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    1. #526
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by rocketscience55 View Post
      MNIWT, I got a question about the pedal spacer you put in. Could you do a super lazy pedal spacer and simply put a nut behind each of the 3 screws that holds the pedal on to space it out a bit?
      Yep, I actually did this about a year ago in an attempt to test something new. Completely forgot to update this thread about it... But a few washers and it's still very rigid while bumping it out nicely.

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    3. #527

    4. #528
      Junior Member rocketscience55's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Yep, I actually did this about a year ago in an attempt to test something new. Completely forgot to update this thread about it... But a few washers and it's still very rigid while bumping it out nicely.
      Nice! I think for mine I will try just a nut first and then bump from there. I will call this the Ace Hardware pedal spacer
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    6. #529
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Did you end up dropping the brake cooling duct idea then?

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    7. #530
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Ian_Reese View Post
      Did you end up dropping the brake cooling duct idea then?
      I still have future plans for cooling ducts. They would be going through the upper grilles either way, since the intercooler end tanks block the lower grilles.

    8. #531
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Ditched the outdated 4 point Sabelts for updated 5 point camlock G-Forces.


    9. #532
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      Michael - did you ever get to the bottom of your clutch issues? Looking back I don't see any recent references to it.

      Nice tweaks to what you have going. Liking the new lower lighting & seat harnesses.

      I'm also curious if you have had any shifting issues with reverse - I have noticed mine doesn't want to engage on first try as of the last week or so - I only have about 120K, so I wouldn't expect a cable failure yet. Not seeing anything obvious with the cables/linkage. I can't find the bulletin on cable adjustment to check that aspect though...

    10. #533
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Dude! The bottom one looks like a GTR! Nice!

      I always wonder what upgrading the car like this does to your insurance liability wise - you know, couple sprained neck claims from turning so many heads. Lol


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    11. #534
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Michael - did you ever get to the bottom of your clutch issues? Looking back I don't see any recent references to it.

      I'm also curious if you have had any shifting issues with reverse - I have noticed mine doesn't want to engage on first try as of the last week or so - I only have about 120K, so I wouldn't expect a cable failure yet. Not seeing anything obvious with the cables/linkage. I can't find the bulletin on cable adjustment to check that aspect though...
      Nope, every time I think I've fixed it, the problem comes back. I've honestly just learned to live with it... If I'm driving an extensive distance of no gear changes, I'll pop it in neutral and pump the clutch a few times. When competing in events, I'll basically double clutch so as to build up pressure for a predictable engagement point.
      Hopefully soon, I'll have the time to swap in a P2R stock clutch, switch to a single mass flywheel, and replace the slave cylinder again.

      Even at 345ftlbs at the wheels, my stock C30 clutch has never had a problem with handling that power (until recently at 190k miles). I know the P2R clutch is an upgrade for the P1, plus it's cheap. So that's my reasoning for not going with something aftermarket and better.

      A few times, I have had issues engaging reverse or first after being parked on a hill. Blipping the throttle allows it to slide right in, so I've assumed it's just the gears not being lined up perfectly. This happens pretty frequently in my truck where it's much more prominent since the stick is connected right to the transmission.

      I'm not sure about how to adjust the shift cables on these cars, but it probably has to do with tweaking the horseshoe levers on the transmission itself.

    12. #535
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      Dude! The bottom one looks like a GTR! Nice!

      I always wonder what upgrading the car like this does to your insurance liability wise - you know, couple sprained neck claims from turning so many heads. Lol
      Haha, thanks!
      I actually had a guy follow me into a parking lot after making a U turn upon seeing my car. He said he thought it was an R34 coming up the street, until I passed by. Then he had no idea what this hatchback was, but he knew he wanted one.

      I guess I kind of see it, with the big grille openings. Not what I'm going for, but I'll never complain about being mistaken for an R34.

    13. #536
      Junior Member Okidiver's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Haha, thanks!
      I actually had a guy follow me into a parking lot after making a U turn upon seeing my car. He said he thought it was an R34 coming up the street, until I passed by. Then he had no idea what this hatchback was, but he knew he wanted one.

