What! Another 142 Project Car? - Page 11
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    1. #351
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      Invalid attachment(s)

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    3. #352
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      Quote Originally Posted by craig300 View Post
      Invalid attachment(s)
      I am not sure what is going on. When I check the post the attachments are highlighted in blue and active. If you are logged in to Swedespeed and click on the attachments they should open in a separate window. Why they are not loading into the message window when it first opens must be some configuration problem. If clicking on the attachments doesn't force them to open, post back and I can try reloading the pictures.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    4. #353
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      Still not working. This is what I get.

      4EA95DFB-CB7D-4FEA-A61C-9CCA0EBF6C50.jpg

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    6. #354
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      I deleted and reattached the files. They appear to be linked correctly now.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    7. #355
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      I deleted and reattached the files. They appear to be linked correctly now.
      I can see them now, thx.

    8. #356
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      Coil mounting details for apico500

      The bracket is fabricated from 0.0625" thick, 2" aluminum angle from Lowes or Home Depot. The bracket is positioned by two tabs fabricated from 0.125" thick aluminum bent to position the bracket over the plugs and mounted under the retaining screws for the valve cover..

      Mounting tab.jpg

      The nose of the coils fits over the plugs. The two tabs combined with the coil connection to the plugs solidly positions the coils / brackets.

      Plug mounting.jpg

      The two mounting tabs are connected to the angle piece by four flush mounted rivets. The tabs started out as flat aluminum pieces which were bent 'by trial' to position the coils over the plugs.

      Bracket mounting.jpg

      I used a metal hole saw to cut clean holes in the angle to receive the coil bodies. The coils are held in place by 0.25" bolts and I used a rivnut in the angle piece to retain the bolt. The mounting ear on the coil sits about 0.1 - 0.2" above the angle so to keep everything square there is a thin nylon spacer under the ear. I can't remember the exact thickness.

      Coil mounting.jpg

      The plugs on the Denso coil have four wires (Br - Grnd, Various colors - coil trigger, Blu/Yel - tach signal, Blk/Wh - +12 volts). The coil trigger gets the signal from MS. The tach signal is part of the OBDII misfire detection system and is unused. I de pinned the Bly/Yel wire from the plug and filled the hole with RTV silicon to seal it from moisture.
      Last edited by 142 Guy; 11-18-2019 at 02:33 PM.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    9. #357
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      How did you setup your megasquirt to read an external MAP? Does tunerstudio allow you to select other channels that the PCB mounted MAP sensor? Obviously, there are a few spare channels that the external map can be wired up through.
      Lesky
      '58 PV444
      '73 164E

    10. #358
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      How did you setup your megasquirt to read an external MAP? Does tunerstudio allow you to select other channels that the PCB mounted MAP sensor? Obviously, there are a few spare channels that the external map can be wired up through.
      No adjustment required. I never installed the Motorola / Freescale / NXP / whatever their name is today in the MS case. I mounted the supplied MPX 4250 MAP sensor on a small piece of circuit board inside a water resistant case and mounted it approximately where the Volvo MAP sensor was located. I used a Deutsche 3 pin sealed connector for the connection. The whole idea of running a hose from the manifold back through the firewall and under the carpet to the area below the passenger seat where the MS is installed seemed like a bad idea - lots of opportunity for pinched hoses. I used the SPR3 free pins on the DB connector for the MAP signal line and ran a jumper to the old sensor location on the circuit board, poached the +5v off of the TPS +5v pin on the DB connector and ran the MAP ground to one of the ground pins on the DB connector.

      That said, you don't need to use the MPX sensor. If you can find a nice weather tight 3 pin sensor that is convenient to use the Tuner Studio Tools / Calibrate MAP window allows you to use just about any sensor in the world. If you don't want to use one of the preset values in the window you can do a custom entry. All you need is the pressure sensor values that give 0 and 5 volts out. Bosch has some nice small ones that mount right on the intake manifold - I think VW & Audi uses them.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    11. #359
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      Wow nice work! I've missed quite a bit during my hiatus.

