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    1. #1
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      drum puller sources

      Time to yank the drums. I see a generic puller on eBay that looks a lot like the specific one called for at about $110. Anyone seen any deals lately?

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    3. #2
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      Cheaper and easier to rent...

      http://www.ahern.com/equipment-rental-greenville.php

      George Dill

    4. #3
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      Nice! So they actually carry a similar puller? The auto parts store just has that 3 legged thing.

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by bricksnblocks View Post
      Nice! So they actually carry a similar puller? The auto parts store just has that 3 legged thing.
      Call 864-551-2800 and ask for a hub puller for a 5-lug hub/drum.

      A 3-legged puller will work just fine.

      Have you been through all the Swedespeed threads on hub pulling?

      George Dill

    7. #5
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      I've looked through the threads. I actually tried a 3 legged puller but couldn't get it sitting like I wanted and was worried that I would end up bending a stud or worse.

    8. #6
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      I called the rental place and they said they didn't have one.

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by bricksnblocks View Post
      I called the rental place and they said they didn't have one.
      If not already signup on Amazon Prime...

      http://tinyurl.com/nspuj3z

      ...and get this to your front door free shipping two days.

      This three-legged puller has infinitely-adjustable legs and will pull evenly when properly installed.

      George Dill

      http://sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm

      http://sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.ht...Puller_Designs

    10. #8
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      I'll probably go back and use the 3 leg. It's just really hard to get the feet anywhere near flat against the drum while aligning the center to the axle.
      Plus I need to get this done before my wife sets it on fire and rolls it down the hill.

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by bricksnblocks View Post
      I'll probably go back and use the 3 leg. It's just really hard to get the feet anywhere near flat against the drum while aligning the center to the axle.
      Plus I need to get this done before my wife sets it on fire and rolls it down the hill.
      Have these drums been off since you have owned the car?

      George Dill

    12. #10
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      They've not been off in 20 some odd years. Sitting outside.

    13. #11
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      I got the one that George pointed out on Amazon, the OTC, and it's a great tool for the job. After reading all the forum posts I approached the whole drum pulling thing with some trepidation but it wasn't that bad. I have an old school bronze machinists hammer, size large and just worked it around and it kinda boinked off undramatically. For what its worth I put Kroil on everything I work on that's old and possibly going to be troublesome so that may have helped but the tool is definitely good. Go for it. My drums are done and I'm doing hard lines this weekend. Car on the road soon, after 7 years off!

    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by bricksnblocks View Post
      They've not been off in 20 some odd years. Sitting outside.
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-car-and-forum

      Hub/drum removal - PV, 120 and early 1800:
      Consider doing just one wheel initially. The car is more stable if using jack stands and the learning curve will help on the other wheels.
      We are assuming worse-case here - brake shoes frozen to the drum and ridges on the drum caused by the action of the shoes. This ridge could "grab" the drum during removal efforts. If the shoes are frozen to the drum relieving the hydraulic pressure may not release the shoes as the wheel cylinder could be rusted in place.
      Raise the wheel and safely stabilize the car.
      Remove the wheel/tire, remove the castle nut and washer then replace both with the nut reversed and flush with your end of the halfshaft (axle).
      Place a large flat piece of cardboard under the work area and shoot everything with PB Blaster or equivalent. Don't breath. Spray everything in front and back. Don't be concerned with ruining rubber parts - new stuff is available cheap. Spray any and all connections and fasteners including wheel cylinder bolts, brake line connections, etc.
      Next day…

      From Swedespeed: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...72913-67-drums

      Procedures for removing the rear drum brake (hub) from a '49 Plymouth are the same as the Volvo drums. You will need a portable torch, 5lb hand sledge hammer, 5-lug hub puller, heavy gloves and eye protection. Elevate and stabilize the diff, remove the hub cap, wheel/tire and axle nut/washer.
      Reverse the axle (halfshaft) nut and replace it on the axle to protect the tip of the shaft. Confirm that the brake shoes are fully retracted from the drums and the handbrake action is fully released. If needed, remove accessible components from the backing plate to force the shoes away from the drum. Using the existing lug nuts (reversed), install the 5-lug hub puller so that every puller arm has exactly the same tension when the puller's threaded shaft is perfectly centered/parallel/perpendicular to the center tip of the halfshaft. This position is usually when each lug nut is flush with the end of the lug. Loosen the axle nut just enough to provide a shield should the puller center shaft displace. Maintaining perfect puller alignment/tension tighten the puller center shaft with a large perfect-fit socket wrench. Leave the socket on the puller shaft and give it a single solid whack with the hammer. If the puller shaft can now be tightened more you have moved the hub a small amount. If not get out the torch and apply heat in suspected areas knowing that you are destroying the rubber components inside the hub. Re-align/tighten everything as needed then whack again. Repeat. Remember to the keep the axle nut on the half shaft until the drum has exploded off the halfshaft and yes it will make a big pop. Gather up all your materials, move everything to the other wheel then take a break while you get on the internet to sing praises to Swedespeed.
      --