      I guess I kind of see it, with the big grille openings. Not what I'm going for, but I'll never complain about being mistaken for an R34.
      Yeah, your C30 is certainly the Godzihrra of the clan
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    14. #537
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      As you may have heard, a friend of mine now has the world's first AWD C30.

      Unlike the Polestar Concept, which thought it was a V50,
      Or other DIY attempts, which used standalone ECUs,
      His is a true C30 running an AWD setup (from an S40 donor) with no error codes.

      Details about this will be coming to C30Crew soon, but it was a beast to see in person.

      I'm shopping for a donor right now, as I plan to convert my C30 within the next year. If anyone finds a wrecked M66 AWD P1, let me know!

      https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh6obdmlZc9/

    15. #538
      Junior Member eight-bit's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      As you may have heard, a friend of mine now has the world's first AWD C30.

      Unlike the Polestar Concept, which thought it was a V50,
      Or other DIY attempts, which used standalone ECUs,
      His is a true C30 running an AWD setup (from an S40 donor) with no error codes.

      Details about this will be coming to C30Crew soon, but it was a beast to see in person.

      I'm shopping for a donor right now, as I plan to convert my C30 within the next year. If anyone finds a wrecked M66 AWD P1, let me know!

      https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh6obdmlZc9/
      I watched the video like 8 times. That is truly awesome.
      2009 Cosmic White Metallic C30 T5

    16. #539
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      As you may have heard, a friend of mine now has the world's first AWD C30.

      Unlike the Polestar Concept, which thought it was a V50,
      Or other DIY attempts, which used standalone ECUs,
      His is a true C30 running an AWD setup (from an S40 donor) with no error codes.

      Details about this will be coming to C30Crew soon, but it was a beast to see in person.

      I'm shopping for a donor right now, as I plan to convert my C30 within the next year. If anyone finds a wrecked M66 AWD P1, let me know!

      https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh6obdmlZc9/
      Oh Snap, I'd be very interested in details!

      I'm doing the same right now. Gas tank and rear end are in. Engine is out, waiting on Viva's SMF + P2R clutch kit to get here. I'm also doing a Auto > manual swap at the same time. I don't think I can keep any of my C30 ecm, dim, etc because I'm upgrading to heated seats and replacing the stereo for the 6cd changer at the same time, but I'm definitely interested in knowing how it was done with the original computers.

    17. #540
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      An upgraded torque mount makes a very nice improvement. If you go with the right mount, the added vibration will be very slight and almost welcome since it makes you feel more connected with the car. It will definitely help with the feel of power delivery and allow you to get off the line slightly quicker since the engine/transmission will not rock as much and better deliver the torque to the wheels.

      There are a bunch of mounts on the market and I've tried a handful of them. But hands down, the best mount I've used has been the Ford efocus mount. It gives a performance-level improvement with minimal vibration, a great lifespan, and the cheapest price.

      The Elevate mount was good on my S40, but the vibration was a little more harsh until it was fully broken in. I had the early version of the bushing, which ended up cracking pre-maturely. Supposedly this has since been fixed.
      The Elevate mount was also good on my C30, but I personally don't think it's worth the price tag.
      On the C30, I'm currently using a Whiteline bushing insert for the stock Mazda 3 mount. It has been satisfactory, but its nothing I'm excited over.
      On the V50, I have the Powerflex bushing insert for the stock Volvo mount. This has been surprisingly good, but not quite as firm as I was hoping. Though there's almost no added vibration from it.
      I also tried the Chinese knock off version of the efocus mount which was complete crap. It looks the same and deceptively enough, the name of the mount is Ford's part number. Make sure you're getting a genuine Ford part.
      My first genuine efocus mount did crack after a long while of hard driving, but that's to be expected with any mount and time. Ford's part# CM5Z-6068-A.

      Other subtle things to drastically improve the driving feel of your car will be an upgraded rear sway bar. Elevate makes a really nice one and there are a bunch of options for the Focus ST and the Mazda 3. I had the iPd bar, but it was barely any larger than stock and it really didn't make a huge improvement. The Elevate bar has been my preference on both the C30 and V50.

