S40 t5 GT chip tuning

[AlexChris]

Ok, so i want to ask you guys about the chip tuning for the Volvo S40 t5 with automatic gearbox. I want to make this step as soon as posible. My cas has 33.000 miles, I want to go for a stage 1 chip that will give me aprox 270 hp (or at least this is what the tuners listed). My question is: how this chiptuning will interact with the gearbox? Is it safe? From what i know the aisin gearbox has torque limiter on gears 1 and 2. If that limit is not modified the gearbox will be ok with 40 hp + ? Allso the does the stock TCV needs to be replaced? Mine is an year old. I would really like to rise the power up a little bit but allso i would like to keep the car for at least 3-4 years.
Thanks for all your answers.

[FosgateLife]

Wow! Low miles! You'd be in a great position for a K16 lol.
Although i dont have a T5 i know much about them. First of all make sure your at stage 0. Do all your other mods (if you plan to) before the tune. Ex: DP, exhaust, intake,... Chip tuning is conpletley safe. But what you're gonna have to look for is the one YOU want. As someone said before. You can only have 2 of the 3: good customer service, quality, cheap price.
Pick your poison.
Ad for the TCV, not sure.

[jschinito]

Ok, so i want to ask you guys about the chip tuning for the Volvo S40 t5 with automatic gearbox. I want to make this step as soon as posible. My cas has 33.000 miles, I want to go for a stage 1 chip that will give me aprox 270 hp (or at least this is what the tuners listed). My question is: how this chiptuning will interact with the gearbox? Is it safe? From what i know the aisin gearbox has torque limiter on gears 1 and 2. If that limit is not modified the gearbox will be ok with 40 hp + ? Allso the does the stock TCV needs to be replaced? Mine is an year old. I would really like to rise the power up a little bit but allso i would like to keep the car for at least 3-4 years.
Thanks for all your answers.

stage 1 is approx 250hp/275-285lbft torque and the geartronic (aisin automatic) handles it fine. volvo's own polestar upgrade is essentially a stage 1 tune. stock tcv works fine with the levels of boost with a stage 1. certain tuners can remove limiters for you (i know shark will) by request.

you'll love the T5 tuned. a real blast to drive.

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

The tunes are limited in 1st and 2nd as well unless you have modified your transmission and can prove so to your tuner.

I still only peak at 8-10psi in 1st and 2nd with a stage 1 tune. But 3rd-5th I'm peaking at 16-18psi.

Unless you're experiencing boost problems, your TCV should be fine. 33k miles on it isn't very old at all.

On a side note, this is just a tune for the ECU, so it's only called a "tune" nowadays. Chipping was back in the days when you'd physically add a computer chip.

[TG]

base tunes are pretty safe. I have mine since juin 2010 and it has never cause me any engine or tranny trouble. Ofcourse it all depends on your driving at some point... TCV does not need to be replaced until it fails. It's something you can do at any point in time so I would't get all worked up with that.
The biggest change you'll get from the tune is lower mpg. Let me repeat, it does not increase your mpg! unlike what they will tell you over and over...

[bgrove]

The biggest change you'll get from the tune is lower mpg. Let me repeat, it does not increase your mpg! unlike what they will tell you over and over...

I couldn't agree more! I dropped 1-2/mpg to approx 23/mpg with my Stage 1, and now with Stage 3 I'm lucky to see 19/mpg.

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

MPG will stay the same if you drive like a granny. But if you're going to drive like that, no point in even getting a tune!

We tune because we have heavy right feet, so enjoying the tune naturally means less MPG.

[TG]

MPG will stay the same if you drive like a granny.

Still not true. They look at it from a graph perspective (in terms of engine efficiency) but not from a real life situation perspective.
Even if you drive the same the circumstances in which you would normally accelerate smoothly will now make you use more HP+rpms and consume more gas, even if the practical speed/acceleration results in traffic is overall the same. This is especially true in city like driving. Highway/cruise driving might be better but who does highway driving only...
But aside from that when you're willing to pay for the fun it gives, the tune is well worth it

After having lived with a tune on my daily driving car for some years I would tell anyone to really think what their real use of the tune will be. In some instances it might be better to get another car altogether than getting a tune if you're daily gas consumption is important to you. Just a simple advise. Otherwise have a blast by any means!