    12. #360
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      Quote Originally Posted by Brandom View Post
      Wow nice work! I've missed quite a bit during my hiatus.
      Indeed! Where have you been? Last I recall was the discussion on your compression test numbers.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    13. #361
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      Well, finally decided on a single life again and also have been trying to moving forwards on building a home where I have space for all these hobbies. I've been crammed in a driveway and two car garage for far too long!! And yes, I ran some compression tests then decided to pull the rocker arm assembly to replace the valve stem seals and get the injectors sent off then the large Volvo experienced a brake failure that I am still beating my head over...so still in progress. haha

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Indeed! Where have you been? Last I recall was the discussion on your compression test numbers.

    14. #362
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      Great work man. It's sad I am a fan of the large Volvo wheel since this means I would be cussing in short order on long drives.

      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      A little follow-up on the installation.

      It still works; but, its not like I have been driving it a lot, in part because it has been quite hot here (black interior - no AC). I got to thinking about the level of base assist provided by the Versa EPAS unit and also thinking back to the salvage of the unit from the wrecked Versa. It so happens that the tire sizes on the Versa match what I am using on my 142 (185/65 15). So contact patch / drag on turning when parked should be similar (absent differences in camber and caster). The mechanical ratio of the Versa rack versus the Volvo box is an unknown; but, it might be a reasonable guess that the Versa rack might be faster (less mechanical advantage). My recollection from the salvage operation was also that the Versa steering wheel was very small in diameter, perhaps 13". As such, the base assist on the Versa is likely set up for a small steering wheel with a rack that may have a lower mechanical advantage. This may account for what I perceive as a steering effort that is bordering on the light side at highway speeds.

      Unless you are willing to try a rack and pinion installation, you can't really do anything about the Volvo steering box ratios. However, if you are considering the EPAS installation on your 140, I definitely recommend that you ditch the Volvo steering wheel. The Versa lower steering section that replaces the Volvo flexy collapsible thingy does make steering more direct. After some additional driving, I think the stock Volvo hoola hoop steering wheel would make steering on the highway very tiring - too much mechanical advantage. I have an ancient Moto Litta steering wheel. I don't know how Moto Litta specs its diameters; but, the outside diameter is somewhere between 14 - 15 ". Based upon my experience, a steering wheel in the order of 13" might be more pleasant at highway speeds. If you are also running 185 tires the Versa EPAS provides enough assistance that the parking maneuvers will still be quite comfortable with the 13 " wheel.

      The other experimental option is to consider is increasing the amount of caster angle. Increasing caster does tend to increase self aligning when travelling forward at speed. However, I have not thought through the potential negative effects of increased caster.
      1971 Volvo 142e
      1974 SAAB Sonett III
      1975 Volvo C303 / TGB11
      1977 International Scout II
      2016 Toyota 4-Runner Trail

    15. #363
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      Thank you. I've been going through the mega manual over the last few weeks trying to visualize how to wire up the external MAP. Indeed, I found a common MAP that I want to use to facilitate changing out bad ones easier. I don't want to crack open the ECU just to replace a MAP.
      Lesky
      '58 PV444
      '73 164E

    16. #364
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      I read a note in a Speedhut manual that says that their gauges do not go to zero when you power off. Is that true? How do your gauges respond to power cycles? A rep told me that the gauges will hold the last value until powered back on. Then, they'll pull to zero and begin reading again.
      Lesky
      '58 PV444
      '73 164E

    17. #365
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      Where did you mount your 02 sensor - pre or post the first bend in the down tube? Photobucket has blurred out all of your earlier photos.
      Lesky
      '58 PV444
      '73 164E

    18. #366
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      Thank you. I've been going through the mega manual over the last few weeks trying to visualize how to wire up the external MAP. Indeed, I found a common MAP that I want to use to facilitate changing out bad ones easier. I don't want to crack open the ECU just to replace a MAP.
      The mega manual won't provide any help. I soldered jumpers into the 3 holes on the PCB where the MAP mounts and ran those 3 jumpers to the db37 to provide external access. I built for a kit so I never bothered to mount the MAP on the PCB making the wiring easier.

