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    1. #351
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      Invalid attachment(s)

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    3. #352
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      Quote Originally Posted by craig300 View Post
      Invalid attachment(s)
      I am not sure what is going on. When I check the post the attachments are highlighted in blue and active. If you are logged in to Swedespeed and click on the attachments they should open in a separate window. Why they are not loading into the message window when it first opens must be some configuration problem. If clicking on the attachments doesn't force them to open, post back and I can try reloading the pictures.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    4. #353
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      Still not working. This is what I get.

      4EA95DFB-CB7D-4FEA-A61C-9CCA0EBF6C50.jpg

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    6. #354
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      I deleted and reattached the files. They appear to be linked correctly now.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    7. #355
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      I deleted and reattached the files. They appear to be linked correctly now.
      I can see them now, thx.

    8. #356
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      Coil mounting details for apico500

      The bracket is fabricated from 0.0625" thick, 2" aluminum angle from Lowes or Home Depot. The bracket is positioned by two tabs fabricated from 0.125" thick aluminum bent to position the bracket over the plugs and mounted under the retaining screws for the valve cover..

      Mounting tab.jpg

      The nose of the coils fits over the plugs. The two tabs combined with the coil connection to the plugs solidly positions the coils / brackets.

      Plug mounting.jpg

      The two mounting tabs are connected to the angle piece by four flush mounted rivets. The tabs started out as flat aluminum pieces which were bent 'by trial' to position the coils over the plugs.

      Bracket mounting.jpg

      I used a metal hole saw to cut clean holes in the angle to receive the coil bodies. The coils are held in place by 0.25" bolts and I used a rivnut in the angle piece to retain the bolt. The mounting ear on the coil sits about 0.1 - 0.2" above the angle so to keep everything square there is a thin nylon spacer under the ear. I can't remember the exact thickness.

      Coil mounting.jpg

      The plugs on the Denso coil have four wires (Br - Grnd, Various colors - coil trigger, Blu/Yel - tach signal, Blk/Wh - +12 volts). The coil trigger gets the signal from MS. The tach signal is part of the OBDII misfire detection system and is unused. I de pinned the Bly/Yel wire from the plug and filled the hole with RTV silicon to seal it from moisture.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 11-18-2019 at 01:33 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    9. #357
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      How did you setup your megasquirt to read an external MAP? Does tunerstudio allow you to select other channels that the PCB mounted MAP sensor? Obviously, there are a few spare channels that the external map can be wired up through.
      Lesky
      '73 164E

    10. #358
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      How did you setup your megasquirt to read an external MAP? Does tunerstudio allow you to select other channels that the PCB mounted MAP sensor? Obviously, there are a few spare channels that the external map can be wired up through.
      No adjustment required. I never installed the Motorola / Freescale / NXP / whatever their name is today in the MS case. I mounted the supplied MPX 4250 MAP sensor on a small piece of circuit board inside a water resistant case and mounted it approximately where the Volvo MAP sensor was located. I used a Deutsche 3 pin sealed connector for the connection. The whole idea of running a hose from the manifold back through the firewall and under the carpet to the area below the passenger seat where the MS is installed seemed like a bad idea - lots of opportunity for pinched hoses. I used the SPR3 free pins on the DB connector for the MAP signal line and ran a jumper to the old sensor location on the circuit board, poached the +5v off of the TPS +5v pin on the DB connector and ran the MAP ground to one of the ground pins on the DB connector.

      That said, you don't need to use the MPX sensor. If you can find a nice weather tight 3 pin sensor that is convenient to use the Tuner Studio Tools / Calibrate MAP window allows you to use just about any sensor in the world. If you don't want to use one of the preset values in the window you can do a custom entry. All you need is the pressure sensor values that give 0 and 5 volts out. Bosch has some nice small ones that mount right on the intake manifold - I think VW & Audi uses them.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    11. #359
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      Wow nice work! I've missed quite a bit during my hiatus.

