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    1. #1
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      R32rennsport's Build Thread, Resto-Mod 1966 Amazon

      Haven't posted in ages, been lurking as usual though. My car has been doing great, just driving it and enjoying it, can't ask for more then that really. I just paid off my other car so I can start playing a little with car and getting a few things refurbished on it while playing with some other odds and ends.

      I recently picked up a set of widened steelies by chance last month while browsing on IPD's classifieds. Super excited to fit them to the car and adjust ride height accordingly to give it a nice aggressive look. They are 15 x 7 and because they were widened from the face outward I don't think I will have much issues fitting 205 tires, just debating on sidewall height, probably 60 or 55. Probably won't run hubcaps and I might experiment with a "wild" color to give it a 60's stock car theme. Luckily it will just be spray paint so if I don't like the color a few hours later it will end up a normal shade of black or silver.

      I do know how these wheels will change the driving experience and I'm prepared for that. It would probably be a good time to inspect and perhaps replace wheel bearings as this set up should definitely stress them. Luckily the previous owner did all the bushings already so I'm good there. Might look in to some sway bars since I have the shocks and springs squared away.

      Stayed tuned for updates!

      Last edited by R32rennsport; 04-23-2019 at 04:06 PM.

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    3. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      New here on the forum, my name is Steven and I'm from San Luis Obispo, California. My automotive background is mostly air and water cooled Volkswagens, but I've always had a soft spot for these early Volvo's. I'm sure you'll start to see me on here quite a bit. There are quite a few old Volvo's in my town, probable 6 122's and a couple 1800's and 544's. Just your run of the mill 1966 122S, nothing too special. I've owned it for a year now and have already clocked nearly 7k miles without issue.

      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      I ended up with a 1 3/4" tubing, a 18 inch resonator, and a 12" round muffler. I ran it under the axle with a flange for ease of axle service. I ended up paying $200 all said and done. Sounds more stock then sporty, but that's ok I guess. Besides, I already have a track car.
      Welcome back, Steven and thanks for the update.

      George Dill

    4. #3
      Junior Member ibcmoore's Avatar
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      LOL....so you're the one who scored those...good find...I was a day late in calling him...LOL

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    6. #4
      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post

      I do know how these wheels will change the driving experience and I'm prepared for that. It would probably be a good time to inspect and perhaps replace wheel bearings as this set up should definitely stress them. Luckily the previous owner did all the bushings already so I'm good there. Might look in to some sway bars since I have the shocks and springs squared away.

      Stayed tuned for updates!
      It would be interesting what you find out about the change. However, if your 165's are of descent quality, there may not be a huge difference.

      If you go with the low profile, the main consequence is that your gearing will be much lower, i.e. too much rpm for the same vehicle speed. This can be good for around town acceleration, but bad for freeway cruising (unless you have OD). Your speedo error will also get larger. Given that the ultimate cornering force of the lower profile is really no better than the higher profile tire, and given that the higher profile costs less, I would go with the taller tire. 70 or 75%.

    7. #5
      Moderator Phil Singher's Avatar
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      205 60 series are the same diameter as the stock tires.

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by Phil Singher View Post
      205 60 series are the same diameter as the stock tires.
      Thanks Phil, exactly what I'm looking for

      Dimitri, this change is more for looks then performance, the Volvo is just my daily around town cruiser. If I want performance I'll hop in my Volkswagen If I want comfort and mileage I'll hope in the wife's Honda

      These wheels weigh a ton so if anything it will decrease acceleration at my current power levels and will probably hurt ride quality and steering feedback, but it'll look good... haha, not my usual mentality but sometimes I just want to lay down the "hammer".
      Last edited by R32rennsport; 01-26-2014 at 12:35 AM.

    9. #7
      [QUOTE=R32rennsport;2255215]Thanks Phil, exactly what I'm looking for

      Dimitri, this change is more for looks then performance, the Volvo is just my daily around town cruiser. If I want performance I'll hop in my Volkswagen If I want comfort and mileage I'll hope in the wife's Honda

      [QUOTE]

      The first statement makes total sense. That's what I keep on telling people, ask yourself WHY you are doing the change. Many folks are under the illusion that they are improving certain performance characteristics, while in reality they make things worse.

      As on the performance aspect ... for some reason, having a certain performance level from an old car like the Amazon is a lot more enjoyable than similar, or often more performance, from a modern car. At least, that is the case for me ... So, improving performance on an old Volvo can be very rewarding, as long as you do it right, and you have indeed improvement.

