Time to replace my upper radiator hose, part #30723082.
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    1. #1
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Time to replace my upper radiator hose, part #30723082.

      Title says it all, I noticed a fairly steady drop in the fluid level(fluid reservoir) over the last 2 weeks and at first I couldn't find where it was going to. Last night after my oil change the intake and some other jazz came off, this revealed that one of the hard plastic portions of my upper rad hose sections is broken and the hose has signs of the location where fluid has been escaping from. I will have images up after I get a tad more sleep. I am really happy I was able to catch this, sad part is that today is Sunday!!!!!!! I am now forced to make this a 2 day project.

      Part# 24 in the diagram:
      http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/sh...sembly=1183241
      Last edited by bgrove; 02-23-2014 at 08:22 AM.

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    3. #2
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      Ewww, I was just in there yesterday when installing the starter. Is that hose replaceable by itself? The connections looked like they were part of the hard plastic and not necessarily removable.

      Edit: n/m I see you have to replace the whole gob of hoses and connections.
      Logan

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    4. #3
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Yep, hose costs about 43 from FCP and 33 from Volvo Pats Webstore, but the million dollar? is what will stealership charge for it?

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    6. #4
      Member Jonxy's Avatar
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      Oh wow, scary looking hose.
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    7. #5
      Member Jonxy's Avatar
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      List Price $44 hope they don't charge too much more
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    8. #6
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bgrove View Post
      Yep, hose costs about 43 from FCP and 33 from Volvo Pats Webstore, but the million dollar? is what will stealership charge for it?
      Tasca has it for $28.65
      Logan

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    9. #7
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Veefifty T5AWD View Post
      I don't mind paying more to get it and have the work done tomorrow.

    10. #8
      Member bgrove's Avatar
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      Images of the leak.


    11. #9
      Junior Member mkd28's Avatar
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      just did mine a few months ago. its a chore. I removed the vaccum lines, the battery, trans cooler, the main power feed to the starter. Be prepared to spend some time getting the lines off the trans cooler and the lower radiator hose. Be careful removing the return lines from the top of the block that go back to the radiator resevior they are quick release and they break easy and will be in your way of removing the upper radiator hose.

    12. #10
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      I'm feeling the need for a new write up!
      Logan

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    13. #11
      I think I'm going to have to do this (per my thread from tonight). I will probably do a write up if I decide to tackle the job.
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    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by GRat9717 View Post
      I think I'm going to have to do this (per my thread from tonight). I will probably do a write up if I decide to tackle the job.
      Please do a write-up with pics, that way I can do this as preventative maintenance I told my wife I don't want to have to fix anything until 200k miles. I think hoses at 155k is reasonable.
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    15. #13
      This isn't a wear and tear fix, though. I wouldn't do it as a preventative procedure.
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    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by GRat9717 View Post
      This isn't a wear and tear fix, though. I wouldn't do it as a preventative procedure.
      Why not? To replace all the cooling hoses is $85 in parts. For a car my wife drives, I think the peace of mind is worth that.
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    17. #15
      Quote Originally Posted by leroy_sunset View Post
      Why not?
      Because it doesn't seem like a common failure point. Piece of mind is fine, but I wouldn't fix something like this until broken.
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    18. #16
      Ordered. Gone for the week and then Passover so this will have to be a weeknight job...
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    19. #17
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      doing this on a t5 or 2.4i?

    20. #18
      Member JN2k108's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by GRat9717 View Post
      Ordered. Gone for the week and then Passover so this will have to be a weeknight job...
      I had mine blow on me while driving... Woo that was fun lol
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    21. #19
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      Same issue happened last winter, the plastic separates at the junction. I put three band-clamps on the T-junction, I suggest doing the same to the new hose, prior to install, even after installing it, it's still easy to get too.

    22. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by phish View Post
      doing this on a t5 or 2.4i?
      T5. Not sure how it would be different in a 2.4i though.

      Quote Originally Posted by JN2k108 View Post
      I had mine blow on me while driving... Woo that was fun lol
      Sucks!

      Quote Originally Posted by mikey64driver View Post
      Same issue happened last winter, the plastic separates at the junction. I put three band-clamps on the T-junction, I suggest doing the same to the new hose, prior to install, even after installing it, it's still easy to get too.
      This is a good idea. Thanks.
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    23. #21
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      Just did this yesterday on a 05 2.4i. First thing, I bought the volvo brand hose which actually says "gates" all over it, so no reason to waste money on the volvo brand, just buy gates.