    12. #360
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Wow nice work! I've missed quite a bit during my hiatus.
      Indeed! Where have you been? Last I recall was the discussion on your compression test numbers.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    13. #361
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      Well, finally decided on a single life again and also have been trying to moving forwards on building a home where I have space for all these hobbies. I've been crammed in a driveway and two car garage for far too long!! And yes, I ran some compression tests then decided to pull the rocker arm assembly to replace the valve stem seals and get the injectors sent off then the large Volvo experienced a brake failure that I am still beating my head over...so still in progress. haha

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Indeed! Where have you been? Last I recall was the discussion on your compression test numbers.

    14. #362
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      Great work man. It's sad I am a fan of the large Volvo wheel since this means I would be cussing in short order on long drives.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      A little follow-up on the installation.

      It still works; but, its not like I have been driving it a lot, in part because it has been quite hot here (black interior - no AC). I got to thinking about the level of base assist provided by the Versa EPAS unit and also thinking back to the salvage of the unit from the wrecked Versa. It so happens that the tire sizes on the Versa match what I am using on my 142 (185/65 15). So contact patch / drag on turning when parked should be similar (absent differences in camber and caster). The mechanical ratio of the Versa rack versus the Volvo box is an unknown; but, it might be a reasonable guess that the Versa rack might be faster (less mechanical advantage). My recollection from the salvage operation was also that the Versa steering wheel was very small in diameter, perhaps 13". As such, the base assist on the Versa is likely set up for a small steering wheel with a rack that may have a lower mechanical advantage. This may account for what I perceive as a steering effort that is bordering on the light side at highway speeds.

      Unless you are willing to try a rack and pinion installation, you can't really do anything about the Volvo steering box ratios. However, if you are considering the EPAS installation on your 140, I definitely recommend that you ditch the Volvo steering wheel. The Versa lower steering section that replaces the Volvo flexy collapsible thingy does make steering more direct. After some additional driving, I think the stock Volvo hoola hoop steering wheel would make steering on the highway very tiring - too much mechanical advantage. I have an ancient Moto Litta steering wheel. I don't know how Moto Litta specs its diameters; but, the outside diameter is somewhere between 14 - 15 ". Based upon my experience, a steering wheel in the order of 13" might be more pleasant at highway speeds. If you are also running 185 tires the Versa EPAS provides enough assistance that the parking maneuvers will still be quite comfortable with the 13 " wheel.

      The other experimental option is to consider is increasing the amount of caster angle. Increasing caster does tend to increase self aligning when travelling forward at speed. However, I have not thought through the potential negative effects of increased caster.
      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    15. #363
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      Thank you. I've been going through the mega manual over the last few weeks trying to visualize how to wire up the external MAP. Indeed, I found a common MAP that I want to use to facilitate changing out bad ones easier. I don't want to crack open the ECU just to replace a MAP.
      Lesky
      '73 164E

    16. #364
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      I read a note in a Speedhut manual that says that their gauges do not go to zero when you power off. Is that true? How do your gauges respond to power cycles? A rep told me that the gauges will hold the last value until powered back on. Then, they'll pull to zero and begin reading again.
      Lesky
      '73 164E

    17. #365
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      Where did you mount your 02 sensor - pre or post the first bend in the down tube? Photobucket has blurred out all of your earlier photos.
      Lesky
      '73 164E

    18. #366
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      Thank you. I've been going through the mega manual over the last few weeks trying to visualize how to wire up the external MAP. Indeed, I found a common MAP that I want to use to facilitate changing out bad ones easier. I don't want to crack open the ECU just to replace a MAP.
      The mega manual won't provide any help. I soldered jumpers into the 3 holes on the PCB where the MAP mounts and ran those 3 jumpers to the db37 to provide external access. I built for a kit so I never bothered to mount the MAP on the PCB making the wiring easier.