      A rear upper brace (also called a rear strut bar or "TheBelgian" bar) is one of the best upgrades I've done to the car. It completely eliminates the unpredictable body flex through corners and makes a much needed improvement to the hatchback. TheBelgian on C30Crew used to make these, but has since sold the design to Elevate. Elevate has a fixed version and a removable version. I had the original fixed Belgian bar, so I cannot comment on how the removable bar feels.
      Quick update : I've just installed a new engine torque mount for my c30. It's really better. I can feel the improvement on hard accelerations and shifting. Thanks a lot! Next step would be a kpax exhaust...
      Have a nice day

    18. #541
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      Looking for some wheel advice from a seasoned C30 driver. 18 vs. 19"....how bad of an idea are 19"s on New England roads. I feel like I'm answering this question myself. Currently on 205/50/17, lowered 1.5" with Koni/Eibach. Are my teeth going to fall out with a 35 tire? I've never driven a car with that low of an aspect ratio, figured you likely have and wanted some feedback.

      Thanks.
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    19. #542
      Member jschinito's Avatar
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      45 profile is great for pot holed streets here in LA. i’m going back to 40 for performance and looks but i’m sure will be back to 45 again.

      wouldn’t do 30 unless you have perfect asphalt


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    20. #543
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      The "35" is a ratio and is going to be dependent upon what your width is. I ran a 245/35 18 and it wasn't too bad. Though our roads are very smooth here.

      Personally, I think 19" wheels are overkill. They can look great, but they're heavy, they make your brakes look tiny, and you can't run a tire with a sufficient sidewall. Insufficient side wall means a harsher ride, more likely to crack/bend a wheel when you hit a pothole, and a loss in cornering performance. It has been debated that 17" wheels are actually the optimal setup for these cars; you can run tires that will have proper flex through the corners, the ride will be fairly decent, and your overall wheel/tire weight may be less. This is part of why Volvo sold the 250 Polestar Luxury Editions with 17s, even though all their R-design counterparts had 18s.

      I've driven a few P1 Volvos with 19s (on springs and coilovers) and the ride was significantly more harsh than my car on 235/40 18s.

      I assume you have a separate set of winter wheels in Connecticut? If you're just going for summer show (and don't mind your brakes looking small) 19s aren't bad. But if you're going for a balance of style and performance, stick with 18s.

      Maybe you can find a local P1 owner with 19s who would be willing to take you for a ride. Then you can judge for yourself if it will be too jarring for you.

    21. #544

    22. #545
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      The "35" is a ratio and is going to be dependent upon what your width is. I ran a 245/35 18 and it wasn't too bad. Though our roads are very smooth here.

      Personally, I think 19" wheels are overkill. They can look great, but they're heavy, they make your brakes look tiny, and you can't run a tire with a sufficient sidewall. Insufficient side wall means a harsher ride, more likely to crack/bend a wheel when you hit a pothole, and a loss in cornering performance. It has been debated that 17" wheels are actually the optimal setup for these cars; you can run tires that will have proper flex through the corners, the ride will be fairly decent, and your overall wheel/tire weight may be less. This is part of why Volvo sold the 250 Polestar Luxury Editions with 17s, even though all their R-design counterparts had 18s.

      I've driven a few P1 Volvos with 19s (on springs and coilovers) and the ride was significantly more harsh than my car on 235/40 18s.

      I assume you have a separate set of winter wheels in Connecticut? If you're just going for summer show (and don't mind your brakes looking small) 19s aren't bad. But if you're going for a balance of style and performance, stick with 18s.

      Maybe you can find a local P1 owner with 19s who would be willing to take you for a ride. Then you can judge for yourself if it will be too jarring for you.
      My stock 17" Serapis will become my winter wheels. Whatever I end up going with will be strictly summer. I found a good deal on a used set of Heicos in 19x8, 235x35/19. I think I may pass on them though, as the 18 would get me the performance/appearance that I'm after without the risk of wrecking tires/rims.

      Thanks for your input.
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    23. #546

    24. #547
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      Because Racecar?

    25. #548
      Junior Member Okidiver's Avatar
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      Do you always have a box of doughnuts ready when LEO is about ?
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    26. #549
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Momo Champion wheel installed, with an NRG quick release hub.



      The Momo wheel is 350mm, which is a tad smaller than stock. This is something I really prefer, as the VW I used to drive had a smaller wheel and I loved it.



