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    1. #71
      Junior Member nonhog's Avatar
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      Love the look. Reminds me of Hurst cars of 60's and 70's. might try the 15X7, 205/60/15 combo. Still thinking. Other things to happen first.
      Not sure how I missed this thread? Glad I found it!

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    3. #72
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      Working on some fun projects. IPD sway bars finally came in from back order as well so I have my hands full.


    4. #73
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      Updates:

      New rear end and rebuilt drive shaft, along with all the new suspension bits are holding up well and the car is running and feeling great. Installed both front and rear sway bars and the car is much tighter and responsive.

      Carb's are on hold for right now, gathering some more parts for the engine and trying to find time to pull it and clean it up.

      The biggest news is that I just bought a fully rebuilt M41 withe J overdrive. Ordered up a longer speedo cable and just sourced a driveshaft that I'm going to send out to have rebuilt and balanced.

      I've been using the Volvo for a lot of freeway commuting lately so this will definitely be a welcomed addition. Still keeping my eyes out for a taller geared rear diff.

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    6. #74
      Junior Member mdrains's Avatar
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      Very interesting thread read.

      I use 20/50 for my carb damper oil. Seems to provide the best throttle response. Had tried ATF, 30, etc. but moved on to 20/50.

      Totally off topic. Your fog lights. Looks like older Spartan lights (I bought a set off EBAY). Technically not fog lights but were used for hazard/warning, etc. I liked them because of their size. Not so monstrous. Anyway, I want to up the lumens and am looking for LED with proper base socket. Did you do anything like that with yours? I haven't mounted mine yet. Any thoughts/insights appreciated.

    7. #75
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      Quote Originally Posted by mdrains View Post
      Very interesting thread read.

      I use 20/50 for my carb damper oil. Seems to provide the best throttle response. Had tried ATF, 30, etc. but moved on to 20/50.

      Totally off topic. Your fog lights. Looks like older Spartan lights (I bought a set off EBAY). Technically not fog lights but were used for hazard/warning, etc. I liked them because of their size. Not so monstrous. Anyway, I want to up the lumens and am looking for LED with proper base socket. Did you do anything like that with yours? I haven't mounted mine yet. Any thoughts/insights appreciated.

      I'll give 20/50 a shot, what kind of climate are you in?

      I haven't even wired mine, haha. One day...

    8. #76
      Junior Member mdrains's Avatar
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      North Carolina. Hot summer, mild winters mostly.

    9. #77
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      20W-50 engine oil seems super-thick for the damper, to me.

      My best result has always been red (type F) ATF, although I have also used straight 20 weight motor oil.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
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      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    10. #78
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      Bringing this thread back from the dead. Having your first child and changing your address will tend to put a damper on secondary cars and projects.

      Worse of all the Volvo started consuming coolant, at first just about a quart a week and then it became a gallon every time I went out for a drive. Not having any time (but ironically plenty of space and a little bit of money) meant the Volvo has been sitting for the past year with what is most likely a bad head gasket. Though I realize I could do a "quick and dirty" head deck and gasket swap I decided that it was time to start looking for a B20 replacement as the compression on the old tired B18 was a good indication that it needed more then just a head gasket.

      It did give me the opportunity to meet Phil S. in person though as I made a trip up from central California to Whidbey Island in Washington state in the fall of 2015 to pick up a used engine and interior from an acquaintance who was restoring a 123GT. I had high hopes of using this "running when pulled" engine as a quick solution to my predicament but once I got it home I realized it wasn't really the direction I wanted to go as it had a B20F head on a rebuilt B18 bottom end. I would later find out that the head was in need of a complete overhaul and the fiber timing gear was cracked and had who knows how long before letting go. So that sat next to the car with the rebuilt overdrive trans that I never got around to installing as well as the newly acquired used interior for a good part of a year. Then recently I responded to an ad for a good used B20 shortblock with an IPD cam already installed for a great price. With the help of forum members I was able to have the shortblock picked up at the IPD Garage sale and transported down to California. Now I had the two main pieces to my puzzle, but unfortunately things would be put to the side for a few months before I could touch them. Honestly, things got to the point to where I debated selling the car and all the parts but my wife encouraged me to keep it around until our lives settled down.

      That brings my story up to date. I've sent the head down to the local machinist that our shop uses where it was found to need just about everything. I went down myself and inspected it this week and sure enough the seats were pounded in and the chrome on some of the valves was worn through. It will get a proper going through and then the block will go down next month for some work as well as I plan on running .30 over pistons. Between Phil S. and my machinist we've formulated a pretty good plan for a reliable daily driver B20 with a little bit of kick hopefully. I'm shooting for everything to be in the car around Christmas time as I'll be slowly working on it in the evenings after work now that my daughter is on a pretty reliable sleep schedule and my wife is doing college courses online in the evenings, all in all its all starting to work out. I'm definitely learning that patience is a virtue. I'll try to make updates more regularly with some pictures as well.

