Front and rear engine mounts
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    1. #1
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      Front and rear engine mounts

      Hi all

      2nd time posting on the XC90 forum. Used to have a S80 which has now been replaced with a 2008 2.5T XC90.

      I have a question regarding the front and rear engine mounts for this engine. How long do these last? I can't find any post on the web on anyone changing these mounts on the XC90. Kinda wonder if they last for a good many miles before needing replacement. And is there a way to determine if these mounts are bad?

      My XC90 currently have 68k miles. I have done the transmission mount, right hand mount and top mount already as they were worn.

      I have a mate with the same year model XC90 as mine. His XC90 has much less miles (42k miles) and his mechanic is saying ALL the mounts need replacing.

      Thanks!

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    3. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by NikMA View Post
      Hi all

      2nd time posting on the XC90 forum. Used to have a S80 which has now been replaced with a 2008 2.5T XC90.

      I have a question regarding the front and rear engine mounts for this engine. How long do these last? I can't find any post on the web on anyone changing these mounts on the XC90. Kinda wonder if they last for a good many miles before needing replacement. And is there a way to determine if these mounts are bad?

      My XC90 currently have 68k miles. I have done the transmission mount, right hand mount and top mount already as they were worn.

      I have a mate with the same year model XC90 as mine. His XC90 has much less miles (42k miles) and his mechanic is saying ALL the mounts need replacing.

      Thanks!
      The answer is "it all depends". As in, it all depends upon the quality of the rubber in the mount itself, the environmental conditions that the mounts are subjected to, and the wear and tear subjected to them by the individual owner.
      Former: 2005 V70R (RIP)
      Current: 2009 XC70 T6

    4. #3
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      So first things first, it’s very interesting to hear about a 2008 with a 2.5T, this engine was not sold after MY2007 in the US although it appears that these variants were still produced for delivery to other countries for a few years more. For those of us who have enjoyed the relative reliability of the B5254T2 and AW50/51 AWD powertrain, it’s unfortunate that we were not included.

      To your point of mounts, I have 145K miles on my vehicle and have replaced the upper engine mount twice (round bushing to square on the first replacement, square to square plus the cross-member to frame mounts with the second), the lower torque rod mount and the right side engine mount once. The right side engine mount was not broken like the others so really did not need replacing but I replaced anyway while in doing another job.
      Assume the mounts you refer to are the front and rear sub-frame to engine, correct? These are also known as front/rear engine pads. Seems like not many getting replaced hence the lack of posted instruction (see http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...r-engine-mount for an example and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHFufHp_Qpw for a video on an 850). If anyone has done this before on an XC90, feel free to chime in.

      If you follow the VIDA instructions for the rear mount, it’s quit a job and requires the sub-frame be dropped almost 100mm. The front is relatively simple. How to tell if they need replaced? Knowing that you have new top/bottom/side mounts installed already, you could stomp on it from a dead stop and see if the engine shudders heavily (let off the gas the moment it does!!!). Or you could remove the top and bottom and side mounts and give the engine a good shake. A visual inspection wouldn’t hurt if you can get a mirror up there. MVS post http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=60920 has some photos for one that is pretty old and failing. If you do check, please report your method and your findings. Both mounts are very beefy so I think it’ll be interesting if you respond that they’re truly broken.

      A more common failure point in the lower engine area are the sub-frame bushings. You’ll need to pull the bolts off to get a good look at them, keep in mind that these are torque stretch bolts under 105nm PLUS 120 degrees. They are supposed to be replaced with new if removed. One good option now is to get inserts put in and keep the bushings in reasonably good condition over time. IPD has these http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8969/...ing-insert-kit for sale and I have them on my vehicle since 30k miles with good results. Can’t agree with the price but it’s the only game in town. Again, do yourself a favor and use new bolts (PN 985111) if you do this job and torque to spec.

      Last but not least, your mate is being told he needs to replace ALL the mounts at 42k miles? Curious to know where he is driving…

      Good luck!

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    6. #4
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      Hi ggleavitt!

      The 2.5T is still being offered in the XC90 here even till 2014. Volvo is also offering the D5 variant but it's not selling well. I bought the 2.5T over the D5 as I read good feedback on its reliability and there's more DIY knowledge on the 2.5T. Another point is that there's hardly non-dealer support for the D5 be it parts availability or independent shops willing to work on the D5. I'll be at the mercy of the dealer with a D5!

      I find the 2.5T reliable so far but the performance is somewhat not to my expectation. Bit sluggish to get up to speed. This is compared to my old S80 with a 2.0T which was a blast to drive.

      To your questions:

      Correct, I'm referring to the front and rear pads.

      Stomping from stop, the engine is fine with no shudder.

      I will see if I can visualise the front pad and take a picture.

      I have messed around with the sub frame bushings on my old S80. I have put in the IPD inserts you've mentioned on the S80. I found these inserts stiffening up the S80 chassis and giving a better road feel and cornering but at the expense of more vibration transmitted inside the cabin. Have you experienced any more vibration with the IPD inserts? And seems you're happy with these inserts on your XC90, in what way has it improved the ride?

      My friend just bought the car. He's the 3rd owner. According to the 2nd owner, the XC90 was first a company car. Then with the 2nd owner is was more a weekend car for taking the family out to shopping malls etc, hence the low mileage for a 2008 MY. The XC90 is a city car so I'm pretty surprised the shop advising him to replace all the mounts at that sort of mileage!

      Thanks!

    7. #5
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      If you're not shuddering when you stomp on it, I would think you're good for now. For the inserts, I do feel a little more vibration but it is not excessive. The XC90 is pretty heavy so it is not too noticeable. Figure it is an investment now and my preference rather than fixing all 4 of them later. Will be interesting to hear if someone has replaced a pad (or pads) and under what circumstance. Anyone care to add?
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 200k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 130k

    8. #6
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      An update. Been changing the tranny fluid and inspected the pads. There's a decent amount of space to see the pads actually.

