Walk through with pictures M66 (c) manual trans disasembly.
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    1. #1

      Walk through with pictures M66 (c) manual trans disasembly.

      As promised here is the walk through with pictures on talking apart the Volvo M66 (C close ratio) manual trans.

      Keep in mind that I'm have no plans on putting this one back together so it's extra dirty while I'm working on it in the shop. If were really going to build a trans you can bet I would keep all the parts sparkling clean and in a nice clean environment. Spend some time pressure washing the case of the trans ect. If you are doing this in your shop, have 3-4 large clean clear plastic containers with snap on lids, and several smaller tupperware or rubber maid containers so you can sort all of the parts in the trans into the different bins and not hurt anything. BE VERY GENTLE when pulling the case apart, and pulling the gear stacks and shift forks from the trans case.

      If any of you are pulling out hair wondering why I took apart a perfect looking trans, this is from my parts car that was hit in the front. It broke the case in 4-5 spots, and also seems to have bent the surface where the trans mounts to the motor.


      There are NO Special Volvo tools required. The most advanced tool you will need is a simple 2 jaw puller for pulling the clutch slave cylinder off of the input shaft of the trans.

      Here's a pic of the tag on the trans telling you what it is in Volvospeak. You can see it say M66C and in the other spot says 3.7 which is the final drive ratio.





      Before you start, make sure you pull the drain plug and fill plug to get all of the old gear oil out of the trans. It smells awful if you spill it all over the shop. This is what the drain and fill plugs look like. You will need 2 new copper crush washers if you're putting the trans back in for these plugs.



      Here is my favorite tool for sucking out gear oil. Harbor Freight vac oil changer designed for boats. It has a venturi on it that you hook up to the shop's air supply, then you can roll it around and suck up gear oil out of different sumps ect.





      Here is the trans up on my work bench ready to be pulled apart.






      Here is a shot of the bolts that run all round the case of the trans. Typical Volvo tools, 12mm bolts around the exterior of the trans joining the 2 halves of the trans, and 1 12 mm hiding that you have to take out from inside the bell housing area where the clutch goes.




      The the shift mechanism has to come out so the internals of the trans can come out. There are 4 bolts on top that come out, then some sort of shift detent that unscrews from the trans case below it. It looks like this:




      Next step is to remove the Clutch slave cylinder. This is the infamous one that leaks that everyone hates, this is just a terrible design by Volvo having the slave internal to the trans so that when it leaks it costs thousands of dollars in labor to replace, and ruins a clutch. There is a 10 mill bolt holding it in, plus you have to unclip the supply line that brings in the brake fluid. Once those are off, bust out the 2 jaw puller and PB blaster and pull the slave off of the input shaft. Here is what the slave looks like after removal:







      Now your are in the home stretch. You want to very genlty pry the 2 halves of the trans apart at the seam with a flat head screw driver, but DO NOT scrape up the flat mating surfaces with the screw driver as it could lead to a leak on reassembly. Here are some pics of the trans apart.









      Here is what the other half of the trans case looks like inside.







      Now very gently lift out the gear stacks and shift forks. If you have to turn the trans over for something, be very cautious not drop the differential which is the much larger gear you can see in the picture with all the bolts in it. Once the gear stacks and shift forks are all free the diff will come out with out any other work.






      Here is a shot of the trash magnet that sits at the very bottom of the transmission and collects garbage. If I were building this tans, I would spend the $10 and buy a neodymium rare earth magnet that has a much stronger pulling force. Make sure it is grade N38 SH or above to insure that the magnetic force is not lost when the magnet heats up. I will update this thread with the exact dimensions of the magnet.







      Shot of the diff out side the trans, this would be a good time to install a Qualife.






      The shift forks out of the trans. One is missing from this photo.





      This is what I've been running inside this trans for the last 5,000 mi or so. AMSoil GL4 75w90 Trans lube synthetic. No trans problems, with upgraded power and some aggressive driving. The shift quality also improved with this fluid.




      I'm going to try to put together a web site with more Volvo FAQ's so that things don't just get lost forever in the depths of the forum.
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    3. #2
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      I'm confused. The collar gear takes the drive from one side of the diff? Doesn't that mean that the rear wheels are coupled with the front right wheel? Does the diff somehow act as the FL/FR and the front/rear diff at the same time?
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    4. #3
      Member FORD420diesel's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Mike A View Post
      I'm confused. The collar gear takes the drive from one side of the diff? Doesn't that mean that the rear wheels are coupled with the front right wheel? Does the diff somehow act as the FL/FR and the front/rear diff at the same time?
      You're close! The right front axle actually slides through the hollow center of that collar gear, and engages at a different spot inside that differential. When you replace the collar gear and you install the front passenger axle, you have to do so carefully so that you don't disturb the seals on the inside of that collar gear; the axle goes farther into the transmission. I don't really know how to describe it, but no, the differential inside the transmission acts ONLY for the front wheels.

