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    1. #1
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Question Let's talk about LUG-NUTS

      Aftermarket lug-nuts!

      You guys are going to think I'm crazy but I currently own AND use three sets of wheels. The reason has more to do with legacy than true need. I have winters on 16" OEM wheels, all season on 17" OEM wheels, and a nice true summer tire set on 18" aftermarket wheels which I do try to keep for the really nice weather days (quite pricey tires!). I couldn't care less of the 16" wheels if it wasn't for the fact the rubber is still good so I'll keep running it until it's time to change. I likely will say goodbye to the all seasons at that point but will keep running it on OEM wheels.

      So I’ve been playing around the idea to put spacers on my rear wheels. What has kept me from doing it is that I still want to be able to run my OEM wheels in the winter and I don’t plan on purchasing more wheels for now. With new longer studs I might very well need some open lugs.

      But here is the question:
      OEM lugs have a 25mm sitting cone diameter as opposed to the 21mm on aftermarket lugs. Cone angle seems to be the same 60°.
      Has anyone found/used aftermarket lug-nuts for OEM wheels? I’d like to stay within that 25mm cone diameter.
      I can’t use the typical 21mm since it is really undersized for the large holes on the OEM wheels.


      To make this thread more fun as well: What aftermarket lug-nuts is everyone using regardless of the OEM issue, lug-nuts you have used and really like?!!
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

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    3. #2
      Member daim's Avatar
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      Yes and they are no name. My borther has loads in his garage... They don't have a separate cone though...
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    4. #3
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by daim View Post
      Yes and they are no name. My borther has loads in his garage... They don't have a separate cone though...
      That has limited use . . .
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

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    6. #4
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Anyone? . . . Btw, are aftermarket lug-nuts safe to use with OEM wheels. I never quite understood why It would not other than using the wrong diameter size nuts . . . can anyone shed some lights on this? is it steel or is it aluminum that is bad to use on OEM wheels? Or it doesn't really matter?
      Last edited by TG; 03-18-2013 at 07:15 PM.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    7. #5
      Member Slasher's Avatar
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      I have open end lug nuts but they cannot be used with my oem wheels. The diameter is too small and simply fall thru the wheel holes. When oem (winter) I use the standard nuts.
      2006 V50 T5 AWD M66: 19" Heico's w/ Hankook & ISC Coilovers
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    8. #6
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Last edited by TG; 03-18-2013 at 07:45 PM.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    9. #7
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Slasher View Post
      I have open end lug nuts but they cannot be used with my oem wheels. The diameter is too small and simply fall thru the wheel holes. When oem (winter) I use the standard nuts.
      Don't you have spacers?
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    10. #8
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Stupid me... I just realized that if you have spacers (and tick one enough to recess completly the mounting bolts) you are probably keeping them with the OE wheels so the length of the studs is never an issue . . .

      I'm not sure I can do that since I probably wouldn't get overly thick spacers, 5mm-15mm. . . I'm not sure yet. I need to make some measurements with my wheels...
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    11. #9
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Some Good Lugs - like the dust shields - but I try to just get wheels with proper offset .
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    12. #10
      I run aftermarket lugs with my OEM wheels during the Winter. No issues whatsoever. The OEM lugs seem prone to corrosion so I don't use them any more. A small dab of anti-seize for peace of mind as well!

      Muteki closed-end lug nuts:




      I run some much nicer open-ended lugs with my after market wheels during the Summer.

    13. #11
      Member TG's Avatar
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      So Jess! are these 25mm dia or you just don't care? . . .

      If it wasn't clear I do have a set of aftermarket lugs for my aftermarket wheels but when I place those in the OEM wheel hole cavity there is not much overlaps. They're like 21mm dia. The hole might be something like 17/18 mm I don't exactly know. All I know is that it doesn't leave much overlap, or metal holding the wheel, with too great a risk for the OEM metal to bend out and studs to crack.

      I guess I was thinking I would not want to run my spacers with the OEM winter wheels but maybe I should reconsider . . . I like to keep things simple in the winter. Maybe it's not that much necessary.