      BTW, if you used lower/stiffer springs, thicker front anti-roll bar + rear etc. etc., you will likely get a bit better grip from the wider wheels and tires.

    10. #8
      Quote Originally Posted by Phil Singher View Post
      205 60 series are the same diameter as the stock tires.
      205 65. To estimate sidewall just multiply the section width to aspect ratio. 205*0.65. The original tire is 165*0.80 (some say .82).

      If you have a strong B20 and drive a lot on freeway, I would get a 205 70.

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post
      205 65. To estimate sidewall just multiply the section width to aspect ratio. 205*0.65. The original tire is 165*0.80 (some say .82).

      If you have a strong B20 and drive a lot on freeway, I would get a 205 70.
      Sounds good.

      I have a somewhat ok running B18, definitely needs some love though. I've been pretty lazy with valve adjustments, all other maintenance I keep up on. The carbs are way overdue for a rebuild. Most of my driving is in the city. I used to do a lot of freeway driving with it but it's too loud at modern freeway speeds without an overdrive, and I feel like I'm ringing it's neck.

    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      Sounds good.

      I have a somewhat ok running B18, definitely needs some love though. I've been pretty lazy with valve adjustments, all other maintenance I keep up on. The carbs are way overdue for a rebuild. Most of my driving is in the city. I used to do a lot of freeway driving with it but it's too loud at modern freeway speeds without an overdrive, and I feel like I'm ringing it's neck.
      These engines can take a lot of abuse, so if the engine runs smooth, I would not mind revving it high over long periods of time. I would use a high quality synthetic oil though, in order to handle the high oil temperatures that these engines like to operate when you keep the revs up. Also, rebuilding these engines is relatively simple and inexpensive (when you lose compression), and that is the time to also make engine performance upgrades.

      As for your hearing ... you can use ear plugs or some other airbox air filters that reduce noise.

      But obviously OD is the way to go if you drive it on the freeway a lot.

    13. #11
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      Today I got around to blasting and quickly spraying a wheel on my lunch. It cured by the time I clocked off so I gave it a test fit to see if I liked the color and to see clearance issues. The front is a close call, might throw a few shims up top to add some negative camber, the back looks just fine.

      Now the color... I personally like it, but obviously it's a personal choice. I think it's 70's fabulous!




    14. #12
      I like the color.. It really Pop's off of the black, and if you are going to run center caps, I think it will break things up great.. I wonder if some sort of painted or dulled cap would look better than chrome?
      ..
      Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 01-28-2014 at 10:35 PM.

    15. #13
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      Those wheels look FANTASTIC with that black and those amber running lights. Can't wait to see them with the hubcaps (could look great with the red V's) and some skins.

      Ever consider doing a similar gold/red theme with the 122 fender badges?

      -Mike

    16. #14
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      Here you guys go, my "backdated" hubcaps (I never got around to rubbing the paint off the V).


    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      Here you guys go, my "backdated" hubcaps (I never got around to rubbing the paint off the V).

      Cool - rather than removing the red on the "V" spray some wheel color paint on a felt paint pad then press the pad on the "V".

      George Dill

    18. #16
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      The front end of our cars has always annoyed me for some time, like there is just something missing. It's always needed a lower front valence to balance out the look of the car, it's as if the designers forgot to extend the front of the car down. Anyhow, I'm going to experiment. I found the chin spoilers from the late 60's of domestic cars tend to fill that void. Luckily, they are quite inexpensive, I found a chin spoiler new for $55 with mounting hardware. Once I mock it up I'll snap some pictures.

      I realize that there is that ugly reproduction bumper replacement atrocity that is out there, but I think it destroys the lines of the front of the car, our cars just weren't designed without the bumper in mind. I think a chin spoiler is much more subtle as it is mounted further back behind the bumper while retaining the bumper.

    19. #17
      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      The front end of our cars has always annoyed me for some time, like there is just something missing. It's always needed a lower front valence to balance out the look of the car, it's as if the designers forgot to extend the front of the car down. Anyhow, I'm going to experiment. I found the chin spoilers from the late 60's of domestic cars tend to fill that void. Luckily, they are quite inexpensive, I found a chin spoiler new for $55 with mounting hardware. Once I mock it up I'll snap some pictures.

