Burg are you saying the Empi axle caused your C70's transmission to fail? Am I reading that right? What happened?

      From my VW experience the Empi axles are AWFUL in every way. They blow apart on lowered cars but even those that has used them in stock height cars have had a lot of problems with vibrations and boots ripping.
      Correct, bits of the tip of the thread broke inside my trans. Only replaced it because I wanted to save $35 over a erievovo new/used one. OEM new or used or go home. Hell with remans or cheap China crap, I am Chinese btw and I hate cheap China junk killing our US economy. in the starter and alternator industry to have some Chinese companies have a accepted 40% failure rate.

      Quote Originally Posted by Denis View Post
      No, sorry, as much as I know left axles are the same but the passenger side has to be AWD only
      I think both axles need to be from awd, cars and wagons..xc iirc are longer

      Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
      2001 C70 Convertible HPT Factory Manual 93k.The following errors occurred with your submission

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    11. #9
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      This thread really needs more information.

      I replaced my 2005 S60R MT driver side axle with Autozone part number 10933N, which appears to be a Duralast Gold VO-8035. I found this axle by searching autozone.com for part number "60-9257", which is an axle made by CarDone, and this axle came up with "60-9257" in the cross reference.
      Last edited by Arch Stanton; 01-14-2014 at 04:58 AM.

    12. #10
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      Certainly post with your impressions of the quality & come back w/ experience after driving for a while!
      2006 S60R GT- Black/Gobi @90k miles / K&N intake / IPD HD TCV / Iridium plugs (.028) / 55w HID main and fog @6000k / GSX 3" DP / IPD Stage 2 / Strut Tower Brace / IPD F&R Track-Sways / Solid Subframe Bushings

    13. #11
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      http://febestparts.com/BALL_BEARING_.../AS-457519-2RS

      Just change that bearing, whirring noise can be cause by this one.

    14. #12
      Junior Member NorthWestR's Avatar
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      I just ordered the same part as Arch from Autozone: 10933N for my driver's side 05 R 6spd Manual. I've cannibalized my existing left side axle to rebuild the Rzeppa CV joint on my passenger side (cage, bearings and star gear). I'll report back on how that goes. Hell of a savings at $75.00 compared to the ~$580.00 a new OE right side R axle runs. Thanks to Arch for the recommendation and thinking outside of the box.
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    15. #13
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthWestR View Post
      I just ordered the same part as Arch from Autozone: 10933N for my driver's side 05 R 6spd Manual. I've cannibalized my existing left side axle to rebuild the Rzeppa CV joint on my passenger side (cage, bearings and star gear). I'll report back on how that goes. Hell of a savings at $75.00 compared to the ~$580.00 a new OE right side R axle runs. Thanks to Arch for the recommendation and thinking outside of the box.
      Glad it seems to be working for you NorthWestR, I found it amazing when going through broken-CV-joint threads how many people gave into Volvo's price gouging on replacing the whole passenger side axle instead of just doing a rebuild like we did. I spent about $80 on the Duralast axle from Autozone, $6 on Dorman 03636 CV clamps, and $2 on Dorman CV grease, for a total of about $88.

      I do want to take out the Duralast axle that I ordered from Autozone and replace it with a rebuilt OEM axle when I have more time. I tried doing this over Christmas break, but bought the wrong axle from a junkyard I found on www.car-part.com . Here's what I bought:



      Which has a tripod joint, instead of the Rzeppa joint that I was trying to rebuild. It is possible that I could have replaced the entire joint (instead of just the Rzeppa bearing cage), but I was hesitant to run a Rzeppa joint in one axle and a tripod joint in the other, as it would result in consistently more power getting put to the ground on the tripod side. Not to mention, I wasn't sure if the Rzeppa & tripod joints were the same length.

      Here's a picture of a tripod joint which was inside the above axle:



      I will update this thread when I get to cannibalizing an axle from another S60 to rebuild my driver side axle. So far, I have only cannibalized my driver side in order to rebuild the difficult-to-replace passenger side & completely replaced the easy-to-replace driver side.



      edit: this youtube video is invaluable for those of you trying to figure out how the hell to reassemble your Rzeppa joint: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfcFBz0rndE
      Last edited by Arch Stanton; 01-30-2014 at 02:48 AM.

    16. #14
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      Dorman 03636 CV boot clamps will work on the S60R MT inner CV joint. No need to buy an entire boot kit if just re-assembling the CV joint. You can order thees from O'Reilly for about $6.

    17. #15
      Member Paisley Pirate's Avatar
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      I have a 2004SR with 5spd automatic.

      Got these from Autozone in May last year.