      There may be another more convoluted way to do this. If you want, the MSExtra code supports connecting a second MAP sensor to allow for continuous collection of atmospheric air pressure to allow for real time barometric correction of the fuel map. The settings for doing this are in the general settings in Tuner Studio. I expect that in the firmware you could alter the code to switch the logical ports for the barro and manifold sensors allowing you to use the second sensor as the manifold sensor and the sensor on the board as the barro sensor. This does involve finding the correct code lines in the source code, modifying them, recompiling the code and reloading it onto your board. I did this when I modified the firmware to allow voltage correction on my PWM idle air valve during start up. Took me about a week to find / edit/ recompile and reload and that was only two lines of code. Doing the barro switch may be more involved. If you do get the firmware sorted, you still need to open the case to get access to the two JS solder points for the external sensor. If you don't want to open the case, then you have to go with the hose from the MS2 case to the manifold and be careful with the routing of the hose.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    19. #367
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      I read a note in a Speedhut manual that says that their gauges do not go to zero when you power off. Is that true? How do your gauges respond to power cycles? A rep told me that the gauges will hold the last value until powered back on. Then, they'll pull to zero and begin reading again.
      Definitely the oil, gas temperature and voltage do not drop to zero when powering down. When I power up, oil and temperature definitely drop to the bottom if the engine is cold. I can't remember whether the fuel and voltage go to zero and then return to fuel level and 12 volts. I think they might because I know you can briefly hear the servo motors run in the gauge on power up. I have had them for long enough now that I really don't pay attention to that stuff anymore. Unfortunately, car is wrapped up in winter storage so I can't go and check
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    20. #368
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      Where did you mount your 02 sensor - pre or post the first bend in the down tube? Photobucket has blurred out all of your earlier photos.
      I have the IPD / Patriot 4/1 header. I mounted the O2 sensor in the adapter piece that bolts up to the collector on the header. The down side to mounting the sensor in the adapter piece is that it is getting fairly far back where space is getting a little tight for the sensor next to the transmission and definitely too tight to fit the sensor on the side facing the transmission tunnel. Net effect is that my sensor probably sits somewhere between the 9:00 and 9:30 position on the adapter when looking forward. I think Bosch recommends 10:00 - 02:00 to minimize the risk of moisture getting in the sensor on start up.

      Mounting in the collector or the adapter is the only real option on a header since you want blended gas from all 4 cylinders.

      Make absolutely sure that the sensor only gets powered up when the engine is running. Having a separate relay to power up the O2 sensor which is controlled by the same signal for the fuel pump relay works. So does powering it up directly off of the fuel pump relay as long as you fuse them separately (I dislike this because it increases the possibility of electrical noise from the motor influencing the u processor in the O2 controller. Powering up the O2 sensor before the motor starts can result in moisture from the start up exhaust hitting the hot sensor which can destroy it.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    21. #369
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      What about the tachometer? Does it fall to zero when you key off?

      Also, did you switch to the 14point7 spartan 2 controllers?
      Last edited by Lesky; 02-01-2020 at 09:24 PM.
      Lesky
      '73 164E

    22. #370
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      What about the tachometer? Does it fall to zero when you key off?

      Also, did you switch to the 14point7 spartan 2 controllers?
      I think the tach drops to zero; but, to be honest I am not sure. I rarely check the dash during start-up. If the red out-of-limit lights on the gauges go out after start up everything is good and I don't really pay attention to the other stuff. It will be spring before I can check to confirm what the tach actually does.

      Yes, I am currently running the Spartan 2. Fair warning, my original Spartan 2 quit after a couple of months of operation. I contacted 14point7 and after confirming the details of the failure they sent me a replacement controller without issue via expedited post. They didn't ask for the old controller back so I opened up the controller packaging and discovered that the solder joint for the incoming power wire to the controller board had failed - it appeared to be a cold solder joint or incomplete soldering. I resoldered all the wires, made a better strain relief for the wires and then sealed the board up in a new cover made from some ultra heavy double-wall heat shrink. I also re terminated the LSU plug on an extension which allowed me to relocate the controller inside the car. I put that original controller back into the car and have been running on it without further issue. The replacement controller is wrapped up and sitting in a box - someplace.

