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    1. #456
      Member thefisch33's Avatar
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      What does the wheel bearing lock brace do?


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      2010 s40 T5 AWD M66 a tribute to Heico's ODIN HS4

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    3. #457
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by thefisch33 View Post
      What does the wheel bearing lock brace do?
      It's a "common" problem for P1s to have the hub bearing separate from the knuckle, which is even more common on lowered vehicles or cars running aggressive offset wheels or spacers.
      If the bearing separates by even 1mm, it will throw a number of errors (ABS, TRACS, BLIS, and a few others), while codes will only show ABS faults.

      It's not common enough for Volvo to issue an extended warranty, but it was common enough that they made a part to prevent it from happening.

      I was experiencing all of the symptoms of this issue, so I purchased a new hub/knuckle assembly and installed these brackets at the same time as preventative maintenance. It ultimately turned out to be a pinch in the ABS wiring, but I never would have tracked that down had I not eliminated the other variables first.

    4. #458
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Last night, I finally got around to replacing all of the clutch lines. It was actually a pretty easy job since I don't have the battery in the engine bay.

      The O rings between some of the connectors were definitely a bit worn. While I was at it, I also removed the shock dampener from the fluid feed into the slave cylinder. As Hussein mentioned, this helps moderate the flow of fluid, which is also why there is a bit of a lag when quickly changing gear. I'm not sure whether my problem was O rings, which were letting air in but not fluid out (completely possible), or this dampener getting stuck (a likely culprit since my recent clutch issues often occur after a few quick gear changes). Another possibility is that the dampener was getting stuck, then allowing the system to suck in air from the worn O rings.
      Either way, air was definitely getting into the system and I was not losing any fluid.

      New vs. Old feed line between the reservoir and master cylinder.




      First section of the hard line running from the master to the slave. New on top, old on bottom. You'll notice that the rubber top piece slid straight off the line. Had to pull it out of the female connector before installing the new line. You'll also notice that the old line clearly has a smaller opening than the new line.







      Old vs. New line that feeds into the slave.



      Blurry pictures, but here is where I removed the shock dampener.





      Carefully removed using a screw.



      I will need to be a bit more careful with hard launches and quick gear changes now that this dampener is removed. But this definitely eliminated the lag!

      Every component of my hydraulic clutch system has been replaced, so I'm really hoping this solved all the problems.
      After doing a full flush/bleed, the clutch is now firmer than ever. I've bled this clutch at least a dozen times in the last two years and it has never felt this great. Put about 200 miles on it since yesterday and so far so good. I'll be abusing the car this weekend, so we'll see how she does!

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    6. #459

    7. #460
      Junior Member nathanlevang's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post


      Bet you were on that RS's tail the entire run 😋

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    8. #461
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nathanlevang View Post
      Bet you were on that RS's tail the entire run 😋
      He was pulling out of the turns much sooner than I was, but I caught him every straight.
      From a roll in 3rd, the C30 was actually faster. But I drove the RS with launch control and it's completely insane off the line.
      The C30 is ~320hp at the crank and 345ftlbs. The RS is ~350hp at the crank and 350ftlbs. Considering how much heavier the RS is, it was no surprise.

      Though, we're talking about a Stage 3 10 year old C30 vs. a stock new RS. I can't imagine what the RS will be like with a few bolt ons and a tune!

    9. #462
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Yesterday I ran over ANOTHER dead opossum. 4th opossum to cause damage to my car, 2nd time an opossum has ripped out an O2 sensor.
      I pulled over and couldn't reach the dangling sensor, family emergency at 3am so I couldn't turn around. This is what happens to an O2 sensor dragging on the ground for 120 miles.



      Swapped in a replacement, rewired it, and been good to go.

      On the bright side, my new 16000 lumin 25" LED light bar came in the mail. My old light bar location blocked to much of the intercooler.


      The second location hindered light output more than I preferred.


      So I cut another hold in my car...



      Significantly more light, no obstructions, and even more of the intercooler is exposed as compared to the stock opening.



      For anyone interested in how it looked without the light bar:





      I also wrapped my center caps for some more blue details. It was a busy day!


    10. #463
      Moderator DevolvR's Avatar
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      Ingenius as always. Love how aggressive the front bumper looks now with the larger openings.
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    11. #464
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Thanks Alfred!

