Exhaust Camshaft Front Seal Leak, 2005 2.5T
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    1. #1
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Exhaust Camshaft Front Seal Leak, 2005 2.5T

      So the Gotcha sisters (Shoulda, Woulda and Coulda) came to visit sometime in the last week and left me a leaking front exhaust camshaft seal @ 142k miles. I did a full PCV service @ 110k and things were not very clogged so I'm suspecting it's just normal wear and tear.
      When I did the timing belt @ 100k, I was feeling like I was pretty smart to do a new water pump while everything was apart. I never thought about the front seals but am thinking quite a bit about them now…
      I know there are quite a few folks who believe a new water pump on a timing belt change is overkill but I would personally suggest that, if it won’t break the bank when you do your next timing belt, have both the front cam seals done as well.
      For what it’s worth…
      Last edited by ggleavitt; 05-19-2014 at 01:40 PM. Reason: typo

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    3. #2
      Member Racer_S's Avatar
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      i did this job shortly after discovering it on my 03, PO completely neglected the issue

      those cam bolts are a PITA, you can actually feel the cam twisting inside the head trying to break it loose. something like 90 ft-lbs


      this what happens if you do nothing, and thats just the cover.. it was all over the belt, pulleys and oil pooled up on the lower engine cover/skidplate
      Last edited by Racer_S; 05-19-2014 at 03:55 AM.
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    4. #3
      Junior Member yenga80's Avatar
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      Mine was leaking also but spraying on the top cover. Couldn't determine where it was actually leaking from but i did end up removing both vvt cams and visually checking the cam seals which both appeared to be dry. Put back together and no more leaks! Strange. Also checked the crank seal but that was inconclusive as it had oil dumped on it when I took one of the cam plugs out and didn't catch the oil. Next time it comes apart they're definelty getting replaced. Too much work to not.
      -Andy

      HERS: 2007 Black S80 3.2
      MINE: 2004 White XC90 AWD 2.5T
      & 1996 Dodge Ram Cummins turbo diesel 12V

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    6. #4
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Going to do front and rear seals to get it out of the way, have the specialized tools (crank and cam lock, etc) in hand. In this regard, does anyone know of an idiots guide to the VVT adjustment?
      Lots of information on other sites but VADIS makes it seem pretty complicated. I'm pretty sure it's not but wanted to ask in advance. Something relatively straight forward would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    7. #5
      Member Mr. P's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ggleavitt View Post
      So the Gotcha sisters (Shoulda, Woulda and Coulda) came to visit sometime in the last week and left me a leaking front exhaust camshaft seal @ 142k miles. I did a full PCV service @ 110k and things were not very clogged so I'm suspecting it's just normal wear and tear.
      When I did the timing belt @ 100k, I was feeling like I was pretty smart to do a new water pump while everything was apart. I never thought about the front seals but am thinking quite a bit about them now…
      I know there are quite a few folks who believe a new water pump on a timing belt change is overkill but I would personally suggest that, if it won’t break the bank when you do your next timing belt, have both the front cam seals done as well.
      For what it’s worth…
      Well at least you were not visited by the Pigg sisters, Ima and Ura.

      good luck,

      keep us posted, I may be having similar issues in awhile.

      best,

      P
      2005 XC70 2.5 AWD, 2008 XC90 3.2 AWD, 1983 928S 5-speed, 1984 944, 1990 S2 Cabriolet, 1974 TVR 2500-M..

    8. #6
      Junior Member yenga80's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ggleavitt View Post
      Going to do front and rear seals to get it out of the way, have the specialized tools (crank and cam lock, etc) in hand. In this regard, does anyone know of an idiots guide to the VVT adjustment?
      Lots of information on other sites but VADIS makes it seem pretty complicated. I'm pretty sure it's not but wanted to ask in advance. Something relatively straight forward would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
      When I put my vvt cams back on I followed the vida instructions exactly. I have the 2010 vida software. It looks complicated but it's not. If you need more detailed instructions I can get for you tomorrow. But if you have the software just follow the steps.
      -Andy

      HERS: 2007 Black S80 3.2
      MINE: 2004 White XC90 AWD 2.5T
      & 1996 Dodge Ram Cummins turbo diesel 12V

    9. #7
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Soooo....
      New seals and everything was put back only to discover that the leak is coming from the Exhaust VVT pulley itself, not the seal. For those considering the cam seal job in future, crank and cam locking tools are a must (search for "volvo camshaft locking tool", buy the kit which includes both the cam and the crank lock or look around to see how others do it with just the cam lock tool). Did a new T-belt and tensioner also as the old belt was relatively oil fouled.
      Don't want to lie and suggest everything went back perfectly, had a CEL for intake cam position low (ECM-670D) and had to make an adjustment to the pully wheel after the fact but, other than going through all the motions only to have to go back in and basically do it all over again, it's about as reasonable (labor-wise) as doing a PCV service.
      Last edited by ggleavitt; 05-26-2014 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Add clarification for cam versus crank lock tools

    10. #8
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Hopefully my last update. Got a great deal on a VVT pulley with overnight (thanks to an outstanding internet reseller in Illinois!) and installed it with another new seal just to be safe. Now no more leaks. Looking back, I noticed that the pulley had quite a bit of in/out play (maybe a little more than 5mm?) when I pulled it to do the seals, the new one has nearly none. Likely the camshaft seal was okay to begin with but when the pulley moved out under pressure the seal lip got compromised. Fingers crossed I'm good to go. Would be interesting to hear about other 2.5T XC90 VVT pulley failures, see quite a few on the R sites but nearly nothing here.