      If you plan to use Spartan 2 to drive a dash display in addition to input to your EFI, be aware that you pretty much need to use the 14point7 display. 14point7 uses an odd voltage range. Not a problem, just something to be aware of. Not an issue for MS2 because the O2 sensor voltage range is configurable in Tuner Studio.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    23. #371
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      When I rebuilt my 142, I installed new engine and transmission mounts. From the get go the engine mounts struck me as being quite flexible allowing quite a bit of engine movement when the engine catches on start-up along with side to side movement of the shift lever. I also had the occasional bang which as far as I could determine was from the header hitting the lower suspension pivot. The transmission mount also sheared after 1 or 2 years. Both the engine and transmission mounts were purchased from IPD and installed around 2014.

      I know people have talked about using the B30 engine mounts on the B20, the reason being that he B30 mounts being 'heavier / more durable'. However, there were mixed messages about whether the B30 mounts would fit on the B20 in the 140. It seemed odd that the non fit issue seemed to be specific to the 140. When I recently ordered my replacement trunk struts from CVI, I decided to include some B30 engine mounts in the order. CVI had a better price than all the other vendors I checked. When I received the mounts it was apparent that the studs on both sides of the B30 mount are the same length. On the 140, they are asymmetrical with one stud being longer by about 1/4 - 3/8". This allows for the extra thickness in the aluminum bracket that attaches to the engine. The studs are on the short side to accept a conventional nylock nut and washer on the aluminum mount on the engine. The stud is not really long enough to allow for good engagement with the nylon. Clearly no problem on the side that attaches to the cross member. By substituting an ultrathin hardened washer (grade 8 or 12) for the original washer on the top side I was able to get a conventional nylock nut on the stud and have the stud threads engage the nylon. Normally I would prefer to have about 1.5 - 2 threads exposed past the end of the nylon to absolutely confirm complete engagement. Right now the end of the stud is just projecting past the nylon. The hot ticket would be to get two low profile / jam nut style nylock fasteners. This would give you the desired 1-2 threads projecting past the end of the fastener. The jam style nylock nuts are available in the correct size for a reasonable price (
      The B30 mounts are the same thickness, diameter and stud diameter/thread size as the B20 mounts so are an easy fit. The B30 mounts fixed my exhaust header banging on things due to engine movement problem and the 1971 super long shift lever no longer waves around due to engine movement. However, some of that movement may have been due to the fact that the engine mount on the passenger side had completely sheered on one of the mounting plates.

      Engine mount.jpg

      The 140 mounts have been in the car since 2014 and I consider failure after 6 years of relatively light use rather premature. However, the failure is similar to the failure I had on the transmission mount so perhaps there was a quality control problem. There has always been quite a bit of engine motion with the mounts, so I don't know whether the failure was very early or just recent. The failure was on the passenger side of the engine and showed some surface deterioration in the rubber so exhaust heat may have contributed to the failure. Compared to the B20 mounts the rubber on the B30 mounts is much, much stiffer than the B20 mounts which are jello-like in comparison. The B30 mounts definitely transmit more engine vibration to the body and I immediately developed some new rattles including the front grill which now buzzes at idle. I am clearly going to have to do a little work with some isolation mounts.

      Fix one problem, create two new problems!
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 04-12-2020 at 12:18 AM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    24. #372
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      Short form of the question - does anybody know of an aftermarket trim clip that can substitute for the Volvo 679898 trim clip that holds the trim on around the front cowl on the 140?

      The details
      I have been tracking down all the buzzes that emerged after I installed the B30 engine mounts. One of the buzzes originates from the lower trim strip that surrounds the opening around the front cowl. It turns out a couple of the plastic retainers that hold the trim strip have gone missing allowing a gap between the trim strip and the body which results in the trim strip vibrating. In addition to replacements for the missing retainers I expect that the existing retainers will fracture when I remove the trim strip to install the new retainers so I am probably looking at needing 4 - 6 new retainers (the parts manual does no spec quantities).

      The Volvo part # is 679898 and the part is still available from Volvo. The Volvo price is about $5 each and there is no local dealer so I am looking at shipping costs on top of that. The vintage suppliers have them for a slightly more reasonable price; but, same deal with shipping costs and some vendors are now implementing handling costs if the order does not exceed a certain value.