      I got a matching Sparco passenger seat and made new skins for both, so they now match.
      Weighed the stock manual seat, it was right at 60lbs. I never weighed my power seat, but I'd guess it was close to 70lbs with all the motors.
      These sparco seats weigh 12lbs each.


    12. #465

    13. #466
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Inspired by Fiesta RS style spoiler. I'm sure everyone will hate it, but I love how it turned out. Balances out the appearance with the front and side splitters.



      Haven't tested it at significant speed yet. But coming from the S40, I always found the back end of the C30 to feel a bit light. We'll see if this plays any role other than cosmetics.






    14. #467
      Junior Member B-more's Avatar
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      Interesting mod... Don't think you nailed it yet... I've thinking if a wing riser like those used on the Focus ST would work for the c30. Keeping it a bit more subtle for my car.

      Laser Blue 2000 v70R
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    15. #468
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      ^ That's clean, but could be challenging since the OEM spoiler is just glued to the glass. You might also consider the DRIVe spoiler or RX aftermarket spoiler if you just want something different than the stock r-design spoiler.

      Originally I was working on a spoiler extension. It definitely added to the overall appearance, but it wasn't looking the way I wanted it to.
      For that project, I was using this as inspiration:


      These are the best picture I have of the prototype.






      I'm happy with what I have now. I may change it up in the future, but I like how it stands out and actually looks aftermarket. Plus no one else will have it.

    16. #469
      Junior Member B-more's Avatar
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      Yes the wing spacer is a bit harder for the c30 because of it being glued to the window but it's not impossible.

      I've been hanging out with a lot of ST/RS crowd so I've been getting ideas from them. I've looked at cutting up a wing extension from another car to fit the R-D wing. But you'd have to find one with the right end contours and then you could cut a section out of the middle to get the right length. Another idea I had was stacking one on top of the R-D version to make a bi-wing. Kind of similar to the real Polestar c30 AWD prototype but not with the eDrive. But again I'm trying to stay low key. And I hate the eDrive wing unless it's like the Polestar set up and what is the RX spoiler?

      I'm curious to hear more about your extension. How did you make it and did you attach it?
      Laser Blue 2000 v70R
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      Titanium 2011 c30R

    17. #470
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Here's the RX spoiler. Pretty similar to the DRIVe, but sticks out a bit more and a bit higher. Seen it in person and I like that it's different, but the lines are a little to sharp compared to the rest of the car.



      There was a guy on C30Crew who was mocking up a replica DRIVe wing to mount on the DRIVe spoiler. Looked pretty similar to the P* Concept, but I don't know what ever came of his project...

      My wing started in life as an over-the-top universal wing. With little modification, that center indentation mated perfectly against the OEM spoiler. I'll have to find the picture of when I rested the whole wing on the car; it was completely ridiculous yet strangely appealing at the same time. Complete overkill on a FWD and not the look I was going for, but it lined up perfectly with the hips of the car. I cut the ends off the R-design spoiler (the portion that goes over the brake lights) and just bolted the new wing on top of the OEM spoiler.

    18. #471
      Junior Member B-more's Avatar
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      I just saw those pictures on your c30crew post. Should have checked there first...

      I was curious about your first extension, not this current one. I'd like to know more about that.
      Laser Blue 2000 v70R
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      Titanium 2011 c30R

    19. #472
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by B-more View Post
      I was curious about your first extension, not this current one. I'd like to know more about that.
      Probably the only time I failed to photo document one of my projects.
      It was a piece of lexan polycarbonate sheeting, cut about 1" taller/wider than the OEM spoiler all the way around. It was bolted to the spoiler from the underside. I know I still have the piece somewhere... So I'll get a picture for reference, just not with it on the car.

    20. #473
      Junior Member B-more's Avatar
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      That would be cool if you could get me a photo of it, I've got the gist of it. Thanks for the info.
      Laser Blue 2000 v70R
      Speedtuning Stage2 @18psi/Forge CBV/IPD drop-in intercooler/R mani/CJ 3"DP/3"duals/EST intake/Delco TCV/Bosch Super Plus/IPD HD COP/CJ delrin subframe mounts/TME AWD springs/TME strutbrace/IPD sways/Koni Sport strut/Nivo 025
      Titanium 2011 c30R

    21. #474
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Had an amazing weekend at the dragon with everyone. I truly feel like I found the absolute limit of the C30, I was driving it at my 10/10 and the car had nothing more to give. Maximum acceleration, maximum braking, pushing the Federals to their loss of grip around 110mph in the bends. It was a weekend of fun and learning and I feel like I came out of it with closer friendships and improved driving skills.