      There may be another more convoluted way to do this. If you want, the MSExtra code supports connecting a second MAP sensor to allow for continuous collection of atmospheric air pressure to allow for real time barometric correction of the fuel map. The settings for doing this are in the general settings in Tuner Studio. I expect that in the firmware you could alter the code to switch the logical ports for the barro and manifold sensors allowing you to use the second sensor as the manifold sensor and the sensor on the board as the barro sensor. This does involve finding the correct code lines in the source code, modifying them, recompiling the code and reloading it onto your board. I did this when I modified the firmware to allow voltage correction on my PWM idle air valve during start up. Took me about a week to find / edit/ recompile and reload and that was only two lines of code. Doing the barro switch may be more involved. If you do get the firmware sorted, you still need to open the case to get access to the two JS solder points for the external sensor. If you don't want to open the case, then you have to go with the hose from the MS2 case to the manifold and be careful with the routing of the hose.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    19. #367
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      I read a note in a Speedhut manual that says that their gauges do not go to zero when you power off. Is that true? How do your gauges respond to power cycles? A rep told me that the gauges will hold the last value until powered back on. Then, they'll pull to zero and begin reading again.
      Definitely the oil, gas temperature and voltage do not drop to zero when powering down. When I power up, oil and temperature definitely drop to the bottom if the engine is cold. I can't remember whether the fuel and voltage go to zero and then return to fuel level and 12 volts. I think they might because I know you can briefly hear the servo motors run in the gauge on power up. I have had them for long enough now that I really don't pay attention to that stuff anymore. Unfortunately, car is wrapped up in winter storage so I can't go and check
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    20. #368
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      Where did you mount your 02 sensor - pre or post the first bend in the down tube? Photobucket has blurred out all of your earlier photos.
      I have the IPD / Patriot 4/1 header. I mounted the O2 sensor in the adapter piece that bolts up to the collector on the header. The down side to mounting the sensor in the adapter piece is that it is getting fairly far back where space is getting a little tight for the sensor next to the transmission and definitely too tight to fit the sensor on the side facing the transmission tunnel. Net effect is that my sensor probably sits somewhere between the 9:00 and 9:30 position on the adapter when looking forward. I think Bosch recommends 10:00 - 02:00 to minimize the risk of moisture getting in the sensor on start up.

      Mounting in the collector or the adapter is the only real option on a header since you want blended gas from all 4 cylinders.

      Make absolutely sure that the sensor only gets powered up when the engine is running. Having a separate relay to power up the O2 sensor which is controlled by the same signal for the fuel pump relay works. So does powering it up directly off of the fuel pump relay as long as you fuse them separately (I dislike this because it increases the possibility of electrical noise from the motor influencing the u processor in the O2 controller. Powering up the O2 sensor before the motor starts can result in moisture from the start up exhaust hitting the hot sensor which can destroy it.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    21. #369
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      What about the tachometer? Does it fall to zero when you key off?

      Also, did you switch to the 14point7 spartan 2 controllers?
      Last edited by Lesky; 02-01-2020 at 10:24 PM.
      Lesky
      '58 PV444
      '73 164E

    22. #370
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
      What about the tachometer? Does it fall to zero when you key off?

      Also, did you switch to the 14point7 spartan 2 controllers?
      I think the tach drops to zero; but, to be honest I am not sure. I rarely check the dash during start-up. If the red out-of-limit lights on the gauges go out after start up everything is good and I don't really pay attention to the other stuff. It will be spring before I can check to confirm what the tach actually does.

      Yes, I am currently running the Spartan 2. Fair warning, my original Spartan 2 quit after a couple of months of operation. I contacted 14point7 and after confirming the details of the failure they sent me a replacement controller without issue via expedited post. They didn't ask for the old controller back so I opened up the controller packaging and discovered that the solder joint for the incoming power wire to the controller board had failed - it appeared to be a cold solder joint or incomplete soldering. I resoldered all the wires, made a better strain relief for the wires and then sealed the board up in a new cover made from some ultra heavy double-wall heat shrink. I also re terminated the LSU plug on an extension which allowed me to relocate the controller inside the car. I put that original controller back into the car and have been running on it without further issue. The replacement controller is wrapped up and sitting in a box - someplace.

      If you plan to use Spartan 2 to drive a dash display in addition to input to your EFI, be aware that you pretty much need to use the 14point7 display. 14point7 uses an odd voltage range. Not a problem, just something to be aware of. Not an issue for MS2 because the O2 sensor voltage range is configurable in Tuner Studio.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

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