      I figured that there must be an aftermarket equivalent for 679898; however, Auveco who sells lots of this stuff does not cross list a part. I started looking at their catalogue to see if I could spot an equivalent part; but, their catalogue has approximately 170 pages just for trim clips on import cars - that search ended fairly quickly. So, long form of the question - does anybody have an equivalent?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    25. #373
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      I'm sorry if I missed this going back through your thread. Where did you mount your IAT? You mentioned in a different thread that you did not use the Djet core support location. Did you mount it right into the intake manifold? That seems like the obvious answer.
      Lesky
      '73 164E

    26. #374
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      I'm sorry if I missed this going back through your thread. Where did you mount your IAT? You mentioned in a different thread that you did not use the Djet core support location. Did you mount it right into the intake manifold? That seems like the obvious answer.
      Yes, its in the manifold where the D jet cold start injector was located.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...=1#post2399888

      I used a GM style open element temperature sensor which required that I drill out and tap the opening for the cold start injector to fit the GM sensor.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    27. #375
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      After a little driving around, I think am giving the B30 mounts on a B20 1.5 thumbs down. The mounts cured the shift lever movement and header tapping on the suspension pivot problem; but, they are way too buzzy. Driving down the road at 50 km/hr there are lots of parts buzzing that never buzzed before. It has been cool here
      Does anybody have a line on good B20 mounts? CVI sells aftermarket mounts (that look just like the failed mount got from IPD) and they sell mounts they list Volvo Genuine. Has anybody tried the latter? A lot of the aftermarket mounts look like they were fabricated in somebodies garage using low quality pourable PU.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    28. #376
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      I think I commented on your TB post but after reading your latest post I realize I've had the same experience. I didn't know the super stiff mounts I had were for the B30 but they must be- the threaded ends are the same length and just a hair short for the engine side.

      When I installed my rebuilt engine last spring I had a selection of 3 or 4 sets of mounts that I'd ordered from various suppliers (VP, Rock Auto, IPD, etc) and I grabbed the stiffest ones. These I could barely dig my fingernail in. At first start up the first thing I noticed was all the vibration. I went through my stash again but the next softer ones were really soft like I could squeeze them between my fingers. I installed them anyway and after experiencing the stiff mounts, the squishy ones had to go. The engine movement was bad enough that I think my alternator was hitting something when the engine would catch just after cranking. So back with the stiff ones and on the bright side I think it's mellowed a little.

      All this to say, I'd be interested in good B20 mounts too.

    29. #377
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      Quote Originally Posted by thispunter View Post
      So back with the stiff ones and on the bright side I think it's mellowed a little.
      Or like the frog in boiling water trope you have just become used to it . I have yet to bite the bullet on the CVI 'Volvo Genuine' mounts. Right now the minimum shipping and low order value adder exceeds the cost of the mounts. I need to find some other stuff that I need to help rationalize the order. I am also a little concerned that neither Volvo or GCP list part 273910 so what does Volvo Genuine mean?

      Skandix sells two versions of the B20 mount, a regular and a heavy duty version. The picture of the heavy duty version looks just like a regular B20 mount and they are the same price and they have the same part number. They don't specify whether heavy duty means stiffer or more durable. Skandix's prices and shipping are a little bit higher than CVI.

      What to do, what to do!
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    30. #378
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      142g;

      I found the "164 mounts" PN? IPD offered long ago, with the hexplate on one side, to be higher durometer rubber and hold the engines of both my Amazon and 1800 well and without noticeably excessive vibration of the car (but as you note, it IS a function of what one is used to also...).

      If the engine is arockin' and arollin' just when starting, when the mounts are new, I wouldn't like it much...I could only imagine what it would be doing when I'm thrashing the drivetrain while im "Driving it like I hated it!", so I'd go with something with higher durometer (probably called heavy-duty?).

      Cheers

    31. #379
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      More Covid 19 'idle hands'.