      Also landed a feature of the week on 129photos! Please vote -----> http://www.129photos.com/



      Praises for an accident free weekend for the entire CTD group. But the next day on the way home from work, I was rear ended.
      Stopped at a light, the lady behind me failed to notice and slammed on her brakes at the last minute. She hit me at about 15mph. I came off the brakes to ease the impact and then back on the brakes before she pushed me into the person in front of me. Miraculously, no damage to my car. Checked underneath and the exhaust is hanging straight, panel gap is good, hatch opens, license plate lights work. Just a few scratches to the vinyl, which can easily be replaced. Got her insurance info and found out it's not her first time hitting someone; her car showed it.

      My neck was hurting pretty good for most of yesterday evening, but I feel 100% today. It could have been much worse, so I'm very grateful everything was okay both for me and for the car. I'm not ready to part ways with the Volvo!

    22. #475
      Member thefisch33's Avatar
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      MyNameIdeasWereTaken C30 Progression Thread

      So now your neck hurts and you can't work 🤣
      Better Caul Saul

      '10 s40 m66 awd
      '12 c30
      2010 s40 T5 AWD M66 a tribute to Heico's ODIN HS4

    23. #476

    24. #477
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      I usually avoid stickers, but this is my personal slogan with the C30 and I wanted to put it somewhere.


    25. #478
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      Your volvo c30 is one of the best looking c30 if ever seen its nice its fast and its costume i love it o have i question i have my c30 now for one year im from belgium by the way and i waned to put also a 4 exhaust pipe systhem do you made it by yourself or did you buy certain parts

    26. #479

    27. #480
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by cecemelk201 View Post
      Your volvo c30 is one of the best looking c30 if ever seen its nice its fast and its costume i love it o have i question i have my c30 now for one year im from belgium by the way and i waned to put also a 4 exhaust pipe systhem do you made it by yourself or did you buy certain parts
      Thanks for the kind words!

      It's an Elevate exhaust (with catless 3" downpipe and resonator delete). I simply replaced the Elevate dual tips with quad tips.
      The quad tips are for the Chevy Camaro.

    28. #481
      Junior Member onezero's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      drjonez Race Mode switch

      First step is to get the seat out of the way. You can leave the seat in place and simply slide it all the way forward, but I found it easier to just undo the 4 bolts and tilt it back.
      (video for fully removing the seat if you're not familiar with where those four bolts are)



      Pull back the carpet to reveal the Yaw Sensor





      I split the yellow/red wire for my switch



      My write up is for those with the facelift interior.
      Here is the switch for my LED light bar, so I could not put my switch there.



      Here is the switch for the LED light bar in my 04.5 S40. Could be another possible location for a switch.



      In my C30, the plan was to put the switch in place of the useless change cubby.
      With the console trim pulled off, the cubby simply unclips from the bottom.



      I cut a piece of rigid aluminum to fit in that slot, then drilled a hole for my switch. I had to reverse my switch so that when the cover is closed, it remains on (complete circuit for traction control) and I can turn it off for "race mode." I also wrapped that piece of aluminum in black vinyl to make it a little more OEM looking.



      I drilled a hole through the cubby to feed the wires.





      Cubby snapped back in, holding my switch plate in place.



      The end result with race mode "on" (while the switch is turned "off"):



      And for daily driving:



      When race mode is enabled, this is what the dash displays:



      You can flip the switch at any time to disable traction control. To turn traction control back on, the switch my be flipped to complete the circuit for the Yaw sensor and the car will have to be restarted. Upon initial restart, I have no warning lights or messages, all is as it should be.
      MNIWT, have you figured out which fuse is for the ABS system? I would like to take that out but I haven't figured out which fuse is for the ABS system.

    29. #482
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by onezero View Post
      MNIWT, have you figured out which fuse is for the ABS system? I would like to take that out but I haven't figured out which fuse is for the ABS system.
      It's a fuse in your engine bay fuse box, underneath a plastic clip which is there to discourage you from accessing the fuse. I can't remember exactly which fuse it was, but the fuse box cover should have a diagram for it. There's a thread about it somewhere on SwedeSpeed, but I can't find it with a quick search...

    30. #483
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Thanks GRat9717 for the R-design gauge cluster!
      I swapped the blue faces onto my cluster, so no need to reprogram anything. I also opted to keep the black rings surrounding the dials, rather than the navy blue rings with the R-design gauges.