      I realize that there is that ugly reproduction bumper replacement atrocity that is out there, but I think it destroys the lines of the front of the car, our cars just weren't designed without the bumper in mind. I think a chin spoiler is much more subtle as it is mounted further back behind the bumper while retaining the bumper.
      That reproduction piece you are talking about is pretty damn ugly if you use it as specified, but I have been experimenting with the same issues with my car, and I found that you can use it with a bumper if you modify and notch it for the bumper brackets. I am sure you don't need the lower splitter part of this, but I think you can see how it would work without the splitter part in these pictures.. I have also experimented with other types, and it is a very tricky thing to find something that fits the body naturally, and I have found that this modified piece might be the best alternative and I am not sure why everyone mounted without the bumper?

      If your eye can take the lower splitter wing mock up off of it, I think you will find that the IPD air dam actually works well with the bumper..? You can also raise and lower the body of the air dam by trimming it at the top to raise it, and making the bumper bracket notches a bit larger.




      Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 01-29-2014 at 11:37 AM.

    20. #18
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      I just don't care for it's shape or design. I think the brake ducts are too modern, and the outside edges are to harsh. I'll post up mock up pictures of the Camaro chin spoiler on Saturday and hopefully it looks how I imagine it will in my head.

    21. #19
      what year Camaro? If it looks good, I have a custom made Metal 69 Camaro chin spoiler if you could use it.? Just let me know, it has been sitting around the shop for a few years. I tried using it, but I just couldn't get it to look right..

    22. #20
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      67-68, I believe it's slightly different. We'll see, just might be another lost cause.

    23. #21
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      Well, can't say I didn't try, it was an experiment afterall. I think it might look better if 1) I ditched the bumperettes, they kill the horizontal lines at the front of the car and 2) I move it back further. I think it's coming off though.


    24. #22
      If it was further back, I don't think you would have to remove the bumperettes unless you want to for some other reason.? It has potential though..

    25. #23
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      Here's a 3/4 shot.

    26. #24
      I am thinking it might look pretty good if it was adjusted back a bit a few inches? Now I am thinking I might have to take another look at the metal 69 Camaro air dam I have.. LOL

    27. #25
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      I agree, I'm going to take another stab at it on Saturday. I did this on the garage floor, I think I'm going to opt for the lift at work this time around.

    28. #26
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      It definitely looks period correct to me, and I agree with moving it back. I might try that on mine!
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70 2.5T - Ice White - Oak Arena, (almost) bone stock daily driver.
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

    29. #27
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      By the way, a guy on turbobricks installed the fiberglass air dam in its stock fitment behind the bumper and I think it actually looks great.

      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70 2.5T - Ice White - Oak Arena, (almost) bone stock daily driver.
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

    30. #28
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      OK guys, so I have a minor dilemma, and I'm really not sure how to go about it without test fitting different tires. I'm trying to decide what will look more aggressive/vintage race as far as tire dimensions on these 15x7 steel wheels that I have. I was initially thinking 205/60, then again maybe 205/65. I'd kinda like that bubbly vintage look if everyone gets what I'm going for. I want to keep the set up square to maximize tire life/ease of tire rotation. Opinions/pictures?

    31. #29
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      All cleaned up and painted, just need to decide on tires.


    32. #30
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      So I lowered the car down about 3/4 all around today, glad I have a shop at my disposal, that took some time. I also added some shims to the upper A arms so I now have about 1.5 degrees of negative camber up front. The big news is I decided on tires and got them mounted. I went with the original diameter, the 205/65's look pretty meaty, thinking a 60 series might have been better look but oh well. The car almost looks ready to do Rally Targa. Comments appreciated!

      Pictures were taken before I shimmed the A arms. I still need to move the lower air dam back, it's way too far forward.



      Last edited by R32rennsport; 02-23-2014 at 12:52 AM.

    33. #31
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      Very nice - I'll give a dollar to see that "V" on the hubcap in silver rather than red.

      George Dill

    34. #32
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      I agree, the red isn't working here. I wish I could find another set of hubcaps so I can keep these for the black stock wheels.

    35. #33
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      Looks good, i'm a fan of the steel wheels and a Native of SLO.

    36. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      I agree, the red isn't working here. I wish I could find another set of hubcaps so I can keep these for the black stock wheels.
      The hubcap's red center circle is fine - the letter "V" would standout in its original stainless color.

      George Dill

    37. #35
      The real issue is, how does it drive?

      How did you lower the car? Do you have upgraded sway bar on the front? Rear sway bar?

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