      Duralast Gold/CV Axle
      Item# 6014N $54.99 USD 1 $54.99 USD
      Duralast Gold/CV Axle
      Item# 6015N $59.99 USD 1 $59.99 USD

      They came in as brand new. They were fine... EXCEPT that the carrier bearing mounted on it was less than .001" too large for the drive shaft. It will allow the right inner shaft to walk out of the output of the transmission. My recommendation is to simply tap it out, coat it with sleeve retainer, and then tap it back in... it will keep it in place and hold it permanently.

      And yeah, $115 instead of nearly $1000 is worth the extra hour of labor on install.
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      Sounds like a good option for 05 autos.

      Arch & Northwest were discussing rebuilding axles... Wondering how that would work for 06 GT (auto) R's... Because those axles are really hard to come by.

      Are the internal components common w/ other s60 axles (05 auto)?

      Any rebuild strategies for the 06 gt?
      2006 S60R GT- Black/Gobi @90k miles / K&N intake / IPD HD TCV / Iridium plugs (.028) / 55w HID main and fog @6000k / GSX 3" DP / IPD Stage 2 / Strut Tower Brace / IPD F&R Track-Sways / Solid Subframe Bushings

    19. #17
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ajbell11 View Post
      Sounds like a good option for 05 autos.

      Arch & Northwest were discussing rebuilding axles... Wondering how that would work for 06 GT (auto) R's... Because those axles are really hard to come by.

      Are the internal components common w/ other s60 axles (05 auto)?

      Any rebuild strategies for the 06 gt?
      Most, if not all inner CV joints on the non-R S60s are tripod joints, not rzeppa joints like on our S60Rs. In that case, you wont' be able to use the parts from a standard S60 axle on an S60R.

      You can spot a volvo OEM tripod joint as the CV joint body is contoured around the tripod joint, whereas the rzeppa joint body is round all the way around.

      I believe GKN is the original manufacturer of the Volvo axles. You can see the types of joints they make, and see this for yourself:

      http://www.gknservice.com/global/pas...ty_joints.html

      The S60R joints are most like the "ball plunging (VL) joint", whereas the S60 joints are most like the "tripod plunging (AAR) joint".

      I have tried unsuccessfully sourcing the bearing cage (GKN calls it a "cv joint housing") for our S60R axles. All axles, S60 and S60R have rzeppa joints on the outer CV joint, but these bearing cages do not work in the inner CV joint (fixed ball vs. plunging joint).



      The best course of action from the information I have presently would be to go to www.car-part.com, and source a driver side S60R axle for your transmission type. You can then use the inner CV joint from this driver side axle to rebuild either your driver side or passenger side inner CV joint. The latter works out great because passenger side axles do not exist in the aftermarket for MT S60Rs.

      If you only have one bad axle and don't mind going aftermarket, you can do what NorthWestR and I did & just replace the driver side axle (part numbers above) & use your driver side axle to rebuild the passenger side axle if necessary.

    20. #18
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      I need a front passenger side CV axle for my 2004 V704 with automatic transmission. I checked the AutoZone website, then called their store. This is the only one they show. It does not indicate whether it is front or back, left or right...

      http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

      Curious if they are all the same????

    21. #19
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by V704me View Post
      I need a front passenger side CV axle for my 2004 V704 with automatic transmission. I checked the AutoZone website, then called their store. This is the only one they show. It does not indicate whether it is front or back, left or right...

      http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

      Curious if they are all the same????
      that is a front passenger side axle, you can tell by the length & fact it has CV joints. CV joints are not needed on the rear wheels, since the rear wheels do not engage in steering.

      it should be a good fit for you. same brand i temporarily used before getting my hands on a swedespeeder's axles. if it doesn't fit, you can always return it.

    22. #20
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      '06 Auto? Good luck but be prepared for a headache, hopefully it will be easier for you than it was for me. I tore the outer CV boot on my '07, tried to just replace the boot. Couldn't find a way to disassemble the outer joint so I had to disassemble at the inner, which was a tripod joint. Every local parts place sold me boots that didn't fit, said 'F' it and got a reman from NAPA (the last real non-independent parts store), even they sold me the wrong axle. Somehow I guess the TF-80SC cars are a big mystery to everyone. I was able to kludge a boot on the outer, but then over time the inner boot started leaking (I must not have gotten the boot on as tight as it should have been) so I just got a new one from Tasca.