    11. #79
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      Just a couple of pictures of the tan 123GT interior swap I did awhile back (so much better then the red interior IMO) as well as a picture from this weekend at our local Volvo/Euro meet. Should have some pictures of the engine work by the end of the month. As for the interior I still need a replacement dash and the head liner replaced, both are mostly intact, just brittle and falling apart. My replacement passenger floor pan showed up today so I have that project to look forward to as well.





      Last edited by R32rennsport; 10-17-2016 at 07:25 PM.

    12. #80
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      This came back from the machine shop last week. Now the bottom end is being worked on, boring for .030 over pistons, balanced rotating mass and some other goodness.


    13. #81
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      Just swap the engine and transmission he said... while I'm in there he said...

      Full refresh and powdercoat on the front suspension bits as well as reinforcing the subframe for possible autocross/time trial use in the future. Cleaning up the engine bay as well with a fresh coat of paint and new brake hardlines and fresh harness. The big modification is making room for the DCOEs as I plan on using larger velocity stacks/airbox and long intake runners. Before the critics come in with worries about tire clearance I can assure you there is more then enough room for the tire to move around as I did a static test without shock and spring throughout travel and lock to lock. Also, yes I could have gone multiple different routes with the carb setup but this is what I'm sticking with. Hopefully more updates to follow in the coming weeks!






    14. #82
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      Good looking work, progressing nicely...

      From your earlier post: "this (J-OD) will definitely be a welcomed addition. Still keeping my eyes out for a taller geared rear diff."

      IMHO I think the 4.10 standard sedan rear is perfect with your later 80% J/OD (=3.28) vs. either the 4.56 standard OD rear with 75% D/OD (=3.42), the 4.56 with the J/OD (=3.64) or the 4.10 with D/OD (=3.07), assuming your motor makes at least 115-120hp and has some guts below 3500rpm.
      With a warmed engine I prefer the first four gears through the 4.10 as well.

      And it's always easier to not do something
      Last edited by northNH; 02-01-2017 at 07:39 PM.
      '62 Amazon Original 65K mile time capsule
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    15. #83
      Junior Member Matteo's Avatar
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      What kind of runners are you shooting for ? I have a similar set up (B20, DCOE 45's on a redline manifold) and I have plenty of clearance. I'm using some very basic filters though.

      Looks good, the front end mods are essential on these cars. A local shop recommends welding some plates to the top of the shock towers and has convinced a lot of owners to do that before they split from our rough AZ roads.

    16. #84
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      Quote Originally Posted by Matteo View Post
      What kind of runners are you shooting for ? I have a similar set up (B20, DCOE 45's on a redline manifold) and I have plenty of clearance. I'm using some very basic filters though.

      Looks good, the front end mods are essential on these cars. A local shop recommends welding some plates to the top of the shock towers and has convinced a lot of owners to do that before they split from our rough AZ roads.
      The R Sport runners are a good inch taller then the Redline runners if I recall and don't have any angle to them. Also, I plan on runner 3" velocity stacks with filters or an airbox. Believe me, I'll need all the room I can get. Like I mentioned before as well there is absolutely no issue with tire clearance, so really the only downside is that I'm slightly depreciating the cars value for a purist but in the end I don't think anyone is really going to care much. I'm going to refinish the whole engine bay and wheel wells anyhow so it should look fairly good when it's all reassembled.

      Do you mind showing me pictures of your setup?

    17. #85
      Junior Member Matteo's Avatar
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      It's your car, do whatever you want to with it. Especially if it's to make it go fast, people should relax.

      Here is what I have. Not overly impressed with the redline runners but I lack your fab skills.

      IMG_4673

      IMG_4672

      IMG_4671

    18. #86
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      Thanks for posting that up!

      Did you go with out of the box jetting or did you change as needed? Also I was going to go with a Carter rotary fuel pump, it seems you have a regulator in line, any certain pressure you like better then others?

    19. #87
      Junior Member Matteo's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      Thanks for posting that up!

      Did you go with out of the box jetting or did you change as needed? Also I was going to go with a Carter rotary fuel pump, it seems you have a regulator in line, any certain pressure you like better then others?
      I'm not checking forums often enough, I apologize.