      -Steve
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      Junior Member KhaosTactic's Avatar
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      Great write up, thanks man

    7. #5
      Junior Member Dietz 11 R's Avatar
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      Good job, great pictures!
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    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by FORD420diesel View Post
      You're close! The right front axle actually slides through the hollow center of that collar gear, and engages at a different spot inside that differential. When you replace the collar gear and you install the front passenger axle, you have to do so carefully so that you don't disturb the seals on the inside of that collar gear; the axle goes farther into the transmission. I don't really know how to describe it, but no, the differential inside the transmission acts ONLY for the front wheels.

      -Steve
      Ah, I see. Cheers dude.
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    9. #7
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      The collar is directly connected the the final drive gear case, the case drives the pinion gear shaft(s) and the axle gears are driven by the pinions. Pinions in this context are also known as spider gears.

      Maybe I should know, but what is this trans being dismantled for? The magnet looks great. That is light amount of metal for gearboxes I have taken apart that had no bad bearing or any real issues. Like gearboxes taken apart because a roll pin fell out or broke or someoen removed a wrong bolt and the reverse lever fell out of place. Ones with bad bearings or other problems were loaded with metal as expected.
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    10. #8
      Member andyb5's Avatar
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      Great write-up, very nice work!
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    11. #9
      Junior Member daniel2296's Avatar
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      That's awesome, thanks for the post!
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    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by cattlecar View Post
      The collar is directly connected the the final drive gear case, the case drives the pinion gear shaft(s) and the axle gears are driven by the pinions. Pinions in this context are also known as spider gears.

      Maybe I should know, but what is this trans being dismantled for? The magnet looks great. That is light amount of metal for gearboxes I have taken apart that had no bad bearing or any real issues. Like gearboxes taken apart because a roll pin fell out or broke or someoen removed a wrong bolt and the reverse lever fell out of place. Ones with bad bearings or other problems were loaded with metal as expected.

      "If any of you are pulling out hair wondering why I took apart a perfect looking trans, this is from my parts car that was hit in the front. It broke the case in 4-5 spots, and also seems to have bent the surface where the trans mounts to the motor."


      I promise I'm not crazy, the case is FUBAR.
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    13. #11
      Member titan joe's Avatar
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      Cool thread. I looked at the pics multiple times. I've always wondered how Volvo got power to the angle gear collar. Right off the carrier. I knew it had to be undifferentiated I just always figured that they would pull power off before the final reduction. Looks like Volvo ran it to the final reduction, unreduced it in the angle gear and then reduced it back down again in the rear end. Plenty of gearing. I've always wanted to Know the final drive ratio too. 3.7 answers that. Do you know the ratio for the angle gear. It really could be anything as long as the rear end matched? Also, you got any pics of the damage? That way people will believe you when you say it's FUBAR.
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    14. #12
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      97-2000 used 1:3.31 angle gear and an inverse 3.31:1 ring and pinion in rear.
      2001 and later all use 1:2.62 and 2.62:1 in rear. They slowed down the driveshaft when they changed to a new diff in rear. THe 97-2000 used the existing rear end parts Volvo had made and used in their rear drivers for years.
      2004 V70R GT 255K miles purchased 9/15/12. Had several R company cars in the past and had to have one of my own.
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      All the pic links broken?
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      Photobucket can suck the fattest part of my as s right now.
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    17. #15
      Looks like not a single picture still works with this. Where ever I had these pictures hosted is no longer working. I'm going to have to spend some time and go back through all of my saved photos and fix this walk though.
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    18. #16
      Junior Member NorthWestR's Avatar
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      We sure would appreciate you re-uploading pictures if you get a chance!
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    19. #17
      Posting a quick update for you everyone. I finally found a back up copy of the pictures for this. I'm going to have to spend some more time going back throught all of this again and make sure everything is working right and I will post a new thread with an updated walk through for everyone when I'm ready.
      2004 V70R m/t Parting Out see classifieds https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...per-spare-tire
      2006 V70R Sonic Blue A/T new!
      1994 Nissan 300 zx twin turbo

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