      No airbag, but my car hasn't had any functioning airbags for a while now. It's actually quite practical and track safe with the seat and harness setup. But to prevent any airbag codes, a 2ohm 1/4watt resistor is wired in line.



      I moved the cruise control buttons to the side of the column. Still easily accessible for the few times I actually use it.



      Sorry for not having a detailed write-up. It's a pretty straight forward process and I already have a video on stock wheel removal. Truth be told, if you need a step by step guide for a wheel install, then you probably shouldn't be taking the steering wheel off to begin with.

    27. #550
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      In collaboration with Elevate, I test fitted their new aluminum control knob rings in my cars. These are definitely a high quality product and a great solution to covering up worn control knobs.


    28. #551
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Nothing fancy, just a quick little afternoon recording. Though, it makes me want to get out there and do some storyboarded 60 second car films.


    29. #552
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Some of the better parts from this car will be replacing parts on my C30.


    30. #553

    31. #554
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      I swapped over the Do88 intercooler from my parts car to replace my Elevate intercooler.
      I'm really impressed with the build quality and size of the Do88. It is the absolute biggest you could probably go without cutting anything. The downfall is the added weight.
      Installation was a little frustrating because the fitment is so tight. The Elevate intercooler is much easier to install, especially since it makes use of the factory lower mounting tabs.

      In our hot GA summer, I'm not noticing any improvements with cooling, though I'm sure there is some. I will say, I never experienced any heat soak with the Elevate intercoolers on my fully modded K04 S40, C30, or V50, even after hard runs of the dragon in the summer.

      I do notice a very slight improvement in overall power delivery, similar to what I experienced when upgrading the intercooler hardpipe. The Do88 intercooler has more curved end tanks and it feels like it was designed for a smoother air flow going through it.

      If you already have an upgraded intercooler, especially the Elevate one, I would not justify the cost for the very slight improvement that the Do88 offers.
      Buying new, I would definitely choose the Do88 first. But if you can score a good deal, I'd still say any upgrade is going to be better than stock.

    32. #555
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      After driving a bit more today, I'm actually kind of torn between the two...

      Both intercoolers sufficiently cool the air and I'm not measuring any noticeable temp differences. For a significantly lower air temp, you're going to need a much bigger intercooler and probably cut away part of the bumper.

      Do88 feels like it flows better, but Elevate is lighter weight and that's weight out at the front tip of the car. (I'm pretty sensitive to weight, I noticed a difference after relocating the battery and I felt the steering difference after upgrading to 320mm brakes)

      The Do88 might have a larger front surface, but you're still limited by the front bumper opening.

      The Do88 sits right up against the radiator, while the Elevate one leaves some room. This could prevent the hot air from easily escaping and may hinder the Do88's cooling ability over long periods of time.

      The Do88's larger volume is beneficial for cooling more air at once, but that's also more space for the boosted air to fill before reaching the throttle.
      This also brings to question the impact this has on the CBV. Boost pressure, piping sizes, and total volume all matter when choosing the right spring for a traditional blowoff valve because the larger volume is holding more pressurized air. This may only be a negligible difference on this scale, but I don't know all the science behind it. Maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in.

      A while back, I stuck the stock intercooler on my tuned car and the significantly smaller volume was (slightly) noticeable on the low end. Bigger is better for cooling, but if I was going for quarter mile times, I'd probably run the stock intercooler.

      Just some observations from my unbiased opinion, since I did not choose to purchase either one of these. The car came with an Elevate intercooler and the Do88 was "free."
      Based on retail price, I would still probably choose the Do88. But now that I have personally tried both, I think each intercooler has it's own advantages and disadvantages.

      It's about finding that "balance" for what you need.

    33. #556
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      On Friday the 13th, shortly after passing 194k miles, I blew the head gasket and may have cracked the cylinder head during some high revving mountain runs. No cooling issues and the car still idles/revs fine. Just lots of white smoke from the exhaust and there's coolant in the oil.
      I think the years of abuse and high mileage finally caught up to her. I'm not mad, I expected it sooner or later.

      The car will be parked for a while since other projects take precedence.