      FYI the rear has CV joints too; the differential is bolted to the car and the wheel moves with the suspension, so you need joints to allow for that.
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    23. #21
      Member Paisley Pirate's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
      that is a front passenger side axle, you can tell by the length & fact it has CV joints. CV joints are not needed on the rear wheels, since the rear wheels do not engage in steering.

      it should be a good fit for you. same brand i temporarily used before getting my hands on a swedespeeder's axles. if it doesn't fit, you can always return it.
      I beg to disagree. Ours certainly do have CV joints on the rears. Even though they don't pivot nearly as far as the fronts do, they still do pivot as the independent rear suspension does it's thing. Most rear drive, IRS cars do have these since the 80s.
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      I decided to try Napa. The axle they provided was wrong. It had a much larger shoulder on it than the original part and it would not slide even close to far enough into the transmission. I checked with Autozone per Paisley Pirate's advice. They seemed very unsure about getting the right part and they wanted me to pay for it up front. I decided to try O'Reilly. Talked to the oldest guy there. He was smart. He ordered all 3 versions he had in his warehouse so I could compare them all to my original piece. I ended up getting part number 60-9254. Cost was 69.99. It looks identical to the original part. It is a reman. The new version had a completely different "bearing housing area" and even the axel itself looked different. The reman piece seemed like the way to go. I'll keep my receipt as it has a lifetime warranty. If I have any problems, I'll report them here.

      In terms of installing the replacement I was lucky that I had a longer bolt than the retainer bolt on the end. What I am trying to say is that the retainer bolt did not reach the threads in the axle. In order for me to get the axle pulled into the wheel bearing, I had to temporarily use a longer bolt with a stack of fat washers on it to pull the outside end of the CV axle into the wheel bearing. That was the only part that slowed me down a bit. Having a bolt an inch longer than the retaining bolt on the end was extremely helpful for this purpose.

    25. #23
      Junior Member Arch Stanton's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by V704me View Post
      I ended up getting part number 60-9254. Cost was 69.99. It looks identical to the original part. It is a reman. The new version had a completely different "bearing housing area" and even the axel itself looked different. The reman piece seemed like the way to go.
      Yes, remanufactured is a better idea than going new aftermarket. The remanufactured ones are more likely to be the OEM GKN rzeppa CV joints, as opposed to the cheaper tripod joint. mixing tripod & rzeppa joints seems like a recipe for more strain on the drivetrain, seeing that tripod joints are slightly more efficient.

    26. #24
      Member Paisley Pirate's Avatar
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      We just checked mine again last Saturday, thinking that I had a joint getting weak - feeling flex in the drivetrain, I thought... Turns out, it was the LCA bushings... the half shafts are fine. Granted, I haven't done a lot of 1/4 mile'ing or hard launches all over, but I do drive it and sometimes drive it pretty hard. They have lasted over a year now.
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    27. #25
      Junior Member NorthWestR's Avatar
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      I'm ~4 months in on my drivers side autozone tripod cv joint axle (part 10933N) and it's working like a champ, as is my rebuilt passenger side.

      I had to replace my passenger side CV boot again last weekend (I must have accidentally cut it somehow the first time I rebuilt the joint). Examined the rebuilt guts of the passenger side and they looked good still.
      Last edited by NorthWestR; 09-03-2014 at 12:36 PM.
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    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by V704me View Post
      I decided to try Napa. The axle they provided was wrong. It had a much larger shoulder on it than the original part and it would not slide even close to far enough into the transmission. I checked with Autozone per Paisley Pirate's advice. They seemed very unsure about getting the right part and they wanted me to pay for it up front. I decided to try O'Reilly. Talked to the oldest guy there. He was smart. He ordered all 3 versions he had in his warehouse so I could compare them all to my original piece. I ended up getting part number 60-9254. Cost was 69.99. It looks identical to the original part. It is a reman. The new version had a completely different "bearing housing area" and even the axel itself looked different. The reman piece seemed like the way to go. I'll keep my receipt as it has a lifetime warranty. If I have any problems, I'll report them here.

      In terms of installing the replacement I was lucky that I had a longer bolt than the retainer bolt on the end. What I am trying to say is that the retainer bolt did not reach the threads in the axle. In order for me to get the axle pulled into the wheel bearing, I had to temporarily use a longer bolt with a stack of fat washers on it to pull the outside end of the CV axle into the wheel bearing. That was the only part that slowed me down a bit. Having a bolt an inch longer than the retaining bolt on the end was extremely helpful for this purpose.
      Sorry, just to be clear, the 60-9254 passenger side axle fits your 2007 6speed auto, correct? I'm trying to find a ps axle for mine to get rid of a vibration I'm hoping is the axle. It has a little play in it if I grab the short section and jiggle it forward-to-rear. Thanks!
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      Ok, stopped by O'Reilly and ordered the 60-9254 and the 60-9253 (that's the one their website says I need). They will both be in on Saturday and I'll post back up the results.
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    30. #28
      Junior Member thesternowl's Avatar
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      This is and interesting topic. I've got axle replacement in my near future and I've been under the impression that there are no proper aftermarket solutions for our caRs. Have I been misinformed? It sounds like the piecemeal approach that many have described above supports the OEM direction.
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      FWIW, auto zone's cross reference comes up with a cardone 6014N - $54.99 with no core charge. These axles seem to be decent quality and at a price where it's shook my worries.
      The site says the 6014N is not R compatible, but the 10933N says that too and is compatible with the M66 / R.