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

Well said, and good point TG! Thanks for the clarification.

[Deviation01]

Fun>price of gas

[tehnighthawk]

The tunes are limited in 1st and 2nd as well unless you have modified your transmission and can prove so to your tuner.

SHARK will modify the 1st and 2nd gear limiters at your request.

[Slasher]

Fun>price of gas

hahaha. +1!

SHARK will modify the 1st and 2nd gear limiters at your request.

if i was GT i would be wary of this and the effects on the tranny. but since i am m66 i boost the hell out of 2nd!

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

Shark will, but that's a pretty big risk to take.

Stock, 2nd was my favorite gear. Tuned, I love 3rd. I can keep up with most cars that want to give it a go, but then I hit 3rd and stop playing around.

[bgrove]

Shark will, but that's a pretty big risk to take.

Stock, 2nd was my favorite gear. Tuned, I love 3rd. I can keep up with most cars that want to give it a go, but then I hit 3rd and stop playing around.

Agreed with ^ on all accounts, 3rd is the fun gear now.

[Deviation01]

man i love the m66 all the gears are fun gears

just had to say it

[EngTech]

It's still Limited in M66 also , but might be more Fun ..

I won't worry of MPG _ as the Tune really Needs to have a More Eff% Intercooler _ Unless You live in the Great White North ./.
That makes Your MPG = Equal or Better . The You may Add better Plugs and Tweak Your Intake and Gain more %eff.

Stage 1 or Stage 2 which should be run with a Down Pipe , some call it Stage III around 17psi - then Your MPG are going South .

[Deviation01]

It's still Limited in M66 also , but might be more Fun ..

Mine is not gauge says 15 psi in first and second. Maybe depending on tuner and who you go with. Autotech doesn't limit m66.

[bgrove]

How many others have RICA(or similar) Stage 3(file name for mine was Stage 2+ but after speaking with [email protected] he set me straight on it, confirming it was what I thought) on K04? I'd be interested to have a thread about that. Maybe some vids, power numbers, be a good place to post perchance anything starts to go south mechanically.

[TG]

How many others have RICA(or similar) Stage 3(file name for mine was Stage 2+ but after speaking with [email protected] he set me straight on it, confirming it was what I thought) on K04? I'd be interested to have a thread about that. Maybe some vids, power numbers, be a good place to post perchance anything starts to go south mechanically.

I got Rica stage 2 a while back with an added tune for the large Bell intercooler I have. It got very confusing when Rica called it stage 3 on their website with the intercooler while originally they had stage 3 for turbo upgrade... I contacted George at Viva and Rica via email. George said stage 3 is for Turbo upgrade. Rica never replied...

[Slasher]

Mine is not gauge says 15 psi in first and second. Maybe depending on tuner and who you go with. Autotech doesn't limit m66.

this is my experience as well.....although i blow thru 1st so fast it doesnt really have much time to boost....

[Slasher]

How many others have RICA(or similar) Stage 3(file name for mine was Stage 2+ but after speaking with [email protected] he set me straight on it, confirming it was what I thought) on K04? I'd be interested to have a thread about that. Maybe some vids, power numbers, be a good place to post perchance anything starts to go south mechanically.

i have the autotech stage 3 setup. Mustang AWD dyno: 255 awhp / 333 #ft
ran it on this same dyno ~ 1 year later and had just about same results 253 / 333
dynojet will add ~ 10% to those numbers.

[bgrove]

i have the autotech stage 3 setup. Mustang AWD dyno: 255 awhp / 333 #ft
ran it on this same dyno ~ 1 year later and had just about same results 253 / 333
dynojet will add ~ 10% to those numbers.