    11. #9
      Junior Member yenga80's Avatar
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      Glad you got it fixed. I just saw your pm the other day sorry didn't get back to ya it went to my junk mail folder. Yeah I noticed a little slop in and out with my vvts also. I thought my vvt seals were ok the ones on the outside that are behind the torx plugs. That could be the culprit for some people. How much was your new vvt sprocket?
      -Andy

      HERS: 2007 Black S80 3.2
      MINE: 2004 White XC90 AWD 2.5T
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    12. #10
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      $236 before shipping (best price I could find) and was in stock (big selling point!). Normally don't give out names on this site but I had such an outstanding experience working with them that I feel the need to share. http://www.volvopartslisle.com/

    13. #11
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      Reviving a relatively old thread, but I was pointed to this post by a member of another volvo forum - and I seem to have the exact issue you're describing.

      Do you happen to remember how much the old hub moved in/out (mine seems to be moving 2.5mm, compared to around 1mm for the intake). I had assumed that the exhaust moves more by design, but maybe not...

      Did replacing the hub fix your issue?

      thanks in advance.

      extensive thread on my experience with this here, if you have time to kill: http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-x...-needed-81251/

    14. #12
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Yes, replacing the exhaust hub solved my oil leak problem. On the earlier part of the thread, I noted around 5mm front/back play. It may have been closer to 4mm but it was far more than the new hub, easily double. Have the old hub around somewhere as a souvenir, can measure again if you would like but it’s sloppy to say it nicely.

      To be sure, the internal o-rings in the exhaust hub were shot, that may have been where the leak was coming from or it may have been that there was so much play that under higher duty cycles of the VVT solenoid, the increased oil pressure caused the hub to be pushed out and compromised the seal. I could never figure out which scenario but yes, replacing the hub with a second new OEM seal resolved my issue. Speaking of which, I used a generic seal kit http://www.otctools.com/products/cra...al-service-kit to do my seals, did NOT push them in by hand. And I went exactly to the back edge of the bevel with the front part of the seal as per what I thought was in the instructions, pretty much the same as is in your post.

      I have a new intake hub, bought after the fact but have not installed it yet. I decided to do it when I noticed reasonable play in the intake as well, nowhere near the amount of the exhaust but I figured it would be wise to get both hubs out of the way as I’m keeping the car for a few years more and I have a theory of paying forward on maintenance items BEFORE they fail (preventative maintenance in lieu of car payments).

      Good write-up on your experience and hopefully replacing the hub will fix your problem. If not, I’ll be keenly interested in learning what did. Good luck!

    15. #13
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      On the issue of tool to press in the new Cam Seal, I use the 1.5-inch PVC Plumbing Coupler as in the thread below for a 1998 S70:
      http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=53722

      So:

      * For Volvo 850, S70, V70 with 2.3L, 2.4L engine (without VVT), the Cam Seal O.D. is 57.30 mm, and this PVC coupler works great.

      * For let's say 2005 XC90 2.5T with VVT, the Cam Seal O.D. is 65.43 mm, you may need to find a different PVC coupler to fit.

    16. #14
      Member Hong Kong's Avatar
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      I changed all 3 seals and now sleep nice.
      My service guy didnt changed on big service
      on 177000 km and of course this crap of parts
      made in China for Volvo leaking...

      XC90 2.5T VOR AWD 2006 320.600 km
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    17. #15
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      Old post but I need help re PNs for 2005 XC90 2.5T with 120K.
      See photo on engine.

      I have checked FCPEuro, Rmeuropean, Volvo websites but it is confusing...

      Can someone verify for me re PN and qty?

      - Front: dual VVT (YELLOW arrows), so I assume PN 9458309 (I will use Corteco brand) qty = 2.

      - Rear: all I see is one Intake CPS (RED Arrow). So PN 9443310 qty =1 for now.
      - The mystery is: what is hidden behind the upper engine mount (BLUE Arrow), is it a plain cap or a CPS?



      XC90-Cam-Seals.jpg

    18. #16
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Yep, Exhaust CPS is there.
      Engine B5452T2 for the North American XC90. Front seals are 51x65x7mm, Corteco 20026695B. Rear are 30x41x7, Corteco 12001192B.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 200k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 130k

    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by ggleavitt View Post
      Yep, Exhaust CPS is there.
      Engine B5452T2 for the North American XC90. Front seals are 51x65x7mm, Corteco 20026695B. Rear are 30x41x7, Corteco 12001192B.
      Hello,

      For 2005 XC90 2.5T 120K miles (I have oil leak in the front subframe, pass side), plan to replace BOTH front cam seals using Corteco.

      Question: on the REAR, the cam housing is held by 2 Torx bolts, is there a cam seal in the REAR side? If so, I may replace it while there...
      Or replace the seal later bc it is easier on the rear side...

    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
      Hello,

      For 2005 XC90 2.5T 120K miles (I have oil leak in the front subframe, pass side), plan to replace BOTH front cam seals using Corteco.

      Question: on the REAR, the cam housing is held by 2 Torx bolts, is there a cam seal in the REAR side? If so, I may replace it while there...
      Or replace the seal later bc it is easier on the rear side...
      I think I mentioned this to you on the other forum. There are exhaust seals at the rear (driver's side) of the engine. You replace both camshaft seals while you are there and doing the front camshaft seals, VVT o-rings, and end plugs (has o-rings that crush). Everything has to be removed to get to them because the camshaft locking tool bolts to the rear of the camshafts.

      Buy 1 extra front seal and 1 extra rear seal in case you accidentally install them crooked or accidentally damage it. They are cheap and you cannot run the engine without them.

      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...orteco-9443310

      If you are asking if there is a separate camshaft position sensor (CPS) housing seal, then no. The oil seal is the above linked.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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