      I had noted some time ago that I was pretty sure that I had the B20F head gasket in my B20E engine. When I rebuilt the engine 6+ years ago I ordered the Elring FI top end kit and subsequently heard that even though I specified 1971 all the Elring FI kits came with F gaskets. Having nothing else to do I decided to fix this by ordering an Elring B20B gasket. Elring lists this as a 0.028" compressed height gasket which is the correct compressed height for the B20E gasket.

      My son and I R&R the head last weekend. I discovered that to pull the head you really need to drain all the coolant from the block using the block drain, not just siphon everything out of the rad. Even though the rad was empty there was enough coolant in the head and block to slosh into the cylinders and head bolt holes when we pulled the head. That made for some nifty clean out and drying of the head bolt holes, careful clean out of the cylinders and an unplanned oil and filter change.

      I did a quick check on the head gasket that we removed with my micrometer and the thickness came out at around 0.044" The F gasket is supposed to have an uncompressed / compressed thickness of 0.047" / 0.039" according to Elring so I don't know whether my 0.044" measurement was flakey, a sign of rebound in the gasket material or I had some odd gasket. The E and B head gasket is supposed to be 0.031"/0.028" according to the factory service manual. I took a quick read on the B gasket and it measured out at 0.043 uncompressed. So thinner than the compressed height of what I had in there; but, a lot thicker than 0.031" listed in the factory service manual for uncompressed height.

      Assuming that the compressed heights in the service manual are correct, the change in compression ratio is tiny. With my 0.030 overbore the F gasket gave me a static CR of 10.3:1 and the B/E gasket gives 10.6:1 which is a 3% increase. I don't expect a direct improvement in performance; but, I am hoping the reduction in quench space might improve the detonation resistance of the engine.

      The stock B20E ignition advance curve with 10 deg of static advance gives total advances of:
      20 deg (1600-1900 RPM)
      30 deg (2400 - 2750 RPM)
      35 deg at 3000 RPM.

      Right now I have wide open throttle advance programmed to:
      18 deg (2200 RPM)
      27 deg (2500 RPM)
      31 deg (3000 RPM).
      At slightly lower throttle openings I use 24 deg at 2200 RPM. Maximum advance at manifold pressures above 50 kpa is limited to 32 deg.

      My advance setting are based upon no perceptible detonation with 91 octane fuel (slightly less than Volvo's recommended 92). I made no attempt to test to see if I could run slightly higher advances - closer to what the original B20E curve would have been. Now that I have the presumably correct gasket thickness with a tighter squish I am going to slowly increase the advances to try and bring them closer to the factory values.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    32. #380
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      Ran into a problem while doing some errands this morning. After about 20 km without issue I pulled into a shop to pick up a tool. On coming out, starting up, maneuvering around the lot and pulling out of the lot everything was fine until I came to the first stop sign. Shifted into neutral at the stop and when I went to shift back into 1st it was exceedingly hard to get back into gear. Next intersection same thing so I proceeded home in the most direct fashion.

      While driving home I was thinking damaged shifter / selection forks for the problem to have occurred so fast. However, I am less convinced that it was the shift forks because it is just about equally hard to get into any gear. That is why I also dismissed a synchro problem. When I got home I had a look at the clutch and there did seem to be some excessive play so I adjusted the cable to remove some of the slack. This seems to have eliminated the problem. Having the problem materialize so quickly has me concerned that the release fork may have cracked and is gradually bending - adding free play and that the problem will re emerge if the fork continues to bend (which it will). I have not removed the rubber cover to see if I can inspect the fork yet. I did drive around a bit shifting perhaps 30 times and the problem did not seem to reappear. The transmission noise is normal and there are no new noises coming from the clutch mechanism.