Any idea what the advertised crank hp was for that tune? RICA told me stage 3 should be 291/crank which would put me around 234/whp.

Reference:
http://www.rica.nl/chiptuning.php#chiptuning

[AlexChris]

Guys thanks allot for all your answers. I can't wait to get this stage 1 to my car. From what you guys are saying it will be pretty fun

[tehnighthawk]

Shark will, but that's a pretty big risk to take.

I haven't read many (read:any) threads that said, I got tuned and my first gear went out. But I'd certainly like to hear some proof of your theory.

[bgrove]

Stage 1 was a blast for me, my tune was done along with a DP install and some other jazz. I had a big speed bump in the form of a radiator bursting, fan motor went, O2 sensors freaked out... all of it was due to my buddy not taking car of his 40. A month later I was finally able to enjoy it and DAMN! BTW Stage 1 can and usually is on all stock internals, I opted to do the DP and other stuff because I got some good deals.

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

I haven't read many (read:any) threads that said, I got tuned and my first gear went out. But I'd certainly like to hear some proof of your theory.

Nothing beyond a theory at this point. Shark is still a newish company. But give a few years and people might start having issues. They might not though!
But considering Elevate (Autotech), Rica, and ARD all limit 1st and 2nd gear on GT cars, I'm sure there was some testing or strong concern for the transmission.

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

Here's a quote from Shark tuning themselves when asked if they'll put a guarantee on the auto trans.

We will not guarantee the transmission, removing or reducing the torque limits is an option we do per customer request.

So they'll do it, but it could be pretty easy to do damage if not driven carefully. I'm kind of curious though...

[686Sport]

Resurrecting this old thread as it is right to the point: I'm wondering if I can bolt on more power without compromising engine internals and driveline.

Current status: ARD tune good for 16-17 psi in 3rd and up, once or twice to 18; A/F around 12.2 under boost [GlowShift gauges]; ARD 3" dp with 3" cat; K&N Typhoon intake tube; do88 FMIC. All else stock. Suspension and brakes tip-top. Both front halfshafts have been replaced with A-1 Cardone units; with no banzai launches, they have been up to the task so far.

The car still delivers an honest 28 mpg at a steady 80 mph, and with 225/45x17's the speedometer and odometer are dead accurate.

Can I go for more power, or should I sell the car and move on to something that is [or can be readily made] notably faster?

This need for speed stems from my intention to sell my last motorcycle. The little V50 is comfy and competent, but its acceleration is way short of the R1200RT's 12-second 1/4 mile ability. Using the quarter as a comparative and theoretical yardstick, the V50 as configured is probably in the 14-second range. By comparison, a 3.0 V60 T6 is in the mid 13's, and a Mustang 5.0 is right around 13 flat. Those are two cars I could enjoy, but good used ones are a bit of a stretch financially.

All comments and suggestions welcomed. tia

686Sport - 2008 V50 awd GT

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

Resurrecting this old thread as it is right to the point: I'm wondering if I can bolt on more power without compromising engine internals and driveline.

Current status: ARD tune good for 16-17 psi in 3rd and up, once or twice to 18; A/F around 12.2 under boost [GlowShift gauges]; ARD 3" dp with 3" cat; K&N Typhoon intake tube; do88 FMIC. All else stock. Suspension and brakes tip-top. Both front halfshafts have been replaced with A-1 Cardone units; with no banzai launches, they have been up to the task so far.

The car still delivers an honest 28 mpg at a steady 80 mph, and with 225/45x17's the speedometer and odometer are dead accurate.

Can I go for more power, or should I sell the car and move on to something that is [or can be readily made] notably faster?

This need for speed stems from my intention to sell my last motorcycle. The little V50 is comfy and competent, but its acceleration is way short of the R1200RT's 12-second 1/4 mile ability. Using the quarter as a comparative and theoretical yardstick, the V50 as configured is probably in the 14-second range. By comparison, a 3.0 V60 T6 is in the mid 13's, and a Mustang 5.0 is right around 13 flat. Those are two cars I could enjoy, but good used ones are a bit of a stretch financially.