      From Swedespeed:
      The brake shoes are probably swollen up against the drum and/or locked in place by the ridge worn into the drum by the brake shoes' long-term action. Remove that rubber plug and adjust the adjuster to full no-action. Remove the puller, install the axle washer and nut enough to get the hub back into its original position on the axle. Operate the hand brake vigorously a few times. This is an effort to get the shoes to move away from the drum. Remove the axle nut and washer then thread the nut on backwards enough to protect the end of the halfshaft (axle) and to prevent the puller from spreading the axle end. Install the puller such that each lug will get exactly the same amount of tension and in a direction exactly parallel to the axle. Anything else will kink the pull and add to the frustration. Once the puller is tight whack the center bolt smartly then re-tighten the puller. You may need to back off the axle nut as the hub moves slightly in your direction. Always keep the pull action evenly on each lug and parallel to the axle. When this baby releases it will make a big "pop" and attempt to bond with your front teeth if not tethered by the axle nut. If the hub refuses to budge post pics of your puller arrangement so we can try again Look at the axle end - see that steel pin? This baby will fit at least eight different ways but only one is correct. When the new shoes arrive note that the bonded material does not cover the entire surface of the metal shoe and what appears to be identical matching shoes is not. It is important to get the leading and trailing shoes correctly installed. That intermediate bar that fits between the two shoes will fit at least four ways - only one is correct. Do not assume that the old existing components are/were correctly installed. The factory manual has a pic of the rear brakes. Be sure the hand brake cable and components are fully functional as this is critical to rear brake adjustment.
      --
      http://www.vclassics.com/archive/qdrums.htm
      http://www.vclassics.com/archive/qmshdrum.htm

      --
      Quote Originally Posted by sdewolfe View Post
      Howdy,

      I am a little late to this thread but I wanted to share this with you.

      If the shoes are frozen against the drum and no amount of persuasion is getting that drum off, grind away the heads of the pins on the backing plate that hold the springs that hold the shoes. Then back the adjuster out fully.

      Now use the puller on the drum. It still won't be easy but the drum will come off.

      --
      From Swedespeed: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-(big-picture)

      Visualize your foot pressing on the brake pedal and the rear brake shoes being pushed out to meet the inner surface of the hub/drum. Under perfect conditions the shoes would return to rest once the pedal was released. If the brake cylinders had not been operated for some time and your foot was the first in a number of years then expect the shoes to be locked tightly against the inner surface of the hubs held there by the pistons which are stuck in place due to having been forced through many years of crud/rust in the cylinder. Even with a 5-lug hub puller and torch you will have a helluva time getting the drums to release especially if the axle drift pin is still in place. Safely raise and support the rear of the car. Fully release the tension on the hand brake cable. Remove all brake lines from the rear wheels (I am assuming this is a single-circuit car). Secure old brake fluid in a closed container for eventual discard. Remove the rear wheel brake cylinders and brake adjustment mechanisms. This will be messy and not as simple as it is written. Using the correct tool (clothes hanger) fish around through the openings and work the shoes away from the hubs. While holding your breath for five minutes and with both eyes closed spray the inside of the drum with Blaster or equivalent carcinogenic fluid. Attach 5-lug hub puller and remove drum. When applying great pressure to the hub puller and everything to which it is attached be sure to have the axle nut threaded down the axle with just about 1/4 inch "free" play. You'll know why when the hub finally releases.
      End.

      George Dill

    15. #13
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      Yeah looks like fun. The drums do turn, and the park brakes work somewhat, so I hope its not a worst case scenario even though it has sat for so long.
      I'm looking at making a 5 lug puller at the moment .

    16. #14
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      EDIT!

      Y'all tell me if this makes sense - heah?

      Remove the wheel and tire, axle nut and washer. EDIT! Remove the steel key!

      Replace the nut snug to the drum.

      Spot-weld the nut to the drum.

      Spin the drum CCW.

      If the axle is prevented from turning will the nut and hub come off?

      George Dill
      Last edited by gdill2; 06-22-2014 at 03:07 PM.

    17. #15
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      George doesn't the hub have a key that keeps it from turning on the axle?

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by bobbyz View Post
      George doesn't the hub have a key that keeps it from turning on the axle?
      Indeed - see edit - thanks.