      I had the car running fairly well but not perfectly so it ended up going to a local shop for final tuning. They basically reinvented the wheel: the Carter rotary pump I was using was replaced by a mechanical pump. They also used smaller jets and the regulator. If I had to go back and redo it: I'd stick to 40's, with the Carter and a regulator. BTW, I used this P/N for the Carter pump: P4600HP, it's a great pump and I'm sure I'll use it on a car again soon.

    20. #88
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      Alright, time for an update as we start to approach summer time.

      My rebuilt cylinder head will be going down the machine shop this month for mock up as the block has been done for quite sometime, the engine hold up is on my end since I'm doing so many things at once and trying to spread out the cost. I was happy to find out that I had sourced a virgin B20 block that had never been machined and was in great shape, my only complaint is I wish it had been an 8 bolt setup for some more displacement but I believe I'll be happy with this engine. Unfortunately, the engine had a very pitted Isky cam in it, on the up side it had factory steel timing gears installed. So I'm looking at cams at the moment and don't really want to go the Isky route as I know there is much better out there, especially if I start shopping from Europe. Ultimately this car is going to used on the weekends and not as a daily, that being said I don't want to build a hand grenade, been there, done that. I'd like to do an occasional autocross and start participated in long distance (multiple day) rally's so reliability and longevity are definitely priorities, with more torque over ultimate horsepower. Known specifications are as follows: B20 block bored .030 over, compression between 9.5-10.0:1, dual Weber DCOE 45's, IPD 4 into 1 header, 2.25-2.5 exhaust system, stock rearend mated to a J type overdrive, tire size is 205/60/15 on 7 inch wheels. So what cam? Any other advice? Any body have some experience with a brand as far as an aftermarket radiator or something that swaps in from another more modern car?

      On the driveline front I just sourced a remote shifter assembly with 140 tunnel sheet metal to mate to the rebuilt M41 that I bought a few years back. Should make for a more comfortable shifting position/lever throw. I'm still holding out on having my driveshaft shortened until I'm ready for final assembly as I'm hoping to come across one from a M41/automatic to save me a few dollars (also want to keep it with my M40 as a backup).

      As for the engine bay I've finished chipping off most of the undercoating from the inner fender wings and trans tunnel and have started sanding/grinding/priming the engine bay proper. The front nose is in dismal shape but I might have a line on a good used one, I'd rather not install the original swiss cheese version (I could call it a cooling modification???).

      I've also been collecting other goodies along the way. I bought a new dash pad and headliner kit from VP Autoparts and a bunch of sound deadening mats. That should square away the interior with the exception of a new steering wheel, which I've narrowed down to a few aftermarket options, finding an adapter seems to be a bit of a pain though. I think I'm going to do my self a favor and stick with a near to stock diameter as well, especially with the combination of wider tires that I've added to the mix. As for exterior I'm thinking about deleting the over riders and going with a cleaner look on the bumpers. I'll be adding larger fog lights to the front and smaller single reverse light to the rear. I picked up a set of fender mirrors from a VW Ghia, they look like they will work well and are from the period, not so much practical as they will be for looks though as most can vouch for.

      Speaking of rims and tires, I picked up a set of original American Racing Torque Thrusts, 15x7, as they went on sale and couldn't pass them up. I love the widened steel wheels I have and I'll most likely keep them as my main rollers and use the new set with some more sticky rubber. Debating on painting the centers something other then light gray as I prefer the more common dark anthracite or I could get a little crazy and match the gold on my steelies, only time will tell.

      Well, I think that about covers it for now. Hopefully I'll be back with some pictures to show for it all in a month or two.

      PS: Also for a shameless plug if you've made it this far, I've thrown up some items for sale on IPDs parts classifieds to help pay for some of my "progress".
      Last edited by R32rennsport; 05-19-2017 at 05:38 PM.

    21. #89
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      On the drive shaft. I had a spare M40 shorted at a truck drive line shop, they do drive shafts every day. Cost between $100 and $150.

    22. #90
      Junior Member nonhog's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bobbyz View Post
      On the drive shaft. I had a spare M40 shorted at a truck drive line shop, they do drive shafts every day. Cost between $100 and $150.
      I did the same, trucking shop had great service, good prices and were patient when I had to supply them with spare parts. Got a load of attitude from the local big name driveline shop.

    23. #91
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      Quote Originally Posted by Matteo View Post
      I'm not checking forums often enough, I apologize.

      I had the car running fairly well but not perfectly so it ended up going to a local shop for final tuning. They basically reinvented the wheel: the Carter rotary pump I was using was replaced by a mechanical pump. They also used smaller jets and the regulator. If I had to go back and redo it: I'd stick to 40's, with the Carter and a regulator. BTW, I used this P/N for the Carter pump: P4600HP, it's a great pump and I'm sure I'll use it on a car again soon.
      Wish I had known you wanted to sell those Webers, I would have bought them in a heart beat!