      And what's the brand of your nicer lug-nuts?
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    14. #12
      I don't know their exact diameter but they're basically the same size as OEM. If they were too small, I wouldn't run the risk... so in short, yes of course I care!

    15. #13
      Member Jonxy's Avatar
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      it is recommended that you have 7 or more threads in contact when using lug nuts, if you have thick spacers, i would recommend you measure how much of the lugnut is in contact with the stud. this can be done several ways, the easiest would be to put a thin layer of lock tite on the threads of the stud and thread the stud with the spacer and wheel in place, then remove the lug nut and examine how much lock tite was left untouched.
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    16. #14
      I don't believe anti-seize is recommended because it can affect the torque value as it is applied to the nuts. I don't really know how true it is (seems to make sense as you could overtorque if it is acting as a lubricant). I am sure you could do a little research and either prove or disprove this theory.

      I had a large set of aftermarket lugs that came with my AEZ's from Germany. Recently when I switched over to the TSW's there was barely any room left in the hole for the socket and the tire shop gave me a set of slightly smaller Goilla's to use. The seat is smaller, but they sold me the wheels and the the opening in the wheel would seem to indicate that the manufacturer would approve of the smaller seat from a safety perspecive.

    17. #15
      Member TG's Avatar
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      No doubt anti-seize is not recommended but when you start snapping studs or cross threading them you have to say to yourself, the hell with recommendations!
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    18. #16
      Member daim's Avatar
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      I couldn't even dare think about doing that here! If my rim was to "pop off" whilst driving at 200 km/h (125 mph) because the torque setting was false due to anti seize paste etc., then ouch! I'll stick to my rusty studs with rusty (winter) nuts and will use Volvo's torque specs without any anti seize stuff.

      If I were to drive 65-75 mph tops, then "sod it" but as I for some reason lately exceed the 200 km/h quite commonly, I can't simply do that...
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    19. #17
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Ah, come-on Damien, that's ridiculous... Anti seize is not as oily as it sounds. It actually get more gummy as it gets hot.
      If you don't over do it (and that is important, a drop on the last thread suffice), check your torque often enough in the first week you won't ever have a problem.
      The key is probably to never use anti-seize with impact guns. That might do what you say...
      I'm not as slow as I should be on the road and never I have had issues with bolt loosening.
      That all said we all need to feel comfortable with any risk we take so I can appreciate that!
      Last edited by TG; 03-23-2013 at 03:06 PM.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    20. #18
      Member daim's Avatar
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      Even if it isn't "oily", it will probably make the torque reading false... And here where the insurances will find any reason not to pay for some accident, they even check the studs/screws for signs of wrong useage...

      But as you said: we all have a way we feel comfortable driving. I feel comfortable with lug nuts held in place due to the correct specs
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    21. #19
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by daim View Post
      they even check the studs/screws for signs of wrong usage...
      Tell that to the shop that will over torque your lugs with 100ft/bl because that's what their impact gun is set to...
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    22. #20
      Member daim's Avatar
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      Yeah, but they don't care. If the insurance can find something to blame the owner (no matter if it is his fault or not) then they will. And if you can then prove in court that it ISN'T your fault -> that is another hard thing.

      German saying: "Recht haben und Recht bekommen sind zwei unterschiedliche Dinge" (To have right and to be right are two different things)
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    23. #21
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Well, yes you are right but I'm also pretty sure insurance look for the cause of the accident as a top priority and I'd be surprised to found out most accident are caused by loosing a wheel to broken studs or loosened lug-nuts from bad practice by a users who care.

      Well at least that's how it works here...

      So yes if I was in an accident because my wheel falling off I might get in trouble (might!, they still have to prove it's because the stud was over torque due to anti-seize) but I feel pretty good that the odds that would happen are quite negligible. Just going to work everyday with all the none caring drivers out there will more likely be my case by a 1000 fold.