      Front pads





      Rear pads







      Now to my untrained they look kinda fine?? I don't have a new pad for comparison. I wonder if the those metal straps can be used as a guide to see if the pads are bad? Loose strap - squashed pads? Taut strap - good pads?

      Any opinions anyone on the state of my front and rear pads?
      Last edited by NikMA; 07-28-2014 at 10:33 PM.

    9. #7
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Update 1/10/15- My front pad is cracked at the top and some damping fluid is coming out. Looks like I need to do mine now @151k miles. Had done new top/bottom and passenger side mounts plus have IPD inserts in my sub-frame bushings, didn't think front and rear pads needed it but front sure does now. Would ideally like to do the rear at the same time, maybe will when all is said and done (subframe needs loosened and partially dropped?) but front will be replaced in a week or two once I have the part.

      Maybe it's not as uncommon as I might have led the OP to believe !

      **Side note- didn't notice anything odd about how it drives, just saw the fluid leaking out when I was doing an inspection after changing oil.
      Last edited by ggleavitt; 01-10-2015 at 05:30 PM. Reason: typo

    10. #8
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      Front pad is replaced. Since I don't have an overhead modular engine lift, I used a 2ft 2x4 with high lift jack under the oil pan (car up on ramps for easier access). Job is pretty straight forward, 3 bolts on top part of the mount bracket at engine, 1 bolt on sub-frame. Only challenge is that the engine needs to be lifted quite a bit to get the mount bracket bolts to line up. Drive is now a little more solid, engine start seems little more crisp but otherwise nothing dramatic to report. Mine was cracked around 1/3 the way around at top of the "V" shaped part and the damping fluid inside was gone. Too lazy to post a photo, see above for what it is supposed to look like when it's not broke. Can't say for how long it's been bad, just noticed last week.

    11. #9
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      I'm planning to tackle this after a few months of my 2.5T shaking when shifting in and out of P and D. Getting worse and annoying. I can't think of any other reasons except for the big front and rear hydraulic mounts. I had a look at new ones and the ones on mine looks quite squashed compared to the new one.

      ggleavitt, I'm planning to use the jack under engine method for this. For the front pad, in order to lift the engine adequately, did you had to remove the top mount, transmission torque mount and right mount? I gather you haven't replaced the rear one? I'm thinking of doing both front and rear. Any tips for removing the sway bar (to access the rear mount)?

      Thanks!

    12. #10
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      You don't have to remove the swaybar to get at the lower bolt on the rear engine pad. I have found that I can use a pry bar to move it enough to sneak a 13mm socket with an extension between the swaybar and the subframe.
      2007 S40 T5

    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by qaz996 View Post
      You don't have to remove the swaybar to get at the lower bolt on the rear engine pad. I have found that I can use a pry bar to move it enough to sneak a 13mm socket with an extension between the swaybar and the subframe.
      Thanks for the very helpful tip!
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 130k miles

    14. #12
      Junior Member txag_xc90's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by NikMA View Post

      I can't find any post on the web on anyone changing these mounts on the XC90. Kinda wonder if they last for a good many miles before needing replacement. And is there a way to determine if these mounts are bad?

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?176701-DIY-Engine-Mounts
      Last edited by txag_xc90; 08-26-2015 at 04:09 PM.

    15. #13
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      Good of you to drop by. I have had a look at that thread, many times actually. Could you repair the link to the instructions? It's not working anymore. I'm getting a not found error 404.

      Thanks!
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 130k miles

    16. #14
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      Got the job done today. The rear one took hours as my wrench couldn't fit in there for the bottom bolt despite pushing the sway bar with a prybar.

      Both front and rear were compressed.

      The old one is on the right.



      Wouldn't have the confidence to do this if it wasn't for this forum. Thanks everyone!
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 130k miles

    17. #15
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      After 58k miles on these aftermarket hydraulic front and rear mounts, (I forgot to make a note of the brand), I replaced them today with Lemforder mounts.

      Front was straightforward as described in write ups and these vids

      https://youtu.be/3SzGVD-Vc-Y

      https://youtu.be/UA7qjGjg8Yc

      2nd video is from FCP.

      Had an amnesia episode and couldn't recall how I removed the rear mount last time. Took hours trying all manners of tricks to assess that bottom 13mm bolt. Tried again to pry the sway bar away - not possible as not enough leeway to get a socket extension with a u-joint in. Almost contemplated dropping the rear sub-frame and loosening the sway bar brackets.

      Finally, I sneaked in a 1/4 inch 13 mm socket and wrench above the sway bar. With an extension on the handle managed to break free the bolt.

      IMG_20200801_124933.jpg

      Getting the bottom of the mount aligned to the bottom bolt was tricky. If you secure the mount at the top with the nut, the bottom thread would not align with the bottom bolt.

      Job done. Took for a drive. Clunks gone. Annoying rubber noise when decelerating gone. I believe this rubbery noise was from the right hand engine pad. It's relatively new but I can see signs of stress on the sides of the rubber.

      Inspected the old and new mounts. Cannot see any way reliable way of visually identifying a bad hydraulic. With mounts out of the car and not under pressure, the old one was a tad shorter than new. But once it's on the car supporting the engine it will be compressed.

      The video from FCP showed using a 3/8 inch drive for the rear mount bolt. I only have 1/4 and a 1/2 sockets. Though the volvo he was working on wasn't a XC90, it'd be interesting if a 3/8 socket and bar with u-joint would actually fit in that small opening.
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 130k miles

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