      With the key out do you thing the hub would follow the nut?

      George Dill

    19. #17
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      Still don't know if that would work. The hub and axle are tapered and it takes some pressure and a sharp rap to break tapered things apart. So I don't think you'd get it to turn.
      Then again I've never tried that.

    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by bobbyz View Post
      Still don't know if that would work. The hub and axle are tapered and it takes some pressure and a sharp rap to break tapered things apart. So I don't think you'd get it to turn.
      Then again I've never tried that.
      Sure enough would take some twist to turn the hub.

      Hmmmm...

      How about bracing the hub then pop the clutch in reverse?

      Nah.

      George Dill

    21. #19
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      First attempt at making a puller. Based on a 1975 gran torino drum and some plumbing bits.
      https://db.tt/IuPJjzmW

    22. #20
      Junior Member 64pvolvo1800's Avatar
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      I have a proper puller tool that I'd let go for $100
      12 S60T6 AWD, 98 S70T5M, 98S70M, 64P1800 CorVo

    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by bricksnblocks View Post
      First attempt at making a puller. Based on a 1975 gran torino drum and some plumbing bits.
      https://db.tt/IuPJjzmW
      Looks good from here.

      Consider reversing the Volvo lug nuts to get a flush surface on the Torino drum and confirm that each lug nut is threaded on the same amount.

      Be sure the axle key is removed before using the puller.

      The axle castle nut may not fit under the puller so be alert for when the Volvo drum/hub pops loose.

      Nice work.

      George Dill

    24. #22
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      I'll yank that key out before I try it. Thanks for the tips.
      Probably give it a go this weekend.

    25. #23
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      The makeshift puller broke. Making one out of bricks instead of sticks this time. Will report back.

    26. #24
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    27. #25
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      Only just looked at this thread, a 3 leg puller to pull of a amazon hub you must be joking. If the hub has only recently been removed then yes it would work but I have seen a lot of 5 leg pullers break on 120/1800 rear drums. I have a very sturdy one that I use but also keep some well made copies of the original Volvo puller. A good hub puller is the only special tool you need so not bad to be fair.
      Buy uprated Volvo parts @ http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

      Volvo 240/260 forum http://volvo200crazy.co.uk/

    28. #26
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      I have a buddy in a shop that is going to make one from cold rolled steel. Hopefully stronger than the cast iron drum I first used.

    29. #27
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      I made my own and it worked. LOL the second time. One my welds didn't hold on the 1st try. Not that great but it worked.
      http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/t...xle-puller-972

    30. #28
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      I went to auto zone and put down a deposit but the use was free they accredited my account when I return the brake puller. Changed my drum shoes in a couple hours only b/c the first side put up a fight but the other side came off with no problem. I took pictures so I could reference and also did one side at a time. Additionally while I had all the shoes and brake parts out of the way I changed the brake cylinders. Found it easier to unbolt them first then put an 11mm wrench on the brake nipple but turn the cylinder w/ channel locks for more torque w/disconnecting. Reversed the process when putting the new cylinders on. Also found this was a good time to replace the emergency brake cables.

    31. #29
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      I use a loaner one from auto zone, a three leg puller, work fine.

    32. #30
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      I used a 3-lug puller but rotated it a couple times in between cranking and banging on the drum w/a rubber pallet.

    33. #31
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      A guy gave me a box of old tools when he was moving mostly odd stuff but from time to time something comes in handy. Anyway I got a large Proto puller like this one but only two legs with it. Needed to pull a drum the other day and did it with two but being off center I had to stand on it then wack it with a 3 pounder that worked. Needless to say the drum wasn't on there very well.
      Ordered another leg for it today. I would thing a person could make a ring that would bolt onto all 5 lug nuts with 3 studs to attach to the puller. Some cutting and drilling on an old axle flange with the right bolt pattern might work. Or other thick piece of steel.

    34. #32
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      Thanks for the tips guys!
      Drum puller 2.0 was just completed. Wish me luck.
      https://db.tt/NUxZdv0i

    35. #33
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      That looks fairly buff, maybe the only thing to make beefier will be the center thread, but that's easy to enlarge if it's needed.

      Luck wished.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
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    36. #34
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      The key sits flush with the outboard face of the middle of the drum. How does one remove it with the drum in place?

      Cameron
      Rose City

    37. #35
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      I don't think you can, as the keyway is tapered on the tapered part of the shaft, but straight through the threads. So the key wants to keep going towards the center of the axle as you draw it out. You usually pull the drum first and the key after.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70 2.5T - Ice White - Oak Arena, (almost) bone stock daily driver.
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

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