    24. #92
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      Just some work in progress picture updates, nothing excited. I finished seem welding the subframe after that picture was taken.






    25. #93
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      A little update. Front suspension parts are ready to go back together, notice I flipped and had welded the shock plates to gain some travel back. In the meantime I uncovered some not so fun rust which should set me back quite a bit on my time table, cost and time wise. Unfortunately dealing with metal repair is out of my wheel house and I don't have the time or want to practice.

      As far as the engine goes I ordered up a TT4 camshaft from TinusTuning with springs and retainers. I figured a camshaft designed within the last decade would probably not be an entirely bad way to go. Just sourced a flywheel with locating dowels so now I can get everything balanced. I lucked out on my engine, everything will be standard bearing sizes, nice to know I have good meat left on all the bottom end.





      Last edited by R32rennsport; 08-15-2017 at 07:13 PM.

    26. #94
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      Time for a New Year's update. Front sub assembly finally done, just have to rebuild the calipers and assemble the disc/hubs. Sure looks pretty. All hardware upgraded from grade 5 to grade 8 where possible. Extra points if you can guess what's under the cover (not mine, belongs to my boss, but I've driven it a bunch and it's riot).



      Engine shop FINALLY finished up with my B20, only took 6 months... that's what happens when your machinist is your friend.

      Ironically, I just picked up a complete, freshly built IPD big bore B20 with 0 miles on it with a bunch of goodies. It was a smoking deal. So one of the two newly built engines needs to go away to make way for other improvements to the car.

      With the birth of my second child things have really slowed down but with an impending move (possible relocation) I'm really motivated to get this project back on the ground!

    27. #95
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      Quote Originally Posted by R32rennsport View Post
      Extra points if you can guess what's under the cover (not mine, belongs to my boss, but I've driven it a bunch and it's riot).
      Looks like something from Stuttgart.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    28. #96
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      “All hardware upgraded from grade 5 to grade 8 where possible.”

      At the risk of repeating myself, or you may know this already.....

      Grade 8 in some places can’t be torqued properly.

      https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...de+bolt&page=2

    29. #97
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      Looks like something from Stuttgart.
      That it is. A fairly special one at that.

    30. #98
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      Quote Originally Posted by craig300 View Post
      “All hardware upgraded from grade 5 to grade 8 where possible.”

      At the risk of repeating myself, or you may know this already.....

      Grade 8 in some places can’t be torqued properly.

      https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...de+bolt&page=2
      Interesting read, I'll take my chances though. Never had an issue before.

    31. #99
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      Making some progress. Sent my car over to a buddys shop for some patch work to the floors. Nothing pretty, just good enough to slap on some paint and undercoating. Luckily nothing structural was affected. Also, rebuilding the steering box while it's out. Acquired some new rolling stock in the same size as my steels, these are amazingly light in comparison and I'm sure much more rigid. Debating on painting/powder coating them in bronze/gold like the steel wheels.









    32. #100
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      I'm having a rewarding time rebuilding all the various components in preparation to get this project on the road.

      The steering box was completely gone through including new brass bushings and seals. Took me forever to ream the bushings to size. I also epoxied and polished some pitting at the pitman arm shaft around the seal area, hopefully it will give a tighter seal.

      The brake calipers were split apart, cleaned and piston bores were honed. There was so much gunk in both calipers! 3 out of the six pistons were frozen as well, no wonder I could never get the front brakes to lock up!



    33. #101
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      Where did you get the seals for the calibers? I've heard the proper ones that go in between the half's are hard to sorce.

    34. #102
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      Quote Originally Posted by bobbyz View Post
      Where did you get the seals for the calibers? I've heard the proper ones that go in between the half's are hard to sorce.
      VP Autoparts have everything you need including those hard to source seals for the caliper halves.

    35. #103
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      (Perhaps) interesting aside...

      Did you know that the earliest version of these B18 calipers, as used on e.g. my '62 sedan, did not use an O-ring seal between the halves?
      The fluid channel between the halves were not drilled, thus no O-ring needed. The halves were connected externally with a ~8" metal crossover pipe.
      Functionally identical, but the older style looks busier, with 3 hose/pipe connections per caliper vs. one...
      '62 Amazon Original 65K mile time capsule
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    36. #104
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      Getting around to the fun part. Can't wait to get this B20 big bore fired up on the twin Webers!

    37. #105
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      R32; I love the smell of paints and gasket sealers baking off a fresh engine on First-start...I'm seeking help...it's not working...

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