      The plan is to rebuild, rather than swap engines with the parts car, because either way I'd be swapping my cams over and pulling the head seems much easier than swapping the engine. I'd rather leave the spare engine in tact for the time being.

      During the rebuild, I'll be adding the Elevate ported lower intake manifold and the much newer/cleaner injectors from the parts car.

      I'm also upgrading the K04 with the 7+7 billet compressor wheel from Viva. I don't expect to see a huge performance increase with this, but it should flow better, let the turbo spool up quicker, and I might as well replace it while the exhaust manifold is off.

      It's not the full hybrid CHRA because I'm keeping the stock bearings, but I really don't foresee this being an issue with how well the stock turbo can take a beating. It will technically still be a hybrid turbo, even though it's retaining the stock 44.92mm inducer and 56.08mm exducer diameters.

      I have no desire to deal with the K16 costs and tuning issues. I'm just looking for optimal results with what I have.

      Truth be told, I spent all week debating between rebuilding or moving on. I've been bored with this car for a while and driving it at 100% still leaves something to be desired. An AWD swap remains on the radar, but there's better cars for the roads I drive and moving on is the only way I'll improve as a driver.
      Either way, a running car will sell for more than a broken car. She's going to be fixed and she's going to be upgraded, hopefully keeping me interested for a little bit longer.

    34. #557
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Sometimes I feel like I'm just talking to myself in this thread.

      A broken car can still get new parts!

      Swapped out the Volvo 320s for the Elevate Wilwood 6 piston 320s. I moved the car in the driveway after bleeding them, but won't be able to comment on performance until I get the car drivable again.

      I will say that the Wilwood caliper and bracket weigh just under 6lbs, while the Volvo 320 caliper and bracket exceeded my 12lb kitchen scale. So that is a significant weight savings.


    35. #558
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      You are talking to yourself, but many of us appreciate. If only you had your own dyno to give us the intel on what component provides what power! I went with the XC60 FMIC, Mototec dp, and was thinking about the hybrid, but I'm starting to feel diminishing returns with P*. I'm hoping if I drop a stage 2+ tune in, I'll grab another 25 hp at the engine, but it sounds like a stretch. 300/300 works for me.

      I like the idea of more braking power and 12 pounds less weight up front, too!
      Last edited by dbphillips; 07-22-2018 at 12:52 AM.
      2009 Hilton Stage 2 C70 M66 Passion Red/Graphite/Aluminum - Quaife LSD installed! Has anyone else noticed gear whir in 3rd and 4th? Or a "clunk" from the SPEC SMF and R clutch (or front LCA poly bushings?) at startup?
      2011 XC60 3.2L Barents Blue/Anthracite/Aluminum - rings/pistons at 35k, new engine at 50k, seems no oil loss yet at 100k.

    36. #559
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by dbphillips View Post
      You are talking to yourself, but many of us appreciate. If only you had your own dyno to give us the intel on what component provides what power! I went with the XC60 FMIC, Mototec dp, and was thinking about the hybrid, but I'm starting to feel diminishing returns with P*. I'm hoping if I drop a stage 2+ tune in, I'll grab another 25 hp at the engine, but it sounds like a stretch. 300/300 works for me.

      I like the idea of more braking power and 12 pounds less weight up front, too!
      Yeah... Just too much time and money to bother putting it on a dyno after each individual part. Especially when I'm "done" with this car and don't care to spend more on it.
      Without a remap, I've heard people gaining 5-10whp with the turbine wheel upgrade. With a tune, the ST225 Focus guys are seeing 20-30whp, but my expectations are pretty low for this.

      A well written aftermarket tune will definitely show better results than what you're getting with Polestar. P* adapts pretty well to upgraded parts, but it's still only designed to optimize the stock parts. Especially with the FMIC and DP, you should be holding boost around 16-18psi. The few bolt-on build P* tuned cars that I have driven were noticeably slower, you could tell they had a lot of untapped potential.

    37. #560
      Junior Member Okidiver's Avatar
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      Jan 2008
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      Luke, this is not the car you will sell just yet...200k is just around the bend...
      Rapid Rick...I roll
      2008 C30 Matt Pearl Gold OSD-customized w/Elevate tune
      2015 V60 Seashell Metallic w/Platinum, BLIS, wood

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