All comments and suggestions welcomed. tia

686Sport - 2008 V50 awd GT

The only thing I would suggest spending any additional money on would be an upgraded intake manifold and a ported lower manifold. That will help on the top end, though you may notice a slight loss of low end torque. That's really the last piece to the puzzle of a Stage 3 with all the bolt ons.

That being said, the 2019-me would discourage anyone from going beyond Stage 3 with just bolt ons. Stage 3 is still in reliable territory. Once you start swapping out internals or going for a bigger turbo, you're sacrificing reliability and putting more money into the car than it is worth.

Especially considering these P1s were basically unimproved since their release in 2004, modern cars have come a very long way. That's part of my reasoning for buying a current generation WRX and the last 6 cylinder engine option available in a mid engine Porsche. Both my recent purchases, in their stock form, offer Stage 3 Volvo performance in a much more controlled manner.

I still love tuned Volvos and the unique surprise factor that they offer. I also love the idea of buying a cheaper car, putting a small amount of money into it, and having something that can compete with much more expensive cars. But all of my current and future endeavors will be buying cars that offer what I want in their stock form and only adding a few upgrades once stock parts wear out.

I know it's still new to my fleet, but I am completely in love with the current generation WRX. The AWD is far beyond Volvo, Audi, VW, and Ford. The tiny engine is light but still very capable, and the FA motor (in my opinion) is much better than the notoriously-problematic-when-boosted EJ motors that Subaru used previously. Luxury and comfort is not present, but having driven most of it's competition, I'd call the WRX the best value for the level of performance that you get for the money.

[686Sport]

Thanks, Michael. This is much that you've said before, except for the surprising news that most of your Volvos are gone. Oddly, one of my old SCCA buddies suggested the same car you did; he gave up on Mustangs long ago and now has begun a collection of SVX's - at least one of which is always running. Another old racer bud has fallen in love with a Kona Blue 5.0 with Borla exhaust.

For pure HP per dollar in what I see as my price range [12-13k after mods], it's going to be hard to beat an N54 BMW with a tune. After our family's baker's dozen of BMW's, the only car that came close to being trouble-free was a 1987 325iS. Any newer BMW is bound to be way more expensive overall than keeping the V50. Looking at receipts, it appears that more dollars have gone into chassis and running gear than into its very efficient power gains. It should be good for another 30 or 40k miles as is, even if rims keep on bending every year. But it won't pedal much faster, it seems.

686Sport

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

A few car manufacturers are planning some new generations of models for the mid '20, '21, and '22 years. So I would suggest test driving cars within a $16-18k budget, as a lot of these will probably drop value significantly once the new models hit the showrooms. You might find the newer and more expensive offerings suit your needs better than current offerings and are worth a short wait, or you may realize that cars + mods in your budget are more to your taste.

That's what I did with the 987 and WRX. I drove both a few years earlier, compared them to what my current budget allowed for, and decided that they were worth the 1-2 year wait; especially since both fit my needs in mostly stock form and wouldn't "need" modifications to become what I wanted.

If your V50 is still going strong, maybe consider those last few bolt-ons to hold you over for another year.

[686Sport]

https://www.vivaperformance.com/do88...t5-s40-v50-t5/

Is this the correct intake for upgrade? How much porting is needed?

EngTech, are you listening?

tia, 686Sport - wife and son pooh-pooh'ed the Mustang idea, and WRX's are just too "in your face" imho

[686Sport]

OK, to answer my own mistaken question, that is not the upgraded intake MNIWT was suggesting. It's just a fancy airbox; and as my t7 is not making over 300 hp it seems unnecessary.

The $271 price sure looked good first thing this morning, but hey, the real do88 "inlet manifold" is on sale, too - for only $970.

No wonder nobody responded. My bad.

686Sport