      m66 pass side: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=516774_0_0_
      m66 driver's side: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=516778_0_0_

    32. #30
      Junior Member NorthWestR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bkoerper View Post
      FWIW, auto zone's cross reference comes up with a cardone 6014N - $54.99 with no core charge. These axles seem to be decent quality and at a price where it's shook my worries.
      The site says the 6014N is not R compatible, but the 10933N says that too and is compatible with the M66 / R.

      m66 pass side: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=516774_0_0_
      m66 driver's side: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=516778_0_0_
      The 6014N/10933N is compatible with the M66 R because it is the drivers side axle. The passenger side is longer on the M66 R than it is on the M56 S60. So if you find a site selling a passenger side that says it fits both the M56 S60 and the M66 R, you can definitively say that it does not actually fit the M66 R.

      As noted above, the difference between the OEM M66 R drivers side axle and the OEM M56 S60 drivers side axle is the type of CV joint. The OEM R axle has a more robust Rzeppa joint, while the S60 has a less robust Tripod joint. However, the length & diameter of the axle is the same, so technically it fits, though you are getting a less robust part (manufacturing seems great on the Duralast, however). I'm now about 8 months in on a Duralast drivers side axle and have not had any issues.

      I can't speak to any fitment compatibility on the GT.
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    33. #31
      Junior Member thesternowl's Avatar
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      Perhaps the GT axles are the only ones that are OEM only??
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    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by musterdbom View Post
      Ok, stopped by O'Reilly and ordered the 60-9254 and the 60-9253 (that's the one their website says I need). They will both be in on Saturday and I'll post back up the results.
      UPDATE
      Both axles O'Reilly transferred in were wrong. The 60-9253 has the round cv joint like noted above and the 60-9254 has the correct flat sided joint but BOTH axles were 26 spline on the transmission end and about a half inch short. My 2006 auto axle has 28 splines on the transmission input side.

      I hope the guy with the 2007 didn't put the 9254 axle in with 26 splines as it would probably slide right in being shorter AND smaller in diameter. Probably wouldn't engage any of the transmission splines though!
      2006 V70R GT black/gobi - wheels, IPD swaybars
      1966 Mustang coupe - needs work

    35. #33
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      Tennessee
      Posts
      727
      Called CVJ axles out in Colorado, found them in this thread :https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-on-EMPI-axles.

      Quoted me 86 dollars to rebuild each of my front axles. From the reviews, it seems they do very good work. Also, the turnaround time is 1 day. So if you can afford to have your car out of commission for a few days, this seems like a great option!


      I will be getting both my driver and passenger side fronts done by them when I get home in November.
      2005 Red MT R| Dual CAI|Snabb Intake|OBX DP|Custom Exhaust Cut-out|Custom FMIC|AEM Stage 2 Water/Meth Injection| IPD HD Endlinks| Bob Villa Mod| Polyurethane Engine + Transmission Mounts| Prosport Evo Boost Gauge| Eibach Springs| Forge CBV|ARD TCV|Five-O 750cc Injectors|K24 Hybrid Turbo|Custom Tune|

    36. #34
      Junior Member NorthWestR's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      928
      Just an update. The Duralast 6014N/10933N drivers side axle has been going strong for 2 years in my 05 S60R M66. I'm starting to hear some popping when hard over on my passenger side now (the one I rebuilt using the OE driver's side guts).. So another passenger side rebuild is probably in my future.
      NorthWestR - Instagram
      2005 S60R | M66 | TICAMA | Stage 4 build under way..
      2006 V70R | TF-80 | TIKAP | Hilton Stage 2 | do88 FMIC | Ferrita DP | Heico Quad Tip Catback | TME VR Springs | UR Braces | IPD Track Sways | IPD Adjustable Toe Bars | IPD Camber Bushings [B]

    37. #35
      Member djkronik57's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      2,632
      Just to confirm the OEM part numbers, are these correct for 04-07 manual transmission?

      Passenger front: 8252051
      Driver front: 8601855
      2004 S60R MT - Sapphicama, Pictures, 285HP/[email protected], IPD Track Spec Sways, Autotech Stage 1 Tune, R Kelly CAI, GROM USB/iPod Audio Interface, IPD Strut Bar Conversion, UR Front and Rear Lower Braces, IPD HD Coils, 18x8 Axis XMX wheels, Volvotech CFE extender, CNT Downpipe, EST Touring Exhaust
      2008 Land Rover LR3 HSE

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