      In short I would probably not recommend someone to do this especially if they are not the best to care for the car but I certainly will keep doing it as I'm not going to let my self get broke by pooring cash unnecessarily
      Last edited by TG; 03-23-2013 at 03:31 PM.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    24. #22
      Member daim's Avatar
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      The problem is, this being the internet, some people take it for granted what others say. Gullable is what you could say. If I were to write "a tad of anti seize grease will stop corrosion" then you don't know what Bubba from Alabama (sorry, no stereotype intended, but that is just what shot to mind) might spread on his studs instead. Butter? Motor oil? High temperature grease? And then if something happens, even though he/she/it doesn't know you, you'll be at blame for writing something. I don't know how the US courts and justice system sees this, but here in Krautland you can end up in prison for writing something online which caused issues elsewhere... Really stupid laws here but hey, understandable...
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    25. #23
      Member TG's Avatar
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      I ear you!

      That's why we are having this discussion . . . to make sure everyone gets educated
      I always try to make sure people understand what risk they're taking when I give advice or simply share my experience. At least I try to . . . I won't say I don't ever forget to but I try and that's life
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    26. #24
      Member daim's Avatar
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      Hehe

      If we were in Germany at this moment, you'd best start every post with "If I remember correctly" or "As far as I know and this is not confirmed" or "Can someone confirm that..."
      If you read this, then you haven't understood, that my posting is above this text!

    27. #25
      Member TG's Avatar
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      LOL, I'd hate for SS do read like a patent application if you ever read one... I know we should all have disclaimers in our signatures.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    28. #26
      lol wow... I'm not making recommendations for how others should modify their cars, just saying what I do. The Volvo studs seem extremely prone to corrosion and I have a hell of a time breaking the lugs loose when I take the wheels the off. But to each his own... we're all responsible for our own actions when it comes to how we modify our cars.

    29. #27
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Definitely not . . . Jess, I'm trusting you 100% and will make you entirely responsible if I ever get in big trouble . . .
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    30. #28

    31. #29
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Moofluffen View Post
      Hater lol :P
      On the contrary. I only tease those who aren't going to take it the wrong way

      I realize now that it reads as if I wouldn't trust you. Not what I meant
      Last edited by TG; 03-25-2013 at 05:52 PM.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    32. #30
      Member Slasher's Avatar
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      The diameter of my open ended nuts is not much more than the holes but there is just no way they would pull through. As long as you are a couple two three mm's larger you are fine.
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    33. #31
      Member TG's Avatar
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      I know what you guys are saying but seriously the OEM wheel hole size is 21mm
      I'm not going to put a 22mm lug nuts on them

      Hey Jess, any chance you could measure your Muketi lug nuts at some point or know the part number because all I find are 22mm lug nuts diameters....


      I wanted to find some really nice closed end black ones and not too long for my OE wheels but so far no luck
      Last edited by TG; 03-25-2013 at 11:07 PM.
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    34. #32
      Junior Member AlaskanAWD's Avatar
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      I have been putting Permatex Anti-Seize on my wheel studs and the center hub since the fall of 2005 without a single issue, and I drive on rough Alaskan mountain roads every day (currently over 113,000 on the odometer). I swap between my summer and winter wheels/tires each change in season and clean up the studs and center hub then put a new coat of anti-seize so I can get them back off without breaking a stud. Taking the factory wheels off for the first time in the fall of '05 was a chore, the center hub was oxidized/corroded and I had to kick the heck out of the wheel many times to get it broke free, that is no longer an issue and I have never had a lug not come loose with proper torque
      2005 S40 T5 AWD, Barents Blue W/Silver Hood, Roof and Trunk, IPD Pegasus R Wheels, BFGoodrich g-Force COMP-2 A/S & Bridgestone Blizzak's
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    35. #33
      Member TG's Avatar
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      So no one else is using aftermarket lugs for their OE wheels?
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    36. #34
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Moofluffen View Post
      I run aftermarket lugs with my OEM wheels during the Winter. No issues whatsoever. The OEM lugs seem prone to corrosion so I don't use them any more. A small dab of anti-seize for peace of mind as well!

      Muteki closed-end lug nuts:




      I run some much nicer open-ended lugs with my after market wheels during the Summer.
      these look nice. im going to get a set of these

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    37. #35
      Member TG's Avatar
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      So I'm full of question tonight . . .

      Must there be different torque specification when using Aluminum, or forged aluminum, versus steel lug-nuts?
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

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