    31. #484
      Member thefisch33's Avatar
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      MyNameIdeasWereTaken C30 Progression Thread

      Redacted my post as it was irrelevant. Where is the delete option?


      '10 s40 m66 awd
      '12 c30
      Last edited by thefisch33; 05-26-2017 at 07:43 PM.
      2010 s40 T5 AWD M66 a tribute to Heico's ODIN HS4

    32. #485
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      Looks good with the 2 colors how did you do it ( i wonna do it to )

    33. #486
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Last night, I finally got around to replacing all of the clutch lines. It was actually a pretty easy job since I don't have the battery in the engine bay.

      The O rings between some of the connectors were definitely a bit worn. While I was at it, I also removed the shock dampener from the fluid feed into the slave cylinder. As Hussein mentioned, this helps moderate the flow of fluid, which is also why there is a bit of a lag when quickly changing gear. I'm not sure whether my problem was O rings, which were letting air in but not fluid out (completely possible), or this dampener getting stuck (a likely culprit since my recent clutch issues often occur after a few quick gear changes). Another possibility is that the dampener was getting stuck, then allowing the system to suck in air from the worn O rings.
      Either way, air was definitely getting into the system and I was not losing any fluid.
      I will need to be a bit more careful with hard launches and quick gear changes now that this dampener is removed. But this definitely eliminated the lag!

      Every component of my hydraulic clutch system has been replaced, so I'm really hoping this solved all the problems.
      After doing a full flush/bleed, the clutch is now firmer than ever. I've bled this clutch at least a dozen times in the last two years and it has never felt this great. Put about 200 miles on it since yesterday and so far so good. I'll be abusing the car this weekend, so we'll see how she does!
      Forgot to ask you about this at Carlisle - do you have the part numbers for the liones you used? Interesting that the replacement has larger ID. Want to cross reference them with the '12 lines. Also, I had to put back the load limiter (drilled out) to prevent the line leaking - with just the rubber seal block installed the line popped out of the 'vent tube' at the trans connection.

      I had the pedal hang routine occur again when I was rapid shifting testing my Hilton tune - not a good thing at all - caused the clutch to slip & revs went way up. I was logging at the time, so I have a record of it. I'm thinking that the small barrel is still impacting flow - can't see any other explaination for the hanging pedal on rapid shift

      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-10-2017 at 03:41 PM.

    34. #487
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Here are the three lines I bought:

      30759394 Hydraulic Line
      30614449 Flex Hose
      31256074 Hydraulic Line

      So far, I haven't had any issues with that dampener removed. On the way to Carlisle with the temp reading at 98°F, after about 9 hours the clutch was starting to go soft again (not shifting quickly, just cruising on the highway, go to change gears, and the clutch was super soft and didn't want to return all the way back up). It hasn't done it since, but I'm starting to wonder if the new lines really did solve my problem entirely.

    35. #488
      Moderator DevolvR's Avatar
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      Looking good as always, love that "Race Mode" Switch and how you implemented it.
      04 S60 R MT Titanium Grey/Nordcap thread Copper Work VX-XX 19" Staggered | DP & Custom Quad Tip Exhaust | 05+ Conversion Exterior & Interior | Sport Kit
      12 XC60 Ice White Wifey's Family Hauler | 3.2 AWD | Heico Kit | Fast 19" FC04A | Running Boards
      12 S60 R-Design Ice White | Bone stock for now
      IG: @devolvR

    36. #489
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Here are the three lines I bought:

      30759394 Hydraulic Line
      30614449 Flex Hose
      31256074 Hydraulic Line

      So far, I haven't had any issues with that dampener removed. On the way to Carlisle with the temp reading at 98°F, after about 9 hours the clutch was starting to go soft again (not shifting quickly, just cruising on the highway, go to change gears, and the clutch was super soft and didn't want to return all the way back up). It hasn't done it since, but I'm starting to wonder if the new lines really did solve my problem entirely.
      Thanks Michael.

      So, with your new line, it used both an oring on the line (in the groove) and that little rubber block on the end?

      Or you left out both the plastic shuttle and the rubber block & had just the line oring seal it? When I tried inserting the line with only the oring, it leaked.

    37. #490
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Or you left out both the plastic shuttle and the rubber block & had just the line oring seal it? When I tried inserting the line with only the oring, it leaked.
      Just the line and O ring sealing it, no signs of it leaking and no air getting in the system.

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