      I held the leak off for a week by putting hose clamps on the hard plastic fittings.

      Found it easiest to remove air box, intake plenum (to get to the coolant pipe clamp), and the plastic bracket on the starter that holds the hose. I fed the new one up from the bottom which worked well.

      Here's a picture of the hose location with the temporary clamps from last weekend.



      Andy
      Last edited by AEndy; 04-19-2015 at 04:22 PM.
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    24. #22
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      Yes Andy I'm doing this now I agree it's best to remove The airbox ,Plenum, a few vacuum lines, unplug the battery of course , tuck the ecu connectors to the side I also unbolted & threw away the holder for the starter power wire
      Once I did all that stuff & crammed the hose down near is spot everything popped in place
      I never un-did the transcooller lines

      Now I've got to figure out how to get that damn airbox back in

      On a scale of FML 1-5 I give it a 2.5 cause the amount of **** it remove just to get to it

      I also added length to the vacuum line that hooks to the intake/plenum

      Anybody make a cold air intake ? I'm buying that **** meow ! [email protected]&# that air box


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    25. #23
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      Need that air pump unbolted and moved all the way to the right. The one air box stub hits the thermostat so you just have to push the air box into the fan assembly to smoosh it past the thermostat. After that it's "easy". First time is the toughest. After that it's not awful.

      Andy
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    26. #24
      I did this today and only removed the airbox and battery. There is no reason to remove the intake plenum. I meant to do a write up but it would have taken all day.
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    27. #25
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      So, i think I have the exact some issue. I have been having a leak for quite some time. Could not find the source. Today, when tracing the all the hoses, I finally saw some dried coolant around the edges of the plastic t-connector section near the top of the portion of the hose. My guess is that it is crack or what ever is causing the leak. Now to try and find the hose locally on a Sunday.

    28. #26
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      The Volvo hose I bought actually had "gates" stamped on it so if you can find a store with gates you'll be getting OEM.

      If you can't find one you can always put hose clamps on the hard plastic connections to keep them from splitting further.

      Andy

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    29. #27
      Junior Member TurbineWagon's Avatar
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      Can confirm... my factory installed hose that I replaced did have a Gates stamp on it. Replaced with silicone, because I have no desire to ever deal with that again.
      -Zach
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    30. #28
      Junior Member LMGVolvo's Avatar
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      A 7mm nut driver will come in very handy for loosening and tightening the hose clamps. For added light I used a LUX-PRO LP470 flashlight. Amazing brightness with a tightly focused spot beam pattern perfect for getting into tight spaces.

      Installing the upper radiator hose on an S40 with an automatic transmission is a bit more involved than those with a manual. Use a breakaway utility knife with the blade extended a couple of inches and cut completely through the hose at a point just past the first plastic tee fitting for easier removal. Also, disconnect the wire running to the starter motor as well and remove the Torx screw to the wire clamp holding it in place. This will permit you to pull most of the starter motor wire out of the way to facilitate easier installation of the new hose.

    31. #29
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      Jesus. I just finished the job myself after 1.5 days of working on it. I had to remove motor mount and move the engine about 2 inches to get the air box out. Everything is back in but now I can't shift out of park unless I use the override (2006 T5 AWD AUTOMATIC). I checked and rechecked everything. Is there anything I could've over looked for this to happen?

      Engine System Service Required is now on the dash which wasn't there prior to me doing this job.
      Last edited by IRON_MIKE; 03-31-2018 at 12:16 PM.

    32. #30
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      I just did this job on a 2006 V50 T5 auto.
      I couldn't get the airbox all the way out & after struggling a bit realized it doesn't really need to be removed. Get it loose & disconnect the ecu & wires, then lift the right side. That'll give you all the room you need. I also found no need to remove the trans cooler nor starter wire, though I did remove the loom that holds it in place (T-25). The only difficult thing I found was positioning/reaching the lowermost hose clamps.
      FWIW, the main joint on the original had split on both ends & the short piece that runs to the block came off in my hands. Amazingly, it was barely leaking as long as I didn't fill the reservoir more than an inch or two from the bottom. If I brought it up to level it would leak back down within about 5 minutes then pretty much stay there.
      Last edited by bodinski; 06-08-2019 at 03:08 PM.