      Aside from a cracked / bending release fork, is there anything on the clutch throw out bearing or the way it engages the diaphragm spring that could cause a bunch of free play to emerge? The release fork is original (I inspected it for damage when I redid the car), the clutch has less than 10,000 km on it and the clutch cable is only 2 or 3 years old. Any insight?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    33. #381
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      Apr 2016
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      142G;

      Following!...and interested in what you find to be the cause of rapidly occurring increase in lost motion of the Throwout Bearing...fractured and bending Throwout Fork or stretching Cable are naturally my first two thoughts (see: https://www.sw-em.com/Clutch_-_cable..._failure_modes )...I have heard of "collapsed" Throwout Bearings, but I don't know if it was on a Volvo/Borg&Beck/Fichtel&Sachs, and have no further details (I expect that to be accompanied by some sort of noises) ...

      Good Hunting!

    34. #382
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      After I got home, I did check the cable for signs of damage at either end even though it is relatively new. I particularly looked at the clevis where it connects to the pedal. Cable appears fine. I still want to pop the clutch fork cover off of the bell housing to see if I can spot any obvious issues with the fork; however, right now my garage has been taken over by my son's RSX with some engine work with a time budget that is mimicking the federal Covid 19 deficit. The 142 is out on a gravel drive that is crushed rock which is very pokey on your back.

      Is it possible for one of the pins on the fork that engages the throw-out bearing to snap off and still have the fork work? I would think that the missing pin would cause the fork to twist and become inoperative right away. Until I get my garage space back, I have adjusted out the slack and will drive around monitoring for increasing clutch pedal play and listen for emerging noises.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    35. #383
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      Apr 2016
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      142G;

      The pins which engage the flanks of Throwout Bearing are substantial, and I've never heard of an incident of them loosening or worse...cables can fail in the sheath due to friction and not at the ends (I realize cable is "relatively new").

      I don't have any further ideas...clearly some troubleshooting is called for...how about measuring/marking the action of cable and fork to see which one is changing...that could help you "divide and conquer"...

      Good Hunting!

    36. #384
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      After adjustment and a week and a bit of use the clutch problem seems to have gone away. I have not pulled the clutch boot to see if I can find anything amiss; but, I will monitor for increasing pedal play. I have to get under there at some point to deal with a flakey reverse light switch so I may have a closer look when I do the switch replacement.

      However, I have a newish problem. I have the mile long shift lever. Inside the lever are two rubber bushings and it has become apparent that mine have lost their youthfulness - the external chrome housing rotates very easily around the actual shift lever and is starting to get a trifle floppy. The actual shift lever remains quite firm - no obvious signs of wear on the top cover pins. I have checked around and as far as I can determine replacement rubber bushings are not available.

      I can't be the first person to encounter this problem, so what is the fix? Fill the outer chrome tube up with polyurethane?
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    37. #385
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2016
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      13
      Going back in time to April and your B30 engine mount post.....

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      When I received the mounts it was apparent that the studs on both sides of the B30 mount are the same length. On the 140, they are asymmetrical with one stud being longer by about 1/4 - 3/8". This allows for the extra thickness in the aluminum bracket that attaches to the engine. The studs are on the short side to accept a conventional nylock nut and washer on the aluminum mount on the engine. The stud is not really long enough to allow for good engagement with the nylon. Clearly no problem on the side that attaches to the cross member. By substituting an ultrathin hardened washer (grade 8 or 12) for the original washer on the top side I was able to get a conventional nylock nut on the stud and have the stud threads engage the nylon. Normally I would prefer to have about 1.5 - 2 threads exposed past the end of the nylon to absolutely confirm complete engagement. Right now the end of the stud is just projecting past the nylon. The hot ticket would be to get two low profile / jam nut style nylock fasteners. This would give you the desired 1-2 threads projecting past the end of the fastener. The jam style nylock nuts are available in the correct size for a reasonable price (

      There is another alternative for the upper mounting nylon nuts, Hi-Strength Steel Nylock Nuts.

      Since the 'stud' length issue is on the top side of the mount, the primary load on that side of the mount is in compression (with the weight of the engine bearing down on the mount isolator). As a result there is not a huge vertical load that must be secured by the nut, even taking the vertical torque reaction side of the engine. Hence the nut basically only needs to be able to keep the isolator in place. As a result the thinner nylok nut in the link is likely adequate for this application.

      Just something to think about next time your in there working around the motor mounts.....

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