    33. #31
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      I just did the upper radiator hose on my 06 S40 2.4i this weekend. I was not looking forward to it based on all the comments. Some things to note that I found based on other comments and what the best way to go about this is:

      1. Remove the battery and battery box. If will make it way easier to get to the radiator hose connection to the left of the box at the back of the motor. There is a connector on the bottom of the battery box that you need to disconnect. Don't lose track of this and get it pinched in something when you go to put it all back together.
      2. I agree with removing the motor mount under the battery. It just is way easier as long as you have the ability to jack up the motor. Once it's removed, you can jack the motor up and the air box will slide out the right side. Without moving the engine up it's pretty much impossible to get out unless you take the whole front of the car apart.
      3. Get yourself a universal joint socket adapter if you don't already have one. Many of the bolts are at weird angles and hard to access without come at them at an angle.
      4. Take a picture of the way that the existing hose routes around wiring and refer to it- because if you don't route it the same way you will be upset and have to take it back out and it is a wrestling match. Ahh, Swedish engineering.
      5. The hose connection at the radiator - was almost my nemesis. Getting a 1/4" socket wrench in there at the correct angle and trying not to allow the clamp to spin while you are tightening it - I had to have my son get under the car and hold the clamp in place to prevent spinning. Such fun.
      6. The torx screw that holds the wiring harness to the bottom of the airbox (did I mention fine Swedish engineering?) - with the battery out of the way you can easily get a long driver in there to remove and install that screw. You do have to wrestle the thing into place but it's not the worst part of the job.

      Cheers!

    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by bodinski View Post
      I just did this job on a 2006 V50 T5 auto.
      I couldn't get the airbox all the way out & after struggling a bit realized it doesn't really need to be removed. Get it loose & disconnect the ecu & wires, then lift the right side. That'll give you all the room you need. I also found no need to remove the trans cooler nor starter wire, though I did remove the loom that holds it in place (T-25). The only difficult thing I found was positioning/reaching the lowermost hose clamps.
      FWIW, the main joint on the original had split on both ends & the short piece that runs to the block came off in my hands. Amazingly, it was barely leaking as long as I didn't fill the reservoir more than an inch or two from the bottom. If I brought it up to level it would leak back down within about 5 minutes then pretty much stay there.
      Mine did EXACTLY the same thing. Cracked right through the middle of the main joint, and the short hose running to the bock just pulled right out as I was cutting the hose away. I drove the car for at least 2 weeks and amazingly didn't do any other damage, but I was curious as to why I was losing coolant, when none of it was dripping out of the bottom of the car. It either burned off when it hit the motor, or only came out when the car was running at a high speed or high RPM where the hose was under more pressure.

    35. #33
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      Quote Originally Posted by shondyrocks View Post
      Mine did EXACTLY the same thing. Cracked right through the middle of the main joint, and the short hose running to the bock just pulled right out as I was cutting the hose away. I drove the car for at least 2 weeks and amazingly didn't do any other damage, but I was curious as to why I was losing coolant, when none of it was dripping out of the bottom of the car. It either burned off when it hit the motor, or only came out when the car was running at a high speed or high RPM where the hose was under more pressure.
      Having the same issue with a cracked clamshell on the 4-way union. Followed Vida on how to get the airbox out, just loosened the right side engine mount and lifted the engine got it out. Not looking forward to get it back.

      I'm seriously considering just hose clamping the clam shell with 4 hose clamps and call it a day. It looks like the union is a molded cross with two clam shells bonded over in place of hose clamps. The hoses looks like they are in decent shape. Has anyone experienced any other failure modes on that hose?

      Ulf

    36. #34
      Quote Originally Posted by tribologist View Post
      Having the same issue with a cracked clamshell on the 4-way union. Followed Vida on how to get the airbox out, just loosened the right side engine mount and lifted the engine got it out. Not looking forward to get it back.

      I'm seriously considering just hose clamping the clam shell with 4 hose clamps and call it a day. It looks like the union is a molded cross with two clam shells bonded over in place of hose clamps. The hoses looks like they are in decent shape. Has anyone experienced any other failure modes on that hose?

      Ulf
      Other than rubber getting "crunchy" with age and heat cycles, most of us have only had the hose union clamp fail. I did exactly what you mentioned which was place hose clamps over the outside so even if it DID split all the way open it wouldn't lose coolant due to constant tension being placed on it. It lasted the week I needed to get my replacement kit in.
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    37. #35
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      There is a tee inside the hoses. Maybe break off the clamshell completely and just use hose clamps.

      The Gates I put on my car had a different (IMO, better) design.

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